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What are some recommended driver/amp combinations for the LFE v2? I think I've seen it modeled for the NSW @ 2000W and the LaVoce @ 1500W.


Here’s the NSW on 2500w, for comparison with the plugged alpha.

16hz 3rd order HPF
Cone excursion at 25mm


Port velocity:


I like the curve better in the plugged alpha, but they’re pretty close.

Chris
 

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Just curious if this driver will work. Its a 15" Eminence I have collecting dust. Sure I could build a boring sealed or ported but these devastators look fun. Only problem is this driver is 8 Ohm so I would prefer to build to and wire in Parallel. If these won't work well, maybe another horn design. Requires less wattage than sealed.



Can always call it .... Devastator "Trash Compactor" :eek:



Rated RMS Power:600 Watts

Rated Max Power:1200 Watts

Impedance:8 Ohm

Sensitivity:89.5db 1w/1m

Frequency Response:20hz -250hz

Voice Coil:3"

Magnet:160oz. Ferrite

Overall Diamater:15.34"

Cutout Diameter14"

Mounting Depth7.75"

Weight:24lbs.





Re:5.10 Ohms

Le:2.85mH

Impedance:8 Ohm

Fs:25.6Hz

Qts:0.35

Qes:0.38

Qms6.04

Vas:125.2L (4.4cuft)

Bl:25.31

Sd:823.7 cm^2

Xmax:14.25mm


I’m replying over here to avoid cluttering that thread.
Anyway, here is that driver in the dev micro FR.

600w input power
20hz, 2nd order HPF
14mm cone excursion
Port velocity 23m/s



Chris
 

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The main post on it has the LaVoce modeled on 1000 and 2000w.

Devastator 21" LFE Version 2 HCR 48"x25.5"42" 16.5Hz tune (NSW capable)


I can model the nsw and see what port velocity does. How much power will you want to run?

Since its showing almost 20m/s with the lavoce on 1000w, it might get really stupid with the nsw and high power.
There were a couple of posts in the other thread (while under development, I think) showing the NSW at 2000W, but I don't know how much either of those line up with the final LFE v2 design:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/3032394-devastator-ltd02-hybrid-design-38.html#post59235320
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/3032394-devastator-ltd02-hybrid-design-38.html#post59239088

I'm probably not going to be running much higher than reference, so I might only need "not too bright" rather that full-on stupid. I guess there's also the question of integrated DSP versus separate. At the end of the day, if a less expensive driver/amp will do just as well as an expensive one for my use case...
 

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There were a couple of posts in the other thread (while under development, I think) showing the NSW at 2000W, but I don't know how much either of those line up with the final LFE v2 design:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/3032394-devastator-ltd02-hybrid-design-38.html#post59235320

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/3032394-devastator-ltd02-hybrid-design-38.html#post59239088



I'm probably not going to be running much higher than reference, so I might only need "not too bright" rather that full-on stupid. I guess there's also the question of integrated DSP versus separate. At the end of the day, if a less expensive driver/amp will do just as well as an expensive one for my use case...


Looks to me that the plugged alpha and the LFE v2 run very similar. I’d choose whichever fits your space better.

The LFE has a higher QW tune also. I’m not sure what other subs you will run. The LFE is better if its the only one though.

After that, let me know what driver and amp options you’re looking at and I can model it.

I posted the nsw 2500w model above. Not many amps can do that at 6ohm though.

Chris
 

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I posted the nsw 2500w model above. Not many amps can do that at 6ohm though.
What does the plugged Alpha look like with 2000W? The NX6000D could probably handle that (if I read its specs right).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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What does the plugged Alpha look like with 2000W? The NX6000D could probably handle that (if I read its specs right).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


The nx6000d is heavily overrated. The power supply won’t handle both channels running full power. I believe it is 1200w at 4 ohm.
A bridged 3000d is closer to 1600-1700w at 4ohm, not sure at 6ohm.

I’ll run the model in a bit.
EDIT: port velocity is 32m/s on 2000w.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #587
The nx6000d is heavily overrated. The power supply won’t handle both channels running full power. I believe it is 1200w at 4 ohm.
A bridged 3000d is closer to 1600-1700w at 4ohm, not sure at 6ohm.

I’ll run the model in a bit.
EDIT: port velocity is 32m/s on 2000w.

Chris
Try running a second order at a higher frequency, it helps with the velocity on the port. The left end needs some pushing down because it hooks and lulls a bit. The LFE could get the back trimmed down.
 

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Try running a second order at a higher frequency, it helps with the velocity on the port. The left end needs some pushing down because it hooks and lulls a bit. The LFE could get the back trimmed down.


I don’t like what it does to the response, but it does knock the velocity down a bit.
Still 2000w
18hz 2nd order HPF
28m/s port velocity


I like this much better, more what you were looking for?
2000w
17hz, 4th order HPF
28 m/s port velocity


To take it a bit farther.
2000w
18hz, 4th order hpf
24.5m/s port velocity


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #589
I don’t like what it does to the response, but it does knock the velocity down a bit.
Still 2000w
18hz 2nd order HPF
28m/s port velocity


I like this much better, more what you were looking for?
2000w
17hz, 4th order HPF
28 m/s port velocity


To take it a bit farther.
2000w
18hz, 4th order hpf
24.5m/s port velocity


Chris
I am thinking something between an LFE and a Dev, 48x25.5x36. With an HCR front you can get a lot of volume back there to work with.
 

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I am thinking something between an LFE and a Dev, 48x25.5x36. With an HCR front you can get a lot of volume back there to work with.


Lose port area in the process. Can go up the back for a larger port though. Might work.
Chris
 

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@Red Five I'm getting a pair of LaVoce 21s soon and would like to build a pair of Devastators for the front wall in my theater. They will be taking the place of my old Juggernog UM cabinets flanking the screen. The problem is the footprint. Is there any chance a 21 Devastator can be around 25"W, 25"D and under 8'? These will handle mostly mid bass duty as my 24s will be handling ULF.
 

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Discussion Starter #592
@Red Five I'm getting a pair of LaVoce 21s soon and would like to build a pair of Devastators for the front wall in my theater. They will be taking the place of my old Juggernog UM cabinets flanking the screen. The problem is the footprint. Is there any chance a 21 Devastator can be around 25"W, 25"D and under 8'? These will handle mostly mid bass duty as my 24s will be handling ULF.

Would 60x25.5x24 be close enough? It would not be a world beater for a BMD, but it should get a 17Hz or 18Hz tune and have a fair amount of displacement. For slamming midbass the Minis are best for that, but they need more displacement in width or depth unless you set them up as MBMs.
 

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Would 60x25.5x24 be close enough? It would not be a world beater for a BMD, but it should get a 17Hz or 18Hz tune and have a fair amount of displacement. For slamming midbass the Minis are best for that, but they need more displacement in width or depth unless you set them up as MBMs.
I'll take a look at the minis and see if they will fit. I am looking mostly for mid bass slam with this build.
 

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Discussion Starter #594
Lose port area in the process. Can go up the back for a larger port though. Might work.
Chris

6 inches off the back of the LFE does not appear to give up much of anything.


 

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Discussion Starter #595
I'll take a look at the minis and see if they will fit. I am looking mostly for mid bass slam with this build.

If you did a strict MBM in the Mini form factor it could do this. This is 2000 watts into the SAN with velocity sitting at 24m/s. The vent is pretty huge.


 

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If you did a strict MBM in the Mini form factor it could do this. This is 2000 watts into the SAN with velocity sitting at 24m/s. The vent is pretty huge.


If I had to go full MBM, this should fit fine, but I would like a little more low end extension. Maybe the low end roll off starting around 25-30Hz. Would making the cabinet taller do that? You'll have to excuse my ignorance in this area. I know a little less than nothing about these alignments.
 

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Discussion Starter #597
If I had to go full MBM, this should fit fine, but I would like a little more low end extension. Maybe the low end roll off starting around 25-30Hz. Would making the cabinet taller do that? You'll have to excuse my ignorance in this area. I know a little less than nothing about these alignments.

If I punch the height it will have lower peak/dome in the response, it would be more close to 70Hz. I can blow up velocity some and lower the tune to say in the form factor. Efficiency really picks up once you are a little above the Fs of the sub, in this case 30Hz. The extension would be worth it if you plan on running just the MBMs for music purposes. If you area always running the 24"s you will probably be crossing over between subs somewhere between 40Hz and 50Hz.
 

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If I had to go full MBM, this should fit fine, but I would like a little more low end extension. Maybe the low end roll off starting around 25-30Hz. Would making the cabinet taller do that? You'll have to excuse my ignorance in this area. I know a little less than nothing about these alignments.


The problem is keeping the qw length down for the higher tune, while having enough rear chamber area for the low extension.
@Red Five, this should be doable by extending the rear chamber above the qw. Stick with the mini-length qw, but in a tall cabinet. Won’t work with the calc sheet of course. It will also be a more interesting build, but @tarponater shouldn’t have issues.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #599 (Edited)
The problem is keeping the qw length down for the higher tune, while having enough rear chamber area for the low extension.
@Red Five , this should be doable by extending the rear chamber above the qw. Stick with the mini-length qw, but in a tall cabinet. Won’t work with the calc sheet of course. It will also be a more interesting build, but @tarponater shouldn’t have issues.

Chris

I have thought about doing that, I just cannot find an elegant bracing solution and then things get messy with the back panels, since the woofer is no longer on the top, you end up with three panels in the back. Edit: he could also run the 15"s like Jared did with his HSTs. Four of those even with PA 380's would put out a ton of midbass, but if you already have 21"s....
 

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I have thought about doing that, I just cannot find an elegant bracing solution and then things get messy with the back panels, since the woofer is no longer on the top, you end up with three panels in the back. Edit: he could also run the 15"s like Jared did with his HSTs. Four of those even with PA 380's would put out a ton of midbass, but if you already have 21"s....


I didn’t say it was easy or elegant, lol. Just that it will work for a tall, skinny mini.
You will end up with three rear panels, or just an offset hatch if the upward extension is short.

4 15’s will definitely have midbass, but I’m not sure about matching the low end of the 21’s.

Chris
 
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