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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have been looking at this wonderful site now for about four months to get ideas for my home theatre! Well its time now!! After getting the wifeys permission I decided to go ahead with my plan. I am a rookie with avs systems. I am not in no rush with getting this theatre done very quicky. I want it done right and time is not of the essence. Me and my father will be doing almost all of the work, he has the brains and knowledge for building this room and I have the strenth. I am looking at a 7.1 surround sound system with a 100 in fixed screen and projector. I will be using my PS3 and apple tv. I will have OTA antenna for the theatre room. The room will be used mostly for movies and sporting events. My ceiling is 8 ft and were the I beam and hvac it is 7 ft. I am looking to have my small av rack, fridge and in wall media storage built into the back wall by the utility room. I just ordered a bunch of wire & cables from Monoprice. Ordered my OTA antenna and amplified signal splitter. I will be placing my lumber order with Home Depot on Monday. I appreciate any feedback, please dont hesitate to tell me I am messing up something. I posted some pictures. Sorry they came out a little blurry I had to use my iphone camera because my oldest daughter took my camera with here to Chicago.




 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can one of you pros point me in the right direction for reciever and 7.1 surround sound with a budget of $1,000. I was looking at the Onkyo htib HT-S9100THX, but I cant imagine having theses huge speakers hanging on the walls since I am already cramped for space. Any Ideas??
 

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Hello and welcome. If you are looking for suggestions and opinions and help spending your hard earned money you have come to the right place. There are many more talented and experienced people here than I, and I hope they chime in, but I do have a couple of suggestions straight off.


First why have you already "settled" for a 100" image? My room is roughly 13.5 x 20 and I still have not decided for sure what image size I'm going to go with. This could be a good starting point but don't limit yourself. You just may find you could easily go 114"-120" depending on your preferences.


Second unless your using the HVAC/water heater room for storage I would make the room smaller to open up additional real estate for the theater and the media/storage area. Obviously you need to keep to code with clearances and such but you could really gain some extra space reducing the size of that room. Or you could consider flipping the room and the window would not be an issue, but you would have to rework the media storage area, but that should not be a big issue.


Good luck and hopefully someone smarter than I will chime in too.


Regards,


RTROSE


Oh...Regarding your pictures it is much easier to have them hosted by a site such as Photobucket or Flickr and then imbed the image here. Makes looking at photos much easier. It is pretty easy to do and someone here posted an easy "how to" I just can't find it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My first response thank you for commenting. I would love to go bigger but I was worried about that I beam and hvac duct work to the top left of my outline with two layers of drywall I would only be at 6'8 from floor to ceiling there. How big do you think I can go? I plan on blacking out the window covering it up with some type of plug that could be removed If I ever sell my house. I talked to an hvac buddy today and he said I need to leave 36 in for furnance and water heater. There is code that goes by btu some crazy math formula he tried telling me over the phone. I had another question about my riser by code floor to duct has to be at least 6'6, I was thinking about it and I guess I might have to do an offset riser to meat code.
 

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Welcome


I took the liberty of hosting your floor plan picture. Many people like to help out but find having to click for pictures a bit too much work.





You seem to have a wonderful space here. I especially like the room at the back for equipment. The size is nice, I would have loved an extra 2 feet of width in my theater!


With a riser, some people build it after the fact as a 'removable piece of furniture' to skirt the head height code a little. If you do a split one on both sides (ie, not touching the side walls, you should still be able to hold a couch and have easier assess to your equipment room. You may need to move the door forward so that it can swing with a riser.


With the furnace room being at your back wall (and for other reasons), you'll probably want to give some thought to sound isolation.


Edit: i guess RTROSE and I must be on the same wavelenght tonight (you just edited your post to add picture hosting
)



Greg
 

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You have to have a host for the picture. I set up a photobucket account. It's free and will host your pictures. Upload your picture as the large size (640 by 480 resolution). Once your pic is uploaded just place your mouse over the picture, a list of options will come up. Click on IMG code (at the bottom) then come to the post your writing and paste it in.


With a pocket door you have to worry a bit about vibration. I know others have done them, but it can be a problem with heavy bass. Perhaps someone will be able to chime in on how they damped the door?


Good Luck

Greg
 

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I personally think the window will be a bigger issue to contend with than the HVAC/I beam, but here again this is just my opinion.


I second the thought of building the riser as a "piece of furniture" it will give you a lot more flexibility in placement options. This is what I'm planning on doing as well.


Staffy in his build put in a pocket door you can see how he did it here. Clickie .


I'm trying to find the tutorial on hosting pictures for you. Someone will come to my rescue.


Regards,


RTROSE
 

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I've seen it mentioned before that a seating riser is not considered "the floor" for floor to ceiling calculations. Something to think about to conserve headroom is to put a mini riser just under the chair bases. If you do a 2-3 inch mini riser the overall riser can be that much shorter. The result is more headroom when standing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I figured out photobucket!! Thanks Scopeguy! Big Mouth I love your theatre Im so glad you decided to comment on my build. I called my city building inspector and they to me I must have 6'6 from ibeam hvac to floor no exceptions. How big of a screen do you guys think I can go? Big Mouth is a 2' or 3' riser high enough to see over the front row?? Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Aw! And I have the link of the how to. Oh well now at least I can find my own thread now and point others in that direction.


Regards,


RTROSE


BTW having Big on board is a great thing! He brings a lot to the table. Do yourself a favor and probe his knowledge he is WISE!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kansasrookie /forum/post/16890375


I called my city building inspector and they to me I must have 6'6 from ibeam hvac to floor no exceptions.


This would be why it's a piece of furniture installed after final inspection



You can use the riser height calculator at the top to determine an appropriate height for your room. You may have to move your screen a little higher.


Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hello, can someone please explain to me my hvac concerns with my home theatre? How big of a screen can I go with? I think I am almost certain that I am going with the Epson 6500ub. I am looking at a surround sound system with a budget of $1,000. At least 4 hdmi inputs and video upscalling is a must. Can you guys point me in the right direction?
 

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A 7.1 speaker/sub system AND receiver for $1000 is stretching things very tight.


You might get more responses in the speaker and receiver section of AVS.


Personally, if the budget is tight, then I would buy a quality entry level receiver (like the Onkyo 607 or 707), Pioneer SC5 or 7, etc and buy the front 2 left and right speakers and possibly a center. You can expand out from there.


Just make sure to do you wiring for your 5.1 or 7.1 and you can buy additional equipment as you go.


Likely, your timeline will be extended enough that you can up the budget...or more likely, you'll spend more on the room than you could have possibly guessed AND it will take longer.
 

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HVAC concerns: HTs generally generate a LOT of heat - lots of equipment, a projector, people, etc.


You need more than you typical amount of air circulation...especially if you are in a generally hot/humid area. I assume you are in Kansas so this likely will apply you to you.


You also have to think about ductwork and how sound travels in/along ducts to the rest of the house.


This is a complicated question and the answers are out there....start by looking at:


Start here: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/
 
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