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Discussion Starter #121
What do you think about this version (with and without grills) compared to just doing the acoustic panels on top? I got rid of the chair rail. My original renderings were using half round, this version has moulding probably a little closer to the real thing.


koach - is the original still your favorite?



 

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I like the last picture the best (with the grills)
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Floyd,

THanks for your vote.


Tedd,

I just create the vision. It's up to the guy with the hammer to figure out how to build it.
I'm assuming there would be furring strips that divide up the OC703 on the wall that the grills would attach to.


I'm not sure I'm sold on the grills in this latest design given all the varying lines and levels that now exist. By taking out the chair rail...you kind of lose some sort of reference point and balance to the wall. Just getting a feel for what others think and hopefully generate some more ideas.


I'm hoping to have a plan that allows me the flexibility to choose my favorite design (with chair rail) if I can't notice much difference in the acoustics after doing a field test with the speakers and receiver and OC703 placement. Then this plan B that compromises the look slightly for sound. But either will hopefully be able to be done after the drywall goes up.


The only few differences between my favorite and this latest design is the size of the acoustic panels, chair rail, and the size of the bottom moulding.
 

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I like B and E from the previous page. For some reason panels that resemble doors and windows are jumping out at me in your renderings.


BTW, have you seen this theater? I can't help thinking everytime I see how classy your renderings are that it reminds me of this one with a different color scheme.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccool96 /forum/post/15657653


Currently at this stage!


Screen Shot


Back of room
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18051221


What do you think about this version (with and without grills) compared to just doing the acoustic panels on top? I got rid of the chair rail. My original renderings were using half round, this version has moulding probably a little closer to the real thing.


koach - is the original still your favorite?

The original is still my favorite, but I'm biased. I went through similar different designs when I was planning mine and ultimately settled on the one I like the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
IN2Photos,


Yeah - I do believe I've run into that theater before. I like especially like the way they did the ceiling and thought that might make doing a star ceiling a little bit easier because you'd be dealing with much smaller panels and not have to worry about hiding seams.


koach,

I think I'm pretty close now to where I just need to talk to someone on the construction side to verify my insets around the foundation. I have enough concepts that I think I can make decisions later. I just have to make sure that column in the last row doesn't get too close to the back row seats making it difficult to get someone through.


One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18068922



One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?


Small penetrations are not a really big issue if there's insulation in the cavity behind them. Examples would be a speaker wire coming through or small 1" conduit.


Medium penetrations would be something like a single gang junction box. This needs to be sealed up from the backside with a fire-rated putty pad. This seals and adds some mass.


Double gang boxes and larger (ceiling cans) would require a backer box be built to prevent the noise from simply polluting the air cavity and framing behind the protective double drywall. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...llation_guide/
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18068922


One thought that crossed my mind is that if I go with DD/GG and then start puching holes to mount columns, fabric, trim, etc. Won't that defeat the purpose?

For my theater, I installed the drywall and then put the columns in, so there is complete GG coverage all around. Your're not making a hole in the drywall when you screw or nail through it, because the nail or screw plugs the hole it makes. Remember the drywall itself has a bunch of screws holding it to the studs (or hat track).


I'm not a fan of the grills. The blank acoustic panels look much classier IMO.
 

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Lose the chair rail and go full length with the panels. Remember that less is often more. Here is a shot of a similar theater:

 

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Discussion Starter #133
Thanks Ted and 3FingerBrown for your feedback.


That makes sense on the sound proofing. I do plan to create start by building as much of the room as possible with dd/gg. Then add the columns and most of the room soffit afterwards. I have some pipes on the left side of the ceiling that we'll have to build around. So I'm assuming the builder will have to do the soffit and ceiling on that one side at the same time.


I like to grills in some of the renders, in others, it does seem busy. I hadn't seen that theater image you posted 3fingerbrown. I may try something similar.

Quote:
Looks like you have a nice space to work with. When do you plan to start your build?

schmidtwi - I haven't actually set a start date. I have some hvac stuff that needs to happen before I can begin. I'll also need to determine whether I should treat the walls with DryLok or not. I know I have a little crack near the corner that a little water seaped through last year when we had extremely heavy rains. I'll need to modify my landscaping outside which will help, but want to make sure it doesn't get in the theater at all costs. As soon as I have all my future proofing plans thought out to the point I can instruct the contractor on what to do, I'll be on it. The good thing is I probably don't have the time or skills to do the work myself. So it should go fairly quickly as long as I don't hold things up.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18076722


I'll also need to determine whether I should treat the walls with DryLok or not. I know I have a little crack near the corner that a little water seaped through last year when we had extremely heavy rains. I'll need to modify my landscaping outside which will help, but want to make sure it doesn't get in the theater at all costs.

If you have a crack, get it sealed ASAP, regardless of whether or not you go with Drylock.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18076722



That makes sense on the sound proofing. I do plan to create start by building as much of the room as possible with dd/gg. Then add the columns and most of the room soffit afterwards. I have some pipes on the left side of the ceiling that we'll have to build around. So I'm assuming the builder will have to do the soffit and ceiling on that one side at the same time.

You'll want to plan all that out now before drywall goes up, as you'll have to have framing suitable to support the load of the soffit.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
koach,

Yeah - that'll be the first thing I tackle. At second look, it appears it's not a hairline crack, but more like the leak came from one point and ran down the wall. The water stained the wall, which made it look like it was a crack. So it might not be as bad as I thought. I'll need to get some better light on it to tell for sure though.


Ted,

I'm hoping I can bounce each wall off you before I meet with the contractor so I can make sure it gets done the way you recommend. I'll put some more details together and get your recommendations.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18076906


koach,


Ted,

I'm hoping I can bounce each wall off you before I meet with the contractor so I can make sure it gets done the way you recommend. I'll put some more details together and get your recommendations.

No problem. Better to have these consultations up front so all are on the same page.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
So what's my plan of attack if I have a false floor in the lower level dropdown that rises about 6" and covers an area on my plan that is 13'8" x 17'9". Do I fill it with insulation? On top of that false floor will be the first row seating riser as well. Since the furnace room, injector and well are all on the other side (and the noisiest thing I'm dealing with)...I'll need to make sure I'm soundproofing the area where the raised floor meets.


I also need to frame around the well pipe and keep it pretty tight. I think I can frame 2x4 inbetween the well pipe and the wall with just enough gap so the 2x4's don't touch the wall and the pipe. Ideally, something could be removable in case a leak or something ever happened right where the pipe enters the foundation. This are is important because my daughter's room is above this area. Perhaps I could have them build a double layer of MDF that screws into the studs and would then be removable for access. Then the dryall meets up with the MDF.




My other big concern is flooding. This area has flooded before due to a power outage and the sump pump not working during heavy rains. I looked into a generator for the house, but it was super expensive. So I'll probably just invest in some type of battery backup system. But I'm just trying to play worst case...say it does flood. I'm assuming all the wood that gets soaked is pretty much ruined?
 

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I would encourage you to get a second pump in that sump pump crock in the ground. Battery operated with a deep cycle marine battery and alarm.


Zoeller makes good stuff.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/18082097



My other big concern is flooding. This area has flooded before due to a power outage and the sump pump not working during heavy rains. I looked into a generator for the house, but it was super expensive. So I'll probably just invest in some type of battery backup system. But I'm just trying to play worst case...say it does flood. I'm assuming all the wood that gets soaked is pretty much ruined?

If you just want backup for your sump, you can do it pretty cheaply if you don't mind manually starting up the generator.


I set this up for my aunt who was in the same situation; all she wanted was backup for the sump, cheap...


I installed a small transfer switch like this ($250)


You could actually run a few other things like lighting or a furnace depending on the generator you choose. My aunt wanted the smallest one I could get just for the sump, so I ordered this one. ($400) It's pretty small, light (~30lbs) and pretty quiet (54db). She just puts it outside the garage, plugs the cord into the switch and starts it up.


Of course, if you don't want/can't wire the switch, you could always just get the generator and extension cord... ghetto maybe, but cheap and works fine.

The only caveat to this option is you obviously have to be home and awake for it to work.


Personally I went with an auto switch.


You have another option if you have city water: a water driven backup pump like this one. No power required, no battery to maintain and it is automatic. The most expensive model they have is $500. This is only one manufacturer...
 
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