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Prepaid Engraving Certificate Question

I installed a Grafik Eye QS in my theater (QSGRJ-6P-WH) and have been using it for a while and I'm finally comfortable with the scenes I have set up and I'm ready to finalize them by getting the buttons engraved. The unit I bought was white with a grey stripe and I wanted black so I have already painted the face plate (upper and lower) satin black and then I was just planning to use the enclosed prepaid engraving certificate to get the buttons engraved in a black color to match.

I guess I didn't read the certificate before that well, but it says "Redeemable for one button/faceplate kit".

When I go to the lutron website for the engraving forms (http://www.lutron.com/en-us/Service-Support/Pages/Technical/EngravingSheets.aspx), there are two forms, one for a button kit and one for a faceplate kit including the button kit.

Does this certificate really get me one or the other? In other words, can i order the faceplate kit, say in a metallic color, with the black buttons, with my certficate? My impression was that it only got me buttons, not any faceplate I wanted.

Also, I noted that the form for the buttons only asks for the certificate number while the faceplate kit does not...not sure what that means.

Any advice from those that have ordered their engravings?

Thanks
-Bob
 

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Does this certificate really get me one or the other? In other words, can i order the faceplate kit, say in a metallic color, with the black buttons, with my certficate? My impression was that it only got me buttons, not any faceplate I wanted.

....I would call Lutron and ask how do I get both. Their customer service is quite good.
 

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....Any advice from those that have ordered their engravings?

Thanks
-Bob
The "prepaid engraving" is button(s*) only for the Grafik Eye. You can purchase a new faceplate only as part number QSGFP-(color code) It will include a blank matching set of buttons. The faceplate only does not come with engraving. Only the main or complete unit.
Replacement engraving can also be purchased.
(* multiple button kits if with shading zones)

The "Stripe" was supposed to be a configurable color / replacement item but I've never seen it as such. You can specify in a custom engraved replacement cover (paid) the "Stripe" color. But other wise it matches the base color in a "T" translucent version or has a contrasting (unspecified) color in an matching cover.

Use the Grafik Eye Design tool to preview your options:

https://grafikqsdesigntool.lutron.com/
 

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I have a Graphic Eye in my HT. I've used 9 Phillips Par 20 50 watt halogen floods for years.

I've slowly converting my home over to LED lamps, I've been using G7 spots for my Par 20 cans.

Yesterday I tried the G7 LEDs in my HT and noticed that the LEDs do not dim down as low as the halogen lamps.

Does anyone have any experience with LED Par 20s that will dim down as low as the Halogens? Or do I need to change something with my Graphic Eye for the LEDs?

Many thank for any help!
 

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Does anyone have any experience with LED Par 20s that will dime down as low as the Halogens? Or do I need to change something with my Graphic Eye for the LEDs?

Many thank for any help!
Can't be done. This is my big complaint with the current state of LED technology that works with existing incandescent dimmers. There is a minimum amount of power required to turn the LED lights on. Because of LED's efficiency, you tend to get 20-30% of the total lumen output at this minimum setting.

I've found only completely dedicated LED systems (bulbs, controllers, etc.) to have the capability of dimming down to the lowest levels.
 

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Thx for the reply. I've been stumbling around the Lutron site they show a Philips Par 20 that they say can be dimmed to 3%. That's probably as good as it gets for now, although I wonder if it will buzz at 3%??

I might buy one and check it out, if I do I'll report back here.
 

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Thx for the reply. I've been stumbling around the Lutron site they show a Philips Par 20 that they say can be dimmed to 3%. That's probably as good as it gets for now, although I wonder if it will buzz at 3%??

I might buy one and check it out, if I do I'll report back here.
Unfortunately there is no consistency in the LED dimming rage between manufacturers or even different model lamps in the same brand. To get real low end dimming you may want to stick to Halogen or incandescent for now. You might also try some of the newer "Warm-Dim" lamps stating to show in the market now. These LED's actually have multiple color chips and dim to a warmer tone, this help get closer to that low end...

Also, be weary of the numbers games on dimming LED some only go to 10-15%, which sounds OK, maybe for the kitchen, but most of the noticeable (perceived) range starts at 20% and low end dimming closer to 5% see here: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/Measured_vs_Perceived.pdf

Lutron has done some of the most extensive testing so take a look at their results when shopping for lamps and if you need them to dim well & low you can skip the cheapest of the bunch.... http://www.lutron.com/LED
 
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Wow, thanks Paul/Spiwrx.

I LOVE my 3106 Graphic Eye, BTW.

Yes, I thought converting my cans in the HT would be as simple as it was in my kitchen -- wrong. The first time I did a complete fade slow dim, the LED bulbs got to about 24% then stayed there until they went off. Yikes!!

Thank you for the comments and info. I'll just keep my eye on LED technology.

-- Quick Question please. Can I get something to allow me to turn off the lights leading into my HT with my 3106 Graphic eye, or maybe with my iPhone?? Maybe some type of remote, and switch replacement?
 

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Quick Question please. Can I get something to allow me to turn off the lights leading into my HT with my 3106 Graphic eye, or maybe with my iPhone?? Maybe some type of remote, and switch replacement?
You can get a NTGRX scene selector accessory wall switch or a SeeTouch scene selector accessory keypad. For iPhone control you'll need a Lutron RS-232 or IP interface and an automation system to issue the commands.

I always remotely locate the Grafik Eye for home theaters and use accessory controls for the entry switch. Control through an automation system or smart device is just a bonus because you NEED a hard switch of some sort at the entry to meet code requirements.
 

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Can anyone clarify if a Cat5 cable can be used to connect a IR Receiver Blaster to a Grafik Eye QS IR Ouput?
I know that Cat 5 is 4 pairs of twisted wires, but can I use "two" 2) of the twisted pairs to connect to the Grafik Eye QS IR Output "IR Com" and "IR Data".

In other words, one of the twisted pair can go into "IR Com" and the one other twisted pair can go to "IR Data"??? :confused:
Were you able to find an answer to your question? Were you able to successfully splice the IR blaster cable and control it through GC?
 

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Wow, thanks Paul/Spiwrx.

I LOVE my 3106 Graphic Eye, BTW.

Yes, I thought converting my cans in the HT would be as simple as it was in my kitchen -- wrong. The first time I did a complete fade slow dim, the LED bulbs got to about 24% then stayed there until they went off. Yikes!!

Thank you for the comments and info. I'll just keep my eye on LED technology.

-- Quick Question please. Can I get something to allow me to turn off the lights leading into my HT with my 3106 Graphic eye, or maybe with my iPhone?? Maybe some type of remote, and switch replacement?
PM sent.
 

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Is there a way, or perhaps a newer version of the Graphic Eye that I can control the lights in my HT, and select my pre-programmed scenes from an iPhone??

I'm getting to the point where most of my theater's things can be handled by my iPhone, but not my Graphic eye...

TIA
 

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Is there a way, or perhaps a newer version of the Graphic Eye that I can control the lights in my HT, and select my pre-programmed scenes from an iPhone??

I'm getting to the point where most of my theater's things can be handled by my iPhone, but not my Graphic eye...

TIA
Which Grafik Eye model do you have? The QS models are RadioRA2 capable, which means you get all of the controls available on RadioRA2, which includes the Lutron mobile app...

If you have something else, you can interface via IR/RS232/Ethernet (again depending on model and wiring available, but I use IR fed from a Global Cache GC-100) and use a remote app like iRule. That's what I'm doing in my theater. Even though I have RadioRA2 throughout the house, the GE in the theater is separate and controlled via iRule.

Jeff
 

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Is there a way, or perhaps a newer version of the Graphic Eye that I can control the lights in my HT, and select my pre-programmed scenes from an iPhone??
You could do that with with a Harmony Hub and the phone app in a couple ways. The normal way would be tapping devices on the main screen then tapping the Lutron controller for a listing of commands. There are multiple pages of them in the build in database so I'd recommend programming the codes manually with a Lutron remote to avoid four pages of command clutter. The other way would be setting each scene to an activity. You'd have to tap back after starting the activity to select another one though.

I recently picked up the new Harmony Elite remote which has 6 lighting/home automation buttons at the bottom that I programmed to control my Lutron 3506. It seems to be able to reliably control my Grafik Eye and masking system. The hubs bluetooth pairing to the HTPC is also less laggy than IR control from it.

In regards to low dimming LED lighting, a few months ago tried out Philip's $20 Hue Lux bulbs as part of a Hue system. CNET found them to dim to .5% or 4~ lumens but that was still too a bit too much for me in a blacked out room. A couple behind me might have worked for casual TV viewing but that's it. Also, since smart bulbs are individually addressed, they don't all turn on or dim at the exact same time like the Grafik Eye.
 

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Is there a way, or perhaps a newer version of the Graphic Eye that I can control the lights in my HT, and select my pre-programmed scenes from an iPhone??

I'm getting to the point where most of my theater's things can be handled by my iPhone, but not my Graphic eye...

TIA
The only simple way is really through 3rd party IR piece that will allow iPhone control or replace everything to the QS version with RR2 Main Repeater.
 

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So the newer QS version can accept signals from the iPhone, but they must first go through another piece of equipment, the RR2 main repeater??
 

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So the newer QS version can accept signals from the iPhone, but they must first go through another piece of equipment, the RR2 main repeater??
Better explained as: Set up a basic RadioRA2 system with a RadioRA2 Main Repeater and a Grafik Eye QS (which looks like six dimmers and a keypad to the system). Since RadioRA2 has a mobile app, you get that control method included...

Note that to get the configuration software for RadioRA2, you'll have to go through the (free) online training courses. Which may be more work than you want for just this solution. But you might find value in RA2 for the rest of the house... :D
 

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Got a quick question for you guys I'm looking at the grafik eye gbo 3103 -t-wh but not to familiar with the grafik eye. This is going in a dedicated theater. Just have a few questions is the the same as the 3103 grx exception for being able to use the bang & Olufsen remote. Other question is how many zones do you guys usually use for your theaters
 

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Got a quick question for you guys I'm looking at the grafik eye gbo 3103 -t-wh but not to familiar with the grafik eye. This is going in a dedicated theater. Just have a few questions is the the same as the 3103 grx exception for being able to use the bang & Olufsen remote. Other question is how many zones do you guys usually use for your theaters
They are the same thing with the exception of the remote commands as you noted:

Lutron Grafik Eye GBO-3100 controller for Bang & Olufsen incorporates B&O IR control interface, otherwise it works as the standard Lutron Grafik Eye GRX-3100 series.
The number of zones depends on the size of your room and how snazzy you'd like to get with the lighting design. I've always used a 6 zone Grafik Eye. At a minimum you would have general downlighting (recessed cans), wall washers around the perimeter (and/or sconces) and many like to wash the screen with light using recessed cans. That would be your three zones right there. If you had a riser you would probably want step lighting.
 
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