AVS Forum banner

541 - 560 of 1870 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Okay, then I will give it a shot with one port plugged. So many models have come out since my build with latest giving best of both the world( high & low). Just wanted to see if I can lower the tune ( not saying they are not enough how they are now) as I have two of them and should compliment in any loss of spl. Another thing I have noticed it if I ran them hot like 10db over reference I have preferred cascading crossover. They are sitting very close to me like 3ft so 100-80hz cascading works well ( lpf + crossover in minidsp). Above them I can still hear ringing.


I’ll be home in an hour or so. I’ll post the model then.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
No, the UM shows a very peaky response at port and qw tune. The dev variants work much better with pro drivers in general.

Juju is running a HO driver in a mini. Its much better than the UM, but still peaky.

Chris
This is correct.... the 460HO works well in the Mini.... BUT, you MUST chop off that peak around 60Hz-ish or the top end starts to sound funky.... not in a good way...


Juju
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
SOMEBODY decided to run to the plywood store this afternoon ... seems that I ended up with 9 sheets of BB (5x5) on the trailer. Well, I couldn't just leave all of that wood sitting on the trailer, so I HACKED IT UP!

I cut all of the panels for (2) QuadJBLDevs, although I still have the braces and thin pieces left to cut. That takes care of 6 sheets. The others are for a couple of boxes for the HE-15s with 2xSLAPSM-12 each. I plan on reorienting my theater as I have mentioned before. When I built the house 20 yrs ago, home theaters were rather unusual. We had built one in 1996 in a 'finished room over garage' in our previous home, the size was 17x22'. It worked quite well running it in 'wide format' so we could sit 6 across. I used the same dimensions (but lost about 8" when the plans were actually drawn as I didn't specifically say NOT to). Anyway, it is time to swing it to 'long & narrow' for 2 rows of seating, and to have more room to spread surround channels. My plan is to move the screen out from the wall (I did this at my mountain place) to allow 2 subs up front and not crowd the front soundstage.

Anyway, before I start rambling I just wanted to report that the developmental work on the QuadJBL was well worth it. I haven't heard anyone else going that direction yet, so I shall go forward!

Were I starting from scratch, with no subs, I think I would start with a pair of the LFE Devs, the numbers on those are staggering.

Sinbosen assures me that they are still operational and shipping product, so in keeping with the budget JBL approach, a clone amp seems the perfect fit. It is hard to argue with the FP22000q for under $1k shipped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Hey @a77cj7, @Red Five - I have a question. How much would I loose if I run my Dev V1 Design with lavoce21 with one port plug at 1000 watt. Can you please post sim with it, not sure if it has been posted before.

1000w input
Ports open, 18.8hz tune.
20hz, 2nd order HPF


1 port plugged, 15.7hz tune
15hz, 3rd order HPF
Port velocity 31m/s



Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,981 Posts
Thanks Chris, looks like port velocity will be a problem as I sit close to them


Give it a shot and see. It might be noticeable, it might not. I doubt you’ll hear much at that velocity.

Just takes a few towels and a quick dsp program to try it.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
I am very fond of this Mini 18" Devastator version. The design is meant to be used with a 18TBW100-4 and an NX3000. One channel of the NX is perfect for driving one of these :) Sim is running 1100 watts with a BW 19Hz 2nd HPF. The tune on the box comes out to 17Hz. Two of them can get eye to eye with an LFE :)



Can I build this one with a SAN184.03 ? 2x of these on an NX6000 then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #550 (Edited)
Can I build this one with a SAN184.03 ? 2x of these on an NX6000 then.
The SAN has a looser suspension, the SAF would do better, but if you have SAN already I would go it. The NX6000 is good for power, I would set the limiter to 1100 watts depending on the sub used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #551
Okay, then I will give it a shot with one port plugged. So many models have come out since my build with latest giving best of both the world( high & low). Just wanted to see if I can lower the tune ( not saying they are not enough how they are now) as I have two of them and should compliment in any loss of spl. Another thing I have noticed it if I ran them hot like 10db over reference I have preferred cascading crossover. They are sitting very close to me like 3ft so 100-80hz cascading works well ( lpf + crossover in minidsp). Above them I can still hear ringing.

You could try adding a pillow to the rear chamber, that seems to help with the ringing. The V1 has a long enough chamber for standing waves to become noticeable issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #552
Anyone interested in a slim 18" Devastator with a 17Hz tune?


 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #553
@Audiophile75 Dual JBL DEV concept 600 watts pushing 15 mm of excursion 17Hz tune. 1.8 Ohms subs in parallel.


 

Attachments

·
Registered
Yamaha RXa2060 - HTM12 / Pa460 3way LCR - Volt10s atmos - HT8s rears - (4) Dual JBL Devs - (2) F20s
Joined
·
430 Posts
@Audiophile75 Dual JBL DEV concept 600 watts pushing 15 mm of excursion 17Hz tune. 1.8 Ohms subs in parallel.




Oh this is pretty. I’m not sure it meets my needs although it’s in the ballpark.
You see, these four will go behind a new screen wall and right now it’s 12 inches from the wall which means my atmos speakers are still in a good position. If I add another 8-10 inches my atmos will not work so well. This is why I need NARROW and all other dimensions don’t matter (as long as I can stack two in a 8ft ceiling room).
The other issue is that my pa460 Devs in the back of my room (tuned to 20hz) are more capable as a lfe sub. I guess I would have to ask.... should I stay the 20hz on the dual to let them all play well or if I go lower will I ruin my LFE? I don’t care about lower (per say) because my room is all concrete and that will be a different build all together,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #555
Oh this is pretty. I’m not sure it meets my needs although it’s in the ballpark.
You see, these four will go behind a new screen wall and right now it’s 12 inches from the wall which means my atmos speakers are still in a good position. If I add another 8-10 inches my atmos will not work so well. This is why I need NARROW and all other dimensions don’t matter (as long as I can stack two in a 8ft ceiling room).
The other issue is that my pa460 Devs in the back of my room (tuned to 20hz) are more capable as a lfe sub. I guess I would have to ask.... should I stay the 20hz on the dual to let them all play well or if I go lower will I ruin my LFE? I don’t care about lower (per say) because my room is all concrete and that will be a different build all together,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
The SAN has a looser suspension, the SAF would do better, but if you have SAN already I would go it. The NX6000 is good for power, I would set the limiter to 1100 watts depending on the sub used.
SAF is nowhere available here, no indicated leadtime either. SAN is available for half the price of a 21DS115, so I'm thinking of building 2x Mini 18" and then maybe adding a 3rd or a 4th if needed for the same price as 2x 21" and probably much more output. But most probably 2x 18" is already overkill for my small space, so then I save some money for other stuff.

Is it possible to run 3 or 4 subs from a NX6000 ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Discussion Starter #558
SAF is nowhere available here, no indicated leadtime either. SAN is available for half the price of a 21DS115, so I'm thinking of building 2x Mini 18" and then maybe adding a 3rd or a 4th if needed for the same price as 2x 21" and probably much more output. But most probably 2x 18" is already overkill for my small space, so then I save some money for other stuff.

Is it possible to run 3 or 4 subs from a NX6000 ?

I am running two SAN off my 3000 in a large room, they are not disappointing. The Mini V3 will have the advantage over the Mini V1. 1000 watts with the SAN184.03 looks like it pushes very close to 2/3 gap with a 17Hz 3rd order HPF active. You could run 4 off of a 6000, time alignment could be a little more tricky with two subs running in parallel on each channel.



.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
If you could pick the box size for two subs to fit there what would it be? 48x30x30 would be some beefy boxes! Edit: if you want to push power on the 21"s the vent gets large fast. That gets rid of the 40" box height since the vent needs to get longer to keep the tune down and the shorter boxes runs out of vent path faster, unless you go deep....
I'm looking at a few variables. I am going to build an acoustically transparent screen and new speakers (including subs). Depending on how far the screen will be from the wall, its size will vary, changing how much room there is on either side. One one hand, moving it farther from the wall means I have more room to the sides (or even behind, once I'm to the ~24" mark), but it also reduces the viewing distance and increases the viewing angle for anyone not sitting in the middle (closer, narrower screen...).

The picture in my earlier post showed the screen ~1' from the wall, using 10" deep HTM-12s for LCR. There are some unlabelled lines for angles for speaker placement. 30 degrees is pretty much right against the side of the screen, so in the picture I've placed the right speaker on top of the sub. If the sub is short enough (or narrow, if it's on its side), the speaker's tweeter is around 3' from the ground; otherwise, I can turn the speaker upside down, and have the tweeter 4-6" from the top of the sub (still shooting for 3' from the ground).

150" screen: 30x18-21x72, speakers flipped: 30x30x72
135" screen: 36x18-21x72, speakers flipped: 36x30x72

In either orientation, (assuming one of the subs in the index) the sub is either on its side with its ports firing towards the center (and the other sub), or on its back firing up.

So much of this is in the variable range. For example, if I pull the left and right speakers in to 22.5 degrees, they could be behind the screen, and an upright, 30"-wide sub could fit on either side of the screen. But then I'd risk narrowing the front soundstage and increase the gap between the mains and the side surrounds.

There's also the possibility that I place an LFE sub in the rear-left corner, and cross it over pretty low, so it only provides the range that's definitely not going to be localizable. Then the front sub's performance in the < 30Hz range wouldn't be that critical, giving me more options.

Edit: Or I suck it up and pull the screen out 24-30", making room behind the screen for one of the shallower variants (what's the Omega like?), and perhaps still putting an LFE elsewhere in the room. Welcome to my analytical paralysis!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
[snip].....
Edit: Or I suck it up and pull the screen out 24-30", making room behind the screen for one of the shallower variants (what's the Omega like?), and perhaps still putting an LFE elsewhere in the room. Welcome to my analytical paralysis!
Definitely add the LFE 16Hz no matter what else you do... it is DEFINITELY worth it...


Juju
 
541 - 560 of 1870 Posts
Top