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Discussion Starter #1
Its been 11 years since my last theater. 5 apartments, 4 states, 3 houses, 2 kids, and 1 wife later I am now ready to start on theater number 2!

We close on our new house in Mountain Brook (hence the name!) AL Friday and, somewhat unusually for the area, has a relatively large basement. This includes a "bedroom" (somewhere between 14x14 and 16x16; I haven't measured yet) in the basement that I'm planning to use for the theater. A picture of the room is attached.

I've already got the following equipment:

  • Integra DTR 30.3 Receiver
  • Behringer EP2500 amp
  • 3 HSU HB-1 MK2 speakers
  • NVidia Shield
  • RP3 running OSMC (shockingly good picture, better than shield)
  • Media server (8 TB, but still enough for my needs).
I'm currently planning on going with a false wall and an acoustically transparent screen:

  • Silver Ticket 235125 WAB (2.35 128 inches)
  • Benq HT2050A (I'll use the "zoom" method for CIH)
  • DIY HT10 for front stage
  • DIY Dayton Sub https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7099#lblProductDetails
  • A variety of acoustic panels. I attempted to DIY these in college to somewhat disastrous results, and I'm not any better at wood-work now, so I'll get these from ATS or GIK. I'm planning on treating parts of the front wall, 1st reflections, and adding bass traps to the front wall bottom corners. The room is carpeted which should help with reflections as well.
  • Vero 4K
  • Seats TBD
Obviously I'm looking for high value though budget isn't really a concern (I just don't like spending a lot of money). I also don't want to do anything that would permanently impact resale value, so even painting the room all black would likely be out of the question (I can't imagine black not bleeding through additional coats of lighter paint).

Some initial questions/thoughts:

  • Should I consider the HT12s instead of the H10s? Are they worth the extra 50 dollars or so per speaker?
  • I'm hoping that using the HSUs as surrounds will match tonally with the HT10s (obviously won't be perfect, but hopefully tolerable). Or should I consider going HSU for all speakers (knowing that the HSUs have relatively small 6.5 inch woofers).
  • This room can be completely light controlled. However, my wife often prefers a small amount of ambient light while watching movies.
  • Can a "good" image still be attained with some ambient light?
  • If I do go with some ambient light during a movie, I would likely have to go with a different projector. I'm looking at the Optoma HZ39HDR if I go the route of adding ambient light. I do want to stick with DLP.
  • I don't really care about 4K/HDR/Atmos. I don't have any 4K blurays and don't have a 4K bluray player/ripper.
  • The ceiling is a drop ceiling. How does this impact acoustics (better/worse than a standard ceiling)? Has anyone had luck ceiling mounting a projector with a drop ceiling? What about vibrations (either audible vibrations from the panels or visual from a mounted projector).
  • If I go with the Benq then I'll have saved ~400 dollars relative to the Optoma which I can spend on a second subwoofer.
Overall, I like a smooth, "film"like image, good (but not necessarily crazy) bass, and dynamic (but not necessarily "reference volume") speakers. I want to watch classics such as LOTR, Matrix, 4k77-4k83 stars wars, Blade Runner, 2001 Space Odyssey, Lawrence of Arabia in a way that they were meant to be watched. I'll also watch the occasional Avengers movie :rolleyes: to satisfy my wife.
 

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Defo spend the extra 50 and go HT12s, I’ve got the HTM12s and they are simply amazing. I would also suggest you look for a bigger and better sub, either a full Marty or something like a Devastator with the LaVoce 21. Dual subs would be good too! Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Defo spend the extra 50 and go HT12s, I’ve got the HTM12s and they are simply amazing. I would also suggest you look for a bigger and better sub, either a full Marty or something like a Devastator with the LaVoce 21. Dual subs would be good too! Good luck


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Good call on the Marty's! I didn't realize that they were sold as packs. And the discount on buying multiple is certainly tempting.
 

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@sound dropouts ,


I'd like to help you pull together a correct approach for yoru Video. The right combination of Screen, Projector, and Room treatment can optimize whatever is spent...providing a Image in keeping with the Audio being considered. And well done Projector mounting solution is critical.....absolutely necessary for the sound system and it's probable level of use.



And about that Audio......your "squared" room presents certain design limitations, so be careful. You can easily go too far and waste money after problematic results that will require more expense in the build to correct. I'm gonna leave it at that for now.



I have more concern for the Video at the moment.



Don't discount affordable 4K Projection (3000 lumen) matched up with a stupidly inexpensive Spandex AT Screen together can give you an Image you would find incredible to view...even with some ambient light. Not sure why you'd be fixated on DLP.....but if you save almost everything that the Silver Ticket AT Screen will cost and apply that to your PJ budget.....


........but really...looking at your equipment list, and then seeing you wanting to base a 128" 2.39:1 CHI around the 2050 seems to make even that a moot point. $700.00 is just too low a starting point for anything you feel you want to be considered a Home Theater.

I can squeak out maximum performance value for your money spent.....but a specific minimum must be spent. Especially on the Projector.



Lumen output. Contrast. Feature set. All are involved and in play. And if there is anywhere you must compromise initially, it should be in the Audio / Room Decor areas. Save there...apply to the Video. You can have excellent view-ability in both lighting situations....you just have to do the right things.



Because while now it may not seem all that much of a priority.....at 128" diagonal it quickly will become apparent if even good HD is there. Or not.
 

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@sound dropouts ,


I'd like to help you pull together a correct approach for yoru Video. The right combination of Screen, Projector, and Room treatment can optimize whatever is spent...providing a Image in keeping with the Audio being considered. And well done Projector mounting solution is critical.....absolutely necessary for the sound system and it's probable level of use.



And about that Audio......your "squared" room presents certain design limitations, so be careful. You can easily go too far and waste money after problematic results that will require more expense in the build to correct. I'm gonna leave it at that for now.



I have more concern for the Video at the moment.



Don't discount affordable 4K Projection (3000 lumen) matched up with a stupidly inexpensive Spandex AT Screen together can give you an Image you would find incredible to view...even with some ambient light. Not sure why you'd be fixated on DLP.....but if you save almost everything that the Silver Ticket AT Screen will cost and apply that to your PJ budget.....


........but really...looking at your equipment list, and then seeing you wanting to base a 128" 2.39:1 CHI around the 2050 seems to make even that a moot point. $700.00 is just too low a starting point for anything you feel you want to be considered a Home Theater.

I can squeak out maximum performance value for your money spent.....but a specific minimum must be spent. Especially on the Projector.



Lumen output. Contrast. Feature set. All are involved and in play. And if there is anywhere you must compromise initially, it should be in the Audio / Room Decor areas. Save there...apply to the Video. You can have excellent view-ability in both lighting situations....you just have to do the right things.



Because while now it may not seem all that much of a priority.....at 128" diagonal it quickly will become apparent if even good HD is there. Or not.
@MississippiMan


I've been to Oxford many a time and enjoyed a few tailgates there. Looks like you aren't too far from there!


Thanks for the advice! I'm fixated on DLP because I want smooth, cinematic motion. I'm tired of the motion handling on my 60 inch lcd and don't want similar issues with an LCD projector. The 2050 is well thought of, even now...why don't you think I can get a good result with the 2050?



I have considered using a Spandex AT screen, though the low gain has concerned me with the 2050. I could go with a light cannon like Optoma HZ39HDR but I don't know if I like the high fan noise or the poor black level. What do you suggest for projector?
 

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Can't vouch for the HTM-10's but I am quite happy with my HTM-12's. I'd be willing to bet the -10's are no slouches either and would be fine if you are on a tight budget. Otherwise get the 12's.
 

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@MississippiMan

I've been to Oxford many a time and enjoyed a few tailgates there. Looks like you aren't too far from there!
50 minute drive.

Thanks for the advice! I'm fixated on DLP because I want smooth, cinematic motion. I'm tired of the motion handling on my 60 inch lcd and don't want similar issues with an LCD projector. The 2050 is well thought of, even now...why don't you think I can get a good result with the 2050?
Too dim for your screen size and viewing considerations. And not enough important features. Frankly...it's a Projector for those who either cannot afford anything more (...and for the price it should be well thought of...) or for those who simply won't consider the differences involved and how they relate to the performance involved. Only it's inexpensiveness is considered.


Well that's nothing new as far as NOOBs to Front Projection goes. But when one is pressing the limits, sending in a Boy to do the proverbial Man's job always results in some sour grapes.


I have considered using a Spandex AT screen, though the low gain has concerned me with the 2050. I could go with a light cannon like Optoma HZ39HDR but I don't know if I like the high fan noise or the poor black level. What do you suggest for projector?
Yeah...it's a conundrum. Spandex will provide better Blacks and a ultra smooth image...but at a cost of / need for adequate Lumen delivered.


At minimum I suggest the Optoma HD50x
 

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Discussion Starter #8
50 minute drive.


Too dim for your screen size and viewing considerations. And not enough important features. Frankly...it's a Projector for those who either cannot afford anything more (...and for the price it should be well thought of...) or for those who simply won't consider the differences involved and how they relate to the performance involved. Only it's inexpensiveness is considered.


Well that's nothing new as far as NOOBs to Front Projection goes. But when one is pressing the limits, sending in a Boy to do the proverbial Man's job always results in some sour grapes.



Yeah...it's a conundrum. Spandex will provide better Blacks and a ultra smooth image...but at a cost of / need for adequate Lumen delivered.


At minimum I suggest the Optoma HD50x
Thanks @MississippiMan.



I do have the ability to completely darken the room. If I go with the 2050 I won't be using any ambient light.



That said, I'm concerned about seeing weave on the ST screen at my viewing distance (100-115 inches). And going with spandex gives me flexibility for additional aspect ratios (2.0 or 2.2).



I'm starting to seriously consider going with this optoma, since its a laser projector and is very bright. My only concern is black levels; which may not be as big an issue when using the spandex screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did some more measuring today. The room is 14 by 14 and a half with 7 foot 3 inch ceilings; with another 2 feet at the back that's just wide enough for a door. There is also a side door.



With a two foot false wall, this leaves 12 feet between the back wall and the screen. For acoustic purposes I would like to be 4 feet from the back wall leaving 8 feet (96 inches) between the screen and the viewers. This is too close for ST screens so I'll go with spandex. At 96 inches, optimal screen height is between 43 and 48 inches, equating to a 16x9 image of 115 to 129. I'm leaning towards the bigger size which would likely be too large for the Benq 2050 on spandex.


Given how close I'm going to be sitting to the screen I'm going to see if the HSUs are sufficient and may save some money rather than going with the HT10s/12s.



Pictures of the room are attached.
 

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Thanks @MississippiMan .

I do have the ability to completely darken the room. If I go with the 2050 I won't be using any ambient light.
That would help...but even with that the differences in both Contrast and Lumen delivered between the BenQ and the Optoma are substantial...
...no, change that to hugely different.

BenQ 2050 2200 lumen - 15,000:1 Dynamic Contrast
Optoma HD50x 3400 lumen - 500,000:1 Dynamic Contrast (plz. note the 50x is NOT a Laser PJ )

Both of those specifications are critical to consider with a
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That would help...but even with that the differences in both Contrast and Lumen delivered between the BenQ and the Optoma are substantial...
...no, change that to hugely different.

BenQ 2050 2200 lumen - 15,000:1 Dynamic Contrast
Optoma HD50x 3400 lumen - 500,000:1 Dynamic Contrast (plz. note the 50x is NOT a Laser PJ )

Both of those specifications are critical to consider with a
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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What is the Optoma HD50x? I don't see it when googling. EDIT: This one? https://www.optoma.com/au/product/uhd50x/

I don't believe need 4k...I sit very close to my 60 inch 1080p lcd (closer ratio than with the projector). And I've heard that many cheap 4Ks don't do 24p.
Your comparing a direct view Monitor to 60" 1080p to a 120" + projected image. Take this with good nature but unless you have actually made a viewed comparison, you have no idea of how much of a difference 4x to 8x a resolution jump impacts as large an image as your about to deal with. In fact, you seem to have the whole thing backwards. People like to state that at 60" they don't see the difference that 4K provides, but at 120" they most certainly do!

And FYI, the HD50x does in fact provide [email protected]

The HSU's are only 8 inches, but are rear ported. I was also thinking of putting the subs behind the screen.
4" between the Wall and the HSU's Port is more than enough...the HSU's are Book Shelf-style units. As for the Subs being hidden in a room situation where darkness does that job...well that is a personal preference based on "visible" cosmetics...not "Dark Room" functionality. Ditto with the Right & Left HSU's Frankly...there are several ways to create the Screen area "NOW" and accomplish much by doing so, and then come back later to "Fill In" the right and left areas later. Purposefully directing you current funds and time to prepare for the future while not compromising Image quality in the present makes great good sense. Sticking yourself in the eye with a 111080p stick, and condensing your front sound stage down to a mini-system dimension....non-nonsensical. (IMO).


I'm planning on a 2.35 screen; 48 inches 113 inches. My understanding is with this aspect ratio the speakers should be placed just outside the 16x9 border; allowing all three speakers to be behind the screen.
I cannot fathom who by...or where you could have been told that you should squish your Right / Center / Left Channels together to within less than a 8' total spread when you have 14' of room width. Are you basing it on your seating distance? What is going to happen with the placement of all your other drivers?

I can understand one having a desire to emulate other member's outstanding looking "AT Screen Wall" projects. Goodness knows I've helped many achieve such. But I cannot think of anybody having placed such a small screen on such a broad, AT wall....and sitting so close....and spending the sums required to do so...while disputing the need to spend for a higher resolution Projector ideally suited to exactly what is needed. Shades of Pre-2010!

Also, your figures on Formatting a 2.35:1 screen are going to put many of your images outside the screens area for 95% of the current 2.39:1 / 2.40:1 formatted content out there. 2.35:1 is an age old Format that stubbornly lingers on the scene because too many people just don't catch up to current standards and norms. BTW... a 124" diagonal 2.39:1 is 48" x 115"

For ceiling tiles: yes, I plan on getting these: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/619671-REG/Auralex_TCCT22BLACK_T_Coustic_Mid_and.html/specs

And the room will definitely be painted :). I'm not sure on color yet; I don't want it to be black as this will double as a guest bedroom.
Well being the opinionated kinda "$%*&#!" that I am, I could help you out there....if you want such. I've had to be responsible for pleasing a lot of Wives...and their subservient Minions while also making certain that visual performance didn't suffer. Decor can be really simple to address and get right, or go completely south just as easily if the wrong suggestion is made early on.
 

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Your comparing a direct view Monitor to 60" 1080p to a 120" + projected image. Take this with good nature but unless you have actually made a viewed comparison, you have no idea of how much of a difference 4x to 8x a resolution jump impacts as large an image as your about to deal with. In fact, you seem to have the whole thing backwards. People like to state that at 60" they don't see the difference that 4K provides, but at 120" they most certainly do!

And FYI, the HD50x does in fact provide [email protected]


4" between the Wall and the HSU's Port is more than enough...the HSU's are Book Shelf-style units. As for the Subs being hidden in a room situation where darkness does that job...well that is a personal preference based on "visible" cosmetics...not "Dark Room" functionality. Ditto with the Right & Left HSU's Frankly...there are several ways to create the Screen area "NOW" and accomplish much by doing so, and then come back later to "Fill In" the right and left areas later. Purposefully directing you current funds and time to prepare for the future while not compromising Image quality in the present makes great good sense. Sticking yourself in the eye with a 111080p stick, and condensing your front sound stage down to a mini-system dimension....non-nonsensical. (IMO).


I cannot fathom who by...or where you could have been told that you should squish your Right / Center / Left Channels together to within less than a 8' total spread when you have 14' of room width. Are you basing it on your seating distance? What is going to happen with the placement of all your other drivers?

I can understand one having a desire to emulate other member's outstanding looking "AT Screen Wall" projects. Goodness knows I've helped many achieve such. But I cannot think of anybody having placed such a small screen on such a broad, AT wall....and sitting so close....and spending the sums required to do so...while disputing the need to spend for a higher resolution Projector ideally suited to exactly what is needed. Shades of Pre-2010!

Also, your figures on Formatting a 2.35:1 screen are going to put many of your images outside the screens area for 95% of the current 2.39:1 / 2.40:1 formatted content out there. 2.35:1 is an age old Format that stubbornly lingers on the scene because too many people just don't catch up to current standards and norms. BTW... a 124" diagonal 2.39:1 is 48" x 115"


Well being the opinionated kinda "$%*&#!" that I am, I could help you out there....if you want such. I've had to be responsible for pleasing a lot of Wives...and their subservient Minions while also making certain that visual performance didn't suffer. Decor can be really simple to address and get right, or go completely south just as easily if the wrong suggestion is made early on.



Having subs behind the screen gets them out of the way for when we need to use the room for guests. You are right about 2.39...I said 2.35 since thats my default number for "scope".



My screen size is based on having the seats not too close to the back wall for acoustic reasons. What is the downside of a smaller screen and closer seats? I get more brightness and better acoustics. The downside would be a (slightly) worse experience for those sitting off center.


I would love opinions on how to make the room perform well while retaining WAF. I'm open to any color as long as it makes sense for a bedroom as well.
 

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Having subs behind the screen gets them out of the way for when we need to use the room for guests. You are right about 2.39...I said 2.35 since thats my default number for "scope".
"Chuckle"....be it a Wall that comes out 24", or a Sub cabinet....your space accommodation remain the same.:D The only advantage is the visual appeal, and I just question as to if under your circumstances that should be an initial priority.

My screen size is based on having the seats not too close to the back wall for acoustic reasons. What is the downside of a smaller screen and closer seats? I get more brightness and better acoustics. The downside would be a (slightly) worse experience for those sitting off center.
You have the right idea...but your stuck with a room that lacks the dimensions. Even a 14' x 12' space is so close to being a square that the difference between having 12' or 14' between the front of the room and the rear wall is inconsequential. Also, a room that size would not be served well by any Speaker configuration beyond a 5.2.4. The Right and Left Surrounds could / should be placed to each side of the seating (...In-Walls) and the Atmos at 3'-4' ahead of the Seats and just behind the Seats.(Note: Placement of the Surrounds has been changed as is referenced in the diagram...)


If you allow for 24" behind the seats (4' is currrazy...), and you have a Screen surface 12" off the Wall, that gives you a 9' viewing distance. But the compounding issue is the amount of Throw distance you have to work with...made all the more an issue with the lack of Ceiling height. With the HD50x the projector can sit 6"off the Rear Wall...and being 10.6"deep it will still be 12"behind the Rear Seats, yet far enough away from the proposed Screen face 12" off the front wall to provide you with a 113" x 47" 122" diagonal 2.39:1 Image.





I would love opinions on how to make the room perform well while retaining WAF. I'm open to any color as long as it makes sense for a bedroom as well.
I would propose a deeply saturated Matte Red...and if possible, dark Grey Ceiling Tiles . Painting the Base Trim and Door / Window Casings a Grey that has been Color-matched to the Ceiling tiles would round off a very Decor-oriented look. (Hint: You want WAF...run screaming the other direction from using Black Ceiling Tiles...)


Acoustically....about all you can do to correct any adverse sound reflections is to build and hang some 24" x 40" x 2" Fabric Wrapped Sound Absorptive Panels at the most appropriate locations you can. Nice matching Grey ones.

However...again you seem to be a bit conflicted. You spoke of building a False Wall...and the room being in essence a Dedicated Theater...yet you just mentioned wanting Colors that make sense for a "Bedroom"? :confused:


OK.....running down that road, the idea of a Floating Screen that attaches to the front Wall would minimize both initial costs, and any (...God forbid...) eventual drastic tear-out to restore the Room to mediocrity. Your embracing the idea so many have that somehow...someway...somebody who is considering purchasing the Home would walk into the room and then turn away in disgust. Well a few might....but I know of a certain that a well done, well thought out Theater that performs over-the top will be a assest...a Closing point for far more. Especially for those who might want a Theater, but who cannot justify the expense or space for a larger room.


At this juncture I want to say I appreciate your measured response to my earlier post. You see, I do kinda see things develop into doable concepts almost immediately...ideas and gear that will work in a given circumstance. That's the curse of many years of varied experience. And I have developed a strong desire to see DIY'ers realize the most value and performance for their investment...with little or no compromises along the way. So let me say that I "kinda" apologize for my prior "overly insistent" postings. I gotta say "kinda" because you see, you room has it's issues and limitations....and I feel strongly that only the most correct approach will garner you the Theater you really are hoping for...and deserve.




Edit:
Oh yeah...looking again at your photos I was just now making note of those French Doors on the "side"....the one closest to Room Center needs to become "Fixed" Another thing would be to redo the Hinge configuration so that the other Door swings outward. Or both. More important....the location of the Left Surround. Personally....if I had my druthers, I'd frame in the side closest to the Front Wall and turn that opening into a single door that swings outward, getting rid of the Door that is toward the Rear. Yeah...Mo' money. Like I said....your room presents it's own specific design challenges. "IF" it becomes necessary to place the side Surrounds in that Ceiling, you will need to use Speakers that come fully sealed in their own enclosures. (Beale Streets' are good) Let's hope to avoid that scenario. I tell you the truth, if push comes to shove, redoing the double door Hinges and placing the Side Surrounds just behind the seating so that the Left Surround is placed between the Door Frame and the Closet wall would be a very acceptable solution. Not the best solution...but better than Ceiling mounted Surrounds
.
I have redone the Diagram to allow for the French Doors.
 

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"Chuckle"....be it a Wall that comes out 24", or a Sub cabinet....your space accommodation remain the same.:D The only advantage is the visual appeal, and I just question as to if under your circumstances that should be an initial priority.

You have the right idea...but your stuck with a room that lacks the dimensions. Even a 14' x 12' space is so close to being a square that the difference between having 12' or 14' between the front of the room and the rear wall is inconsequential. Also, a room that size would not be served well by any Speaker configuration beyond a 5.2.4. The Right and Left Surrounds could / should be placed to each side of the seating (...In-Walls) and the Atmos at 3'-4' ahead of the Seats and just behind the Seats.(Note: Placement of the Surrounds has been changed as is referenced in the diagram...)


If you allow for 24" behind the seats (4' is currrazy...), and you have a Screen surface 12" off the Wall, that gives you a 9' viewing distance. But the compounding issue is the amount of Throw distance you have to work with...made all the more an issue with the lack of Ceiling height. With the HD50x the projector can sit 6"off the Rear Wall...and being 10.6"deep it will still be 12"behind the Rear Seats, yet far enough away from the proposed Screen face 12" off the front wall to provide you with a 113" x 47" 122" diagonal 2.39:1 Image.





I would propose a deeply saturated Matte Red...and if possible, dark Grey Ceiling Tiles . Painting the Base Trim and Door / Window Casings a Grey that has been Color-matched to the Ceiling tiles would round off a very Decor-oriented look. (Hint: You want WAF...run screaming the other direction from using Black Ceiling Tiles...)


Acoustically....about all you can do to correct any adverse sound reflections is to build and hang some 24" x 40" x 2" Fabric Wrapped Sound Absorptive Panels at the most appropriate locations you can. Nice matching Grey ones.

However...again you seem to be a bit conflicted. You spoke of building a False Wall...and the room being in essence a Dedicated Theater...yet you just mentioned wanting Colors that make sense for a "Bedroom"? :confused:


OK.....running down that road, the idea of a Floating Screen that attaches to the front Wall would minimize both initial costs, and any (...God forbid...) eventual drastic tear-out to restore the Room to mediocrity. Your embracing the idea so many have that somehow...someway...somebody who is considering purchasing the Home would walk into the room and then turn away in disgust. Well a few might....but I know of a certain that a well done, well thought out Theater that performs over-the top will be a assest...a Closing point for far more. Especially for those who might want a Theater, but who cannot justify the expense or space for a larger room.


At this juncture I want to say I appreciate your measured response to my earlier post. You see, I do kinda see things develop into doable concepts almost immediately...ideas and gear that will work in a given circumstance. That's the curse of many years of varied experience. And I have developed a strong desire to see DIY'ers realize the most value and performance for their investment...with little or no compromises along the way. So let me say that I "kinda" apologize for my prior "overly insistent" postings. I gotta say "kinda" because you see, you room has it's issues and limitations....and I feel strongly that only the most correct approach will garner you the Theater you really are hoping for...and deserve.




Edit:
Oh yeah...looking again at your photos I was just now making note of those French Doors on the "side"....the one closest to Room Center needs to become "Fixed" Another thing would be to redo the Hinge configuration so that the other Door swings outward. Or both. More important....the location of the Left Surround. Personally....if I had my druthers, I'd frame in the side closest to the Front Wall and turn that opening into a single door that swings outward, getting rid of the Door that is toward the Rear. Yeah...Mo' money. Like I said....your room presents it's own specific design challenges. "IF" it becomes necessary to place the side Surrounds in that Ceiling, you will need to use Speakers that come fully sealed in their own enclosures. (Beale Streets' are good) Let's hope to avoid that scenario. I tell you the truth, if push comes to shove, redoing the double door Hinges and placing the Side Surrounds just behind the seating so that the Left Surround is placed between the Door Frame and the Closet wall would be a very acceptable solution. Not the best solution...but better than Ceiling mounted Surrounds
.
I have redone the Diagram to allow for the French Doors.

Wow! Thanks for all your suggestions. Another option is to stop using the back door and use that alcove to place the project; which would allow more distance between projector and screen. Using a 30 degree angle between side speakers at 9 feet would yield 100 inches between front speakers which would still be behind the screen in this case. For the time being I'm going to stick with 5.1 or 6.1 surround...my receiver does not support Atmos and I don't have a 4k bluray player. I currently have 3.0 surround so 5.1 will be a major upgrade for me :).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've been busy painting the rest of the house and have just gotten back to working on the theater. First coat of paint (would have finished the room but our Home Depot paint mixer messed up the second gallon...). The color looks good to me. Also got ethernet wired into the room for the media player and AV receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another minor update:


Couldn't pass on a deal like this: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=604415. Purchase three instead of new HSUs for the LCR.


I did play the first 10 minutes of Revenge of the Sith and the first 10 minutes of Fellowship of the Ring (two tracks I'm very familiar with) at high volume (peeks at 87 dbs without a subwoofer). The HSU's seemed capable but I always wonder if I'm missing headroom or dynamics with 6.5 inch woofers. The Monoprice speakers should be easier to drive and I can use the HSUs for surrounds. The 3 monoprice speakers were cheaper than two HSUs (which I would have needed to purchase for surrounds), which ultimately drove my decision.


One thing that did stand out during the tests was echo/ringing. Considering there was no furniture and no acoustic treatment this was not a surprise. However, I was impressed with the clarity of dialog even without acoustic treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The speakers arrived, though not the adapter for the wires. The speakers themselves are enormous, and better constructed than I expected. They look imposing in the small room. And the boxes are making great (temporary) stands for my surrounds! (Also my oldest daughter wants to be in every picture...).





I'll test the sound tomorrow...though I suspect that I'll be underwhelmed until I get acoustic treatment.
 

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