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No, the same target curve should always be applied to all speakers. Besides, the bass boost usually occurs below the crossover, so its impact on the main speakers is minimal.
I know this is the generally correct approach and also indicated in the various links of the first post of this thread, and I too therefore use the same target curve for all speakers in my system (5.1). Going further, it's also true that several Dirac guides suggest creating your own target curve following the normal roll off of our speakers, as noted in Dirac. For the front there are no problems: my mains and central channel (bookshelf with rear reflex) have substantially an identical response in grequency, my surrounds are from the same line, but they are sealed on-wall type, so they obviously have quite a different frequency response both up and down. It would therefore be wrong to think of applying only for them a different target curve from, therefore modeled on their actual frequency response to avoid having an excessively full target curve, where the speakers are not able to push, and at the same time too low, where the speakers have more energy? Obviously, the crossover for these two speakers is also different: 80Hz for mains and center, 90Hz (or maybe 100Hz) for the two surrounds.
Ettore
 

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Use loudness if your AVR/AVP has it. Works great with the HTP-1.
Ooo! I thought those were extinct! Some of the old amps had loudness dials. If I remember right, they also boost the high end, though I think that's been proven unnecessary. Either way, "loudness" needs to make a resurgence.

One more reason to get an HTP-1:)
 

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Ooo! I thought those were extinct! Some of the old amps had loudness dials. If I remember right, they also boost the high end, though I think that's been proven unnecessary. Either way, "loudness" needs to make a resurgence.

One more reason to get an HTP-1:)
The HTP-1 actually has two loudness modes (if used with Pink Soda's alternative webui), "vintage" mode boosts also treble/high end, ISO mode only bass. Loudness level is also adjustable. I use vintage mode (and Auro upmixer) almost all the time when listening music.
 

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The HTP-1 actually has two loudness modes (if used with Pink Soda's alternative webui), "vintage" mode boosts also treble/high end, ISO mode only bass. Loudness level is also adjustable. I use vintage mode (and Auro upmixer) almost all the time when listening music.
Thanks TimoJ....I wasn't aware of this feature!
 
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Hello All,

I have the opportunity to audition a pair of Seaton Catalysts 12C's which is my first foray into active speakers. Any suggestions when it comes to DIRAC? Disable all of the DSP capabilities built into the Cats? Pretty much flying blind so any input would be welcomed. My processor is a HTP-1. Thank you in advance.

Keith
 

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Hello All,

I have the opportunity to audition a pair of Seaton Catalysts 12C's which is my first foray into active speakers. Any suggestions when it comes to DIRAC? Disable all of the DSP capabilities built into the Cats? Pretty much flying blind so any input would be welcomed. My processor is a HTP-1. Thank you in advance.

Keith
If I understand the specs, these speakers have powered bass drivers. I don't recall much discussion in this thread WRT how speakers with powered bass drivers are handled with Dirac. Would you configure the bass drivers as subs on the HTP-1? Or would you configure them as normal speakers and, if so, where would you set the crossovers? How are other owners with similar speakers, like Definitive Technology, configuring the bass drivers? While I think the Seatons are interesting speakers, I have avoided speakers with this type of design because they pose significant challenges to successfully integrate them with conventional room correction technologies.
 

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If I understand the specs, these speakers have powered bass drivers. I don't recall much discussion in this thread WRT how speakers with powered bass drivers are handled with Dirac. Would you configure the bass drivers as subs on the HTP-1? Or would you configure them as normal speakers and, if so, where would you set the crossovers? How are other owners with similar speakers, like Definitive Technology, configuring the bass drivers? While I think the Seatons are interesting speakers, I have avoided speakers with this type of design because they pose significant challenges to successfully integrate them with conventional room correction technologies.
Not powered bass drivers. Seaton 12C's are 3-way active speakers. You would not remove all the DSP. The DSP in the amp is the crossover, that is set to give you a flat response. You just let Dirac do its normal thing with the speakers, just like you would with passive speakers.
 

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Hello All,

I have the opportunity to audition a pair of Seaton Catalysts 12C's which is my first foray into active speakers. Any suggestions when it comes to DIRAC? Disable all of the DSP capabilities built into the Cats? Pretty much flying blind so any input would be welcomed. My processor is a HTP-1. Thank you in advance.

Keith
Leave DSP alone and let Dirac do its thing. Just like you would with a passive speaker.
 

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Thank you Mike and Jerry for your response! I will let you know how things turn out.

Hope you both have a great night!

Keith
 

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Using my miniDSP 2x4 HD, one of the final steps is equalizing my subs where I use REW to add a 7-8dB house curve and load it into the miniDSP.

Since I'm using DIRAC Live now, and more specifically loading it's +8dB curve, should I continue to perform the REW house curve load first/as well?

Reason I ask is because the REW loaded curve really does smooth out the bass by quite a bit, but I don't want to do it if it's just adding a layer of EQ to what DL will do anyways.
 

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Ooo! I thought those were extinct! Some of the old amps had loudness dials. If I remember right, they also boost the high end, though I think that's been proven unnecessary. Either way, "loudness" needs to make a resurgence.

One more reason to get an HTP-1:)
You can come and check mine out! Play around with stuff. I’ve moved from where I was before but you are always welcome to check stuff out.

I use loudness! I run a few different curves and run one specifically to use loudness with. It works great!
 

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Using my miniDSP 2x4 HD, one of the final steps is equalizing my subs where I use REW to add a 7-8dB house curve and load it into the miniDSP.

Since I'm using DIRAC Live now, and more specifically loading it's +8dB curve, should I continue to perform the REW house curve load first/as well?

Reason I ask is because the REW loaded curve really does smooth out the bass by quite a bit, but I don't want to do it if it's just adding a layer of EQ to what DL will do anyways.
I would remove the house curve from the MiniDSP and let Dirac handle it. You have more control with the Dirac curve editor.
 

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You can come and check mine out! Play around with stuff. I’ve moved from where I was before but you are always welcome to check stuff out.

I use loudness! I run a few different curves and run one specifically to use loudness with. It works great!
I'm always down to see the latest iteration of your monster system! PM sent.
 

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hello guys a question, did you turn the sub all the way down and then measured all the speaker and turned the sub at just the end? as i read it should be measured as the last one. why then? im talking about levels at the start
 

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hello guys a question, did you turn the sub all the way down and then measured all the speaker and turned the sub at just the end? as i read it should be measured as the last one. why then? im talking about levels at the start
Volume Calibration
Preparation
  1. Move "Master output" slider all the way down.
  2. Move mic gain slider up as long as background noise level stays below the -50dB mark. Make sure devices that are known to generate a lot of inaudible low frequency noise are switched off, e.g. HVAC, refrigerator, washer, dryer, people walking around (they sometimes don't have an off switch though), etc. Such noise can invalidate measurements.
  3. Move all speaker channel sliders all the way up.
  4. Turn level/gain knob on your subwoofer all the way down. If your sub has a low pass filter, make sure it is switched off or set to the highest value.

and im talking about this step because i forgot to do it unfurtonately
 

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hello guys a question, did you turn the sub all the way down and then measured all the speaker and turned the sub at just the end? as i read it should be measured as the last one. why then? im talking about levels at the start
Yes, that is correct. You want to make sure the sub level is set slightly higher than any of the other main speakers. Why do you find this strange? You don't necessarily need to start with the sub level turned all the way down--just make sure that you set its level properly as the last step.
 

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I would remove the house curve from the MiniDSP and let Dirac handle it. You have more control with the Dirac curve editor.
Ok, wasn't sure about the whole thing about trying to get the sub looking as good as possible first before handing it over to DIRAC...
 

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After Dirac has been run, is there anyway to raise the centre channel volume? I’ve read that you can call back up a Dirac run that you’ve done and raise the level of the centre channel on the speaker levels screen and then save it but I’m not sure if that’s correct.
 

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Ok, wasn't sure about the whole thing about trying to get the sub looking as good as possible first before handing it over to DIRAC...
I consider sub PEQ and a "house curve" as different things. Applying PEQ prior to the calibration is reasonable. Applying a house curve is best done with a custom target after the calibration.
 
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