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Dirac on its own won't raise a speaker above 0dB, but you can do that, up to +10dB, on the Calibration tab, in the User Trim column. Several of us were having the problem of having to raise the Master Volume several dB after a Dirac calibration because we had certain speakers, usually Surrounds, that were much quieter than the mains. Dirac would attenuate the mains by as much as 15dB or more to make them match the Surrounds. Some of us fixed that by adding tiny pre-amps to our Surround-channel DIY power amps.

I think I remember hearing about some potential issues with going above 0dB in the User Trim (eating into headroom, or something like that) but I'm not smart enough to speak intelligently about that. I've done it to a degree, and my head hasn't fallen off.

Hope this helps.

Rick
A couple of good suggestions and when I try DL again, I will try adding some gain on the calibration page to the surround speakers. The multi channel preamp idea might also work but not sure i want to go that route as I am trying to simplify the system.

ptruce
 

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Hi Jerry!

My HTP-1 on 1.7.1 and 1.80 has always stayed on Upmix selected, irrespective of input.

Thank you very much
FURY
 

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It took only about an hour of work to replace the Marantz device on my Harmony Elite remote with the HTP-1, with almost exactly the same functionality. The only thing I have not been able to figure out is how to issue a "Picture Off" command to my Sony TV when playing an audio-only source, and then switch back to "Picture On" for sources with video.

The conversion was made very easy because the HTP-1 is already in the Harmony database, which I believe has been already reported. In case anyone would find it useful, I am attaching a list of the commands in the database.
I thought I heard that an input would "remember" settings. I typically watch DirecTV in Dolby Surround mode. As mentioned earlier, I have been listening to multi-channel audio from the Oppo in Direct mode. When I switched back to the DirecTV input, the HTP-1 stayed in Direct mode. Should it not have remembered that the DTV input was supposed to be in Dolby Surround mode? Having to correct this every time I switch an input will be a PITA. I am used to the "Quick Select" functionality of D&M AVR's.
Jerry,

For Harmony I just add a new activity that does not require video, so when I switch to it, it shuts down the TV/Proj and when I switch to a activity that uses video it comes on.

On the inputs, it does not remember so it stays on what ever you have it set at(unless someone here knows something I don't). You could use the macros, but I wish they would add this also or the ability to choose on the input page.
 

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Triggers based on source is a much cleaner option and has worked fine for years on D&M and other brands. Anything relying on auto sense will have intermittent issues at times.
I haven't had any issues with my TAG McLaren preamp powering on exactly the channels that are needed in almost 2 decades. I'm not arguing to have only one, but preferably both options.

Edit: no HDMI there, of course, so maybe that makes detection more reliable.
 

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Jerry,

For Harmony I just add a new activity that does not require video, so when I switch to it, it shuts down the TV/Proj and when I switch to a activity that uses video it comes on.

On the inputs, it does not remember so it stays on what ever you have it set at(unless someone here knows something I don't). You could use the macros, but I wish they would add this also or the ability to choose on the input page.
If by "shuts down" you mean powers off, I would find that undesirable. I switch back and forth between music and TV many time a day, and I would not want to subject the TV electronics to repeated power offs and ons. I would prefer to use the "Picture Off" command, which blanks the screen without powering off, but I can't figure out how to program it.

@Srgtfury seems to have a different opinion on the settings memory.
 

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If by "shuts down" you mean powers off, I would find that undesirable. I switch back and forth between music and TV many time a day, and I would not want to subject the TV electronics to repeated power offs and ons. I would prefer to use the "Picture Off" command, which blanks the screen without powering off, but I can't figure out how to program it.

@Srgtfury seems to have a different opinion on the settings memory.
I misunderstood what you wanted. Makes sense
 
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A couple of good suggestions and when I try DL again, I will try adding some gain on the calibration page to the surround speakers. The multi channel preamp idea might also work but not sure i want to go that route as I am trying to simplify the system.

ptruce
In addition to those suggestions which I have used because my mains were consistently being lowered by 7db it's been my experience after much trail and error that the following process works for me in gaining back some db with Dirac.

Basically, when doing the volume calibration take notice of which speaker is producing the lowest volume when in the "green" area (usually the surrounds or rears). My rears were at -19 or thereabouts and the practice that is usually followed is to bring all the other speakers to that -19 level however when I did that my mains were still being cut too much in the final calibration so instead of bringing down my other speakers to -19 I would bring them down 3db more than that so to -22db which still leaves them in the "green"zone and gave me back 4db of volume so now my mains are around -3db for channel trim in the final output instead of around -7.

Some have also suggested bumping up the "Max output level" on the calibration tab to gain some db back

Hope this helps
 

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Regarding output levels, I used the new speaker "THX-like bandwidth-limited" test tones to measure levels using REW, and my speakers were consistently 74dB =/- .5dB. I am fortunate to have all the speakers in my 7.1 configuration from the same vendor (PSB), powered by the same 7-channel amp, so speaker levels are very easy to dial in before the Dirac calibration. I think many people struggle because of different speaker brands and multiple, different power amps. But then not everyone has the luxury of being able to match everything.
 

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Is there an updated list of current bugs/issues? The one in post #2 doesn't appear to be updated.

Also, does anyone here has DLBC working with HTP-1?
 
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Is there an updated list of current bugs/issues? The one in post #2 doesn't appear to be updated.

Also, does anyone here has DLBC working with HTP-1?
If you had been following the thread, you would have seen that quite a few have successfully implemented DLBC. The implementation on the HTP-1 seems to be considerably more successful than some of the other processors.
 

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If you had been following the thread, you would have seen that quite a few have successfully implemented DLBC. The implementation on the HTP-1 seems to be considerably more successful than some of the other processors.
I am not an HTP-1 owner so not following each and very post on this rapidly moving huge thread. Just looking for experience from HTP-1 owners who are using the DLBC. Thanks for your input!
 

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I wonder if the Shutdown command now recommended for 1.8.0 and up will be implemented.

ptruce
What recommended shutdown command? Remote control turns the unit off like it always has based on what fast start value you have selected on the system tab.
 

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I thought I heard that an input would "remember" settings. I typically watch DirecTV in Dolby Surround mode. As mentioned earlier, I have been listening to multi-channel audio from the Oppo in Direct mode. When I switched back to the DirecTV input, the HTP-1 stayed in Direct mode. Should it not have remembered that the DTV input was supposed to be in Dolby Surround mode? Having to correct this every time I switch an input will be a PITA. I am used to the "Quick Select" functionality of D&M AVR's.
There's no input mode remembering function, selected mode stays selected when you change inputs. This is on features wishlist. But you can use preset keys to do this if you have just few inputs. That would then require using preset keys to select inputs.
 

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A couple of good suggestions and when I try DL again, I will try adding some gain on the calibration page to the surround speakers. The multi channel preamp idea might also work but not sure i want to go that route as I am trying to simplify the system.

ptruce
Presetting calibration page gains before running Dirac has no effect to the Dirac end result. Dirac will set those to 0dB and uses just it's own gain trims to balance the system. You can of course add more user trim gains to all channels after the Dirac calibration, but that is not the correct way to fix this.

You have to find out what amplifiers/subs have lowest gain (just look how Dirac has set gain trims on the HTP-1's webUI calibration page) and somehow add more gain to those via their own, on the units, controls. Or by adding external line level buffers/preamp between the HTP-1 and your power amplifiers. Or by buying amplifiers with balanced inputs, if your current ones are not.

With optimum settings, main L/R channels Dirac gain trims (on HTP-1's calibration page) should stay at 0 to -1dB and all other channels should adjust lower based on those two channels.
 

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I did a misspost but maybe I'll just throw it out there anyway. The HTP-1 manual has a lot of useful information and I've seen now a few times confusion about the different modes in the HTP-1. In the 1.8.1 manual that is all detailed on pages 70-71. There are also a lot of other useful information in there.

I updated to 1.8.1 and had the issue that I got now IP address when the update had finished but that was resolved by doing a full power off with the switch on the back. So anyone having issues with it not getting an IP from the network that worked for me.
 

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I updated to 1.8.1 and had the issue that I got now IP address when the update had finished but that was resolved by doing a full power off with the switch on the back. So anyone having issues with it not getting an IP from the network that worked for me.
Ethernet or Wifi? My unit worked fine after the update via ethernet and webUI was available. But when I opened webUI's Connectivity page, there was just spinning wait circle and CEC button visible, nothing else. Reboot didn't fix it but back panel power off did. I don't have wifi active/enabled but I think there was still something locked up in the wifi interface causing this issue.
 

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Ethernet or Wifi? My unit worked fine after the update via ethernet and webUI was available. But when I opened webUI's Connectivity page, there was just spinning wait circle and CEC button visible, nothing else. Reboot didn't fix it but back panel power off did. I don't have wifi active/enabled but I think there was still something locked up in the wifi interface causing this issue.
Ethernet. I was thinking about trying WiFi but got stuck at trying to figure out how to add a hidden SSID. I only run hidden SSIDs. Didn’t give much of an effort though and I haven’t read the manual on it either :p

But I never run WiFi for anything that I don’t have to.
 

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Dirac on its own won't raise a speaker above 0dB, but you can do that, up to +10dB, on the Calibration tab, in the User Trim column. Several of us were having the problem of having to raise the Master Volume several dB after a Dirac calibration because we had certain speakers, usually Surrounds, that were much quieter than the mains. Dirac would attenuate the mains by as much as 15dB or more to make them match the Surrounds. Some of us fixed that by adding tiny pre-amps to our Surround-channel DIY power amps.

I think I remember hearing about some potential issues with going above 0dB in the User Trim (eating into headroom, or something like that) but I'm not smart enough to speak intelligently about that. I've done it to a degree, and my head hasn't fallen off.

Hope this helps.

Rick
Hi Rick,

There might be another solution. I just purchased 2 Crown xli-1500 amps which are pro amps with gain controls. If the fans are not too noisy, this may work for me as I have 4 height speakers. Available on Amazon and eBay with return privilege. They also have the regualr speaker connections as well as Speakon. Inputs are combo 1/4"-XLR.

ptruce
 
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