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It is not very obvious from the picture what exactly is wrong. Are you seeing that the track / ribbon over there is broken?
You could check with the continuity testing option in a multimeter to see if there is any connection before and after that crack.

And if it is that is the case, you could probably solder a small wire and short that Gap

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
 

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Was it cut accidentally ? I suggest to contact magnepan for a potential repair kit.
Otherwise I would go for a small piece of ruban (aluminium?) and conductive glue. But this based on what I can see from the picture.
 

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Did you measure across the connectors to make sure it is actually open?

The "lead" looks like a patterned trace. If it is copper it should be an easy fix, but if it is aluminum it may be challenging. I do not know what conductor Magnepan uses in their new designs. In the past I used conductive epoxy for repairs on the panels, usually with a piece of foil or whatever glued down by the epoxy.

Strange place to have a lead open... Manufacturing defect?
 

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It looks like it is a aluminum foil lead that is glued down on the membrane and then painted over with something black also.
The damage must come from something falling against the speaker, so the aluminum (?) lead is open right there.
Measured and checked.
There is not a hole in the membrane though.

So I think conductive glue would do the trick!
Any tips on a good product that won’t destroy the “mylar(?) membrane”?
 

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I'd ask advice from Magnepan themselves for suitable repair options, seriously dude...they are just a phone call away. The tech support dudes are very nice and helpful....try that.

Barring that, just solder a piece of wire over it...like a jumper.

It doesn't look like this is on the mylar panel, is it?

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Popping it open seems like the hardest part, at this point as several others have said you can likely just easily jump it with some foil or wire. As for calling Magnepan they're usually pretty friendly but at the end of last year when I needed new tweeters (...again) they seemed a bit overwhelmed and were pretty much unreachable by phone. The prerecorded message at parts included an email which worked fine for ordering, but you'd have a tougher time of it since you want advice.
 

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August 2021
Anyone going? Will Magnepan be there? How's Wendell Diller doing?
Scotth3886, you dustin' off the Caddie for a Road Trip :)
No, I won't be going. Summer months are filled most every weekend with some event somewhere. I'll go again if they get it back to April.
 

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I just opened this thread on my computer and saw the photos......if I see it correctly.......your break is on the mylar. DO NOT attempt to solder it. It will melt the mylar and possibly destroy the panel.

Maybe conductive epoxy will do it...but I worry about resistance of the epoxy. I say call Magnepan and e-mail them this photo. There may be a factory approved way to repair this kind of damage.
They have responded to my e-mails in the past.
 

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Hi Don,
Sorry for the delay in responding.

First, thanks for the tips. I will try them out. I heard the same thing on another thread on audioasylum... keeping the correction into the low octaves.

Do you have any more information on the issue you mentioned. I mean this one:
"The XMC-1 has an issue with the way it handles crossovers so the bass around the crossover point be vexing to solve. Dirac Live knows nothing of crossovers, and the way Emotiva set up the signal path, Dirac Live is not able to correct for crossover phase and such. Most folk have to manually measure and adjust (other Dirac Live AVRs/AVPs do not have this problem)."

I wonder what exactly is the issue and how to implement the workaround you mention.

target curve?
not knowing any better....I just went with a flat line

points?
I did not add any points, I recall Dirac was showing three points by default. I just dragged them up/down to make the target curve as flat as possible.

I will look at the other threads...but posted here first since most people with box type speakers have a very different view of what they like as "good sound". And of course you are correct, I may just like the reflections of the sound bouncing all around the room...making the maggies kinda "disappear" ...sonically speaking :)

The most obvious change is in the dialogs.
With Dirac enabled, the dialog seems to come from the center channel (a Magnepan CC3) kept below the 82" TV.
With Dirac disabled, people's voices seem to come from the TV screen itself (of course there is no speaker there).

The means I can pin point the source of the sound after Dirac correction. Same thing happens to music also, but a little less obvious than the center channel "problem" I describe above. I can hear sound "coming" from left - right speakers.


You could just not use Dirac Live.

Room correction programs do not know what speaker is in play and do not care. The corrections should work the same for any speaker. But a lot of people find out they do not like the effect, which provides

I abandoned my XMC-1 (and Emotiva processors) but used an XMC-1 with a Magnepan-based 7.1 system very similar to yours and Dirac Live sounded great to me. Way better than not using it. However, I have a modestly-sized room, with some of its own acoustic issues, and really hate comb filter effects, so the back wave was damped in my setup.

The XMC-1 has an issue with the way it handles crossovers so the bass around the crossover point be vexing to solve. Dirac Live knows nothing of crossovers, and the way Emotiva set up the signal path, Dirac Live is not able to correct for crossover phase and such. Most folk have to manually measure and adjust (other Dirac Live AVRs/AVPs do not have this problem).

There are so many variables in applying room correction that it is really hard to say what be wrong or right in your case. The Maggies may simply be emphasizing frequencies you like to hear brought out and Dirac Live is bringing them down. Or it is correcting some first reflections that you like since they add "space" to the sound. The corrected sound may be more accurate but you do not like it as much. Etc.

What target curve are you using? You can adjust it to tweak the sound, sort of a fancy tone control system.

Are you using one point or many? If many, you could try using just one point, or perhaps 3 (MLP and just right and left of the MLP), and see if that helps.

You might want to leave it for a while and see what you think after listening a bit longer. Or switch back and forth to see if you can identify exactly what changed (may be hard to do by ear).

The usual advice is to rerun Dirac Live and see if it makes any difference. If not, then without doing the measurements again (no need), save the setup into a new file, and then adjust the Dirac Live "curtains" so it only acts upon frequencies below say 200~250 Hz. That way it should correct bass modes and such but not affect the midrange and upper frequencies, letting the sound of the speakers shine through.

You may want to post in the Dirac Live or Emotiva XMC-1 threads for more advice.

HTH - Don
 

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I just opened this thread on my computer and saw the photos......if I see it correctly.......your break is on the mylar. DO NOT attempt to solder it. It will melt the mylar and possibly destroy the panel.

Maybe conductive epoxy will do it...but I worry about resistance of the epoxy. I say call Magnepan and e-mail them this photo. There may be a factory approved way to repair this kind of damage.
They have responded to my e-mails in the past.
Conductive epoxy is what I used "way back when" as an alternative to shipping them back to Magnepan and rarely had problems. The conductivity is pretty good; not a copper wire, but most use little silver beads and are more than good enough.

There is a problem with the tube I linked, however -- it does not cure at room temp. Look for a room-temp version of conductive epoxy (the one I linked we use for mounting chips and such then it goes into an oven to cure, forgot about that, sorry!)
 

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Hi Don,
Sorry for the delay in responding.

First, thanks for the tips. I will try them out. I heard the same thing on another thread on audioasylum... keeping the correction into the low octaves.

Do you have any more information on the issue you mentioned. I mean this one:
"The XMC-1 has an issue with the way it handles crossovers so the bass around the crossover point be vexing to solve. Dirac Live knows nothing of crossovers, and the way Emotiva set up the signal path, Dirac Live is not able to correct for crossover phase and such. Most folk have to manually measure and adjust (other Dirac Live AVRs/AVPs do not have this problem)."

I wonder what exactly is the issue and how to implement the workaround you mention.

target curve?
not knowing any better....I just went with a flat line

points?
I did not add any points, I recall Dirac was showing three points by default. I just dragged them up/down to make the target curve as flat as possible.

I will look at the other threads...but posted here first since most people with box type speakers have a very different view of what they like as "good sound". And of course you are correct, I may just like the reflections of the sound bouncing all around the room...making the maggies kinda "disappear" ...sonically speaking :)

The most obvious change is in the dialogs.
With Dirac enabled, the dialog seems to come from the center channel (a Magnepan CC3) kept below the 82" TV.
With Dirac disabled, people's voices seem to come from the TV screen itself (of course there is no speaker there).

The means I can pin point the source of the sound after Dirac correction. Same thing happens to music also, but a little less obvious than the center channel "problem" I describe above. I can hear sound "coming" from left - right speakers.
Look at the Emotiva XMC-1 thread for a description of how they do the signal path for bass management and crossovers. I used a measurements to tweak it in, along with dragging the target curves to emulate a second-order response. Dirac Live knows nothing about the crossover settings, and Emotiva does not place them in the signal path for Dirac Live to include, so it can get the phase around the crossover wrong IME.

It actually sounds like Dirac Live is getting it right, you just do not like it that way. I think I had the same experience, wherein the dialogue "collapsed" to the center, but it turns out that is the way most everything is mixed and Dirac Live made it more faithful to the disc. I have had that experience with virtually every room correction program at one time or another, especially when I first set up a full-on HT system instead of just using my stereo (L/R) speakers. But, preference is OK, so do what you like. I did find dialogue was more clear coming from the center and with proper balance (levels) and EQ the effects more "immersive" once I had run and used room correction to dial it in.

A flat line is not what most people prefer. Dirac Live has a default target curve that emphasized the bass a little too much for me. I used about 3-5 dB boost at the very low end (gradually rising from maybe 250 Hz and shelving at maybe 60~80 Hz) and rolled off the high end above about 6~8 kHz. YMMV. My new AVP came with the Harman curve built-in so I used it with a few slight tweaks; it is pretty similar to where I had my XMC-1 set.

You should probably post all this in the XMC-1 or Dirac Live thread. For the record I have "box type" speakers now but have some familiarity with planar speakers (dynamic and ESL).
 

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I just opened this thread on my computer and saw the photos......if I see it correctly.......your break is on the mylar. DO NOT attempt to solder it. It will melt the mylar and possibly destroy the panel.

Maybe conductive epoxy will do it...but I worry about resistance of the epoxy. I say call Magnepan and e-mail them this photo. There may be a factory approved way to repair this kind of damage.
They have responded to my e-mails in the past.
Please let us know.
 

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Received my CC5 + DWM Bass Panel. Took about six weeks. Makes a huge difference for movie dialogue. Had been using my 3.7s as phantom center; before that Paradigm Prestige 45C.

Also received VTI stands, beautiful, solid, not super expensive. Highly recommended.

Waiting for contractor to install ATS acoustic panels, try to cut down the echo in our great room. Always a work in progress.
 
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