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I purposely blew the second picture out so you can see it, but I did exactly 4 feet out from the screen plus the back wall. Lots of strategic patches on shiny speaker parts, the edge of my computer monitor on the right, etc. It's a true multi-purpose room (that's actually my office space to the right), but I can get it extremely dark and while it would be nice to have a full cave, or may even go 8 feet out, it's pretty immersive. It was also way more of a chore than I thought (ceiling was brutal), with all the baseboard, sump pit on the left, water valve shutoff cabinet above that, etc. Now that I'm out 4 feet, the rest would be a lot easier...I just ran out of desire and and adhesive velvet isn't cheap.

I used the McMaster-Carr adhesive velvet which is massively absorbent, to the point it's difficult to see without the lights way up.
Wow that looks really much better than a normal viewing area, thanks for the pics. they show the benefit of even blacking out that much of the room. Could you kindly maybe show an example of how the image/movie looks when you turn of all the lights in the room (just a normal movie shot maybe a dark scene or something? And also another request if possible, how the image looks in a very bright scene, does the black velvet do enough to absorb any brightness, and also is 4 feet enough to stop any brightness, because i've seen many videos of normal rooms where bright movie scenes seem to reflect way more than 4 feet.

Lastly, you mentioned you used adhesive, isn't that going to be a very big job if someone wanted to remove the blacking out later on?
Probably would have to paint the ceiling all over again

Thanks
 

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I purposely blew the second picture out so you can see it, but I did exactly 4 feet out from the screen plus the back wall. Lots of strategic patches on shiny speaker parts, the edge of my computer monitor on the right, etc. It's a true multi-purpose room (that's actually my office space to the right), but I can get it extremely dark and while it would be nice to have a full cave, or may even go 8 feet out, it's pretty immersive. It was also way more of a chore than I thought (ceiling was brutal), with all the baseboard, sump pit on the left, water valve shutoff cabinet above that, etc. Now that I'm out 4 feet, the rest would be a lot easier...I just ran out of desire and and adhesive velvet isn't cheap.

I used the McMaster-Carr adhesive velvet which is massively absorbent, to the point it's difficult to see without the lights way up.
Wow that looks great (nice lines too) and made I real big difference in PQ and immersion I'd bet. I agree, putting it up on the ceiling can be pretty tough (I think it was the hardest on my neck when I did mine), and was time consuming. I did mine with staples though. If it weren't for using thumb pins first to get it tacked up, straight, and tight before the staples, it would have been almost impossible (at least by myself).

Anyway, fantastic job!!
 

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So here comes the dumb question, and I do ask it a good bit tongue in cheek; what happens if you shine the light on it indefinitely in the same spot?

If all it does is absorb the light completely, when does it become full?

We wouldn't want it to blow up from to much absorption. ;)
Let's say the flashlight puts out 500 lumens per square foot per 1 foot distance. That is all the light that hits the material. It is not like the light puts out 500 and then another 500 and another 500, so that it completely overloads the material. The light only puts out 500 lumens. If the material can absorb only 400 lumens per square foot, then the remaining 100 lumens is not absorbed. That means 100 lumens is reflected back into the room.
 

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That is how I started now I spend an hour looking for my remote because the room is all velvet. Once you start every surface that shines will eventually bug you. :D

On that note does anyone have a recommendation for glow in the dark tape?
I put my remote in the charge base every time. That way, I know exactly where to reach. :)
Just get in a habit of placing the remote in the exact same spot, every time you set it down.

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Now if you have a wife and kids that also use the room, then good luck finding the remote. I would attach one of those locator pucks to the remote. :D
 

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I put my remote in the charge base every time. That way, I know exactly where to reach. :)
Just get in a habit of placing the remote in the exact same spot, every time you set it down.

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Now if you have a wife and kids that also use the room, then good luck finding the remote. I would attach one of those locator pucks to the remote. :D
I have remotes stored in a cabinet for when I need them but most of the time I use my tablet which is attached to a swivel arm on my couch so it cant get lost, combine that with audio commands for when I am feeling super lazy has been a pretty good solution for me. Oh except for the Roku remote that does get used a lot, just easier navigating with that then with the App and if I do misplace it, I can press the locate button on the Roku and it will start making noise so that is such a handy feature lol.
 
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Decided to go to hobby lobby today on a whim and see how much triple black velvet that had. To my surprise it was on sale for $3.00 a yard. I bought all they had, which only turned out to be 17 yards. Been calling every hobby lobby within 100 miles of me. Everyone seems to have 5yds or less and they can only order 15yrds at a time. Looks like I just got lucky!
 

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I purposely blew the second picture out so you can see it, but I did exactly 4 feet out from the screen plus the back wall. Lots of strategic patches on shiny speaker parts, the edge of my computer monitor on the right, etc. It's a true multi-purpose room (that's actually my office space to the right), but I can get it extremely dark and while it would be nice to have a full cave, or may even go 8 feet out, it's pretty immersive. It was also way more of a chore than I thought (ceiling was brutal), with all the baseboard, sump pit on the left, water valve shutoff cabinet above that, etc. Now that I'm out 4 feet, the rest would be a lot easier...I just ran out of desire and and adhesive velvet isn't cheap.

I used the McMaster-Carr adhesive velvet which is massively absorbent, to the point it's difficult to see without the lights way up.
So that velvet is actually just stuck to the drywall? No staples or anything? Very clean look!
 

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Guys, how much of a difference is there between lining my walls with black speaker grill fabric (so I can put acoustic panels behind it) vs black velvet for picture quality?

Do most people put the acoustic panels outside of the velvet in certain areas?
 

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Guys, how much of a difference is there between lining my walls with black speaker grill fabric (so I can put acoustic panels behind it) vs black velvet for picture quality?

Do most people put the acoustic panels outside of the velvet in certain areas?
I have some panels behind heavy commercial velvet curtains.
 

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Guys, how much of a difference is there between lining my walls with black speaker grill fabric (so I can put acoustic panels behind it) vs black velvet for picture quality?

Do most people put the acoustic panels outside of the velvet in certain areas?
If you want to go darker and use acoustic panels you should look at the GOM 701 black fabric to cover it with. Those are acoustic transparent. While velvet has no problem with bass freq, it could reflect mid/high frequencies somewhat. If its just for looks and want to go darker, velvet is fine....but if you actually have broadband absorption or diffusion panels, I would just use GOM 701 fabric instead.
 

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I experimented with different types of application of the black velvet and other stuff.

I found the simplest way (if you don't want to stick or glue) is to use cardboard.
Originally I tried the thicker white foamboard, but it was too difficult to tack (tacks were not long enough).

Finally, I settled for just using these cardboard pieces from Walmart, they come in different sizes, but bang for buck this size was cheapest...



I then stapled the black materials to the cardboard and tacked the pieces to the wall with thumb tacks.
Finally, to hide the tacks, I used a hole puncher to cut holes out of the extra material, then simply glued it over the tack.

It does create a seam, but it looks ok...
This is Oly Jet Black, I also used Triple Black Velvet for front-half.
The Oly stuff looks darker then below, but the camera flash made it appear lighter.


Another option is to tack the material directly to the wall, but it's more difficult to get it looking right.
Not sure what the 'best way' really is aesthetically (probably gluing), just showing you the easiest way.
 

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I have a black painted osb room with cathedral ceilings. The room is lined with 16oz 50% full (ifr) velour curtains. The carpet is a dark gray. The screen is a 200" unity gain screen. During bright scenes the room lights up. Most of the reflected light seems to come from the ceiling area.

I'd like to hang 4'x8' sound absorber panels above and to the side (cathedral ceiling) of my screen. I'd like them to absorb as much light as possible. Mid-high frequency is already well controlled by the curtains. I'm also very cheap so anything over $8/yd is out of the question. The Syfabrics triple black seems just the ticket other than the 44" width. The best i have found is bulk 8oz (IFR) Duvetyne for about $6/yd. I will likely use this for most of the sound absorbers placed elsewhere in the room. I'd like the first few to be particularly good at absorbing light reflections. Is there anything comparable to the Syfabrics material at a relatively low price point?

Any suggestions of alternate fabrics or comparisons of the syfabrics to duvetyne appreciated.
 

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Not sure what the 'best way' really is aesthetically (probably gluing), just showing you the easiest way.
When you mention gluing, are you referring to gluing the material directly to the drywall surface? If I wanted to go that route, what would be the right adhesive to use? I'm leaning towards Protostar or McMaster's products bc they're self adhesive, but the 400 sq ft I want covered would cost me $1K in material alone w either of those options, so I'm curious how best adhere the triple black/Sy directly to painted drywall (w knockdown texture).
 

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I used 1/4" plywood wrapped in velvet for my ceiling,walls and floor. I really need a build thread.lol





this panel is 12ft with a layer of carpet underlay for sound.
 

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When you mention gluing, are you referring to gluing the material directly to the drywall surface? If I wanted to go that route, what would be the right adhesive to use? I'm leaning towards Protostar or McMaster's products bc they're self adhesive, but the 400 sq ft I want covered would cost me $1K in material alone w either of those options, so I'm curious how best adhere the triple black/Sy directly to painted drywall (w knockdown texture).
I have no idea, my guess is using some type of wallpaper adhesive. Personally, I'd probably try stapling it first directly using black staples. That would be a lot cleaner.
You can also tack it directly to the wall.

I used cardboard with tacks because I did not want a permanent install as I will probably be moving again eventually in less than 5 years, did not feel like cleaning up the mess later.
 

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4x8 sheets of sound board are like 10 bucks and the morex 2.50 a yard velvet would cut costs significantly and still do a excellent job.

As always I would order 3 yards first or maybe 6 yards to see if you like it and do 2 , 4x8 panels with it....or 4x4 or whatever size is easiest to work with for you
 
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