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Hi all, got a question that I hope people can help with. I have an older sound system where the only digital input is via TOSLINK (optical) that can only decode Dolby Digital (not plus) and DTS. Would it be possible to pass digital audio out of this Chromecast (possibly downmixing audio like DD+, DTS-HD, Atoms) and what's the best way to go about it?
It does, but it only outputs 2 channels via the TOSLINK output. I was wondering if it would be possible to directly output the HD audio to my AVR, possibly even down-mixing DD+ to DD. What would be a good device for it? I see some on Amazon but I'd appreciate if people had their experience.
The GCCWGTV does not have a Dolby decoder, it wont transcode DD+ to DD (which then has to be converted from HDMI to Optical for your scenario).

If you want access to all apps 5.1 output (especially those using DD+) you'd need an HDMI>Optical extractor that also transcode/converts DD+ to DD (includes a Dolby decoder), which are more expensive and harder to find: e.g. @ $80 - HDMI 2.0 Audio Extractor Converter with Downmix [JTECH-EXD2] - J-Tech Digital

In terms of 4K/HDR streamers that have Dolby decoders (and transcode DD+ to DD), the FS4K (and any other more recent non-Lite Fire TV model), the TS4K, the Roku Ultra 2020, the Shield/Shield Pro, and the ATV4K all fit the bill, so you wouldnt need a more expensive extractor/decoder/converter (such as the one above)., but just an extractor/converter:
@ $50 J-Tech Digital 4K60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor/Converter SPDIF/3.5MM
@ $35 HDMI Audio Extractor [email protected] - J-Tech Digital
(The difference being one supports 4K60 and the other 4K30 passthrough, and you can find each for $10-15 cheaper on Amazon).

The cheapest alternative streamer with Dolby decoding would be the FS4K @ $40 (ignore the TS4K - its Dolby decoder is broken), the most expensive would be the Shield Pro/ATV4K @ $180-200.

Considering the GCCWGTV+Extractor/decoder/converter = $130, whereas the FS4K+Exctractor/converter = $75, that might make a difference in terms of purchase decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #862 ·
The cheapest alternative streamer with Dolby decoding would be the FS4K @ $40 (ignore the TS4K - its Dolby decoder is broken), the most expensive would be the Shield Pro/ATV4K @ $180-200.

Considering the GCCWGTV+Extractor/decoder/converter = $130, whereas the FS4K+Exctractor/converter = $75, that might make a difference in terms of purchase decisions.
Hey, thanks for the very detailed reply. Since I had already gotten the GCCWGTV, the comparison becomes Fire Stick 4K + extractor/converter for $75 vs. $80 for a extractor/decoder/converter. The extensibility of GCCWGTV (with a USB hub) and ability to run Kodi smoothly makes getting the $80 decoder the sensible choice for me.
 

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I have a Chromecast Google TV connected by Bluetooth to an older Sony CT790 soundbar. The Sony is set up to never go on standby.

The problem is that Google TV disconnects BT when placed on standby and then it doesn't automatically reconnect to the soundbar. I have to go to the Google TV settings/Remotes and reconnect to the soundbar manually to get it working after starting up.

Anyone with any ideas on how to force the Google TV to reconnect to the last BT device? I am determined to use a single remote and will stick with the Google TV remote.
 

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I have a Chromecast Google TV connected by Bluetooth to an older Sony CT790 soundbar. The Sony is set up to never go on standby.

The problem is that Google TV disconnects BT when placed on standby and then it doesn't automatically reconnect to the soundbar. I have to go to the Google TV settings/Remotes and reconnect to the soundbar manually to get it working after starting up.

Anyone with any ideas on how to force the Google TV to reconnect to the last BT device? I am determined to use a single remote and will stick with the Google TV remote.
Best option would be a physical connection; Bluetooth may limit your audio quality and reduce reliability. If you can't use the soundbar's HDMI port, a USB-C hub or HDMI switch with audio extraction may be an option? Or, does ARC reliably work between TV and soundbar? I know ARC wasn't a possibility with my TV and soundbar; my devices aren't compatible.

I know of no way to force this with Bluetooth. But you can get to settings quicker with voice command or long press home button and navigate to settings.

I'm using an HDMI switch with audio extraction via HDMI for audio for my older soundbar that has no HDR passthrough. But one last thought on your wireless Bluetooth connection, last device connected should try to auto connect if it sees the device when power cycled.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Anyone else notice that Netflix 4K and Disney+ 4K is no longer working? On Disney plus, for example falcon and the Winter soldier is advertised as HDR 10 but it doesn't say 4k. My Samsung Disney Plus app States hdr10 and 4K.

For netflix, for example the blacklist, it just States hd. Although my Samsung TV app stays 4K.

-T
 

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Anyone else finding the built-in storage awfully limiting? Maybe I have too many streaming services, but yikes. It gets to the point where my apps cannot update and I have to start deleting stuff. Yeah, I know about using a USB-C hub and all that, but that's not what I want to do with a bedroom/office streaming dongle.

I much prefer the Google interface, but Rokus never did this to me...
 

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You probably encountered some network issue. For me, D+ shows 4K UHD and Dolby Vision on shows that should be 4K and DV.
 

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Anyone else finding the built-in storage awfully limiting? Maybe I have too many streaming services, but yikes. It gets to the point where my apps cannot update and I have to start deleting stuff. Yeah, I know about using a USB-C hub and all that, but that's not what I want to do with a bedroom/office streaming dongle.

I much prefer the Google interface, but Rokus never did this to me...
That just happened to me like 10 minutes ago. No room to install a 5 MB app. When I got prompted to view storage, I took that option and there was another option to delete the cache of all apps with just a single click. So I did not have to go into each individual app. That cleared up 618 MB of space.

So there was no need to delete any apps. Just kill the cache.

-T
 

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Anyone else finding the built-in storage awfully limiting? Maybe I have too many streaming services, but yikes. It gets to the point where my apps cannot update and I have to start deleting stuff. Yeah, I know about using a USB-C hub and all that, but that's not what I want to do with a bedroom/office streaming dongle.

I much prefer the Google interface, but Rokus never did this to me...
That's why there is Shield Pro. Almost all other Android TV devices are 8GB only (and 4GB usable). I have never encountered storage problem on any of them 8GB Android TV boxes but I only install apps that I need (which 4 or 5 tops).
 

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You probably encountered some network issue. For me, D+ shows 4K UHD and Dolby Vision on shows that should be 4K and DV.
Issue resolved. I checked the TV and made sure the HDMI signal plus was set on the Samsung to allow 4K. And it was already set.

Restarted the Chromecast with Google TV and the issue was still there. So then I figured well let me double check the resolution. And that was the issue. I read about this elsewhere. The dongle resets to 1080p 60 hertz. So that was the issue I had to change it to 4K 60 hz again. But there is this other nagging issue of resetting the output depending on how it feels particular day :)

-T
 

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That just happened to me like 10 minutes ago. No room to install a 5 MB app. When I got prompted to view storage, I took that option and there was another option to delete the cache of all apps with just a single click. So I did not have to go into each individual app. That cleared up 618 MB of space.

So there was no need to delete any apps. Just kill the cache.
True! And I do that...well, let's call it semi-regularly. ;) It just struck me that I never had to do that on a cheap Roku stick. Probably because the code for their interface likely takes no room at all. :D
That's why there is Shield Pro. Almost all other Android TV devices are 8GB only (and 4GB usable). I have never encountered storage problem on any of them 8GB Android TV boxes but I only install apps that I need (which 4 or 5 tops).
Oh absolutely on the Shield Pro, and in fact, that's the box I've got in my main TV room. And yeah, I have nearly all of the main streamers, plus some B-tier ones, and of course Plex. It adds up.

But for bedrooms, a Shield Pro seems a bit pricey. Still, I'll monitor the situation for now. I do have a tendency to over-install (e.g. I had installed Jellyfin to play with, but I'm not actively using it), so maybe some judicious pruning is likely called for. But if the problem recurs with any real frequency, I may have to go back to Roku and their interface.
 

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Best option would be a physical connection; Bluetooth may limit your audio quality and reduce reliability. If you can't use the soundbar's HDMI port, a USB-C hub or HDMI switch with audio extraction may be an option? Or, does ARC reliably work between TV and soundbar? I know ARC wasn't a possibility with my TV and soundbar; my devices aren't compatible.

I know of no way to force this with Bluetooth. But you can get to settings quicker with voice command or long press home button and navigate to settings.

I'm using an HDMI switch with audio extraction via HDMI for audio for my older soundbar that has no HDR passthrough. But one last thought on your wireless Bluetooth connection, last device connected should try to auto connect if it sees the device when power cycled.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Thanks. I am trying to simplify and not have wires showing, thus using BT. The audio quality is fine, it's just soundbar and most people would never be able to hear the difference.

The voice control was a good suggestion that I hadn't thought of, but Google doesn't support voice commands for connecting to the last used Bluetooth device, which is strange.

I am hoping that now that they are implementing Stadia functionality, they'll pay better attention to Bluetooth, as it will have to connect to the gamepad.

If all else fails, I'll just replace it with an Apple TV.
 

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One other major omission: There is no way to group Google TV with a Chromecast speaker and choose the Chromecast speaker as the default sound device.

It's possible to do so with all Google hubs and one would think that Google would implement it in Google TV, so that the sound could be cast to a speaker or a soundbar. But sadly, it's not possible.
 

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Changelog:
1. Support for Stadia
2. Additional improvements toBluetooth latency for speakers and headphones
3. Advanced video settings don't reset after reboots on some TVs
4. Additional bug fixes and performance improvements.

#1 is interesting. #3 might be the solution for those who suffer from reset to 1080p bug.
 

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My testing shows that latest firmware update also enables 4K60p DV playback in Plex. Previously all those DV test clips with 4K 60p won't play at all. However, I'm not sure if it is due to Plex updates or firmware updates.
 

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So I have had the CCWGTV (terrible name...lol) for about two weeks now and I'm really mixed on this thing. Part of me really likes it. Part of me wants to chuck it out.

Here's my set up:
Samsung NeoQled 9Series
Denon X4700 and Atmos set up

I can use the native apps on the TV but it's nice to be able to overlay the denon menus so a streaming device is a benefit there and I was thinking Google would get this one right. Issues I have are flickering to black screen. Audio miscalibration on Atmos. 1080p reset. Etc

I generally like google stuff and am locked into the ecosystem, but would love if they stopped messing around and made a premium hardware streamer.
 

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1080p reset
Out of curiosity, is that continuing to be an issue after today's update?
I generally like google stuff and am locked into the ecosystem, but would love if they stopped messing around and made a premium hardware streamer.
This was never going to be a premium streamer. This is designed to compete with Fire TV Sticks and the like.

If you want a premium streamer that integrates nicely with the Google ecosystem, then you want the Nvidia TV Shield Pro.
 

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Out of curiosity, is that continuing to be an issue after today's update?

This was never going to be a premium streamer. This is designed to compete with Fire TV Sticks and the like.

If you want a premium streamer that integrates nicely with the Google ecosystem, then you want the Nvidia TV Shield Pro.
I just installed the update so not sure if it's fixed.

Shield pro is ok. I tried it and it was pretty snappy and overall good. But the one thing it lacks is YouTube HDR and HDR10+ (not that 10+ a major deal breaker... But it should have that imho for nearly 4x price premium over many of these). Has that changed?
 
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