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Do you call it macaroni? :D
 

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What would happen if you connected a 9V DC power source to a 12V device and vice versa- a 12V power wall wart to a device that only needs 9V to operate?
Here is a shelf in my rack (needs dusting, as I can see from a close up):
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It has three devices, from left to right:
1) Keces P8 low noise ultralinear power supply. Its function is to convert AC power from the PS Audio P5 power plant (the unit on the lower shelf underneath) into DC power into two zones (two outputs in the back): one is 12V the other is 9V. The external power supply makes the lower end more fleshy and adds some weight to instruments and voices, although very little. The Keces powers the other two devices to its right:
2) Mytek Brooklyn DAC+, which can be connected to a wall power socket with its own regular power cord, or if you have a higher end low noise external power supply like the Keces, the Mytek also has a 12V DC input. The power supply inside the Mytek DAC is excellent, but the Keces P8 unit to its left has a better transformer and more and better capacitors. The fact that the external power supply weighs almost double of the entire Mytek DAC+ with its own internal power supply in addition to the DAC/phono/headphone amp/preamp capabilities speaks volumes.
3) SoTM tx-USBultra USB signal reclocker and conditioner (it accepts USB signal from the MediaServer and outputs a cleaner signal to the Mytek DAC+). This unit doesnt have an 120V AC power input and requires a 9V DC power like a regular wall wart, which is provided by the second zone in the Keces external power supply. The function of the USB signal reclocker/conditioner is to make the USB signal jitter free and cleaner, which can be actually heard.
Here is the trouble. A good 6 months ago I made a mistake. I sprayed a window cleaner on all of the devices' faceplates to clean them with a paper towel. None had a problem except the Keces. The cleaning liquid seeped inside the LCD display which tells you which zone outputs how much power (Volts and Amperes). So what it shows now is not legible (although you can make out the one voltage is a single digit (the 9V) and the other is two digits (the 12V), but you cannot be sure. For that reason I removed it from circulation 6 months ago.
Here is what it showed :
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Here is what is supposed to show (someone elses unit with different voltages):
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The back of the unit is of no help because it doesnt have any voltage markings, only a choice of zone outputs. Incidentally, each of the two zones can be switched to another fixed voltage. For example, a 12V output can be switched to a 15V in zone one and the 9V zone two output can be switched by the toggle switch next to it to a 12V DC output.
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But that is irrelevant in this context.
I am very much afraid to burn the 9V SOTM with a 12V input or damage the Mytek DAC+ with a lower voltage or even the Keces itself, if any of this possible. Of course I am not going to go ahead and see for myself what happens. That is an expensive proposition. So I connected the power cables to the DC power outlets in the Keces and simply measured each cable with a tube biasing multi-meter. It clearly told me which is which so I didnt need to decipher the damaged LCD display. I know which zone is 9v and which is 12V. Marked them accordingly.
But still, what would happen if you connected a 9V to a 12V device and vice versa?
 

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Very much depends upon the device. Apply 9 V to a 12 V input would likely do no damage, may decrease the performance. Applying 12 V to a 9 V input is more risque as you are over-voltaging the input so it could hurt components inside. Chances are they would survive but the supply and component may run hotter and the higher voltage will reduce component lifetime.

I got a little portable (battery-powered) Brother label maker years ago and use it regularly to tag both ends of cables and power cords to make it easier to sort the rat's nest behind my console.
 

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So I've been enjoying my Magnepan speakers quite a bit. Two channel listening, even not set up as suggested, is still providing me with hours of joy. As I've stated before, I am using an MMGW as my center which is now mounted on my wooden TV console. It is off the wall about five to six inches now and sounds much better than on the wall angled away from the wall. I think it sounds fine, but feeling like a better speaker in their line will sound even better. The question I have is do you think upgrading to an MC1 for the center (considering I believe the MMGW is doing a good job even though most say it will not work) will be worth the extra cost?

Thanks!
 
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ok ive been listening to the maggies without a sub and its just not the same and i was thinking of going tube (amplifier) and just run a high low convertor to run the sub. Would any high low convertor work from car audio or does it have to be made for home audio?

never mind bad idea from what i found on the internet.
 

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If you are in FL and happen to be in the market for subs that can complement your maggies then take a look at this pair of excellent REL 212/SE subs for almost half MSRP. These are lower than I paid for mine by $500!
 

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Very much depends upon the device. Apply 9 V to a 12 V input would likely do no damage, may decrease the performance. Applying 12 V to a 9 V input is more risque as you are over-voltaging the input so it could hurt components inside. Chances are they would survive but the supply and component may run hotter and the higher voltage will reduce component lifetime.

I got a little portable (battery-powered) Brother label maker years ago and use it regularly to tag both ends of cables and power cords to make it easier to sort the rat's nest behind my console.
Another great idea,
Like this Don?
 

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Macaroni...as in stuck a feather in his hat?
or Marconi..the long-distance radio transmission guy?
Reference to the feather in Scott's hat.

Yah. Mine is much older and a little bigger but that looks like a great choice. A lot of companies make them. I think I got mine on sale when I was buying toner for my printer. I used to have a little one that had a thick plastic "tape" and a wheel with letters and numbers. You'd select the character and press to imprint the tape, repeat for every character of whatever label you were creating. The new ones are much, much better!
 

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This spot for sale or rent.
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I used to have a little one that had a thick plastic "tape" and a wheel with letters and numbers. You'd select the character and press to imprint the tape, repeat for every character of whatever label you were creating. The new ones are much, much better!
Dymo!
Had one decades ago. They apparently still make them.
3109138
 
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Dymo!
Had one decades ago. They apparently still make them.
View attachment 3109138
That's the one! Mine was yellow, think my dad gave it to me, so that was a long time ago. They make "modern" label makers as well these days; I did not know they still made the "old" kind. We have one at work; I think it is a thermal printer though am not sure.

What I am sure is that I lost the little yellow bugger many years ago (probably in some box someplace) and realized after about the third time I had to rewire the mess behind my console that I needed to get my act together, or at least label the wires (must have realistic expectations). I also use it to label power cords for various things around the house. Unexpectedly unplugging my PC while it was on (instead of what I thought I was unplugging) and corrupting the OS disc was an unpleasant experience.
 

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Reference to the feather in Scott's hat.

Yah. Mine is much older and a little bigger but that looks like a great choice. A lot of companies make them. I think I got mine on sale when I was buying toner for my printer. I used to have a little one that had a thick plastic "tape" and a wheel with letters and numbers. You'd select the character and press to imprint the tape, repeat for every character of whatever label you were creating. The new ones are much, much better!
I'm just waiting for the first peep who comes up to me to tell me that my 'feather' is too short. I'll just tell them that you're born with what you're born with.
 

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I'm just waiting for the first peep who comes up to me to tell me that my 'feather' is too short. I'll just tell them that you're born with what you're born with.
Reckon I should take a picture of my Stetson, it's also got a feather... Probably too tall to wear in a car, however.
 
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I got a little portable (battery-powered) Brother label maker years ago and use it regularly to tag both ends of cables and power cords to make it easier to sort the rat's nest behind my console.
That is a great idea, thanks. I will get one.
I realized why I took the Keces power supply out of circulation some months ago. It was not because of the illegible LED screen at all. It was because it got hot. Not lukewarm like when I just bought it. Not just hot to the touch. I mean boiling hot, like your hand cant even touch it again hot. It doesnt consume more power or current than usual, it operates as it should, but something is definitely wrong, so out it goes. $700 down the drain.
 
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