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Now my speakers are mounted six feet high, would dropping them down 1ft be enough? Think if I went any lower might not look the best. My surrounds are Klipsch RS-42II
 

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Now my speakers are mounted six feet high, would dropping them down 1ft be enough? Think if I went any lower might not look the best. My surrounds are Klipsch RS-42II
The Dolby Atmos guidelines recommend at or slightly above ear level. Although 5' may not be ideal aesthetically, the objective is to provide adequate separation between the surrounds and overheads so that objects in space can be accurately placed. Insufficient separation will result in inaccurate imaging in this regard. Although there is some flexibility, it's better to stay as close as possible to the guidelines...especially with low (under 8') ceilings. I also have Klipsch surrounds, RS-62II's...as I have two rows of seating with the second row on a riser, the bottom of my 62's are at exactly 4 feet. At that height, they obviously look low but deliver outstanding performance. Somehow in my darken theater, no one notices where they're mounted...just how good the immersive effects are.:)
 

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The Dolby Atmos guidelines recommend at or slightly above ear level. Although 5' may not be ideal aesthetically, the objective is to provide adequate separation between the surrounds and overheads so that objects in space can be accurately placed. Insufficient separation will result in inaccurate imaging in this regard. Although there is some flexibility, it's better to stay as close as possible to the guidelines...especially with low (under 8') ceilings. I also have Klipsch surrounds, RS-62II's...as I have two rows of seating with the second row on a riser, the bottom of my 62's are at exactly 4 feet. At that height, they obviously look low but deliver outstanding performance. Somehow in my darken theater, no one notices where they're mounted...just how good the immersive effects are.:)
My ceiling height is right at 7ft 9" I could drop the bottom of the speakers to 4ft , Going to have to find another spot for my DVD storage, right now it sits under my right surround. Had to move it once allready when I got my dual PB16s! which was probably the best upgrade I did so far,but I am enjoying the benefit of the two atmos speakers so four should be really nice:)Atlantic Technology makes a really good atmos speaker!
 

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Now my speakers are mounted six feet high, would dropping them down 1ft be enough? Think if I went any lower might not look the best. My surrounds are Klipsch RS-42II


I agree with Gene here. It will be worth the effort. They might look too low, but you’ll get used to it, and once you’re “immersed” it won’t matter at all. Fwiw, the original spec for surrounds is no more than 1.25x the height of the mains. Ie: 39”x1.25=48.75. I have seen a revised version that recommends up to 1.5 iirc. This is to better allow clearance of people’s heads and seat backs And still maintain good imaging across more seats.
 

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I agree with Gene here. It will be worth the effort. They might look too low, but you’ll get used to it, and once you’re “immersed” it won’t matter at all. Fwiw, the original spec for surrounds is no more than 1.25x the height of the mains. Ie: 39”x1.25=48.75. I have seen a revised version that recommends up to 1.5 iirc. This is to better allow clearance of people’s heads and seat backs And still maintain good imaging across more seats.
I will be installing my atmos speakers tomorrow and should be able to get started on lowering my surrounds also. Still don't have my amp to add to my system so I can power the rear atmos.
 

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One step at a time right? I have all my Atmos speakers but no avr or cables... soon.
That reminds me I have my rca cables coming for my amp tomorrow! I have some nice 6ft rca cables but ordered some 3ft ones. Don't want all that extra cable hanging. I should have my amp in a couple weeks so I might just not use my rear surrounds until then. I originally ordered the amp to power my rear atmos but will probably use it to power my front towers and use the receivers amps to power everything else.
 

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I thought Netflix Atmos streaming was limited to new LG TV's and the XBox platforms. Is it all platforms, now?
It's avail on windows 10 PC now too.

Where do you get the information that Netflix's Atmos is limited to 5.1.4?
It is my understanding that Netflix at the minimum is broadcasting 7.1.4 Atmos.

I spoke to two people today that delivered shows in that format.

I will confirm with them next week.
Netflix is delivering the Atmos content with DD+ 5.1. If it were 7 channels, wouldn't the audio be TrueHD and not DD+?
 

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It's avail on windows 10 PC now too.









Netflix is delivering the Atmos content with DD+ 5.1. If it were 7 channels, wouldn't the audio be TrueHD and not DD+?

No.

DD+ is capable of 7.1 also.

As I said I spoke who two people who have delivered shows to Netflix. 7.1.4 on both.

You can not do Atmos without a 7.1.2 bed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Dan’s suggestion is a good one...

An alternate method of joining wire is soldering and using heat shrink tubing to insulate if you know someone with the skills and tools. In either case/method, there is zero effect on sound quality.
+1. A joint in a speaker wire is fine, so long as it is a good joint. Applies to all connections really I guess. Audiofools say it degrades the SQ but obviously it doesn't.
 

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That reminds me I have my rca cables coming for my amp tomorrow! I have some nice 6ft rca cables but ordered some 3ft ones. Don't want all that extra cable hanging. I should have my amp in a couple weeks so I might just not use my rear surrounds until then. I originally ordered the amp to power my rear atmos but will probably use it to power my front towers and use the receivers amps to power everything else.


Yeah, this is a good chance to get an amp for your mains(if that’s ever been a point of interest). I use a Yamaha p2500s for mine, and will use a Denon x4400. Crowns get love too and pro amps can be had for less. But some don’t like the looks.
 

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+1. A joint in a speaker wire is fine, so long as it is a good joint. Applies to all connections really I guess. Audiofools say it degrades the SQ but obviously it doesn't.
If this were the case, all residential and commercial wiring at the switches and receptacles joined with wire nuts would be degraded...not to mention all the solder joints securing components on a printed circuit board.:)
 
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If this were the case, all residential and commercial wiring at the switches and receptacles joined with wire nuts would be degraded...not to mention all the solder joints securing components on a printed circuit board.:)
Exactly. But you know what 'audiophiles' are like. They will swear that any sort of join in the wire will degrade the sound. Some even say that if one speaker cable is 3ft shorter than another, you can hear the degraded sound in terms of poor imaging etc. LOL. :)

It's a bit OT, but here's a reply I gave to someone who was concerned that a cable length difference of about 20 inches would cause a problem:

The speed of light in vacuum is 2.998 × 108 m/s, which is approximately equal to 1 ft/ns. In cable, the speed of an electrical signal is about 2/3 of this, or about 8 in/ns.

So for 100 feet of cable, the signal will take 150 nanoseconds to go from one end to the other. That is 150 thousand millionths of one second.
So for 1ft of cable, the signal ‘travel time’ will be 1.5 nanoseconds.

For your half metre of cable difference, the sound will be delayed by 1.5 ft (approx.) which is 2.2ns. Or 2.2 thousand millionths of one second. IOW, the sound from the shorter cable will arrive at your ears roughly 2.2ns before the sound from the longer cable.

The Hass Effect states: When a sound is followed by another sound separated by a sufficiently short time delay, listeners perceive a single fused auditory image. This ‘sufficiently short time’ is 2ms. 2 thousands of one second.

So for sounds which arrive within 2ms of each other, the brain hears them as a single sound.

Light travels 299,792,458 metres in one second. Signal travels 2/3 of that speed - 199,861,638 metres in 1 second. So you’d need a cable 99,930 m long for a delay of 2ms – the shortest delay you could actually hear. That means you’d have to have one cable 62 miles (99,930m) longer than the other for you to hear the issue. I am betting that 0.5m won’t actually be audible therefore :).


62 miles of additional cable for an audible difference! :)

BTW, I'm no mathematician, so my figures may be off - but the principle holds good. The cable would need to be miles longer than its stablemate for any difference to be heard.
 

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Exactly. But you know what 'audiophiles' are like. They will swear that any sort of join in the wire will degrade the sound. Some even say that if one speaker cable is 3ft shorter than another, you can hear the degraded sound in terms of poor imaging etc. LOL. :)

It's a bit OT, but here's a reply I gave to someone who was concerned that a cable length difference of about 20 inches would cause a problem:

The speed of light in vacuum is 2.998 × 108 m/s, which is approximately equal to 1 ft/ns. In cable, the speed of an electrical signal is about 2/3 of this, or about 8 in/ns.

So for 100 feet of cable, the signal will take 150 nanoseconds to go from one end to the other. That is 150 thousand millionths of one second.
So for 1ft of cable, the signal ‘travel time’ will be 1.5 nanoseconds.

For your half metre of cable difference, the sound will be delayed by 1.5 ft (approx.) which is 2.2ns. Or 2.2 thousand millionths of one second. IOW, the sound from the shorter cable will arrive at your ears roughly 2.2ns before the sound from the longer cable.

The Hass Effect states: When a sound is followed by another sound separated by a sufficiently short time delay, listeners perceive a single fused auditory image. This ‘sufficiently short time’ is 2ms. 2 thousands of one second.

So for sounds which arrive within 2ms of each other, the brain hears them as a single sound.

Light travels 299,792,458 metres in one second. Signal travels 2/3 of that speed - 199,861,638 metres in 1 second. So you’d need a cable 99,930 m long for a delay of 2ms – the shortest delay you could actually hear. That means you’d have to have one cable 62 miles (99,930m) longer than the other for you to hear the issue. I am betting that 0.5m won’t actually be audible therefore :).


62 miles of additional cable for an audible difference! :)

BTW, I'm no mathematician, so my figures may be off - but the principle holds good. The cable would need to be miles longer than its stablemate for any difference to be heard.
OT is not necessarily a bad thing...it's sometimes needed or required to break up monotony, provide additional understanding, or offer a welcomed diversion. In this case, for me, it did two things...(1) interjected some humor and (2) saved me the trouble of having to look up the definition of "audiofool.":D Thanks Keith! And now back to our regularly scheduled program.:)
 

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and (2) saved me the trouble of having to look up the definition of "audiofool.":D Thanks Keith! And now back to our regularly scheduled program.:)
I really love "audiofool", hadn't heard it before, will use it a lot :)
 

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I really love "audiofool", hadn't heard it before, will use it a lot :)
+1 LOL...me too! But you "chaps" in the UK have always had a way with words and language...Winston Churchill in particular!:)
 

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+1. A joint in a speaker wire is fine, so long as it is a good joint. Applies to all connections really I guess. Audiofools say it degrades the SQ but obviously it doesn't.
[bold emphasis mine to show what part I'm addressing]

Interestingly these same people say the input selector knob, the speaker output pair selector [A, B, and A+B], and all the dozens if not hundreds of solder points inside their gear is above reproach, however if you suggest to them using external versions of these they are always trash talked as being "sound degraders", at least if their use is to conduct a blind comparison test.
 

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No.

DD+ is capable of 7.1 also.

As I said I spoke who two people who have delivered shows to Netflix. 7.1.4 on both.

You can not do Atmos without a 7.1.2 bed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yes, one of my atmos demo discs has both TrueHD and DD+ 7.1 tracks, so that makes sense.

When you say that you can not do atmos without a 7.1.2 bed, is that from an authoring or streaming perspective?

I guess my confusion comes from reports from other xbox and PC users that the atmos audio streams were inputting DD+ 5.1. Also I've seen rips of some the shows and they're DD+ 5.1 with atmos. Which is strange, because I didn't think it was possible to do atmos with less than 7 channels either, but it works.

Information from Netflix is very limited on the subject. I see no mention of the actual channels delivered anywhere on their site.
 
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