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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Hello All.


Since I am well into construction and I sit her every evening reading everyone elses progress and because the guilt is setting in.... here is my thread to chronicle my progress.


First off let me say, THANKS TO EVERYONE. I started reading this forum just as a curiousity. I had already decided that I was a self proclaimed expert but after several hours of reading I realized........idiot. But I have learned tons and so it began...... :)

House HVAC
Preframing Pic 1
Preframing Pic 2
Preframing Pic 3
Preframing Pic 4
Preframing Pic 5




I will try to post as often as possible and the pictures will be coming soon.


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My HT will be in the basement. The dimensions are roughly 12'3" x 21'6" inside the theater itself. The center of the room will have 8.5' ceilings and around the sides a 21" wide by 11" tall sofit will cover existing HVAC, plumbing, wiring ect.




Here is the layout / design. This was done with Punch 3D software.

http://members.sparedollar.com/cable...aterdesign.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok now for a detail of the progress so far.


I spent many many nights speading DryLok paint on the walls as a just in case..


I moved my HVAC trunk line over 1' to shorten up the width of the sofit.


I ordered and have installed RISC and hat channel on the ceiling.

RISC-1 on the ceiling


I have finished the exterior wall framing of the theater, A/V - DVD room and bump in for the adjacent room's booth. (just finished this tonight!) I still have to frame in a storage closet and rack space inside of the A/V room.

Framing 1
Framing 2
Framing 3
Framing 4


I have started the frame work for the sofits. Man is that slow going!


Scott



And yes that is a Ping Pong table / work bench! :)
 

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Scott, Are you building your sofits after you drywall the ceiling? I plan to use the RISC clip also but I am not sure what comes first the sofit or the Ceiling.


Also, where did you find the hat channel? I spend this last weekend looking for it.


Thanks

William
 

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Scott, my basement looks similar to yours. Please keep posting the pictures as I will embark on my journey next month. I am curious to see how you are going to sound proof the room and HVAC. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportrac
Scott, Are you building your sofits after you drywall the ceiling? I plan to use the RISC clip also but I am not sure what comes first the sofit or the Ceiling.


Also, where did you find the hat channel? I spend this last weekend looking for it.


Thanks

William


I am framing the sofits pre-ceiling drywall. One because there is an 18x8 HVAC trunk line in the way rightnow and 2- the other side has 2 water pipes and will have (just easier to do mine this way. I divided the hat channel spans so that the start of a 4' wide peice of drywall would begin where the sofit meets the ceiling. I am attaching the frame work of the sofit to the hat channel with "L" brackets centered over onto 1/2 of the channel. (if that makes sence). Everones setup is different and codes as well.


I will post a picture of a close up later.



The hat channel was purchased at a drywall supply house. The sell metal studs, mud, tape, hat channel, acoustical caulking ect...



Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnyvali
I am curious to see how you are going to sound proof the room and HVAC.
2 walls are framed up beside concrete walls. One is next to a previously studded wall in the furnace room. The other one is adjoining to the pool table / bar area and this room is open to the stairs. The adjoining wall is stagger stud (2x6 sill and top, 2x4 studs) 24" on center, ofset 12" on the opposite side. The other walls are standard 16" OC 2x4.


The ceiling is RISC-1 and hat channel. The perimeter walls are affixed at the top onto RISC. The sill plates have Sill Seal foam and strike anchors.


All of the walls will have Integrity Gasket (just got it!) with a double 1/2" drywall with green glue in the middle (on both sides of the staggered stud wall). All seams caulked with acoustical caulking.


Safe N Sound doors (or equivilant).


R23 or R30 in all spaces.


The existing HVAC is not part of the new theater, so sound escape is not happening into the rest of the house. I am buying a mini-split and pulling 8" flex in the "false sofit for a future air exchanger.



More pics to come tonight.......



Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK tonight was clean up the mess night, so no real progress besides removing the clutter and the ping pong table / workbench. Here are the latest pics.

Major Framing Complete 1
Major Framing Complete 2
Major Framing Complete 3
Major Framing Complete 4
Major Framing Complete 5
Major Framing Complete 6


I still have to frame up the closet inside the A/V room and design and build the shelves / rack.

Major Framing Complete 7


Note the booth was moved into place...mostly to get it out of the way for now! :)


The following is some detail pics of the sofit assembly. Might not be done exactly like your supposed to do it, but this will work for my application. A lot of tedious work left to do on this part.

Sofit Detail 1
Sofit Detail 2
Sofit Detail 3
Sofit Detail Other Side


Thanks all for now.


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would like to have it finished within two years, but we'll see. Mostly the $$ is the hold up. I am trying to pay as I go. So every payday I buy some more materials and after I use them up... well most of the time its a week till the next payday.

(sometimes I cheat and charge it!)


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The fabric for the upper part of the wall, came today. It is awesome looking. Going to most likely use a dark brown for the lower.

Upper Wall Fabric
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport
I would like to have it finished within two years, but we'll see. Mostly the $$ is the hold up. I am trying to pay as I go. So every payday I buy some more materials and after I use them up... well most of the time its a week till the next payday.

(sometimes I cheat and charge it!)


Scott
Scott,


I hear you on the cash flow. That's what I'm trying to do (and yes, there is a little cheating here or there on the credit card, but I try to keep that to a minimum). As long as you keep moving forward a little bit at a time, you'll get there. I started the basement project last November. I expect the to be done around the end of the year for most construction items, but floors, cabinets and some equipment will put me into Spring 2006 and maybe even the summer.


Great job by the way!


Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by MnkyBiz
Scott!


Looks great buddy!


Lets just hope that this doesn't eat into your Bronco fund too much (Wink!).


Bill
HEHE the "Bronco" project hasn't been going for a couple of years. When we moved into our new house I parked it and its still awaiting a lot of TLC. BTW were or are you on the EBML?



Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did anyone hear the trumpets sounding???? :D


I think I just completed the wiring phase of my HT. Whew that was a nightmare. I am a stickler for details and the attemp to future proof the theater was giving me gray hair.


Anyway, I have progressed alot since the last post and have taken a lot of pictures but haven't uploaded them as of yet.


New pictures coming soon



Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, im on vacation this week and think its time to update the construction thread.


Here is a run down on the way I built and hung my light can boxes.


I bought new construction Halo light cans IC rated. These are the ones with the extendable rails on the sides. Next I removed the rails and flattened out the rail guides.


Next I measured the bottom part of the can (the rectangle part) and build boxes out of 5/8" MDF. I made sure that the top of the can had 2" of clearance to the inside of the box. Every joint was sealed with 100% silicone and screws (countersunk). Next I bought a few pieces of Hardi-Plank concrete siding. I cut pieces to line the boxes.


Hint, miter box saw...bad, hand held (battery powered) skill saw...good.. Dont know why, but the miter box did NOT like the Hardi-Plank.


The Hardi Plank was held in place with more 100% silione. This sealant has an operable range of up to 400 degrees, btw.


The next day all of the interior seams got more sealant.


I wanted to suspend my boxes from the hat channel /RSIC so after some thought, I bought some aluminum angle. Cut it to fit across the closest hat channels and measured the boxes. I made the bottom of the boxes to be level with the bottom of the hat channel, so that the drywall will touch the hat channel and the boxes. When I drywall the ceiling, I will be applying a liberal amount of sealant to the edges of the boxes to form an airtight seal with the HT.


The exit hole in the end on the box (for the electrical wiring) was also sealed with silicone.


One thing I found out the hard way was to NOT stuff a crap load of insulation in the 2" from the top of the cans to the floor above. This bowed the aluminum angle down and made the bottom of the boxes lower than the adjacent hat channel. oooppps. Well out of the six boxes, I have 4 done before I realized this. :)


Here are the pictures;

Here is a closeup of the box empty

Here is a whole box view

Cans installed 1

Cans installed 2


Cans installed 3



Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One thing that is / was very helpful for me was to draw on the floor. I drew and designed the placement of the columns well ahead of the wiring phase. I need to know exactly where the speaker and sconces and riser were going to be located.

http://members.sparedollar.com/cable...g-on-floor.jpg


And for those who see the column measurements and say, darn thats narrow. Yes it is. The columns are going to start at the ground at 4" x 18" and stay that way until about 5', then I will start stepping them out until the upper portion will be 8" deep to accomodate my M&K SS-150 surrounds and still save the walkway space from the column to the seats. I dont have the design really done in stone, just a basic idea.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport
Ok now for a detail of the progress so far.


I spent many many nights speading DryLok paint on the walls as a just in case..


I moved my HVAC trunk line over 1' to shorten up the width of the sofit.


I ordered and have installed RISC and hat channel on the ceiling.

RISC-1 on the ceiling


I have finished the exterior wall framing of the theater, A/V - DVD room and bump in for the adjacent room's booth. (just finished this tonight!) I still have to frame in a storage closet and rack space inside of the A/V room.

Framing 1
Framing 2
Framing 3
Framing 4


I have started the frame work for the sofits. Man is that slow going!


Scott



And yes that is a Ping Pong table / work bench! :)
Do you have a macro shot of how you installed RISC on your ceiling? I forgot to ask, why do we need to use RISC and what is it? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Heres some pictures with the Integrity Gasket matererial installed on the stud surfaces. It was very easy to install and for around $120 for enough to do the entire HT and 2 adjoining walls, not bad on the price. I noticed that this "gasket" does not compress much after the drywall is screwed to the wall. Although it wont help with the low stuff, it should help a little with the mid and high frequencies.

Integrity Gasket installed 1

Integrity Gasket installed 2

Integrity Gasket installed 3

Integrity Gasket installed 4
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by v1rtu0s1ty
Do you have a macro shot of how you installed RISC on your ceiling?
What exactly would you like to see?


Scott
 
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