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Hi everyone!

I've had an XMC-1 for a couple of years, and traded it for the XMC-2 last week. Sound quality is noticeable better, and the bass management seems better as well. Have only used it for TV, movies and Xbox so far.

The first 4 or 5 days itt was great, but the past couple of days I've experienced some stability issues, menu freezing and lock ups. Most of them have happened while I was in the menu making some changes. But the worst of them just happened in the middle of a movie with zero input from me or the remote. Not sure what triggered it. Anyone else experiencing similar issues?

The video starts about two minutes after it froze and ceased to pass audio.

Although the XMC-2 is much more stable now with firmware 2.1, mine does lock up in weird states occasionally. I've never seen your exact symptoms ... that was weird.

Do you use Video Remains On Mode? I think the longer the processor goes, being turned on and off in VRO Mode, the more likely it is to get into some lockup state. It sometimes happens to me when going in and out of menus, but sometimes it happens when the processor has been on but not playing for a couple hours.

Hard reboot is always the answer. In my case, sometimes it takes a "cold dead" reboot ... 6-second press, turn off rear power switch, pull line cord, disconnect all HDMI cables, wait 5-10min; then reconnect line cord only and turn on rear switch. If it comes up clean, reconnect HDMI. About 10% of the time now (used to be more) I still get an error on power-up, but a second attempt works. Then it's fine for a week or two.
 

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Known issue -- post on the Emotiva Forum for more info. Most of the action is over there on issues and updates.
 

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Although the XMC-2 is much more stable now with firmware 2.1, mine does lock up in weird states occasionally. I've never seen your exact symptoms ... that was weird.

Do you use Video Remains On Mode? I think the longer the processor goes, being turned on and off in VRO Mode, the more likely it is to get into some lockup state. It sometimes happens to me when going in and out of menus, but sometimes it happens when the processor has been on but not playing for a couple hours.

Hard reboot is always the answer. In my case, sometimes it takes a "cold dead" reboot ... 6-second press, turn off rear power switch, pull line cord, disconnect all HDMI cables, wait 5-10min; then reconnect line cord only and turn on rear switch. If it comes up clean, reconnect HDMI. About 10% of the time now (used to be more) I still get an error on power-up, but a second attempt works. Then it's fine for a week or two.
Just checked and it looks like I'm on FW 2.0. I have a friend who works there and he is saying the same thing... 2.1 improved things dramatically. Updating now.
 

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Just checked and it looks like I'm on FW 2.0. I have a friend who works there and he is saying the same thing... 2.1 improved things dramatically. Updating now.
Be sure to backup settings and do a factory reset and cold reboot at the end.
 

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I use dirac on my xmc2, works pretty good, but now on 2.1 The levels on The fronts is standing on The same level! Buth IF I measure with rew its are 2db between The fronts! IF I go up and down in level its fine! Every time i go back or do something I must go up and down in levels!
 

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I am considering upgrading from my MRX-720 to XMC-2 basically just like @asharma. I don't need ARC / eARC. So this thing's pretty stable now?

Once you run Dirac, can you edit any of the settings in the Dirac preset after? Like for some reason if you wanted to adjust speaker levels or change PEQ in the Diract preset without abandoning everything, is this possible?

Speaker presets contain which speakers are enabled, right? For example in preset1 I could have full 7.3.4 but in preset2 I could have just 2 front, 2 surrounds and 3 subs, right?

I need volume control for all 3 sub outputs (because some sub outputs are actually shakers not subs). I would just set all the subs to "mono" right? What's the difference between "mono" and "dual mono"?

I'm also considering a Trinnov Altitude 16, but this is like 99% of what I need. The Trinnov lacks the double bass feature, which (again because I have shakers) I plan to use. The Emotiva has only 2 presets, the Altitude has 29. The Trinnov doesn't have an "all channel stereo" equivalent, believe it or not.

How much delay is there in sound when switching presets?
 

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I am considering upgrading from my MRX-720 to XMC-2 basically just like @asharma. I don't need ARC / eARC. So this thing's pretty stable now?

Once you run Dirac, can you edit any of the settings in the Dirac preset after? Like for some reason if you wanted to adjust speaker levels or change PEQ in the Diract preset without abandoning everything, is this possible?

Speaker presets contain which speakers are enabled, right? For example in preset1 I could have full 7.3.4 but in preset2 I could have just 2 front, 2 surrounds and 3 subs, right?

I need volume control for all 3 sub outputs (because some sub outputs are actually shakers not subs). I would just set all the subs to "mono" right? What's the difference between "mono" and "dual mono"?

I'm also considering a Trinnov Altitude 16, but this is like 99% of what I need. The Trinnov lacks the double bass feature, which (again because I have shakers) I plan to use. The Emotiva has only 2 presets, the Altitude has 29. The Trinnov doesn't have an "all channel stereo" equivalent, believe it or not.

How much delay is there in sound when switching presets?
Okay, step at a time I'll answer. But I also recommend downloading the manual from the Emotiva site.

1 - Set up each of the two Presets with their speaker configuration. Like you said, you can do 7.3.2 in Preset1 and 4.3 in Preset2.
2 - Each Preset has one User EQ "slot" and three Dirac slots. So you can store a set of Parametric EQ filters in the User slot and up to three different Dirac filter sets. This is per Preset, so 1/3 for Preset1 and 1/3 for Preset2.
3 - You can change Presets from the remote with one button, and it takes a couple seconds to switch. But to change slots within a Preset, you have to go to the Menu>Setup>Speakers>Preset>Equalization. It's a few steps and you can do this with the remote and the on-screen display.
4 - Level settings affect all slots in a Preset. Distance settings in a Preset only affect the User EQ slot, and not Dirac.
5 - When you do Dirac calibration you will see all the speakers in the Preset and they will be measured individually, including subs. You can place them in logical groups (L/R Front, L/R Surround, Center, etc)
6 - Dirac will suggest a target correction curve for each group, but you can modify the curve any way you want. You can save the curves for future calibrations.
7 - Dirac shows a predicted response after correction, but it does not measure the actual correction. For that you would have to do a separate measurement in a program like Room EQ Wizard.
8 - After you have saved Dirac slots, you can go back and open a project in Dirac (which includes the measurement data) and modify the target curves and save new filter sets. So you don't have to go through the whole measurement process again just to adjust the curves.
9 - Subs! First, I think you don't want Dirac doing anything with the shakers. Just leave them out of the Preset when you do calibration. If you have one sub and two shakers, you can connect the sub to Center Sub output Mono and do your Dirac calibration, and then afterward connect your shakers to Left/Right Sub outputs and set the mode to Dual Mono. Dual Mono is for when you have subs connected to both Left and Right Sub outputs (even though they are not really literally left/right, but always mono). There are separate Level controls per Preset for all speakers including the three sub outputs.

All the other alternatives cost a good bit more money ... so for the price you do get a lot with an XMC/RMC.
 

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Okay, step at a time I'll answer. But I also recommend downloading the manual from the Emotiva site.

1 - Set up each of the two Presets with their speaker configuration. Like you said, you can do 7.3.2 in Preset1 and 4.3 in Preset2.
2 - Each Preset has one User EQ "slot" and three Dirac slots. So you can store a set of Parametric EQ filters in the User slot and up to three different Dirac filter sets. This is per Preset, so 1/3 for Preset1 and 1/3 for Preset2.
3 - You can change Presets from the remote with one button, and it takes a couple seconds to switch. But to change slots within a Preset, you have to go to the Menu>Setup>Speakers>Preset>Equalization. It's a few steps and you can do this with the remote and the on-screen display.
4 - Level settings affect all slots in a Preset. Distance settings in a Preset only affect the User EQ slot, and not Dirac.
5 - When you do Dirac calibration you will see all the speakers in the Preset and they will be measured individually, including subs. You can place them in logical groups (L/R Front, L/R Surround, Center, etc)
6 - Dirac will suggest a target correction curve for each group, but you can modify the curve any way you want. You can save the curves for future calibrations.
7 - Dirac shows a predicted response after correction, but it does not measure the actual correction. For that you would have to do a separate measurement in a program like Room EQ Wizard.
8 - After you have saved Dirac slots, you can go back and open a project in Dirac (which includes the measurement data) and modify the target curves and save new filter sets. So you don't have to go through the whole measurement process again just to adjust the curves.
9 - Subs! First, I think you don't want Dirac doing anything with the shakers. Just leave them out of the Preset when you do calibration. If you have one sub and two shakers, you can connect the sub to Center Sub output Mono and do your Dirac calibration, and then afterward connect your shakers to Left/Right Sub outputs and set the mode to Dual Mono. Dual Mono is for when you have subs connected to both Left and Right Sub outputs (even though they are not really literally left/right, but always mono). There are separate Level controls per Preset for all speakers including the three sub outputs.

All the other alternatives cost a good bit more money ... so for the price you do get a lot with an XMC/RMC.
Thank you. I have read the whole manual as well as the IP control manual. I'm going to reference your post with the manual and see if I can make sense of some of it. Specifically, the presets + user slots vs diract filter slots. It looked to me like you have 3 presets. 2 are user presets 1 is a dirac preset. The flow you describe seems a lot different (but still workable). Perhaps I'm getting presets and profiles confused.
 

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Thank you. I have read the whole manual as well as the IP control manual. I'm going to reference your post with the manual and see if I can make sense of some of it. Specifically, the presets + user slots vs diract filter slots. It looked to me like you have 3 presets. 2 are user presets 1 is a dirac preset. The flow you describe seems a lot different (but still workable). Perhaps I'm getting presets and profiles confused.
Actually not quite right. It is confusing. There is Preset 1 and Preset 2. Each preset has a speaker configuration, crossovers and Levels. Each Preset has four equalization slots: one User PEQ, and three Dirac. So total with both Presets you have two User slots and six Dirac slots.

So for example I have Preset 1 for video and it has a sub configured. It has three Dirac slots, where I keep two previous but generally use the most recent. You could have three different Dirac filter sets for different programming. Then I have Preset 2 for music which does not have a sub configured. It also has three Dirac slots which could have different curves for different music.
 

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Actually not quite right. It is confusing. There is Preset 1 and Preset 2. Each preset has a speaker configuration, crossovers and Levels. Each Preset has four equalization slots: one User PEQ, and three Dirac. So total with both Presets you have two User slots and six Dirac slots.

So for example I have Preset 1 for video and it has a sub configured. It has three Dirac slots, where I keep two previous but generally use the most recent. You could have three different Dirac filter sets for different programming. Then I have Preset 2 for music which does not have a sub configured. It also has three Dirac slots which could have different curves for different music.
I see, thank you.
 

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How does the actual menu look on the screen? Is it full screen and easy to navigate? Or it is just one line like the JBL Synthesis and as if the whole TV viewport was a teeny tiny one line display?
 

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How does the actual menu look on the screen? Is it full screen and easy to navigate? Or it is just one line like the JBL Synthesis and as if the whole TV viewport was a teeny tiny one line display?
It's large enough to easily see on the TV, but it basically looks like the menu display on the processor.
 

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Integra DTR40.3, Monitor Gold 60, Oppo, Xbox X, PS4 Pro, TIVO HD Premier and SONY 400 Mega Disc
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Hello Everyone
I have be looking at the XMC-2 to upgrade my system and use Dirac with Bass Control Multi Sub. I dislike Audyssey it never sounds good.
My current system consist of 5.1 (Integra DTR 40.3, Monitor Audio Gold 60 LCR and Bronze 6T rear and Klipsch 12 Sub ) to 7.2.4 (Monitor Audio Gold 60 LCR, Bronze 6T rear, Side Surrounds Monitor Audio CP-CT380, Height Speakers 4 Monitor Audio CP-CT260 and Dual Subs SVS SB-3000. Room Size is (12ft H X 16ft W and 18.5ft L).
Should I steer clear of this unit? If so what would you recommend even if it is a different brand?
 

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Hi guys,

I was thinking of using an integrated amp for my FLFR channels with HT bypass to the XMC-2. In this configuration is there any way I can keep using Dirac for the 2 channel application and also the 5.1 application?

Thanks.
 

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Hello Everyone
I have be looking at the XMC-2 to upgrade my system and use Dirac with Bass Control Multi Sub. I dislike Audyssey it never sounds good.
My current system consist of 5.1 (Integra DTR 40.3, Monitor Audio Gold 60 LCR and Bronze 6T rear and Klipsch 12 Sub ) to 7.2.4 (Monitor Audio Gold 60 LCR, Bronze 6T rear, Side Surrounds Monitor Audio CP-CT380, Height Speakers 4 Monitor Audio CP-CT260 and Dual Subs SVS SB-3000. Room Size is (12ft H X 16ft W and 18.5ft L).
Should I steer clear of this unit? If so what would you recommend even if it is a different brand?
Around this price class, Monoprice HTP-1 is currently the only one with fully working Dirac Live Bass Control. Emotiva has not released info how long it will take before RMC-1/XMC-2 gets DLBC, so it may take a long time before it's available and even longer before it's fully working.
 

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I hope there are more Emo XMC-2 owners out there. I own one and I am very happy with the sound quality, getting use to the slow HDMI lock on. My only concern is with the pops and clicks when changing channels or switching tracks.
Not sure if they hurt my B&W 805 D3's. Also when playing CD's (via AES/EBU) every track change cuts the first second of the song. I use an Anthem STR Preamp in the chain for music now. Anyone else experience this?
Mine had a runaway volume increase that destroyed my Dunlavy $3500 center channel speaker.
 

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OK, got mine one week ago and here are my impressions so far...
First of all, I am running a pretty basic setup, 3 video input sources; Oppo 103D BR player, Oppo 203 BR player and DIRECTV. I do occasionally stream from Netflix or VUDU through the Oppo 103.
2 audio input sources; my Rega turntable and the analog and digital outputs from the Oppo 203. I’m sure I will stream music through it at some point but I have a Sonos setup that covers the house well for that right now.

The BAD:
  • For some unknown reason they neglected to install the ‘PUSH’ tab locks on the XLR inputs. Very odd.
  • I have experienced HDMI handshake problems when switching from sources that are on and running, specifically from the input with DIRECTV on it to the input with the Oppo BDM-103D. I have experienced audio with no video and vice versa. I found that if I have leave the Oppo off then switch to that input before turning the player on it syncs up perfectly so I am just keeping that in mind for now.

The GOOD:
  • 2 channel stereo is magnificent. I listen to a lot of vinyl and do so with nothing but my main L and R speakers, no sub. It sounds much better than the Yamaha CX-A5200 that this may be replacing and the Yammy sounds pretty damn good. Somehow the sound is both a bit softer yet more detailed and precise. A good example would be the track So What on Miles Davis’ Kind Of Blue album. There are a couple of moments in the song where Miles and Coltrane are playing at the same time and in the past it has sounded a bit edgy. No harsh but close to it. With the EMO it is absolutely smooth as silk and the trumpet and sax sound more accurate. The decay of each note is clearer and more sustained. I mainly listen to rock bit this is the best example I have heard so far.
  • Surround Sound has more impact. I find it is hard to do a true comparison with this because I can’t listen to the Yammy then quickly listen to the EMO but the sound seems to have more impact with the EMO. When the front 3 channels light up, they really light up. Crisp, clear and precise. I had the Yamaha professionally calibrated a few months ago so I just copied the EQ settings, distance and volume level for each channel from what the Yamaha was set at. I’ve made some tweaks here and there but overall am pretty close to the Yamaha settings. I feel like the surround and rear surrounds are not as active when things are calm on the screen. When the action starts up they do too though. It actually feels more accurate to what I am seeing with my eyes. Again, it is difficult to do a side by side though. Just watching films I know really well and have a solid memory of the soundscape on.

The PERSONAL PREFERENCE:
  • The metal remote. Useless and a waste of money in my opinion. I would much rather have a plastic remote control that is backlit.
  • The menu system. It is very basic but also very easy to navigate and intuitive. I kind of liked the graphics of the Yamaha though. For instance, the Yamaha showed my the EQ slopes on a full frequency band display, the EMO just lets you pick the frequency and make the adjustments. Very functional but not as elegant. I would compare the EMO menu system to DOS as far as what you see. This is a minor gripe though. As I said, it is pretty intuitive and easy to navigate once you get a feel for it. Just no frills.

I think that’s what I have for now. I’ll update as I discover more bads and goods.

I spoke to Emotiva today about the 2 BAD items listed above. They are trying to decide what to do about the missing tabs on the inputs and gave me the company line of, ‘we are constantly working on ways to improve the HDMI handshake idiosyncrasies’ in reference to the switching problems. I‘m not thrilled about sending it back to get the tabs installed but if I have to, I have to. They need to be there. The inputs from my Phono Pre Amp are in there pretty solidly but I want the tabs. I’m not sure if they can be snapped in from the outside of the backplate or if it requires some disassembly. Either way I am inclined to let them do it so the work is completely covered by the warranty.

Overall, I really like it and will most likely keep it. I am in no rush to make a decision though. I confirmed that the 30 day return window does not begin until the Dirac is delivered and that seems to have no imminent release date.

If anyone has any questions please ask away. I have played around with it pretty extensively over the past few days and may be able to answer them.

-Jeff
Often mine will not turn on or off with the front button. Must use the remote. Reboot is required regularly. Response time to inputs is pitiful. Frankly I don't think the company is up to this software this complex.
 

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Although the XMC-2 is much more stable now with firmware 2.1, mine does lock up in weird states occasionally. I've never seen your exact symptoms ... that was weird.

Do you use Video Remains On Mode? I think the longer the processor goes, being turned on and off in VRO Mode, the more likely it is to get into some lockup state. It sometimes happens to me when going in and out of menus, but sometimes it happens when the processor has been on but not playing for a couple hours.

Hard reboot is always the answer. In my case, sometimes it takes a "cold dead" reboot ... 6-second press, turn off rear power switch, pull line cord, disconnect all HDMI cables, wait 5-10min; then reconnect line cord only and turn on rear switch. If it comes up clean, reconnect HDMI. About 10% of the time now (used to be more) I still get an error on power-up, but a second attempt works. Then it's fine for a week or two.
That's the way I would design the product. I would expect more from Emotiva, however.
 

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Well I'm planning on ordering an XMC 2 Later this week. I really hope it's not as buggy as I'm reading here. I'm stretching the budget as it is. I don't want to (can't) drop another grand on the HTP-1.
 
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Well I'm planning on ordering an XMC 2 Later this week. I really hope it's not as buggy as I'm reading here. I'm stretching the budget as it is. I don't want to (can't) drop another grand on the HTP-1.
In all honesty the extra grand towards the HTP-1 will make you life so much easier. I came from the XMC-1 with HDMI board upgrade and have had issues upon every use. I got a good deal on the XMC-1 a few years back and for the HTP-1 had to pay full price but based on functionality, sound and features it has eased the pain of spending so much without any discount.
 
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