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I'm kind of in the early planning stages for a Tapped Horn using a 10 subwoofer and I'm hoping the folks here can help me with some advice about construction of the box:
The baffle will be 27.6 cm (10.87) across and the driver's cutout diameter is 23.5cm (9.25); this will leave 2.05cm (0.8) baffle on each side of the cut. Is that going to be enough material or is it a problem? The outside diameter of the driver mounting flange is 26.1cm and that leaves .75cm (0.29) overall clearance on each side.
The horn height at S3 is 17.79cm and (7) and the driver height is 15.3cm (6) so clearance here is about 2.49cm (1). At the closest point the clearance is 1.96cm (0.77). Is that cutting it too close?
The compression ratio is 4.27:1, (S2 = 85cm^2 Sd = 363cm^2) I've read in the forum that people are reluctant to go above 4:1. This is a paper cone driver...
Instead of bracing I'm considering routing a 3/4 x 1/8 groove in the longer boards and using a non-elastic epoxy to glue up 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 steel T bar most of the length of the long dimension for the boards that need it. This should create a resonance node and stiffen the board (steel has a much higher elasticity modulus than plywood and T bar is very stiff by virtue of its shape). Sound like a not so great idea?
Thanks for any and all help.
The baffle will be 27.6 cm (10.87) across and the driver's cutout diameter is 23.5cm (9.25); this will leave 2.05cm (0.8) baffle on each side of the cut. Is that going to be enough material or is it a problem? The outside diameter of the driver mounting flange is 26.1cm and that leaves .75cm (0.29) overall clearance on each side.
The horn height at S3 is 17.79cm and (7) and the driver height is 15.3cm (6) so clearance here is about 2.49cm (1). At the closest point the clearance is 1.96cm (0.77). Is that cutting it too close?
The compression ratio is 4.27:1, (S2 = 85cm^2 Sd = 363cm^2) I've read in the forum that people are reluctant to go above 4:1. This is a paper cone driver...
Instead of bracing I'm considering routing a 3/4 x 1/8 groove in the longer boards and using a non-elastic epoxy to glue up 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 steel T bar most of the length of the long dimension for the boards that need it. This should create a resonance node and stiffen the board (steel has a much higher elasticity modulus than plywood and T bar is very stiff by virtue of its shape). Sound like a not so great idea?

Thanks for any and all help.