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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The Lion's Lair

Background:
We built this home in 2017, the thought going in was to have a clean slate for a basement where I could design it and have it how I wanted it. I had a goal in mind to have a home theater, home gym, entertainment/bar area, then the remaining will be unfinished storage. My vision of the dedicated home theater is to be used for movie watch, gaming, sporting events, potential party space.

Space:
I know, I know the theater isn’t exactly rectangle because of the back “hitch”. My plan is to place a bar in that area for 3-4 seats. The dimensions a bit off being that the width being a 16’-4’’ instead of 16’-10’ and the length including the “hitch” being 30’-2’’ instead of 30’-4’’. The height is 8’-9.5’’.







Design:
The goal is to be simplistic and modern will considering the WAF. I’m gong for a dark theme, probably mostly blacks and greys. I would like to have 2 rolls of 4 seats with a bar that seats 3-4 people in the “hitch” area. Row 2 and the bar being on a riser. I would also like to build a stage under the screen and false wall. The A/V and networking room will be in the storage area.

Specs:
I will update this list as I buy items and decisions are made or changed 😊. I have thoughts about the tech that will go in the room but haven’t purchased anything.


  • Room Dimensions: 16’4’’ x 30’2’’ x 8’9.5’’
  • HVAC: Adding 2 supplies and 1 return
  • Sound Isolation: 5/8’’ double wall with green glue, clips & hat channel, some fiberglass insulation, solid core door with sealing, and putty pads for outlets.
  • Screen: 160-170’’ 16:9 screen. Maybe a DIY using Seymour Center Stage XD fabric??
  • Speakers: Not sure yet. But going with a 7.2.4 system
  • Receiver: Leaning towards Denon X6500H
  • Project: Either JVC NX5/RS1000 or Sony VPL-VW295ES
  • Seating: Not sure yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Status as of 3/23/19

Status as of 3/23/19:
I have framed the room, ran electrical, ran HVAC, and ran low voltage. I have started marking the studs for the isolation clips. I am getting close to drywall.







My current dilemmas are with these two small windows. I am not sure what to do with them. The one closes to the back is in the ideal place for where I want to put a column :confused:. The other is just far enough from the front wall to allow for the false wall. I am thinking about covering up the back window to allow for my column, but don’t know what the ramifications are. I also want to do something about the one closest to the front. Possibly, doing something “crafty” to close it off when not needed but open it up when needed, shrugs.
 

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Four wide seating in your width isn't something ideal come audio.

Why so long? You could have shortened the room, and hide more of that awkward soffit up front, in a bigger storage space, and in an AT space.
There's a bunch of reasons why maybe that third bar row isn't so great an idea, if you can warp your head around investing some room depth into
a better performing room.

Between the AT space, shorter room, and window locations, a shift might just move the windows out of where you need columns.

Do you even need columns, if you used in wall speakers for surrounds?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Four wide seating in your width isn't something ideal come audio.

Why so long? You could have shortened the room, and hide more of that awkward soffit up front, in a bigger storage space, and in an AT space.
There's a bunch of reasons why maybe that third bar row isn't so great an idea, if you can warp your head around investing some room depth into
a better performing room.

Between the AT space, shorter room, and window locations, a shift might just move the windows out of where you need columns.

Do you even need columns, if you used in wall speakers for surrounds?
Thanks and I appreciate your insight!

I have a big family and we entertain a lot and the width for 4 wide seating still would give me a little over 3 feet on each side for walk way.
The front soffit will not be seen because it will be behind the false wall. I wanted it longer for the third bar row when entertaining. We do a lot of karaoke :) . I don't really need columns if I use in wall speakers. I would just need to build backer boxes for them. Columns just seems to give the room the theater feeling. I not really an audiophile, so I'm okay with sacrificing perfect sound for more space.
 

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If you are interested I can tell you how to save some headroom under the duct work.
instead of adding clips and channel to the bulkhead framing hang an isolated box off the decoupled walls and ceiling. Right now you have to add clips to the framing and then drywall. so you will have 1 1/2 inches for the horizontal frame and 1 1/4 inches for the clips and channel, You could eliminate both and save 2 3/4 inches and still preserve you sound isolation plans. But you would have to take down what you've built and start over, you could reuse the lumber.
 

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Discussion Starter #6




If you are interested I can tell you how to save some headroom under the duct work.
instead of adding clips and channel to the bulkhead framing hang an isolated box off the decoupled walls and ceiling. Right now you have to add clips to the framing and then drywall. so you will have 1 1/2 inches for the horizontal frame and 1 1/4 inches for the clips and channel, You could eliminate both and save 2 3/4 inches and still preserve you sound isolation plans. But you would have to take down what you've built and start over, you could reuse the lumber.
I somewhat understand what you mean somewhat. I'm trying to picture how to hang it around the obstructions, specifically on the horizontal bottom side. Do you have any examples of this I can reference?

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Discussion Starter #8




If you are interested I can tell you how to save some headroom under the duct work.
instead of adding clips and channel to the bulkhead framing hang an isolated box off the decoupled walls and ceiling. Right now you have to add clips to the framing and then drywall. so you will have 1 1/2 inches for the horizontal frame and 1 1/4 inches for the clips and channel, You could eliminate both and save 2 3/4 inches and still preserve you sound isolation plans. But you would have to take down what you've built and start over, you could reuse the lumber.
@BIGmouthinDC, Are you referring to what was done on the Beast Unleashed build to mirror the other soffit in this video.

Also, is that you helping out? If it's not, it sure looks like your picture :)
 

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that's me, you tack a rail on the drywalled decoupled walls. For the wide section I would use 5/8 plywood for the first layer on the bottom of the soffits then GG and 5/8 DW.
 

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that's me, you tack a rail on the drywalled decoupled walls. For the wide section I would use 5/8 plywood for the first layer on the bottom of the soffits then GG and 5/8 DW.
Awesome! Is there a particular gauge you recommend? Would this type along with something like this to attach to the wall suffice? If so, wouldn't that save me 1.25'' of head space instead of 2.75'', because the 1.5'' furring strip width attached to the decoupled wall? Sorry, not trying to second guest you. I'm just trying to be sure that I understand you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's been a while. I'm slowly making progress. I have completed the insulation of the walls and clips and hat channel on walls and ceiling. Next I have backer boxes and insulation of the ceiling.











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You could also use a space-saver style theater chair to save some width. I used the RTheater Jive and find them plenty comfortable. My theater is 16' (closer to 15' 11") wide after OSB/drywall/GG/hat channel&clips and would have liked to have gone 4 seats wide but I could not find anyone to put in a beam so I could get my support posts out of the way. I have plenty of room in my isles. Here are some pics to give you an idea. I used the curved seats so you could save even more room going with straight rows of seating. Straight rows save another 6+ inches over curved.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could also use a space-saver style theater chair to save some width. I used the RTheater Jive and find them plenty comfortable. My theater is 16' (closer to 15' 11") wide after OSB/drywall/GG/hat channel&clips and would have liked to have gone 4 seats wide but I could not find anyone to put in a beam so I could get my support posts out of the way. I have plenty of room in my isles. Here are some pics to give you an idea. I used the curved seats so you could save even more room going with straight rows of seating. Straight rows save another 6+ inches over curved.
Nice theater! I'm definitely going to look into those seats. I would like to find some that have the motorized headrest. Also, nice dog! :)

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Discussion Starter #14
Backerboxes Complete

It's been awhile since I've posted an update. Grabbed some MDF, did a TON of measuring, cutting, glueing, and nailing. All backer boxes are done and have been installed.














I also picked up my AV receiver. It was pretty much half the price of its MSRP!!

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Had to take a break in the theater for personal reasons then I was out of the country for a few weeks. I got the drywall delivered before I left the country. I started drywalling this week. Slowly but surely making more progress. I also got my DIYSG 1099s and HT-8s kits.





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Discussion Starter #16
I'm make progress on the drywall. I'm starting the 2nd layer. I have sealed all gaps using Acoustic sealant. Question though... Do I need to use the acoustic sealant on the 2nd layer of drywall even if the first layer is already sealed using the sealant? Or will the tapping and mudding take care of it?

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Just mud and tape.

Do I need to use the acoustic sealant on the 2nd layer of drywall even if the first layer is already sealed using the sealant? Or will the tapping and mudding take care of it?

Yes. Just mud and tape. Nothing else needed.
 
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Thanks! I was thinking I needes to do another round of acoustic sealant after the 2nd layer of drywall is hung.

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Maybe on the floor to wall angle, but not on anything else.. seems like mud and tape would make it 'finished' and sealed.
 

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Maybe on the floor to wall angle, but not on anything else.. seems like mud and tape would make it 'finished' and sealed.
Yeah. I was thinking at a minimum I would do the floor to wall angle again. Thanks for your help. That's going to save me a little be of time and money.

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