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I have a Carver M500t that I bought as a kid and still have. It was recently refreshed at Hi-Tech Audio. I'm hoping it's a good start or I will be looking for an alternative at some point.
 
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I have a Carver M500t that I bought as a kid and still have. It was recently refreshed at Hi-Tech Audio. I'm hoping it's a good start or I will be looking for an alternative at some point.
I knew this was a classic amp by Carver and looked up the specs. This should be a very good start. The amp can go down to 2 ohm based on what I read. The main spec I look at if amp can drive Maggies is the power rating from 8 to 4 ohm. Amp also has cool needles so you can see them dance


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I knew this was a classic amp by Carver and looked up the specs. This should be a very good start. The amp can go down to 2 ohm based on what I read. The main spec I look at if amp can drive Maggies is the power rating from 8 to 4 ohm. Amp also has cool needles so you can see them dance


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I‘ve been searching for another but no luck. I’m picky when it comes to cosmetics. The one I have now I replaced the faceplate because it had a small nick. There’s a great Ebay‘er selling newly milled faceplates that are fantastic. It’s not cheap getting it worked on so I’m hoping to get lucky to find one without breaking the bank so I can send it out to be worked on. And the meters are my favorite part. LOL!

Before new faceplate.
3075656


3075657
 
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In Magnepan (almost) news today. There are several pinko commie countries from the Soviet block era now producing loudspeakers. Some are actually surprisingly good. There is an Estonian company Estelon , then there are the low cost high quality speakers from the Lithuanian Audio Solutions , just to name a few. Nothing good ever came out of my old stomping ground Russia, though. There are a few good efforts, but nothing worth mentioning and definitely nothing that penetrated even the European market, let alone American market.
There is also this Hungarian company Popori. They make only one model, the WR1. They look like Magnepans, but operate more like Martin Logans minus the woofers. Interestingly enough, their frequency response is almost flat with only a -1dB at 25Hz and sensitivity of 90dB, which , if true, will outperform Maggies as far as bass response and possibly dynamics are concerned.
They are a bit different from Magnepans, which is reflected in their price.

The membrane material is UV-resistant, moderately heat-resistant, humidity independent, which ensures long-term operation. This membrane weighs much less than the membrane of speakers made with other technologies on the market. Thanks to the push-pull electrostatic operating principle, its efficiency is extraordinary. Properly tuned and attenuated construction guarantees low distortion of the radiated sound which provides the opportunity for perfect sound reproduction.
The panels are fixed with screws. The disadvantages of gluing are eliminated at all points where it can cause deterioration or even loss of sound quality and performance over time.
Their full specs:
Price: 36,000 Euro
Frequency response: 25-30 000 Hz, 300 Hz to 10 kHz +/- 1 dB
Sensitivity: 90dB
Maximum sound pressure: 110 dB
Impedance: min. 4 Ohm max. 8 Ohm
THD: <0.1%
Weight: 49 kg
Panel dimensions: H=1750 mm W=540 mm L=36 mm
Full dimensions: H=1793 mm W=540 mm L=436 mm

124155392_109435484310199_8295891906384970984_o-1.jpg FUNSTATIC-2.png FUNSTATIC-3.png FUNSTATIC-4.png Screenshot 2021-01-06 at 22.43.56.png Screenshot 2021-01-06 at 22.50.08.png Screenshot 2021-01-06 at 22.50.16.png Screenshot 2021-01-06 at 22.50.24.png
 

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In Magnepan (almost) news today. There are several pinko commie countries from the Soviet block era now producing loudspeakers. Some are actually surprisingly good. There is an Estonian company Estelon , then there are the low cost high quality speakers from the Lithuanian Audio Solutions , just to name a few. Nothing good ever came out of my old stomping ground Russia, though. There are a few good efforts, but nothing worth mentioning and definitely nothing that penetrated even the European market, let alone American market.
There is also this Hungarian company Popori. They make only one model, the WR1. They look like Magnepans, but operate more like Martin Logans minus the woofers. Interestingly enough, their frequency response is almost flat with only a -1dB at 25Hz and sensitivity of 90dB, which , if true, will outperform Maggies as far as bass response and possibly dynamics are concerned.
They are a bit different from Magnepans, which is reflected in their price.



Their full specs:
Price: 36,000 Euro
Frequency response: 25-30 000 Hz, 300 Hz to 10 kHz +/- 1 dB
Sensitivity: 90dB
Maximum sound pressure: 110 dB
Impedance: min. 4 Ohm max. 8 Ohm
THD: <0.1%
Weight: 49 kg
Panel dimensions: H=1750 mm W=540 mm L=36 mm
Full dimensions: H=1793 mm W=540 mm L=436 mm

View attachment 3076074 View attachment 3076075 View attachment 3076076 View attachment 3076077 View attachment 3076078 View attachment 3076079 View attachment 3076080 View attachment 3076081
You forgot to mention how much my SVS SB3000 sub is loved there too:)
 

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I had been away from all of my stuff for seven or eight months while in the garage doing a mechanical refresh on a recently acquired collector car. I still listened, but only on the little garage system. It keeps me from throwing tools :) and the neighbors can't hear me fart unless I'm really really good and ripe that day. So well worth it (to them).

Now that winter is here, back to the systems in the house and back to the LRSs. I still find them just as refreshing to listen to as they were before and still quite happy, given the cost. Nothing else that I know of remotely close to that price range that I'd rather have. For folks who have never owned dipoles before, there's an acclimation period as you probably discovered. Plus, the challenges of positioning.
August 2021
Anyone going? Will Magnepan be there? How's Wendell Diller doing?
Scotth3886, you dustin' off the Caddie for a Road Trip :)
 

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You forgot to mention how much my SVS SB3000 sub is loved there too:)
Well, I meant the gear designed and made there. But you are right , they love EMotiva and SVS there. To them you couldn't do better.
 

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I have a question about room correction and Magnepan speakers.

Do people here have experience with Dirac + Maggie speakers?

I recently got an Emotiva XMC-1 to play along with my old Magnepan 3.6r + CC3 + MC1. Although I have run Dirac only once on them, and maybe it needs tweaking....but my first impression was that Dirac made Maggies sound exactly like box speakers. All the Maggie magic was extinguished immediately. All the nice open sound stage and "they are in this room" feeling went away. I now can easily hear where the sound is coming from, the speakers. Otherwise the Maggies simply disappear. I can turn off Dirac and the imaging goes back to what I like.

Maybe Dirac (and for that matter all room correction) is designed for normal box speakers, so that is the sound what they are steering for.

Is there a solution?
 

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Well, I meant the gear designed and made there. But you are right , they love EMotiva and SVS there. To them you couldn't do better.
Oh.. I almost forgot, they Love those Klipsch Horns too :)

Scroll to the bottom for delivery to Moscow

One of these days I hope the Magnepan lovers will join us here again.
Damned Covid-19 :(
 

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It is a small world. I listed my WireWorld speaker cables for sale. It took just 4 hours. The guy who bought my Eminent Technology LFT8b two years ago bought these WireWorlds as well. Just pinged me, then called , then arrived 15 minutes later. Small world indeed.
 

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I have a question about room correction and Magnepan speakers.

Do people here have experience with Dirac + Maggie speakers?

I recently got an Emotiva XMC-1 to play along with my old Magnepan 3.6r + CC3 + MC1. Although I have run Dirac only once on them, and maybe it needs tweaking....but my first impression was that Dirac made Maggies sound exactly like box speakers. All the Maggie magic was extinguished immediately. All the nice open sound stage and "they are in this room" feeling went away. I now can easily hear where the sound is coming from, the speakers. Otherwise the Maggies simply disappear. I can turn off Dirac and the imaging goes back to what I like.

Maybe Dirac (and for that matter all room correction) is designed for normal box speakers, so that is the sound what they are steering for.

Is there a solution?
You could just not use Dirac Live.

Room correction programs do not know what speaker is in play and do not care. The corrections should work the same for any speaker. But a lot of people find out they do not like the effect, which provides

I abandoned my XMC-1 (and Emotiva processors) but used an XMC-1 with a Magnepan-based 7.1 system very similar to yours and Dirac Live sounded great to me. Way better than not using it. However, I have a modestly-sized room, with some of its own acoustic issues, and really hate comb filter effects, so the back wave was damped in my setup.

The XMC-1 has an issue with the way it handles crossovers so the bass around the crossover point be vexing to solve. Dirac Live knows nothing of crossovers, and the way Emotiva set up the signal path, Dirac Live is not able to correct for crossover phase and such. Most folk have to manually measure and adjust (other Dirac Live AVRs/AVPs do not have this problem).

There are so many variables in applying room correction that it is really hard to say what be wrong or right in your case. The Maggies may simply be emphasizing frequencies you like to hear brought out and Dirac Live is bringing them down. Or it is correcting some first reflections that you like since they add "space" to the sound. The corrected sound may be more accurate but you do not like it as much. Etc.

What target curve are you using? You can adjust it to tweak the sound, sort of a fancy tone control system.

Are you using one point or many? If many, you could try using just one point, or perhaps 3 (MLP and just right and left of the MLP), and see if that helps.

You might want to leave it for a while and see what you think after listening a bit longer. Or switch back and forth to see if you can identify exactly what changed (may be hard to do by ear).

The usual advice is to rerun Dirac Live and see if it makes any difference. If not, then without doing the measurements again (no need), save the setup into a new file, and then adjust the Dirac Live "curtains" so it only acts upon frequencies below say 200~250 Hz. That way it should correct bass modes and such but not affect the midrange and upper frequencies, letting the sound of the speakers shine through.

You may want to post in the Dirac Live or Emotiva XMC-1 threads for more advice.

HTH - Don
 

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One of my Magnepan 1.7 has lost its mid-range performance, big time! What can I do? 😭
3077686

So, here's the story:
I just bought my first Maggies, a pair of Magnepan MG 1.7
- Bought them used from a guy online and very far away from where I live (in Sweden) ...about 770 miles away.
...so I basically have no chance of returning them.
  • The rest of my equipment was playing without problems on some old Jamo-speakers, so no real problems there.
  • After unpacking and starting to play music on these planar speakers I thought the sound was great-ish... ...but ...the sound stage seems shifted to the left a bit.
  • So I start moving them around, checking the "tweeter-jumper" and the "Midrange/Tweeter Fuse"
  • Seems that voices, guitars and sounds like that are just a LOT more clear and present from the left speaker.
  • Tried shifting the speakers left to right and it was obvious that now the singer or guitarist is sitting more to the right instead. 😳
  • I've tried inspecting the membrane with a flashlight but can not see any real differences from the good working speaker.
  • No visual weird stuff going on with the caps in the crossover either from what I can see.
  • It plays the lowest and highest frequencies but somewhere in the mid range there has to be a problem with something!
What do you guys think?
Could it be the crossover?
What should I try first?
Please help! 😧😵
 

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One of my Magnepan 1.7 has lost its mid-range performance, big time! What can I do?
View attachment 3077686
So, here's the story:
I just bought my first Maggies, a pair of Magnepan MG 1.7
- Bought them used from a guy online and very far away from where I live (in Sweden) ...about 770 miles away.
...so I basically have no chance of returning them.
  • The rest of my equipment was playing without problems on some old Jamo-speakers, so no real problems there.
  • After unpacking and starting to play music on these planar speakers I thought the sound was great-ish... ...but ...the sound stage seems shifted to the left a bit.
  • So I start moving them around, checking the "tweeter-jumper" and the "Midrange/Tweeter Fuse"
  • Seems that voices, guitars and sounds like that are just a LOT more clear and present from the left speaker.
  • Tried shifting the speakers left to right and it was obvious that now the singer or guitarist is sitting more to the right instead.
  • I've tried inspecting the membrane with a flashlight but can not see any real differences from the good working speaker.
  • No visual weird stuff going on with the caps in the crossover either from what I can see.
  • It plays the lowest and highest frequencies but somewhere in the mid range there has to be a problem with something!
What do you guys think?
Could it be the crossover?
What should I try first?
Please help!
I don't know.
I suggest you call Magnepan's phone number. They are helpful to talk to...and may suggest some troubleshooting tips.

I wonder if there was shipping damage or maybe the seller was sneaky and sold you a bad speaker...just speculation now

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One of my Magnepan 1.7 has lost its mid-range performance, big time! What can I do? 😭

So, here's the story:

I just bought my first Maggies, a pair of Magnepan MG 1.7
- Bought them used from a guy online and very far away from where I live (in Sweden) ...about 770 miles away.
...so I basically have no chance of returning them.
  • The rest of my equipment was playing without problems on some old Jamo-speakers, so no real problems there.
  • After unpacking and starting to play music on these planar speakers I thought the sound was great-ish... ...but ...the sound stage seems shifted to the left a bit.
  • So I start moving them around, checking the "tweeter-jumper" and the "Midrange/Tweeter Fuse"
  • Seems that voices, guitars and sounds like that are just a LOT more clear and present from the left speaker.
  • Tried shifting the speakers left to right and it was obvious that now the singer or guitarist is sitting more to the right instead. 😳
  • I've tried inspecting the membrane with a flashlight but can not see any real differences from the good working speaker.
  • No visual weird stuff going on with the caps in the crossover either from what I can see.
  • It plays the lowest and highest frequencies but somewhere in the mid range there has to be a problem with something!
What do you guys think?
Could it be the crossover?
What should I try first?
Please help! 😧😵
The 1.7 is a three-way speaker so the midrange section is out on one speaker. What is your technical level and what tools for analysis do you have? Are you willing and/or able to disassemble the speaker?

It could be the crossover, panel conductor, or wiring (including the fuse) to that section.

Troubleshooting (depends upon your skill and test equipment):
  • With modest/quiet levels put your ear close to the speaker and move across the panel to verify it is the midrange, tweeter, or both that are out.
  • Swap or replace the fuse to make sure that is not the problem.
  • Visually inspect the crossover for bad/open connections.
  • Measure the resistance of the coils (inductors) to make sure they are not open. You can buy a cheap digital multimeter (DMM) for this. I have a $5 special I got a few years ago.
  • Measure the resistance of the sections (+ to - connections) after the crossover to see if the panel has an open section.
  • Use an LCR meter to check the inductor and capacitor values (a DMM may have a capacitor range).
  • Send pink noise or swept signal source through the speaker inputs and measure the signal across the panel sections after the crossovers. You can use the noise source from your AVR or whatever, or download test tones from the 'net. Do NOT play these loudly or for long!
You can compare results for the good and bad speaker for most of these tests.

HTH - Don
 
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The 1.7 is a three-way speaker so the midrange section is out on one speaker. What is your technical level and what tools for analysis do you have? Are you willingdisassemblemble the speaker?

It could be the crossover, panel conductor, or wiring (including the fuse) to that section.

Troubleshooting (depends upon your skill and test equipment):
  • With modest/quiet levels put your ear close to the speaker and move across the panel to verify it is the midrange, tweeter, or both that are out.
  • Swap or replace the fuse to make sure that is not the problem.
  • Visually inspect the crossover for bad/open connections.
  • Measure the resistance of the coils (inductors) to make sure they are not open. You can buy a cheap digital multimeter (DMM) for this. I have a $5 special I got a few years ago.
  • Measure the resistance of the sections (+ to - connections) after the crossover to see if the panel has an open section.
  • Use an LCR meter to check the inductor and capacitor values (a DMM may have a capacitor range).
  • Send pink noise or swept signal source through the speaker inputs and measure the signal across the panel sections after the crossovers. You can use the noise source from your AVR or whatever, or download test tones from the 'net. Do NOT play these loudly or for long!
You can compare results for the good and bad speaker for most of these tests.

HTH - Don
Thank you so much @DonH50 ! 🤗 (y)

I would say I have moderate technical level but my multimeter can't measure the caps ...but as you say, DMM:s are not expensive, so I will look into that if I don't solve the problem before I get there. :)

So for the first point, to listen across the membrane while playing low music ...I've tried this and it is really hard to define. ...is there a special part of the membrane that "plays" the midrange?
...it's kind of obvious that the tweeter is where the "wires" on the panel is more closely spaced, but low and mid, are they "placed" so that mid is in the middle of the speaker and low is on the opposite side from the tweeter maybe? :unsure:
 

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Thank you so much @DonH50 ! 🤗 (y)

I would say I have moderate technical level but my multimeter can't measure the caps ...but as you say, DMM:s are not expensive, so I will look into that if I don't solve the problem before I get there. :)

So for the first point, to listen across the membrane while playing low music ...I've tried this and it is really hard to define. ...is there a special part of the membrane that "plays" the midrange?
...it's kind of obvious that the tweeter is where the "wires" on the panel is more closely spaced, but low and mid, are they "placed" so that mid is in the middle of the speaker and low is on the opposite side from the tweeter maybe? :unsure:
I do not have a 1.7 but would second the previous suggestion to contact Magnepan.

That said, historically bass has been on one side, midrange in the middle, and treble (tweeter) on the other side of the panel, so I imagine the 1.7's are the same. If you have a source of pink noise (from your source or download a file from the Internet) you can use that, otherwise just play some music or whatever and listen across both panels. With head turned so your ear is facing the panel and just a few inches away (keep the volume down!) it should be fairly obvious which area(s) is(are) quiet. If it is just the midrange then you can narrow down your focus; if it is both mid and tweeter then it seems to me more likely to be something like a bad fuse or connection somewhere to the mid/tweeter crossover section than a bad panel (unless both mid and tweeter were taken out).
 
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I do not have a 1.7 but would second the previous suggestion to contact Magnepan.

That said, historically bass has been on one side, midrange in the middle, and treble (tweeter) on the other side of the panel, so I imagine the 1.7's are the same. If you have a source of pink noise (from your source or download a file from the Internet) you can use that, otherwise just play some music or whatever and listen across both panels. With head turned so your ear is facing the panel and just a few inches away (keep the volume down!) it should be fairly obvious which area(s) is(are) quiet. If it is just the midrange then you can narrow down your focus; if it is both mid and tweeter then it seems to me more likely to be something like a bad fuse or connection somewhere to the mid/tweeter crossover section than a bad panel (unless both mid and tweeter were taken out).
Thanks again!
Tone-sweep 20 to 20kHz makes a sound without any "drop out" in the midrange, but while listening to pink noice or music and moving my ear across the panel it is kind of obvious that the midrange is in the middle of the panel and that it is silent (I only over-hear the bass and tweeter)
So thanks for that tip Don! :)

I guess it's time to start blowing it apart! 😅

Does anyone know how to remove the black aluminum sides?
...all instructions I find seem to cover how to remove wood trim. 💣
Nevermind! It was really easy to just pry them out! 😅
 

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So, I found out why my midrange was quiet. ...the lead has been sheered off physically: 😳 :eek:

3078104

Any ideas on how to repair this? Anyone?
Soldering seems a bit brutal... o_O
 

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