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What are you guys using for installing Neutrik speakON connector to cabinet? I bought these (https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mpr-speakon-connector-4-pole-round-chassis-mount--092-054) from part express and not sure if they come with screws or not.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Coarse-Phillips-Phosphate/dp/B01M9E5WS8
And a 15/16" spade bit to drill the hole.

dvdfantastic said:
In addition which speaker gasket tape is best suited? I see that 3/8 size on parts express is out of stock. Any recommendations?
This works just fine: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-X-3-16-in-X-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882
 

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@Red Five, is there any possibility to have a Dev version that's no more than 34.8" high? My mains have Huge horn and if sub is any taller then that then the horns will get in the way. Depth is not an issue. I mean I can go far as 4 feet for depth. Width wise, 25" would be ideal.
 

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Thanks @smcmillan2. Can I use the same tape for driver and back hatch sealing? One last question, which screws will you recommend to mount NSW6021-6 in a baltic birch cabinet? Thanks!
 

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@Red Five , is there any possibility to have a Dev version that's no more than 34.8" high? My mains have Huge horn and if sub is any taller then that then the horns will get in the way. Depth is not an issue. I mean I can go far as 4 feet for depth. Width wise, 25" would be ideal.
So laying them on their side/back is not an option?


Juju
 

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Can I use the same tape for driver and back hatch sealing?
Should work just fine.

dvdfantastic said:
One last question, which screws will you recommend to mount NSW6021-6 in a baltic birch cabinet? Thanks!
I don't have any experience with the Eminence subwoofer drivers, but I use the same Rok Hardware screws in 1 - 1.25" length to mount my drivers. You may find that you have to go to a #10 or larger, depending on the size of the mounting holes. Any (whichever color you prefer) deep, coarse threaded screw you can source locally should work just fine.
 

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Should work just fine.



I don't have any experience with the Eminence subwoofer drivers, but I use the same Rok Hardware screws in 1 - 1.25" length to mount my drivers. You may find that you have to go to a #10 or larger, depending on the size of the mounting holes. Any (whichever color you prefer) deep, coarse threaded screw you can source locally should work just fine.
Much appreciated sir! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,168 (Edited)
@Red Five, is there any possibility to have a Dev version that's no more than 34.8" high? My mains have Huge horn and if sub is any taller then that then the horns will get in the way. Depth is not an issue. I mean I can go far as 4 feet for depth. Width wise, 25" would be ideal.
Some modifications can be done to something the size of a Finalizer, but what size of woofer are talking? I would make the QW shorter (40 odd inches) in a 4 foot deep box, that should get me a 43 inch port length. Then the QW would sit over that.
 

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Some modifications can be done to something the size of a Finalizer, but what size of woofer are talking? I would make the QW shorter (40 odd inches) in a 4 foot deep box, that should get me a 43 inch port length. Then the QW would sit over that.
21" is preferred but if it's not possible then I can go with 18" I haven't bought the drivers yet so I have options.
Thx


Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #1,171
21" is preferred but if it's not possible then I can go with 18" I haven't bought the drivers yet so I have options.
Thx


Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
The 21" will fit if I sandwich the resonators like that. The calculator is not going to work for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,172 (Edited)
@harrisu here is a quick concept look of the box. It would be close to having a Mini QW front section with more rear volume than a Finalizer.







 

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Discussion Starter #1,174
Thx. Since its 48" high, it'd have to be lied on its back to make it fit there. That might work.
Are you using Tapatalk? The images are not showing up in it.
 

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Assuming you’re talking about the nsw, you don’t need gasket tape for the driver. It has a built-in gasket. Most pro drivers do.

Chris
Thanks a77cj7. I was looking at some videos posted on YT related to GSG flat pack + same driver build and the person was using tape and wanted to be sure. :)
 

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Last night, i took a look at RedFive turotial on how to use Hornresp. I found it really usefull and very well done. Thank you RedFive, a big thumbs up to you :)
I used it to simulate the [email protected] with a 2nd order [email protected] in the Devastator Shallow and the BMD UltraShallow.
If my simulations are correct, it looks like the Shallow would give a little more punch in the midbass than the UltraShallow, and that's exactly what i'm after, specially for music.

I'm ready to do some modifications to my baffle wall in order to accomodate the additionnal 4'' depth of the Shallow.
I'm just wondering if it worth the trouble to modify the baffle wall to make place for the Shallows or i should stick with the BMD UltraShallows ?

;)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,178
Last night, i took a look at RedFive turotial on how to use Hornresp. I found it really usefull and very well done. Thank you RedFive, a big thumbs up to you :)
I used it to simulate the [email protected] with a 2nd order [email protected] in the Devastator Shallow and the BMD UltraShallow.
If my simulations are correct, it looks like the Shallow would give a little more punch in the midbass than the UltraShallow, and that's exactly what i'm after, specially for music.

I'm ready to do some modifications to my baffle wall in order to accomodate the additionnal 4'' depth of the Shallow.
I'm just wondering if it worth the trouble to modify the baffle wall to make place for the Shallows or i should stick with the BMD UltraShallows ?

;)

I would advocate for the Shallow versus the ultra shallow. The upgrade path on the ultra will be a SAF184.03 or a 18TBW100. Putting a manifold on the baffle wall of the shallow will not only work better on the 460, it gives you the option of dropping a SAN214.50, 21DS115 or a NSW6021 in the box later on. The difference from a 460 to a 21" will be the jump from a pedal car to high performance internal combustion...
 

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I would advocate for the Shallow versus the ultra shallow. The upgrade path on the ultra will be a SAF184.03 or a 18TBW100. Putting a manifold on the baffle wall of the shallow will not only work better on the 460, it gives you the option of dropping a SAN214.50, 21DS115 or a NSW6021 in the box later on. The difference from a 460 to a 21" will be the jump from a pedal car to high performance internal combustion...

So for now, the shallow seems to be the best option for my needs. And i love the upgrade path with the 21”.


Thanks !
 
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Discussion Starter #1,180 (Edited)
I am kicking around the idea for the Devastator 4000, something like this. Bracing and the access panel will be interesting.








 

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