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Regular incandescent ropelight seems to be the best if you want actual "Rope" (Round / low intensity). LED rope tend to be problematic as it can be more directional and has to be positioned carefully in some cases. Likewise the cutting distance on the 120v/LED versions can be troublesome to work with.

If you want LED I would recommend any of the LED tapes / flexible strips. I occasionally have blue tapes, but if you want a color you may also want to consider the RGB (color changing)variation. You can use single color RED / BLUE / GREEN with just simple switching, or buy a controller and get some fancy blends, fades, or just about any color.
I see that you are a reseller/dealer of these items. If the waters ever part just right for me...I will get with you on exactly what I am wanting to do then you can tell me what I need and get me a price up for the materials if that sounds good to you?
 

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I see that you are a reseller/dealer of these items. If the waters ever part just right for me...I will get with you on exactly what I am wanting to do then you can tell me what I need and get me a price up for the materials if that sounds good to you?
Yes, but I'm on AVS mostly to support the RadioRa2 and Grafik Eye QS inquiries. Please contact me directly(quickest) or by IM here. Thanks, paul(at)hankselectric(dot)net.
 

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Can anyone confirm what the definition of "mixing loads" is regards to the Grafik Eye QS?

I have read a few times of discussion on this thread that you should not mix load types.

Are you guys saying that you should not say have Zone 1 be setup on the Grafik Eye as "Incandescent", and then Zone 2 be "LED".

When you are saying "not to mix load types" are you saying that the above example should not be done.

I plan on having multiple zones and some will be Incandescent and others will be LED.
 

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Can anyone confirm what the definition of "mixing loads" is regards to the Grafik Eye QS?
The intent is not to mix different load types on a single zone, and mainly LED, MLV, and ELV. [Keeping in mind that LED can sometimes be a LED, MLV (dimmable tapes) or ELV(some repl. lamps and retro kits)].

Typically you can mix incandescent with MLV and/or ELV without issue & sometimes you need to, to bring the load to a minimum wattage. But you would set the load type to MLV or ELV depending on what it is.

Each Zone needs to be set for it's load type and if it's defined in the setup you can just select it, if it's ELV* or 0-10v, some fluorescent or beyond it's single zone wattage limit (800) then you need some sort of interface.

*Some types of ELV will work fine on Incandescent setting, check with the light fixture manufacturer.
 

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Are these lights (see link below) considered "low voltage" and therefore would require a "ELVI Interface" to work with the Grafik Eye?
The lamp in this is a GU10, 120v Halogen typically, it is definitely not low voltage. There is no transformer or driver in this fixture.

Set your Grafik Eye for Incandescent.

Note: These type of fixtures are nice because they are small and inexpensive, but the GU10 based lamp is know to have poor life (frequent lamp changes) and more so in a smaller fixture where there is more heat build up. If you plan on using this, there are some great LED lamps out there for replacement which it great for lamps life, but may require a different setting and/or interface on the Grafik Eye.

Unfortunately you would have to test yourself if you decide to go LED/GU10/MR16 on this. From my experience the Grafik Eye is fairly forgiving of these types of LED, you do have to watch the minimum wattage (20-25w) and expect to have to trim or avoid the bottom end dimming(lowest dimming settings).
 

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The lamp in this is a GU10, 120v Halogen typically, it is definitely not low voltage. There is no transformer or driver in this fixture.

Set your Grafik Eye for Incandescent.

Note: These type of fixtures are nice because they are small and inexpensive, but the GU10 based lamp is know to have poor life (frequent lamp changes) and more so in a smaller fixture where there is more heat build up. If you plan on using this, there are some great LED lamps out there for replacement which it great for lamps life, but may require a different setting and/or interface on the Grafik Eye.

Unfortunately you would have to test yourself if you decide to go LED/GU10/MR16 on this. From my experience the Grafik Eye is fairly forgiving of these types of LED, you do have to watch the minimum wattage (20-25w) and expect to have to trim or avoid the bottom end dimming(lowest dimming settings).
Thanks.
I plan on buying these LED lamps and replacing them with the lamps that come in the box.
Will these LED lamps be dimmable and should I then change the Grafik Eye "type" to "LED" instead of "Incandescent"?

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/111204/SUNSUN-XMR16GU10730.html
 

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Thanks.
I plan on buying these LED lamps and replacing them with the lamps that come in the box.
Will these LED lamps be dimmable and should I then change the Grafik Eye "type" to "LED" instead of "Incandescent"?

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/111204/SUNSUN-XMR16GU10730.html
You'll have to contact them. Typically they say explicitly that they are dimmable if they are. (& usually a little more expensive if they are dimmable).

TCP is a favorable brand and not that much more, do a search for "dimmable GU10 LED"
https://www.google.com/search?q=dimmable+LED+GU10&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=dimmable+LED+GU10&tbm=shop
 

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I have a two year old 3106 GE which has worked flawlessly with one exception........my steplight zone.

Original steplight install, electrician used non dimmable LED's which I was never happy with. On turning off system, steplights would pump light and eventually trickle to nothing or an extremely faint light pulse. Two weeks ago install replacement LED's which I thought were dimmable but evidently not........same light pumping but worst! Finally gave up notion of LED's, ordered two 7 watt incandecent steplights which worked great.......dimmable with proper lighting intensity. About 20 minutes after watching a movie......GE tripped breaker........went to sub-panel and couldn't get breaker to work.

This morning, pulled all steplights out..........checked for shorts or loose wires.......re-tightend nuts.......went to sub-panel, flipped breaker........worked.

I'm thinking A) loose wire in steplight/s B) load on GE with steplight zone was too low. c) Protection circuit was tripped due heat, load or whatever


Any thoughts? GE has been rock solid up until my antics with these darn steplights! HELP PLEASE! :D
 

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Isn't there a 40 watt (or was it 25 watt) minimum load per zone? Might have something to do with it???
That could be the case......

Have bulbs burning at full tilt, with resistance in wiring suspect close to required 25 watts. When GE tripped breaker, two step lights were at lowest level possible.
 

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I would refute this. I've had Grafik Eyes for almost 20 years, including 7 in my current home. I have a 6 zone GRX-3106 in my kitchen and one of the zones is a single light above the sink. It is a 50w bulb with GU10 base, but I can assure you it can be dimmed to the lowest minimum level (i.e the first click up from 'off') where the filament is barely burning. I guarantee it is using far less than 25 watts.

All LED drivers and loads are different, so I'd suggest trying it out IF you are starting with an LED fixture that's marked dimmable in the first place.
 

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The minimum load is what Lutron specs, so maybe it's a case of potential oddball issues, depending on bulb type, cropping
up.

A decade ago, I had issues with just two riser lights on a zone, but it's never been a problem with two 50 watt PAR20 4"spots, on
a single zone. I simply added two more lights to the riser zone, by "extending" that zone into the furnace room. Dimming worked
properly, problem solved. :)

How hard would it be, to add a couple of temporary fixtures to the problematic zone? That would rule out a problem with the GE,
versus load issues.


I wouldn't compare halogen to an LED. A single halogen is likely throwing off wattage in heat, then what several LED's consume.


I do know some people are having success with LED's though, but some aren't.
 

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There are 37 incremental dimming steps for each Grafik Eye zone. I'm well aware of the Grafik Eye specs (I'm actually Homeworks / Lutron certified and have designed many different lighting systems for up to 30,000 sq. ft. private residences), but I'm also telling you that one 50w halogen at the first step turns on, holds steady and has no ill effect on the Grafik Eye. If I was more motivated, I'd pull out the Grafik Eye and measure the output voltage going to this fixture.

If you don't have the capacity to add lights, you can add small in-line resistors. In the case of LED, use the 25 watt resistor in a metal box somewhere inconspicuous, if needed. All LED drivers are different in the way they dim and each has to be independently certified to be compatible with a particular dimming switch, including the Grafik Eye. Without knowing precisely the specifications of these lights, you're left with experimentation to see if it works reliably.
 

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I have a two year old 3106 GE which has worked flawlessly with one exception........my steplight zone.

Original steplight install, electrician used non dimmable LED's which I was never happy with. On turning off system, steplights would pump light and eventually trickle to nothing or an extremely faint light pulse. Two weeks ago install replacement LED's which I thought were dimmable but evidently not........same light pumping but worst! Finally gave up notion of LED's, ordered two 7 watt incandecent steplights which worked great.......dimmable with proper lighting intensity. About 20 minutes after watching a movie......GE tripped breaker........went to sub-panel and couldn't get breaker to work.

This morning, pulled all steplights out..........checked for shorts or loose wires.......re-tightend nuts.......went to sub-panel, flipped breaker........worked.

I'm thinking A) loose wire in steplight/s B) load on GE with steplight zone was too low. c) Protection circuit was tripped due heat, load or whatever


Any thoughts? GE has been rock solid up until my antics with these darn steplights! HELP PLEASE! :D
I would have to guess there was a short, and you're really lucky you didn't kill you GE. Anything less than a short wouldn't have caused the breaker to trip. Some of those incandescent type step light have very exposed terminals and it would be easy and likely a ground wire would come in contact.

If you had a min. load issue (which you also likely have) the zone would flash, not go on at all, or stay on and not go off. The GE s really forgiving of the min. load, especially with incandescent loads, but any ballast(CFL) or driver(LED) driven load you should look out for. The GE will usually die before tripping a breaker, depending on how the fault happens.
 

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Some one mentioned a few posts back about controlling some Ropelight on DFDU receptacle connected to a GE. Let me just add my 2 cents..

It has been always frowned upon to control receptacles from dimmers. Previous to the DFDU I coudn't tell you haw many GE units we would sell for replacement when a cleaning crew would unplug a lamp to use it for a vacuum.

That being said the DFDU has a pronounced bump on it so you cannot effectively plug a regular plug into it and you have to purchase separately the RPU male plug end to replace that on the lamp (or ropelight) you want to control.

If you know, no one will ever mess with it, this is safe. However, if there is any potential for the location of the receptacle to be used for anything else I would strongly encourage to consider a different connection technique.

The RPU, HFDU (Half-hot or Half Dimmed) & DFDU (Duplex Dimmed, separable)

 
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