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I'm sorry for asking so many questions about my new AVR-X4000 but I really, really appreciate the help of jdsmoothie, batpig, and everybody else!

I do have one more question though...

What is the surround mode "STANDARD" ? (this is available using the Denon Remote applications or the RS232/IP protocol, etc)

After doing research, I know that there are three surround mode "quick selects" called Movie, Music, and Game. Each of these can be programmed to select your favorite surround mode. (for example, the "Movie" button can automatically select the DTS NEO:X Cinema mode, etc)

However, I'm confused what this "STANDARD" surround mode is and the purpose of it...
The "STANDARD" button used to be, um, standard on Denon remotes for surround control. Up until a few years ago when they dropped that on the xx12 models and switched to the newer "quick select" method of having memorizable Movie/Music/Game buttons. But the "Standard" command still persists in the world of universal remotes and custom installs.

Basically, the way you can think about Denon surrounds is that there are three basic categories:

1. STANDARD modes which are the core surround sound processing modes without any "enhancement"
2. 2CH LISTENING modes which include Stereo and Direct surround modes
3. DENON DSP modes like MultiCH Stereo, Jazz Club, etc. which add some proprietary "enhancement" processing

Traditionally, hitting the "STANDARD" button would cycle through the various "standard" surround processing options. Typically the first option would be "straight" decoding (e.g. if DOLBY DIGITAL 5.1 is the input, and you have a 7.1 setup, it would decode the straight 5.1 signal) and then it would cycle through the various "standard" upmixing (Dolby Pro-Logic and DTS equivalent). So if you take that 5.1 signal and keep pressing standard it will cycle from "straight" Dolby Digital through DD+PLIIx Cinema, DD+PLIIx Music, DD+DTS Neo:X, etc.

With a stereo input signal the "STANDARD" button will cycle through various upmix flavors (again the correlation with "standard" and surround sound), so it might go PLIIx Cinema > PLIIx Music > DTS Neo:X Cinema > DTS Neo:X Music etc.
 

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Thanks for your response. It's a bit confusing because on Amazon the Miccas are listed as 4ohm, but on the Micca website it says "Impedance: 4-8 Ohms" -- so I guess the speakers can be powered by both? But they don't specify at which impedance the 75 watts is.

I think I may go with the Fluance for all 5 of my speakers since they're all 8 ohm. That way no issues :)
Here's the thing -- impedance is not a "fixed" number. It's a contineously variable property of electrical resistance that is going to vary by frequency. For example, here is an impedance graph by frequency of my front speakers (Energy RC-10) from this site:



Notice that it has peaks and valleys, with the peaks at almost 20 ohms in some spots, and dipping below 5ohms at others. The manufacturer can choose to spec the "nominal" impedance which is sort of an average number, or the "minimum" impedance. Or perhaps both (e.g. saying "this speaker is compatible with 4-8ohm receivers").

The important thing to understand is that impedance rating is just one number, that is limited in its meaningfulness, and there are a lot of other variables that determine whether speakers can be driven by your amps. There are some 8-ohm rated speakers that are much tougher loads than other speakers that may be rated at 4-ohms.
 
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Here's the thing -- impedance is not a "fixed" number. It's a contineously variable property of electrical resistance that is going to vary by frequency. For example, here is an impedance graph by frequency of my front speakers (Energy RC-10) from this site:



Notice that it has peaks and valleys, with the peaks at almost 20 ohms in some spots, and dipping below 5ohms at others. The manufacturer can choose to spec the "nominal" impedance which is sort of an average number, or the "minimum" impedance. Or perhaps both (e.g. saying "this speaker is compatible with 4-8ohm receivers").

The important thing to understand is that impedance rating is just one number, that is limited in its meaningfulness, and there are a lot of other variables that determine whether speakers can be driven by your amps. There are some 8-ohm rated speakers that are much tougher loads than other speakers that may be rated at 4-ohms.
Wow thanks for the explanation.. Very interesting. You can tell I'm new to all of this. I wish Fluance published that kind of info on their site so I can see how tough of a load their speakers will be. Oh well guess I'll have to wait and find out.

Hmm just read great reviews about the Pioneer SP-BS22 and found someone's impedance measurements here which show that they are pretty easy speakers to drive. Maybe I'll get those then :) Tough choices!
 

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Hello. Quick question about using Audissey on my Denon X-2000. I have been using my X-2000 for over a month a now without using the Audissey feature, I mean, I have been using the X-2000 with it's factory presets. So far I have liked it very much but I bought with the Audissey function in mind. The QUESTION is: If I were to install the Audissey equalization and then I didn't like it can I undo the process and have it back like I have it today, that is, without Audissey? Please excuse the ignorance of my question. Thank you.
 

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Hello. Quick question about using Audissey on my Denon X-2000. I have been using my X-2000 for over a month a now without using the Audissey feature, I mean, I have been using the X-2000 with it's factory presets. So far I have liked it very much but I bought with the Audissey function in mind. The QUESTION is: If I were to install the Audissey equalization and then I didn't like it can I undo the process and have it back like I have it today, that is, without Audissey? Please excuse the ignorance of my question. Thank you.
The X-2000 has four modes (see buttons at bottom of remote), and the "PURE" one completely shuts down all processing, so even once you set up Audyssey, you can toggle out of it with a push of a button.
 
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Well PURE mode also disables other stuff that he might want like bass management and tone controls. It's easier just to turn off Audyssey in the AUDIO menu under AUDYSSEY settings.
@obonillaf -- One thing to keep in mind is that "Audyssey" is not just ONE thing, there are multiple things that get turned on. Think of it in layers:

Layer 1 -- Audyssey MultEQ XT calibrates and equalizes the speakers (this is the baseline EQ)
Layer 2 -- Dynamic EQ adjusts tonal balance as you drop the volume to keep things rich and immersive, boosting the bass and surrounds
Layer 3 -- Dynamic Volume controls dynamic range swings from loud to soft to keep the volume more consistent (only use if you want to clamp down on dynamic range)

So you might run Audyssey and then decide it doesn't sound good and turn the whole thing off, when really it might just be Dynamic Volume that's the problem and you can keep the rest of it on.
 
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Hopefully I'm not developing an issue.

Just sitting here watching tv and the X4000 shut off with a blinking red light. Powered back up fine. Had it since late Dec and its been fine so far. I did a processor reset when I first got it, then recently before I reran audyssey.

Should not be a wire issue because it is only working as a preamp for my outlaw amp.
 

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Having a weird issue with my AVR-X2000 that I'm fairly certain will require taking the receiver to a repair center (bought last Oct, Amazon Warehouse so no warranty right? Going to call Denon in the AM to make sure). I'd really appreciate a second opinion or suggestions before this last resort.

I have the energy take classic 5.1 speakers, but the center channel is extremely low volume, and when I increase the dB it becomes very scratchy and is still much less volume than my other speakers. I've replaced the center with one of the fronts to make sure it wasn't the speaker, same results. Borrowed the same model speaker from a friend too, just in case- same results.

Things i've tried:

Replaced the speaker wire (and the speaker)
Reversed the polarity at the speaker
Reset microprocessor 5x, re-ran audyssey (oddly, the chirps sound fairly normal from the center, but when audyssey completes, it sets the center at +6.5dB, and all audio from this speaker sounds awful (static/scratchy).


I've googled my face off but have yet to find another instance of a specific audio channel failing from this receiver. For now, the center channel is disabled. Thanks in advance for ANY suggestions. Not looking forward to having to replace the AVR, the rest of the 4.1 setup sounds great!
 

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Jdsmoothie,

oki i tried different amp assign settings, unplugged both cable box and changed hdmi inputs... blue ray works normally (from main zone(); cable box i ssending sound to zone 2 however sound controls stays within main zone


any clue??
 

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Tuner in X1000 - No Sound From Stations

I set my tuner to display and broadcast local FM stations and it worked perfectly until yesterday. When I tuned in yesterday; at first I was able to see and change channels but no sound. When I paused on one channel for about 30 seconds; audio finally came through on that channel only. When I changed channels there was no sound and from that point I was unable to even change channel numbers. What is going on? Also, when I do Pass-through for cable; I get a video feed but no audio feed. I've done a reset 6X's with same result.

Jim
 

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KuroX;
Pretty much the same problem I'm having with the 4000, I am going to try one more full reset, and if that doesn't work it's going back. The irony is I bought this unit to fill in while my AVP-A1HDCi pre-amp is in the shop for the same thing. It had no problems until a year after upgrading the HDMI board for XT32 & 3D.
 

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Hmm just read great reviews about the Pioneer SP-BS22 and found someone's impedance measurements here which show that they are pretty easy speakers to drive. Maybe I'll get those then :) Tough choices!
Just get the ones that sound the best to you. You receiver will drive them. Those "valleys" in the impedance graph are at narrow frequency ranges so they are not likely to ever become a problem to you. The high peak-to-average ratio in music works in your favor also -- if you were playing music with 100 watt peaks, the average would likely be in the range of 1 to 10 watts.

Even those pretty graphs don't really show what your receiver has to drive. The reactance (a measure of the phase shift between voltage and current) of speakers varies as wildly as the absolute magnitude of the impedance.
 

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OUCH! The message preview never went away so I thought this had not been posted. Sorry about that!

Hmm just read great reviews about the Pioneer SP-BS22 and found someone's impedance measurements here which show that they are pretty easy speakers to drive. Maybe I'll get those then :) Tough choices!
Just get the ones that sound the best to you. You receiver will drive them. Those "valleys" in the impedance graph are in narrow frequency ranges so they are not likely to ever become a problem to you. The high peak-to-average ratio in music works in your favor also -- if you were playing music with 100 watt peaks, the average would likely be in the range of 1 to 10 watts, and it won't all be at a single frequency.

Even those pretty graphs don't really show what your receiver has to drive. The reactance (a measure of the phase shift between voltage and current) of speakers varies as wildly as the absolute magnitude of the impedance.
 

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I'm curious about the technology inside my X4000. Are the power amps historical Class AB bipolar transistors, FETs in an analog configuration, or some mode of switching amp?

Has Denon released any papers about their design?

Thank you!
Any news on this? Thank you!
 

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Trigger1/Trigger2

I think the Owners Manual for the X4000 is not quite clear about activating the Trigger outputs. If, for example, you select "Zone 2" and "DVD" then the trigger signal is turned on whenever the DVD input is selected in Zone 2.

However, if ALL of the Zones and Sources are set to "---" (defined on p195 as "Do not activate trigger on this mode) both Trigger outputs turn on as soon as the receiver is powered up. One would expect them to be "not activated."

Fortunately there is a workaround. We wanted the ability to turn the trigger signals on and off by remote control using the published IP protocol. We found that of we set to "ON" a Zone/Input combination that we would never actually use, the commanded changes do work as expected.
 

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KuroX;
Pretty much the same problem I'm having with the 4000, I am going to try one more full reset, and if that doesn't work it's going back. The irony is I bought this unit to fill in while my AVP-A1HDCi pre-amp is in the shop for the same thing. It had no problems until a year after upgrading the HDMI board for XT32 & 3D.
That's...incredibly disheartening. Might have to get back on the Onkyo wagon. At least I know it's happened to somebody else now, thanks for replying. Awful your pre-amp did the same thing. :(
 

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So much.
 
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Hey Guys... my AVR-X3000 got hit by a power surge when lightning hit our house... it powers on and responds to the remote fine but there's no output to a tv and no sound. Is that a board of some sort that likely needs replacing or something else?
I've already bought a replacement but I hate to just throw it away... Any idea what fixing it might would cost?

Thanks!!
 
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