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Discussion Starter #101
Nice progress! Drywall is tough. It was one of the most, probably the most, time consuming and labor intensive part for me. I'm finishing the rest of my basement and I'm seriously thinking about hiring it out.
The last time I finished a basement, I swore to myself I would hire out the drywall next time - however, this time I decided not to because it seemed like finding someone who could do the double drywall/green glue correctly could be difficult (lot of forum members warning about this), so I decided to do myself. - also pandemic- didn't want people in the house. At least this time my taping and mudding don't have to get to a regular interior finish. I think in my first drywall adventure, I spent 10% of my time hanging drywall, 90% of my timing taping, mudding, sanding, remudding, resanding, remudding, resanding, forever until I was happy with it. With this room, i'm hoping to do only 2 rounds on each seam and call it a day since it will all be covered. I also feel like I know how to apply mud better than I did 15 years ago so there isn't as much work sanding it down.
 

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The last time I finished a basement, I swore to myself I would hire out the drywall next time - however, this time I decided not to because it seemed like finding someone who could do the double drywall/green glue correctly could be difficult (lot of forum members warning about this), so I decided to do myself. - also pandemic- didn't want people in the house. At least this time my taping and mudding don't have to get to a regular interior finish. I think in my first drywall adventure, I spent 10% of my time hanging drywall, 90% of my timing taping, mudding, sanding, remudding, resanding, remudding, resanding, forever until I was happy with it. With this room, i'm hoping to do only 2 rounds on each seam and call it a day since it will all be covered. I also feel like I know how to apply mud better than I did 15 years ago so there isn't as much work sanding it down.
Good points. I was like that with my theater as well. I was so particular that I felt I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't do it myself. I did have the mudding and taping hired out. I heard that was more of an art to it and bad taping would stick out like a sore thumb.

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
Good points. I was like that with my theater as well. I was so particular that I felt I wouldn't be satisfied if I didn't do it myself. I did have the mudding and taping hired out. I heard that was more of an art to it and bad taping would stick out like a sore thumb.

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I'm not too worried about it in the theatre room, as I will end up covering most of it with Fabric and trim, so you won't really see it. As I've been doing it this time, I've been obsessive about getting the mud wetness and mix just right - even then it can be difficult. I realized that the straight seams when you butt 2 uncut edges to each other on the walls is pretty easy to get done. The corners are a little bit harder. The two things I'vefound are the most difficult are are places where you have to butt two cut edges together. There isn't that small indent to put the tape in, so you have to feather it more - the more of these you have, the more work you'll have to do to hide it. The other thing that (for me) is way harder to get right is the ceiling. I don't know if it because gravity is working against me, or the angle isn't good to put the pressure on as well, but my ceiling looks like crap compared to my walls after the first round - I'll have to spend a lot more time sanding it. Maybe that is why almost all ceilings are textured. :) I've been trying to do a good job in the theatre, more for practice for the outside of the theatre, which will be visible drywall when all is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Great build. Love automated mask documentation!

Thanks, I’ve made a lot more progress, but not to the point of testing the full setup yet.

Here’s a few pics of the parts I’m making. These pics are of the leading edge of the mask. I 3D printed them in black. Each one is 5” long, with little inserts. For my screen I’ll have 13 on each side. The hole in the center is for a 1/4” threaded rod. This should hold everything together. I’m going to wrap the mask around this.







For the tube, I’ve printed these shapes. They aren’t pure circles, but octagons because I thought they’d go together and hold torque better. In both designs, the slots are dual purpose- first to save plastic on the printer and weight on the part. second, if in need to I can print little inserts to hold the fabric or to stiffen the system.






I’ve also designed and printed a bracket to hold a NEMA23 motor and it’s controller (~$100 worth of parts per side) and an adapter to lock into these tubes. I still need to make a bracket and adapter for the other end of the tube.
The bracket makes the tube even with the leading edge pieces in the front, and takes up about 3/4” in in the back for the controller. I’ve also wired a limit switch in there so my software knows when the system is all the way open.


I’ll be controlling this with a raspberry pi setup as a web host. I’ve written and tested most of the basic code and it works fine. This will allow my home automation system to send a simple tcp command to make it go to one of several presets.










On a side note, if you don’t have a 3D printer, consider it. I just got mine earlier this year and it has been so useful. You can find a lot of stuff already pre designed to just print. Just today, I had a broken dresser drawer plastic slider thing, googled 3D designs, found a bunch of different ones and printed the one that looked right. 2 hours and about $1.00 worth of PLA and I had a fixed dresser. Have also found a lot of simple brackets for things like network switches, etc.

I also taught myself cad by watching YouTube and found some easy to use free cad software to do my own designs. ( there is a bunch of wasted PLA in a landfill somewhere from me learning how to print things) but I’m really glad I got it.


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Discussion Starter #106
The "CRAVE" Theatre

In addition to my above post, I’ve made good progress on drywall. I have every sheet of drywall hung inside the room. Both first layer and green glued layer. There are a few small pieces in the back of the room I’m still cutting to finish up. I’ve also got about 50% of the taping and mudding and sanding done.

Here’s the front of the theatre this afternoon



I’m hoping to have it fully taped and mudded by next week. Have house guests this weekend so might fall closer to next weekend

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Thanks, I’ve made a lot more progress, but not to the point of testing the full setup yet.

Here’s a few pics of the parts I’m making. These pics are of the leading edge of the mask. I 3D printed them in black. Each one is 5” long, with little inserts. For my screen I’ll have 13 on each side. The hole in the center is for a 1/4” threaded rod. This should hold everything together. I’m going to wrap the mask around this.







For the tube, I’ve printed these shapes. They aren’t pure circles, but octagons because I thought they’d go together and hold torque better. In both designs, the slots are dual purpose- first to save plastic on the printer and weight on the part. second, if in need to I can print little inserts to hold the fabric or to stiffen the system.






I’ve also designed and printed a bracket to hold a NEMA23 motor and it’s controller (~$100 worth of parts per side) and an adapter to lock into these tubes. I still need to make a bracket and adapter for the other end of the tube.
The bracket makes the tube even with the leading edge pieces in the front, and takes up about 3/4” in in the back for the controller. I’ve also wired a limit switch in there so my software knows when the system is all the way open.


I’ll be controlling this with a raspberry pi setup as a web host. I’ve written and tested most of the basic code and it works fine. This will allow my home automation system to send a simple tcp command to make it go to one of several presets.










On a side note, if you don’t have a 3D printer, consider it. I just got mine earlier this year and it has been so useful. You can find a lot of stuff already pre designed to just print. Just today, I had a broken dresser drawer plastic slider thing, googled 3D designs, found a bunch of different ones and printed the one that looked right. 2 hours and about $1.00 worth of PLA and I had a fixed dresser. Have also found a lot of simple brackets for things like network switches, etc.

I also taught myself cad by watching YouTube and found some easy to use free cad software to do my own designs. ( there is a bunch of wasted PLA in a landfill somewhere from me learning how to print things) but I’m really glad I got it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am hopefully not to far off from you! I just finished my first roll of PETG, and I’m a fan.

My motorized masking system
is a WIP- i finally decided an Arduino and ethernet shield were more reliable than 4 ESP8266’s, though I’m nit using beefy stepper drivers (yet).

What HA platform you running?
 

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I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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Discussion Starter #109
I am hopefully not to far off from you! I just finished my first roll of PETG, and I’m a fan.

My motorized masking system
is a WIP- i finally decided an Arduino and ethernet shield were more reliable than 4 ESP8266’s, though I’m nit using beefy stepper drivers (yet).

What HA platform you running?

I’ve got a sort of custom HA platform that I wrote most of the interface on a raspberry pi. I started it so that I could hack in the ability to control most things from a harmony remote. I’ve written it so that it I can glue any system into it as I want as long as the API isn’t too secret.

I can talk to all my electronics over it. I’ve done interfaces for all my AV gear, smart WiFi dimmers and switch’s, wink hub interface. Most recently I added ability to interface to Marantz HEOS so that I can get my whole house Audio working. I have a few custom relay drivers, LED light controllers and my masking system that I’ve written interfaces as slaves to the main system.

I also have iRule for iPhone control and am planning on making an alexa skill for the Setup.

I have a link to it in my signature.


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Discussion Starter #110
I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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I wanted it to be modular so I could actually print it and not fabricate it out of metal or whatever.
I'm perfectly happy to share. AVS won't allow me to attach stl files here, so I made a thing on thingiverse (awesome website if you have a 3D printer) for anyone interested.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501799

You'll have to make sure to buy your buddy a roll or two of PLA. :) I think I've used about 1kg making all my parts so far, and my edges are for the horizontal side. With my print settings, each one takes about 3 hours to print, so i have been starting a print at dinner, at bedtime, when i first wake up, etc. (the tabs print pretty fast)

I will hopefully be testing the whole system out in a few weeks. Right now my main concern with the leading edge pieces is that I made them a little too thin (was trying to make mask as thin as possible and as close to screen as possible) and when I put 13 together they can flex pretty well in the same plane as the screen. I'm hoping that won't be much of a problem when everything is under tension. Probably the worst thing that will happen is that it may rub against screen, which I don't want. I may have to widen them out, or add some ridges to stiffen. They are pretty wide in the direction that they will be pulled on and don't have any flex. I might be more worried if I had to make a 14 foot long section. Also, not sure how easy it will be to find a threaded rod that long.



Here are a few cad screen shots of the overall system as I've designed it so far. My motors will be on the bottom of the screen frame even though they look like on top in the pics.

Mask Pic1.PNG
MaskPic2.PNG
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I really like the scalability of your masking leading edge piece. Any chance you would share the .stl file? I don't have a 3d printer but a buddy does. I am gonna need about a 14 foot horizontal mask and this will probably fit the bill. Keep up the great work!


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As an aside, your profile mentions you live in Indiana? What part? I'm in Fishers.
 

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I wanted it to be modular so I could actually print it and not fabricate it out of metal or whatever.

I'm perfectly happy to share. AVS won't allow me to attach stl files here, so I made a thing on thingiverse (awesome website if you have a 3D printer) for anyone interested.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4501799



You'll have to make sure to buy your buddy a roll or two of PLA. :) I think I've used about 1kg making all my parts so far, and my edges are for the horizontal side. With my print settings, each one takes about 3 hours to print, so i have been starting a print at dinner, at bedtime, when i first wake up, etc. (the tabs print pretty fast)



I will hopefully be testing the whole system out in a few weeks. Right now my main concern with the leading edge pieces is that I made them a little too thin (was trying to make mask as thin as possible and as close to screen as possible) and when I put 13 together they can flex pretty well in the same plane as the screen. I'm hoping that won't be much of a problem when everything is under tension. Probably the worst thing that will happen is that it may rub against screen, which I don't want. I may have to widen them out, or add some ridges to stiffen. They are pretty wide in the direction that they will be pulled on and don't have any flex. I might be more worried if I had to make a 14 foot long section. Also, not sure how easy it will be to find a threaded rod that long.







Here are a few cad screen shots of the overall system as I've designed it so far. My motors will be on the bottom of the screen frame even though they look like on top in the pics.



View attachment 2749336

View attachment 2749338
Thanks for the link and I will definitely be watching your progress.....as well as @sor and @MinHeadroom because you guys are more clever than me!

I would definitely have to buy my buddy some PLA and maybe a new printer as many I would need lol. The beauty of your design for the 14 foot width (I'm doing a 2:1 CA setup) is that I should be able to get a turnbuckle to attach the two rods together and it would be internal to your design...assuming it fits. I was gonna use flat metal stock like sor did but I don't know where to get 14 foot stock. If printing doesn't work I guess I may have to look outside of the typical big box stores. I also need to figure out how to attach the 2 2inch rollease pieces also. Definitely will be a work in progress...once I start. Lol.

Ok I hijacked your thread long enough, thanks again and I am looking forward to seeing your raspberry pi in action although I will go the same route @sor did...

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Awesome build! I got a great laugh out of the 2x4 going through the windshield, thanks for sharing that embarrassing moment lol, I could imaging the confusion and then finding the damage.
 
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Discussion Starter #116
Awesome build! I got a great laugh out of the 2x4 going through the windshield, thanks for sharing that embarrassing moment lol, I could imaging the confusion and then finding the damage.
dang it. I had successfully blocked that from my memory until just now. way to reopen that old wound!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Big milestone for me. Green glued in the last of the drywall today and caulked everything. Will try to tape mud and sand everything by next weekend. As you can see I’m in various stages of that depending on which part of the room I’m showing.






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Discussion Starter #118
Well, I now have every seam and corner taped and mudded. Some are even sanded down waiting for a final coat. I have put the kids to work on the sanding as it kills my neck and shoulders and I don’t like doing it. ;)

Meanwhile, I got the whole front sanded so I started on my stage. Built the frame and had the boys carry 80 bags of play sand down to the basement and filled the frame.



Yesterday I started putting the curved parts and cutting the plywood for the top and the steps.

Here is pics of some of the rough cuts. First layer only.









2 questions before I go further.

1. My rough cuts overhang 2 inches. Is that too much? I was going for 1.5” but decided that too long was a better place to start from and jig sawing is not too much work.

2. I plan on flush trimming the 2nd layer and then using a round over bit to make it like a bull nose. I plan on carpeting over this. Should i do rounded edges on top and bottom or would just top be okay?

3. When I get to the point of fastening everything down, do I put roofers felt between the bottom plywood and frame as well as between 2 sheets of plywood?


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2 questions before I go further.

1. My rough cuts overhang 2 inches. Is that too much? I was going for 1.5” but decided that too long was a better place to start from and jig sawing is not too much work.

2. I plan on flush trimming the 2nd layer and then using a round over bit to make it like a bull nose. I plan on carpeting over this. Should i do rounded edges on top and bottom or would just top be okay?

3. When I get to the point of fastening everything down, do I put roofers felt between the bottom plywood and frame as well as between 2 sheets of plywood?


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I went 1 1/2 and rounded over the top and bottom. I did the bottom upside down before installing it.


 

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