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Since each of them come in two pieces, I would imagine they are easier to store. I was just looking in my theater and it looks like between the seats and back bar would store them safely.

My HT is best when I'm home alone. The foot stomps from above from my kids, the delivered stink eye I get when listening to music, the dog whining to come in or leave, it's always something. This is with the Soundproofing Company's 6 out of 10 ceiling solution.

I wish my HT was under a part of the house we don't use much--like the dining and living rooms. Below the family room has proven to be "no bueno".
 

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Discussion Starter #2,642
Since each of them come in two pieces, I would imagine they are easier to store. I was just looking in my theater and it looks like between the seats and back bar would store them safely.

My HT is best when I'm home alone. The foot stomps from above from my kids, the delivered stink eye I get when listening to music, the dog whining to come in or leave, it's always something. This is with the Soundproofing Company's 6 out of 10 ceiling solution.

I wish my HT was under a part of the house we don't use much--like the dining and living rooms. Below the family room has proven to be "no bueno".
I don't have the problem with the sounds, I don't hear anything in there other than what is in there thank god, but the dogs will paw at the door if I leave it closed, which I can hear. That's with the thick ceiling insulation + clips/channel + double drywall + gg.

As far as the storage, yes, each panel is smaller, but there are technically twice as many panels. I could put them behind the back row of seats and problem solved, but then getting them is a big PITA. The big downside of using horizontal panels vs vertical panels is that you tend to use them more. I really didn't bother most of the time with the vertical panels because TV broadcasts look nothing close to as good as a Blu-ray does. Only for some football games and things like game of thrones ever got the panel treatment. Now though, I put them on any time I watch a letterbox film, and since I don't zoom, the HTPC uses the whole screen, so I need to switch the panels often. I think a lot of people don't consider that when they make the change to a 16:9 screen with panels. It is more work.
 

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I have a scope Seymour but only 100" wide. It's not that it isn't wide enough, honestly. It's not tall enough. Scope material is great for my room since it's not quite as big as your's but 16:9 stuff is definitely lacking. I watch more sports and HBO than movies so I've been itching for that IMAX feel also.
How far back are you sitting from the screen?

Gary
 

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How far back are you sitting from the screen?

Gary
11 or 12 feet. The problem is, I hung my projector 12 from the screen. Maybe 12' 2" max. Can't get much wider at this point. I could take down the projector and move it back a foot or so, but that would involve tearing out crown, ripping down my fabric panel on the ceiling, moving the projector back, rebuild the fabric panel, redo crown moulding. I don't know if I'm quite ready for all that.

Or maybe I am. It actually sounds fun after I typed it all out. Maybe I can go with a 10 foot wide scope screen. Crap. I really don't know what I wanna do.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,645 (Edited)
So here is my little seat-booster project. Nothing really exiting I know.

First I built two frames. 31" Deep x 63.25" wide each. The photo angle makes the wood look warped but it isn't.



Then I had to put the top on each. I had some 3/4" plywood cut at 31" intervals to save me some time at the store. After the first piece fit on, I needed to measure for the remainder. So flipped it, marked it with a pen, flipped it back... ready to cut with a circle saw!

 

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Discussion Starter #2,646 (Edited)
From there just follow the line... man battery power sucks sometimes! The line looks off but only because it's rotated so it overhangs the edge. Once it is cut, then I screwed the pieces to the frame.

Wow! A single riser!


Because I like to build things, well, I did it again. Now there is two! I can't believe the chairs are only 31" deep. I could have made these platforms larger to make a step in front of the seats but since it is only a few inches, it wasn't worth it.

 

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Discussion Starter #2,647 (Edited)
So I ordered my "roll of vinyl" which finally showed up a couple of days ago. The reviews from amazon weren't kidding, it really still smelled like the stain when it came out of the tube. After it aired out for a day that was much better though. I trimmed the piece to just fit over the entire outside and then pulled it tight and stapled it. It's about 99% tight, but it will be covered with chairs anyway. Still, I thought it looked pretty good...

... wait... this feels like 2001...

 

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Discussion Starter #2,650
Looks really good. I don't see any seems so it must be wrapped up well.
There are seams on the corners, but hard to see in the photo. If you looked you would notice them up close but in a dim room below a set of chairs, not so much! I may have to bolt the chairs to these in the end but we'll see.
 

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11 or 12 feet. The problem is, I hung my projector 12 from the screen. Maybe 12' 2" max. Can't get much wider at this point. I could take down the projector and move it back a foot or so, but that would involve tearing out crown, ripping down my fabric panel on the ceiling, moving the projector back, rebuild the fabric panel, redo crown moulding. I don't know if I'm quite ready for all that.

Or maybe I am. It actually sounds fun after I typed it all out. Maybe I can go with a 10 foot wide scope screen. Crap. I really don't know what I wanna do.
Could be you'r sitting too far back for that size screen and that's why 16:9 looks too small. A bigger/wider 2.35 screen would help, or easier still you could move your seats forward around 3 or 4 feet.

THXs recommended back row is 3.68 x the image height. You're currently sitting at around 3.3 so nearer the back row than the prime seats (which is 2.4 x IH).

Gary
 

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Could be you'r sitting too far back for that size screen and that's why 16:9 looks too small. A bigger/wider 2.35 screen would help, or easier still you could move your seats forward around 3 or 4 feet.

THXs recommended back row is 3.68 x the image height. You're currently sitting at around 3.3 so nearer the back row than the prime seats (which is 2.4 x IH).

Gary
Agreed, JVoth has too small of a screen for the seating distance, or too far of a seating distance for the screen.

We put in a 138" (diagonal) 16:9 screen and seated eyeball distance is at 12' and it is great. My wife, who was worried about the screen being too big loved it as soon as we watched our first movie.

JVoth, your 16:9 material on that scope screen is similar to a screen size around 80" diagonal 16:9, which is really not very large at a 12 foot viewing distance.

I'm all for ripping it all out and fixing the projector placement to allow for a larger image, but the "free" temporary fix is what Gary points out, and that is to move the seats forward to see what you think of that.
 

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If you move the seats forward to the point where 16:9 looks as big as you'd want it, and going any larger (for the height) would become uncomfortable, you can then work out the ideal the seating distance ratio for yourself.

Just divide the screen height into the seating distance to get the ratio, and then if you go for a bigger screen you just make sure you keep the same seating distance ratio.

Gary.
 

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So I ordered my "roll of vinyl" which finally showed up a couple of days ago. The reviews from amazon weren't kidding, it really still smelled like the stain when it came out of the tube. After it aired out for a day that was much better though. I trimmed the piece to just fit over the entire outside and then pulled it tight and stapled it. It's about 99% tight, but it will be covered with chairs anyway. Still, I thought it looked pretty good...

... wait... this feels like 2001...


I must say, that is undoubtedly one sexy box. I'll be using a booster as well--it'll be about 2.5 inches. Once you get the booster in place, please let us know if it alters the way you get in your seats at all. I can't envision it would, but ya never know.

I've been thinking where I'd store my masking panels as well...Have you thought about putting your subs on pedestals to get them above the top masking line, and replacing the AT masking with velvet masking? If you did velvet, you wouldn't notice the panels when you propped them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,655
I must say, that is undoubtedly one sexy box. I'll be using a booster as well--it'll be about 2.5 inches. Once you get the booster in place, please let us know if it alters the way you get in your seats at all. I can't envision it would, but ya never know.

I've been thinking where I'd store my masking panels as well...Have you thought about putting your subs on pedestals to get them above the top masking line, and replacing the AT masking with velvet masking? If you did velvet, you wouldn't notice the panels when you propped them up.
No I never even considered that. Of course they could be wrapped completely in a darker AT material. I think that is wasted money though, since it really is only to make them look better while leaning against a wall. I'd rather put hinges on my side panels if I'm going to do something. I still need to fix the door also to add a drop-down seal. Maybe I'll find some weekend where BIG is free and steal him for some work.
 

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No I never even considered that. Of course they could be wrapped completely in a darker AT material. I think that is wasted money though, since it really is only to make them look better while leaning against a wall. I'd rather put hinges on my side panels if I'm going to do something. I still need to fix the door also to add a drop-down seal. Maybe I'll find some weekend where BIG is free and steal him for some work.
Hinges are a great idea. If you went that route with some sort of pocket insertion, That would be really slick. How do you think you would approach that? Sounds very complex to a non-expert like myself, but you've got the skill to make it happen.
 

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Hinges are a great idea. If you went that route with some sort of pocket insertion, That would be really slick. How do you think you would approach that? Sounds very complex to a non-expert like myself, but you've got the skill to make it happen.
The only complicated part is making sure it has the vertical room to swing open. My side panels used to be friction fit, but with the new screen there is a small gap between the panel and the wall, which I can reach my fingers into. I could also add a handle of course. Basically a Hinge could be placed onto the goalpost vertical beam and then to the panel, and then it could swing outwards similar to a cabinet door. I'd just have to change the back blocking to use magnets to remain closed vs the velcro. As far as the veritcal room, since it sort of sat at the end of the carpet, it has slightly more vertical space at rest than an inch or so out from the screen wall due to the carpet padding. So it might need to be shortened a half of an inch so that it could swing outwards on a hinge without rubbing on the stage carpet. I could probably figure it out myself but would prefer help. As for pockets, that would be the easy part. the bottom of the panels just needs a place to rest on the back and then maybe a small strap higher up to keep it from falling over. Then panel would swing shut and you would never see it. I wouldn't want to just rest them against the wall inside because there is the bare oc703 bass traps, and that yellow insulation tends to stick to things. It's a little bit of extra work from the simple friction fit design but in the end it really wouldn't be that much work.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,659 (Edited)
Then I moved the chairs out of the way, put the platforms down, and put the chairs on top of them. Instant 3" height boost! Since these chairs are so "cushy", sitting straight down at this new height doesn't get your butt to the back of the chair, so you have to scoot back after. I have not yet anchored them to the platforms, but I might have to now.





 
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