Introduction...
After a year and a half in my house, I've finally started in my home theater and finally found the perfect name...
The Dark Knight Theater
It started out with just as just a cool name, but has slowly morphed into the theater's theme.
I'm putting the theater in my walkout basement, which has already been framed with 2x6's. The existing raw dimensions of the room are approximately 13'6" wide by 22'6" long by 10' high. Here is the basic floor plan:
This is an ongoing project.
Reference notes and links:
Model Theaters
ReedZone Theater: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=735097
Farm House Cinema: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=627306
Mr.Poindexter: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640853
Steve Jenkins: http://theater.stevejenkins.com/gallery/complete/
TK Theaters: http://www.tktheaters.com/gallery/tuscany/
BigJoeMoose's Theatre: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1018914
Big Mouth in DC: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=683853
DE Theater: http://blog.audiovideointeriors.com/407roof/
Helene: Prototype System of Tomorrow: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=908533
Cinema Kellogg: http://web.mac.com/donkellogg/Cinema_Kellogg/Chronicle/Chronicle.html
Sandmans Home Theater: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574704
Ted White's Theater: http://tedwhite.homestead.com/
Completed theaters: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1061114
Kirk's DE designed theater: http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/Construction1.html
Anandtech Theater Blog: http://www.anandtech.com/weblog/default.aspx?bcategory=8
The Getaway: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022589&page=1
Theater Setup
Overview: http://www.audioholics.com/education/acoustics-principles/haa-level-i-certification-training-course-overview
http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=14914495
From Dennis Erskine
Subwoofers -
EQ will be required plus your room design should allow the ability to move and
relocated the subs during the calilbration process. Generally, you should avoid
having the drivers point directly into the seating locations. If you do, an 1"
of fiberglass board ( like OC703) can be placed in front of the sub's driver.
These drivers create HF artifacts as a result of their operation. These
artifacts can lead to subwoofer localization ... something you want to avoid.
Comb Filtering:
The audible impact of comb filtering is very unequal frequency response within
critical frequency ranges. The same sound from two different speakers will cross
paths, and, when they do, you'll have some frequencies cancelled (180 degrees
out of phase) and other frequencies augmented (in phase) plus all the variations
in between. These cancellations/augmentations will be inconsistent throughout
the room.
Isolation:
Reducing noise entering a space and reducing noise leaving that space to
adjoining rooms is NOT mutually exclusive, nor did I say that. My point is the
REAL reason sound isolation should be employed in dedicated rooms is to reduce
the noise floor IN the room. The fact those efforts assist in reducing noise
levels OUTSIDE the room should be considered a bonus. There are some differences
between the two efforts. First, a significant cause of high noise floors in a
room are a result of the noise brought into the room by the A/V installer or
home owner ... the equipment. Other in room sources of noise include HVAC noise.
The remainder is noise entering the room from the outside which needs to be
eliminated. Second, if the sound track is at 75dB in the room, and ambient noise
levels outside the room are at 35dB, you have a 40dB problem to solve. If the
ambient noise in the room (from outside sources) is 35dB, you have a 13dB
problem to solve. Don't get excited ... that sounds easi
er than it is and when we say 'noise floor' the metric is either NC or NR which
are weighted curves across a broad spectrum of frequencies.
The desired standard for noise transmission from inside a room to the adjoining
spaces is the theater should not increase the ambient noise level outside the
room by more than 3 dB SPL
Show me your...: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978755
Sound isolation:
http://home1.gte.net/res18h39/thxscope.gif
http://home1.gte.net/res18h39/calculator.htm
THX recommends 36 degree viewing angle from back row (26 degree minimum) in regular theater.
Room Acoustics: http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/Room_acoustics.html
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?4765
http://www.scribd.com/doc/6788280/Ho...ustical-Design
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles...des/modes.html
http://www.mcsquared.com/modecalc.htm
http://www.realtraps.com/modecalc.htm
http://www.holmacoustics.com/holmimpulse.php
Speaker locations for Audyssey DSX 10.1:
Channel 1: Left Main (placed 30 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at ear level)
Channel 2: (NEW) Left Height (placed 45 degrees to the left of the center line, and at a 45 degree up-angle relative to ear level)
Channel 3: (NEW) Left Wide (placed 60 degrees to the left of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 4: Left Surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
Channel 5: Center Front (placed on the system centerline, front of room, as close to ear level as practicable)
Channel 6: (NEW, Optional) Center Rear (placed on the system centerline, rear of room, at or above ear level)
Channel 7: Right Main (placed 30 degrees to the right of the system centerline, at ear level)
Channel 8: (NEW) Right Height (placed 45 degrees to the right of the center line, and at a 45 degree up angle relative to ear level)
Channel 9: (NEW) Right wide (placed 60 degrees to the right of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 10: Right surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
The “.2” Channels: Subwoofer 1 and 2 (positioned for best in-room bass response, but typically might be positioned in left/right front or left/right side locations)
Bass traps: http://www.peparsplace.com/Pg_23.htm
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/basstrap.htm
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055475
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14578163#post14578163
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14581123#post14581123
How to place: http://www.realtraps.com/lf-noise.htm
Using a riser as a bass trap: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1103345
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=859771
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029689
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1068227
http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2032618/Home_Theatre_Riser_other_Broad#Post2032618
Integra Firmware Updates: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297
Riser Height: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=505237
Riser construction: http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/do-it-yourself-diy-topics/multifunction-theater-seat-riser
TXH general specs for home theater:
http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/thx2.html
http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/athx1.html
Picture
theater color: http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ive.htm
Lighting
Masking
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=941076
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008446
Control
http://www.guifx.com/store/products/1077
www.crestron.com
Other
Install access door in soffit for sanitary sewer cleanout.
Mark floor at studs for easier drywall and furring strip insulation.
Fidelio velvet: http://www.bymichelle.com/fidelio.html
Theater intro: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1045823
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=715166
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1049435
Star ceiling:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=911313
Other painted option: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1048747
Before and after pics:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628588
How to take screen shots:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1024326
How to take pan shots from Duositex:
"In order for automerge in Photoshop to "do its thing" it needs the images to
overlap by 40%. Or at least that's what it kept telling me. Eventually I simply
pasted one image on top of the other and used the warp feature of CS4 (not sure
if this was in CS3 or not...) to correct for the perspective in each image. Once
they lined up ok (and I do mean ok.. its not great) I used the "Auto-Blend
Layers" feature which, I have to say, worked fantastically on the first try. If
I had more images to work with, it all probably would've come out better, but
I'm pleased overall considering it was just two.
Sorry for the verbose breakdown....
P.S. I did no color correction.. I leave that to the owner to decide since I
wasn't present when he took the pictures to know if they're at all accurate."
Video Calibration:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550
Audio Calibration:
software: http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/
Receiver has Audyssey, so will likely just use built-in software
Audyssey Calibration: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=795421
http://www.cepro.com/article/audyssey_shows_calibration_kit_for_installer_program/K29
FAQ: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14456895#post14456895
http://www.electronichouse.com/article/audyssey_dynamic_eq_and_dynamic_volume/D1/
Popcorn popper:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1063039
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14687615#post14687615
Audio sweep tones: http://www.dr-lex.be/software/testsounds.html
Steps to completion:
Along with some other theaters here, my theater was in the Electronics House's Best DIY Theater issue:
http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...y_projects/diy
It was also in the January/February 2011 Electronic House:
http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...ghts_bat_cave/
I now have both of these articles framed and hung.
Here's the guy who did the GUI for my touchpanel- he's a great guy and I highly recommend him if you need any GUI work done:
http://guijaboard.com/wp/?p=108
I'd appreciate any comments or help!
Thanks!!
CJ
After a year and a half in my house, I've finally started in my home theater and finally found the perfect name...
The Dark Knight Theater

It started out with just as just a cool name, but has slowly morphed into the theater's theme.
I'm putting the theater in my walkout basement, which has already been framed with 2x6's. The existing raw dimensions of the room are approximately 13'6" wide by 22'6" long by 10' high. Here is the basic floor plan:

This is an ongoing project.
Reference notes and links:
Model Theaters
ReedZone Theater: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=735097
Farm House Cinema: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=627306
Mr.Poindexter: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640853
Steve Jenkins: http://theater.stevejenkins.com/gallery/complete/
TK Theaters: http://www.tktheaters.com/gallery/tuscany/
BigJoeMoose's Theatre: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1018914
Big Mouth in DC: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=683853
DE Theater: http://blog.audiovideointeriors.com/407roof/
Helene: Prototype System of Tomorrow: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=908533
Cinema Kellogg: http://web.mac.com/donkellogg/Cinema_Kellogg/Chronicle/Chronicle.html
Sandmans Home Theater: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574704
Ted White's Theater: http://tedwhite.homestead.com/
Completed theaters: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1061114
Kirk's DE designed theater: http://home.comcast.net/~kirkk/Construction1.html
Anandtech Theater Blog: http://www.anandtech.com/weblog/default.aspx?bcategory=8
The Getaway: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022589&page=1
Theater Setup
Overview: http://www.audioholics.com/education/acoustics-principles/haa-level-i-certification-training-course-overview
http://www.hometoys.com/news_detail.php?id=14914495
From Dennis Erskine
Subwoofers -
EQ will be required plus your room design should allow the ability to move and
relocated the subs during the calilbration process. Generally, you should avoid
having the drivers point directly into the seating locations. If you do, an 1"
of fiberglass board ( like OC703) can be placed in front of the sub's driver.
These drivers create HF artifacts as a result of their operation. These
artifacts can lead to subwoofer localization ... something you want to avoid.
Comb Filtering:
The audible impact of comb filtering is very unequal frequency response within
critical frequency ranges. The same sound from two different speakers will cross
paths, and, when they do, you'll have some frequencies cancelled (180 degrees
out of phase) and other frequencies augmented (in phase) plus all the variations
in between. These cancellations/augmentations will be inconsistent throughout
the room.
Isolation:
Reducing noise entering a space and reducing noise leaving that space to
adjoining rooms is NOT mutually exclusive, nor did I say that. My point is the
REAL reason sound isolation should be employed in dedicated rooms is to reduce
the noise floor IN the room. The fact those efforts assist in reducing noise
levels OUTSIDE the room should be considered a bonus. There are some differences
between the two efforts. First, a significant cause of high noise floors in a
room are a result of the noise brought into the room by the A/V installer or
home owner ... the equipment. Other in room sources of noise include HVAC noise.
The remainder is noise entering the room from the outside which needs to be
eliminated. Second, if the sound track is at 75dB in the room, and ambient noise
levels outside the room are at 35dB, you have a 40dB problem to solve. If the
ambient noise in the room (from outside sources) is 35dB, you have a 13dB
problem to solve. Don't get excited ... that sounds easi
er than it is and when we say 'noise floor' the metric is either NC or NR which
are weighted curves across a broad spectrum of frequencies.
The desired standard for noise transmission from inside a room to the adjoining
spaces is the theater should not increase the ambient noise level outside the
room by more than 3 dB SPL
Show me your...: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978755
Sound isolation:
- Basic Principles:
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=4440751&postcount=5
- http://www.greengluecompany.com/a-SoundproofingTopic.php
- http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/index.php?/library/articles/elements_of_room_construction
- NC20 discussion: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14615232#post14615232
- Double 5/8" drywall with green glue, stagger seams
- Quasi staggered-stud construction for walls
- Solid doors with weatherstripping and automatic thresholds
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1063385
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=668073
- http://www.greengluecompany.com/soundproofingDoors.php
- http://store.soundproofingcompany.com/product_p/automtic_door_bottom.htm
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14988647
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1096280
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050814
- Homemade plugs for windows
- RSIC V clips for ceiling- http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/index.php?/products/clips/clips_installation
- With 25 gauge resilient channel. Use 2-1/2" to 2-5/8" wide resilient channel. 2-3/4" is too wide and will not seat properly.
- RSIC-DC04 for walls (?): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=804591 - ended up not using
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=762952
- http://www.rsic1clips.com/rsic_clips/rsic-dc04_wall.htm
- Separate HVAC system for basement, separate zone for theater or
- Minisplit? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14486008#post14486008 - ended up tieing into basement HVAC
- Flex duct product 6B or 6M: http://www.flexmasterusa.com/pg/fdpp.php - used normal flex duct
- Use acoustic caulk around all outlets or putty pads. According to Ted White (based on Canadian research), an additional back box is not needed, that the boxes are too small to significantly impact the sound isolation of the room as long as openings are caulked. Putty pads are not necessary, but are easier and quicker than caulk.
- Use sealtight pads on outlet boxes unless surface mount
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055699
- Use isolation pad for floor (may not need): http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=761556
- Or, maybe I do! http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14532646#post14532646 - did not use
- Pad (?), acoustic caulk, sealtight pads from Sound Isolation Company 888-666-509
- Supplier for most materials (GG, RSIC): http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/
http://home1.gte.net/res18h39/thxscope.gif
http://home1.gte.net/res18h39/calculator.htm
THX recommends 36 degree viewing angle from back row (26 degree minimum) in regular theater.

Room Acoustics: http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/Room_acoustics.html
- acoustic measurements: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15406068#post15406068
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=255432
- http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/Room_acoustics.html
- Try to keep seats further than 3.5' from walls
- The best response areas in the room are 38% of the distance from the front and rear walls
- Inwalls need 3.5' of drywall around them (Dennis Erickson)
- Front LCR tweeters 40"-44" off of the floor (ear height)
- Left and right front speakers at least 18" from side walls (Paul Scarpelli- Triad)
- Side surround speakers halfway between ear height (44") and ceiling (102.5")= 73.25"
- Rear surround speakers same height as sides
- Rear surrounds- dipole (Dennis), monopole (Paul)... depends on size of room and dampening. The larger the room and the livelier the room, move towards monopoles. Smaller and highly treated rooms, move toward dipoles.- have monopoles, will change to dipoles when I can
- Rear surrounds around 4' apart (Paul)
- Due to dispersion patterns of the speakers I'm using, use RPG BAD diffusors, or similar, for 1st reflection points (Dennis Erskine)
- Will start with only using bass traps- stuff soffits and columns with standard insulation, face of columns will be CertainTeed CertaPro AcoustaBoard Black, will use rolls of batte insulation behind screen wall still wrapped in plastic, stuffed riser with insulation and added port holes (HVAC registers) along rear and side wall
- Get OC 703 or similar (linacoustic?) from SPI at 3300-A Woodpark Blvd. 704-598-9899
- Other places to purchase material: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1140717
- Fill open-bottomed soffits with denim insulation for bass trapping due to future access needs- too expensive, use regular insulation
- Leave 18" behind screen wall for DIY super chunk corner traps or just rolls of batte insulation- used rolled R30 battes
- UltraTouch denim insulation: http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultratouch.htm
- Insulation sound coefficients: http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
- Linacoustic RC 1"x47"x100'- Acousti Engineering, 2011 Cross Beam Drive, Charlotte 704-424-9766; or Alpha Insul&Waterproofing 3032 Stewart Creek Blvd., Charlotte 704-398-2300
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1062176
- online vendor: http://www.acoustimac.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=11&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=21
- Harmon articles: http://seanolive.blogspot.com/
- Harmon white papers: http://www.harman.com/about_harman/technology_leadership.aspx
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?4765
http://www.scribd.com/doc/6788280/Ho...ustical-Design
http://www.cinemasource.com/articles...des/modes.html
http://www.mcsquared.com/modecalc.htm
http://www.realtraps.com/modecalc.htm
http://www.holmacoustics.com/holmimpulse.php
Speaker locations for Audyssey DSX 10.1:
Channel 1: Left Main (placed 30 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at ear level)
Channel 2: (NEW) Left Height (placed 45 degrees to the left of the center line, and at a 45 degree up-angle relative to ear level)
Channel 3: (NEW) Left Wide (placed 60 degrees to the left of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 4: Left Surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
Channel 5: Center Front (placed on the system centerline, front of room, as close to ear level as practicable)
Channel 6: (NEW, Optional) Center Rear (placed on the system centerline, rear of room, at or above ear level)
Channel 7: Right Main (placed 30 degrees to the right of the system centerline, at ear level)
Channel 8: (NEW) Right Height (placed 45 degrees to the right of the center line, and at a 45 degree up angle relative to ear level)
Channel 9: (NEW) Right wide (placed 60 degrees to the right of the center line, at ear level)
Channel 10: Right surround (placed 120 degrees to the left of the system centerline, at or above ear level)
The “.2” Channels: Subwoofer 1 and 2 (positioned for best in-room bass response, but typically might be positioned in left/right front or left/right side locations)
Bass traps: http://www.peparsplace.com/Pg_23.htm
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/basstrap.htm
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055475
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14578163#post14578163
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14581123#post14581123
How to place: http://www.realtraps.com/lf-noise.htm
Using a riser as a bass trap: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1103345
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=859771
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029689
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1068227
http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/2032618/Home_Theatre_Riser_other_Broad#Post2032618
Integra Firmware Updates: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1016297
Riser Height: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=505237
Riser construction: http://www.audioholics.com/tweaks/do-it-yourself-diy-topics/multifunction-theater-seat-riser
TXH general specs for home theater:
http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/thx2.html
http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/athx1.html
Picture
- 16:9 > =36 degree horizontal viewing angle from back row (26 degree min)
- native HD capable
- Screen luminance > = 16ft lamberts
- THX certified, acoustically transparent screen
- Mid-band reverberant field pink noise
- No audible distortion playing program material at 115dBC
- Background noise
- At least four surround speakers, two side and two back
- Remote controls with a logical user interface
- All basic functions available with a single key stroke
- Video performance measurements taken using Sencore CP5000 quality gear or better
- Audio performance measurements taken using four microphone spatial/temporal RTA techniques with 1/12 octave resolution or better.
theater color: http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ive.htm
Lighting
- Vendors: http://cyron.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=CE
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=895631
- backbox: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5859219#post5859219
- recessed lighting (4" IC sealed w/ LED?)
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15532522#post15532522
- http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/indoor/recessed/4in120vrecessed/ch99icta/index.html
- housing 4" sealed IC ($22.50 ea): http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/indoor/recessed/4in12vrecessed/clv1499icta/index.html
- bulbs- 50W FNV, 60 degree flood (free with housing): http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/bulbs/mr16-usa.html
- reflector/trim- black on black metal, C1421BB ($10.99 ea): http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/indoor/recessed/4in12vrecessed/c1421/index.html#housings
- step light: http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/outdoor/step_deck/recessed/prlb-hl/120v.html
- rope light: http://www.affordablequalitylighting.com/docs/indoor/rope/led/led/index.html
- sconces: http://www.seagulllighting.com/Wall-Lighting-44520-845.html
http://www.seagulllighting.com/Lighting-Fixture-44521-845.html
http://www.seagulllighting.com/Wall-Lighting-4108-71.html
http://www.seagulllighting.com/Sconce-Lighting-41320.html
http://www.seagulllighting.com/Wall-Lighting-4155-85.html - http://www.lightcrafters.com/
- Vendors: http://www.carolinafurnituregroup.com/
- Uptown Charlotte has a Zobo
- Furniturelandsouth. Their showrooms are enormous, and they have a fairly large selection of theater seating. Located in Jamestown NC, very close to Greensboro on Hwy 85.IIRC, the theater stuff is in the building on the left (the one with the Starbucks!), not the larger building on the right.
- You can also try the Hickory Furniture MArt in (surprise) Hickory, NC. IT is very close to 85 also.
- Berkline 45030 seems to be the choice for me
- Buttkickers: http://www.thesoundbroker.com/buttkicker.htm
- Online options: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1060709
- projector- HDMI, 4 CAT5e (serial control, temp sensor, future expansion), Crestnet, 14/2 romex (from double-converting UPS through power inlet), RGB, VGA, composite, 2" conduit from rack with pull string.
- CLS-CL6- 6 14/2 romex (ambiance cans, stage cans, sconces, trey rope light, step lighting, star ceiling), crestnet for control
- riser- romex for future power recliners and touchpanel, 2 CAT5e for touchpanel, crestnet for touchpanel, RGB for touchpanel, speaker wire for future butt kickers, romex for step lighting, 2" conduit with pull string
- front speakers- 5 speaker cables for LCRs and subs, 2 RG6 for future subs
- back speakers- 5 speaker cables for rears and future rears and future subs, 2 RG6 for future subs
- side speakers- 2 speaker cables for side surrounds, 2 RG6 for future subs
- ceiling- conduit with pull string for star ceiling cables
- Crestnet and CAT5e from outside thermostat to inside wall for temp sensor
- Crestnet and CAT5e from outside thermostat to projector for temp sensor
- If HDMI wallplate needed: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=967079
- Projector specs: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic_Home-PT-AE3000.htm
- Shelf mount: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14307095
- Will mount in soffit on shelf
- Powerbridge outlet: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2
- Run HDMI, 4 CAT5e (serial control, temp sensor, future expansion), Crestnet, 12/2 romex, RGB, VGA, composite, 2" conduit to projector.
- Squaring up projector: http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?9620
- Keep air velocity below 250 fpm (Dennis Erickson): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14174187#post14174187 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=808024
- More info from DE: "You'll want two supplies (typically in the front of the room, high mounted) and two returns (high mounted) in the back of the room. You do not want air flow directly on any seating location. You do not want a velocity of more than 250 FPM through any vent (diffusor). You want the HVAC system to maintain a temperature of 70 degrees F with an outdoor temperature range of -30 to 100 degrees F and to maintain a relative humidity of not less than 25% nor greater than 50%. You want six air exhanges per hour and 15 CFM of fresh air per person." http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16857696#post16857696
- Minisplit? http://www.minisplitsystems.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=12KHS71&gclid=CLb1reSd54sCFRNhIgodC0pBTA - ended up sharing with basement HVAC
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=840921
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851028
- acoustic ducting: http://www.flexmasterusa.com/pg/fdpp.php
- http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=328397
- http://www.hvaccomputer.com/
- http://www.energyvideos.com/bldvid.php?P=CA&A=5&S=hva
- https://72.52.223.187/xcart/product.php?productid=541&cat=93&page=1&js=n
- Per Ted White- Use linear slot diffusers.
- Ted White- "Generally first layer is horizontal, second vertical to stagger seams.
- Found out later that this also helps with so that the coincidence resonance is different for each layer, which is a very good thing.
- Start with 1 layer on ceiling, then 1 layer on wall. Then ceiling, then wall.
- Screws on first layer can be shorter than second layer. Generally most people seem to get a screw that will sink 1" into stud . That's more than plenty." (1-1/2" for first layer, 2" for second layer)
- You only need screws that are 1/2" longer than the thickness of the drywall if you are attaching it to 25-gauge resilient channel. (1-1/4" for first layer, 1-3/4" for second layer). Don't go too long or the screw may hit the wood, which would lower the efficiency of the clips and track.
- hanging: http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=731185
- https://72.52.223.187/xcart/product.php?productid=541&cat=93&page=1&js=n
- http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm
- fabric panel stretcher bar source: https://www.utrechtart.com/dsp_view_product.cfm?classId=1317&subclassID=131713&brandname=Best&item=26128
- http://www.frenchcanvas.com/standard_stretcher_bar.asp
- http://www.frenchcanvas.com/extra_heavy_duty_studio_stretcher_bars.asp
- fabric: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1059488
- fabric vendor: http://www.silentsource.com/acousticore-colorchart3.html
- panels: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=768967
- electric boxes: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=907750
- columns: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=800308
- Keep at least 1/4" away from walls.
- Line with plastic and fill with dry sand if subwoofer is set on stage. Can save some time/money/effort by filling only the area under the sub with sand and the rest of the stage with insulation. If subwoofer is not set on stage, or if stage is on second or higher floors, can fill whole stage with insulation.
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055475
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13891436
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055475
- Pucks for isolating riser: http://www.thesoundbroker.com/buttkicker.htm
- Overview: http://www.cepro.com/article/the_235_home_theater_benefits_and_challenges/
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=554901
- http://cavx.blogspot.com/2006/11/marks-home-theatre-projects-cih.html
- http://home1.gte.net/res18h39/calculator.htm faq: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=554901
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=830657 throw: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1030050
- http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=988739
- DIY Lens Mount: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=841816 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=841816
- Lens source: http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l9113d.html
Masking
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=941076
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008446
Control
http://www.guifx.com/store/products/1077
www.crestron.com
Other
Install access door in soffit for sanitary sewer cleanout.
Mark floor at studs for easier drywall and furring strip insulation.
Fidelio velvet: http://www.bymichelle.com/fidelio.html
Theater intro: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1045823
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=715166
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1049435
Star ceiling:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=911313
Other painted option: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1048747
Before and after pics:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628588
How to take screen shots:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1024326
How to take pan shots from Duositex:
"In order for automerge in Photoshop to "do its thing" it needs the images to
overlap by 40%. Or at least that's what it kept telling me. Eventually I simply
pasted one image on top of the other and used the warp feature of CS4 (not sure
if this was in CS3 or not...) to correct for the perspective in each image. Once
they lined up ok (and I do mean ok.. its not great) I used the "Auto-Blend
Layers" feature which, I have to say, worked fantastically on the first try. If
I had more images to work with, it all probably would've come out better, but
I'm pleased overall considering it was just two.
Sorry for the verbose breakdown....
P.S. I did no color correction.. I leave that to the owner to decide since I
wasn't present when he took the pictures to know if they're at all accurate."
Video Calibration:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=737550
Audio Calibration:
software: http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/
Receiver has Audyssey, so will likely just use built-in software
Audyssey Calibration: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=795421
http://www.cepro.com/article/audyssey_shows_calibration_kit_for_installer_program/K29
FAQ: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14456895#post14456895
http://www.electronichouse.com/article/audyssey_dynamic_eq_and_dynamic_volume/D1/
Popcorn popper:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1063039
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14687615#post14687615
Audio sweep tones: http://www.dr-lex.be/software/testsounds.html
Steps to completion:
- Design room in AutoCAD (done);
- Notch existing furring strips on exterior wall (done);
- Install insulation in existing exterior walls and ceiling (done);
- Frame quasi staggered stud walls (done);
- Install back boxes for inwall speakers (sides and rears) (done);
- Install isolation clips and resilient channel in the ceiling (done);
- Frame soffit around existing utilities (done);
- Electric rough-in (contracted, done 5/25/09);
- Low-volt rough-in (almost done);
- Take thorough pictures of all wall and ceilings to document location of wires, cables, pipes, etc. (done 5/28/09);
- Seal boxes with putty pads (done 5/31/09);
- Install extra 2x2 blocking for drywall (done);
- Finish insulation installation (contracted, done 5/28/09);
- Hang doors (contracted, done 6/16/09);
- Install first layer of drywall on ceiling and walls (contracted, done 6/2/09);
- Install second layer of drywall ceiling and on walls placed horizontally using green glue and overlapping seems (contracted, done 6/2/09);
- Finish drywall (contracted, finished 6/10/09)
- Install screen wall with rolls of batte insulation behind it for bass traps and preconstruction brackets for LCR speakers and subs (contracted, done 7/2/09) ;
- Install false soffits (contracted, done 7/2/09);
- HVAC rough-in in theater (contracted, done 5/28/09);
- Install riser (contracted, done 7/2/09);
- Initial trimout of electric (contracted, done 7/3/09) and lv (done 7/3/09);
- Stuff false soffits with insulation for bass trapping (finished 7/29/09);
- Install stage (contracted, finished 8/1/09);
- Paint walls (contracted, finished 7/22/09);
- Have pad and carpet installed (contracted, done 7/31/09);
- Install threshold for doors' automatic bottom (did not need);
- Install fabric;
- Hardwood trim installation (crown, base molding) (contracted, base molding finished 7/18/09, crown finished 8/31/09);
- Final trimout (finished 8/29/09);
- Install seats (installed 8/1/09);
- Install screen, projector and speakers (finished 7/31/09);
- Program control system (GUI by 39 Cent Stamp finished 6/21/09, programming finished 4/18/11);
- Trimout rack;
- Install sound treatments (fabric wall panels);
- Install star ceiling (future);
- Enjoy (underway starting 7/31/09)!
Along with some other theaters here, my theater was in the Electronics House's Best DIY Theater issue:
http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...y_projects/diy
It was also in the January/February 2011 Electronic House:
http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...ghts_bat_cave/
I now have both of these articles framed and hung.
Here's the guy who did the GUI for my touchpanel- he's a great guy and I highly recommend him if you need any GUI work done:
http://guijaboard.com/wp/?p=108
I'd appreciate any comments or help!
Thanks!!
CJ