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Question are they bookshelves? If so just get some boxes and play with different setups temporarily. I personally don't have a problem with multiple surrounds, but that setup can truly be room dependant. If you like having two sets of surrounds just make sure they are set up correctly, it wouldn't be 7.2.4 it would be 5.2.4 just with duplicated surrounds. And wire them in series to be safe. Plus if you do like it that way, you can still add Rears to get you back to 7.2.4.
That what my setup is, a 7.2.4 configuration but with a 9.4.8 speaker layout, works great in my room.
Yea, they are bookshelf ones atm, my current is the 7.2.4, so if i extra added a pair of side surrounds it would be 9.2.4, but actually like u said a 7.2.4 setup.. would i need yet another amp/avr for the extra pair if sides? I already have sc-95, and another amp/avr to power the backs for my 7.2.4...

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Question are they bookshelves? If so just get some boxes and play with different setups temporarily. I personally don't have a problem with multiple surrounds, but that setup can truly be room dependant. If you like having two sets of surrounds just make sure they are set up correctly, it wouldn't be 7.2.4 it would be 5.2.4 just with duplicated surrounds. And wire them in series to be safe. Plus if you do like it that way, you can still add Rears to get you back to 7.2.4.
That what my setup is, a 7.2.4 configuration but with a 9.4.8 speaker layout, works great in my room.
How did u do a 9.4.8..my goodness.

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How did u do a 9.4.8..my goodness.

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It's just simply channel duplication, I'm running 2 pairs of surrounds since my Yamaha doesn't do wides, and duplicating my TF and TR's also.
I personally have an amp channel for each speaker, but you really don't have to. If you just want to experiment with duplicating your surrounds you don't have to get an amp, you can simply wire them in series, this way it will create a 16ohm load on that amp channel and be perfectly safe, then later of you like it and decide to add and amp for them you can, but honestly you won't have to, because of the 16ohm speaker load.
The only time you would "have"to add an amp is with additional discrete channels/locations or as in commercial cinemas where there is a whole row of surrounds, which don't forget, is how they cover large spaces.
 

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It's just simply channel duplication, I'm running 2 pairs of surrounds since my Yamaha doesn't do wides, and duplicating my TF and TR's also.
I personally have an amp channel for each speaker, but you really don't have to. If you just want to experiment with duplicating your surrounds you don't have to get an amp, you can simply wire them in series, this way it will create a 16ohm load on that amp channel and be perfectly safe, then later of you like it and decide to add and amp for them you can, but honestly you won't have to, because of the 16ohm speaker load.
The only time you would "have"to add an amp is with additional discrete channels/locations or as in commercial cinemas where there is a whole row of surrounds, which don't forget, is how they cover large spaces.
Thanks that helps. Will do that

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So I am getting ready to switch my 5.1.2 setup with up firing speakers to a 5.1.4 setup with ceiling speakers. Before I start cutting holes, I was hoping to get some quick advice on height speaker placement of the two options I include here. I am not sure if it would be better to create a wider sound stage, or have them line up with the front mains, like in Dolby's diagrams.

Any advice appreciated.
 

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I followed Dolby's instructions for lining the overheads with my fronts. But my fronts are ~ 10 feet apart so they are outside our MLP which is similar to your 2nd pix. Our MLP is a 2 person loveseat that is only 6 feet wide. Good luck
 
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So I am getting ready to switch my 5.1.2 setup with up firing speakers to a 5.1.4 setup with ceiling speakers. Before I start cutting holes, I was hoping to get some quick advice on height speaker placement of the two options I include here. I am not sure if it would be better to create a wider sound stage, or have them line up with the front mains, like in Dolby's diagrams.

Any advice appreciated.
I think you'll be fine either way. Due to room constraints, my fronts are closer in to the screen than I'd like, so I ended up mounting my heights wider than my fronts and I think it sounds great - but had my fronts been closer to 30 degrees I would have lined them up. Also, if youre interested in widening the sound stage, you might want to consider adding some wides :) I just did and, while I miss having rear surrounds (my room won't accommodate them), both Atmos and DTS:X material sounds fantastic with the wides.
 
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So I am getting ready to switch my 5.1.2 setup with up firing speakers to a 5.1.4 setup with ceiling speakers. Before I start cutting holes, I was hoping to get some quick advice on height speaker placement of the two options I include here. I am not sure if it would be better to create a wider sound stage, or have them line up with the front mains, like in Dolby's diagrams.

Any advice appreciated.
And why don't you widen your front right/left speakers and give more space between them. This way you will cover wider space in MLP and hear more separated sound. And, what is more important, you will have your ceilings in line with fronts (as on pic 2). Of course, if you do not have any obstacles or restraints to do that with your fronts.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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I think you'll be fine either way. Due to room constraints, my fronts are closer in to the screen than I'd like, so I ended up mounting my heights wider than my fronts and I think it sounds great - but had my fronts been closer to 30 degrees I would have lined them up. Also, if youre interested in widening the sound stage, you might want to consider adding some wides :) I just did and, while I miss having rear surrounds (my room won't accommodate them), both Atmos and DTS:X material sounds fantastic with the wides.
I followed Dolby's instructions for lining the overheads with my fronts. But my fronts are ~ 10 feet apart so they are outside our MLP which is similar to your 2nd pix. Our MLP is a 2 person loveseat that is only 6 feet wide. Good luck
And why don't you widen your front right/left speakers and give more space between them. This way you will cover wider space in MLP and hear more separated sound. And, what is more important, you will have your ceilings in line with fronts (as on pic 2). Of course, if you do not have any obstacles or restraints to do that with your fronts.

Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I went ahead and cut out the first two holes in line with the fronts, but I moved them out a few inches more. The problem is I have a door in the top right corner of that room and have furniture to deal with on the top left side, so I can't spread them out too much. I am already drawing a bit of wife aggro with holes in the ceiling, so I can't press it. :D

One more question - do any of you have moveable tweeters in your ceiling speakers? If so, where do you aim them? Down, or at the primary listening area?
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I went ahead and cut out the first two holes in line with the fronts, but I moved them out a few inches more. The problem is I have a door in the top right corner of that room and have furniture to deal with on the top left side, so I can't spread them out too much. I am already drawing a bit of wife aggro with holes in the ceiling, so I can't press it. :D

One more question - do any of you have moveable tweeters in your ceiling speakers? If so, where do you aim them? Down, or at the primary listening area?
In all the rooms I have listened to top mounted height speakers, I find it best to have them aimed across the room to the furthest listening position.

Think of it like this.
The closer you are to a speaker, the louder it will sound.
The more in line with the aim of the speaker, the louder it will sound.

If you aim them straight down, or even just to the closer seat, you have both issues adding up. The person on the right, will hear the right speaker much louder. If you aim for the far seat, as you move right, you go off axis as you go closer. The gain from getting closer is offset to some degree by going off axis to the speaker. In most cases, the height, possible angle, and dispersion will not make it possible to totally offset the level increase as you get closer to the speaker, but the further you can aim across the room seems to be the best.
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I went ahead and cut out the first two holes in line with the fronts, but I moved them out a few inches more. The problem is I have a door in the top right corner of that room and have furniture to deal with on the top left side, so I can't spread them out too much. I am already drawing a bit of wife aggro with holes in the ceiling, so I can't press it. :D

One more question - do any of you have moveable tweeters in your ceiling speakers? If so, where do you aim them? Down, or at the primary listening area?
I have limited ability to direct the tweeters in my GoldenEar Invisa ceiling speakers but, like @GXMnow, do angle them in toward the listening position.
 

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What's the least expensive option for receiver/amp to do 7.1.4?
Just Atmos or do you need X, HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 and any other features? Personally I would give JD of AV Science a call. Great prices and knowledge of the products that would meet your requirement.
 

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Atmos question for existing theater

I currently have a paradigm bookshelf L/R and center channel with in-ceiling paradigm surround (over seating and rear of seating) 7.1 setup. I want to upgrade to an Atmos capable receiver and use my existing set up if possible. I understand that true atmos in ceiling are more dispersed but can I use this set up and get reasonable capabilities and do I need a 7/1/2 or 7/1/4 receiver? Thanks
 

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What's the least expensive option for receiver/amp to do 7.1.4?
Dependent on your need for UHD/HDR & DTS X. As others have suggested - - check with JD.

Also - - "Open Box" specials from Best Buy - - if you can find one in your area. Great deals - - they come with full manufacturer's warranty.

Denon x5200 - Dolby Atmos but no HDCP 2.2. No DTS X. Can be had from $650 up (Open Box - again if you can find from Best Buy)

Denon x6200 - Dolby Atmos, DTS X, HDCP 2.2. Lowest price I've seen is around $1,599.99 from Accessories4Less - when they have them in stock. Usually refurbished which means only one year of warranty. You can check with Denon, direct, for an extended warranty if they cover refurbished products. Brand New - $2,199 from Amazon. See if JD can beat.
 

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Dependent on your need for UHD/HDR & DTS X. As others have suggested - - check with JD.

Also - - "Open Box" specials from Best Buy - - if you can find one in your area. Great deals - - they come with full manufacturer's warranty.

Denon x5200 - Dolby Atmos but no HDCP 2.2. No DTS X. Can be had from $650 up (Open Box - again if you can find from Best Buy)

Denon x6200 - Dolby Atmos, DTS X, HDCP 2.2. Lowest price I've seen is around $1,599.99 from Accessories4Less - when they have them in stock. Usually refurbished which means only one year of warranty. You can check with Denon, direct, for an extended warranty if they cover refurbished products. Brand New - $2,199 from Amazon. See if JD can beat.
Thanks for the great suggestions! Yes, I would like to have DTS:X for movies encoded that way, and UHD support would be nice for someday when I upgrade to a 4k PJ, though just 1080p now. But wow, $1600+ is a lot of cash. Maybe I should wait for prices to come down...
 

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What power amps are you 7.4 guys running for Dolby Atmos. Need to get a 2 channel power amp but dont want to break the bank. Any recommendations?
 

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Technically it's 7.x.4 by the way. 7.4 would be 7 bed layer channels and four subwoofers. Scott would approve, but that's neither here nor there.

The AudioSource AMP-100 is one of the more common ones used.

I run the Onkyo M-5010 in my set up.

Any 2 channel stereo amp will do it...even an older receiver can be used.
 
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