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"Just" recreate what you had with Audyssey. Hope you still have settings and measurements of that setup. Otherwise it will be hard for others to provide advice how to recreate what you had.
He probably had Dynamic EQ on, so something else than just trying to duplicate that effect with Dirac curves is needed. Loudness & tone control might do it, at least those are easier to test than PEQ.
 

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He probably had Dynamic EQ on, so something else than just trying to duplicate that effect with Dirac curves is needed. Loudness & tone control might do it, at least those are easier to test than PEQ.
That could well be. We'll probably never know as none of his previous settings seem to be documented anywhere. In other words, without reference there's no preference.
 

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I did try turning loudness on (it made everything vs just the bass louder) but never tried adjusting it or using tone control bass. I didn’t even know you could lol. There are so many damn options! It’s bonkers! I have an entire day to mess with it tomorrow, so I have some reading to do.
Make sure to load the Dirac target curve for all speakers not just subs. And then after that make sure to drag the left curtain all the way to the left. Even if your target curve is set to boost to 5Hz or whatever the curtain will most likely not be set that low. For me it was set at 17Hz by default so changing that made my bass come back.
 

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I ended up purchasing a total of 3 ams from @BigCoolJesus. He's absolutely amazing to work with. I purchased a total of 16 channels using NC252MP. Here is the link of his site. So now I have no issues with conversion or this or that... All are same amp feeding 150 watts using XLR.
I'm holding off my impressions because I want to be thorough with my impressions.
I bought a 4 channel amp with the 502's from him. My HTP-1 + Buckeye amp is the best sounding setup I've ever had.
 

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@N8DOGG - I've been using Audyssey with three different AVR's over 12 years. This is my first Dirac experience and I was ready to get bogged down. I even started opened a doc on the laptop so I could take notes of what I had done. I ended up not needing them. I ran Dirac which is not the best interface, mostly because of the naming of things but got though it easily. I ran my measurements, uploaded the Harman curve I had downloaded, made sure DLBC was selected and sent it to my HTP-1. I didn't have to move curtains, select crossovers, nothing. Your system is more complex than mine and maybe I was lucky but I would say get a new set of measurements and try again. Just do the basic steps and see how it sounds. Still not happy then start messing around.
 

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And I assume the missing audio at the beginning of tracks is being worked on for a fix?
Whether they are working on it or not, it is a relatively insignificant issue, IMO.
Its interesting, the more people talk about this.
I get this on nearly every source to some extent.
Sounds like others don't get it.
Another person with an NX7 gets it apparently in the same way I do.
I'm going to try setting up my old projector and see if I get it as well with that.
I certainly hope they are still working on this, as it is a pretty big annoyance to me.
Each time I fast forward/rewind I lose 2 seconds of audio.
Its relatively insignificant from the point it doesnt stop me from watching something but its pretty significant that a 4000$ piece of gear has a problem like this where my 600$ Denon does not.
I would like to hear from @MonolithGuy that this is still something they are trying to tackle. I would gladly work with them to collect data from my setup as I get this very frequently from various sources.
Its really the only issue that I even have with the processor, and not enough for me to return it yet but honestly that is yet. The more it happens the more I'm disappointed.
Everything else is just so nice!
 

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@N8DOGG - I actually recently installed 4 new height speakers and I reran Dirac (with DLBC) yesterday. As always, I closely follow @markus767 instruction documents. I applied the Harmon curves and WOW!

I played the scene in Ford vs Ferrari where Mr. Ford shuts down the assembly line. It's not a show-off scene (no explosions, for example), but the audio reminded me of my experience when I saw the movie in a very good IMAX theater. It sounded just like a person would in a large space - resonance, depth - to me, it was perfect. In fact, my wife said it sounded just like the IMAX.

And, yes, I played the scenes with the races, and yes, there was enough bass to wake the dead. I'm only running one sub, by the way - an HSU VT15 with one port open. And I'm not running the sub "hot".
 

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A lot of great updates here!

So if one were to buy the HTP-1 today, what "working percent" would it perform out of the box? For example, it's 94% there - and getting better every day with firmware updates, etc.

For those who own one, what percent would you apply to it?
I got mine set up late December and would give it a 99.99% as everything I use (UB820, STB, Oppo95 for SACD, LG TV via eARC) is working. I installed FW 1.8.2 after setting up HW and now using 1.8.3. These are pre-release versions. My .01% is for uncertainty about playing 4K DV video thru HTP1 which had some sparkles. I haven't tried another cable and don't recall any similar observations from others. What I did do is move UB820 video direct to TV and HDMI audio to HTP1 which worked w/o causing any HDMI loops or HDCP muting. This is my preferred way to go, but I didn't start that way fearing HDMI loop issue.

I would say that it sounds even better once Dirac is configured. That takes some time even with modest number of speakers.

For a phone or tablet, the app written by Pink Soda (discussion starter) is much better to use than a web browser. It is on the first page.
 

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@N8DOGG - Lack of bass impact has always been a complaint about Dirac. 9 times out of 10 it's because the prior room EQ did a worse job of taming peaks and the loss of those peaks results in a perceived relative lack of bass. It's a very common compliant when moving from Audyssey. I'm not saying that's what you're experiencing of course, but without measurements it's difficult to tell. The beauty of Dirac is that if you want peaks back or to run subs very hot, just plug that into the target curve then verify with REW, then iteratively improve. For the first week-or-so after I got DLBC I had a long HDMI permanently connected to the HTP-1, so that I could hook it up to REW and measure > tweak with Dirac > measure > tweak, etc. It's very worthwhile and rewarding. It's also impressive to see in REW what DLBC can achieve. That HDMI's gone now and I'm enjoying the pay-off :D
 

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Gain match the subs. Let Dirac set levels.
Does this thinking change a bit (at least on HTP1) if each sub is connected to a separate channel because when doing the Dirac configuration you might adjust the gain/volume on each sub to have them close to other speakers/subs?
 

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Does this thinking change a bit (at least on HTP1) if each sub is connected to a separate channel because when doing the Dirac configuration you might adjust the gain/volume on each sub to have them close to other speakers/subs?
Gain staging is different from level matching. First you make sure that your speaker/sub's amp is getting a hot enough (but not too hot) signal top properly drive it without introducing distortion or clipping. Dirac then levels the response out.

If using individual sub channels this becomes doubly important since Dirac tunes to the lowest output response. In essence it's easier (and most times preferred) to turn something down in the latter stages than turn something else up. If you turn a "loud" channel down too far, Dirac could potentially try to turn it back up to meet your curve which could introduce unwanted distortion or throw off your results. Think of it like trying to force a certain size hose to flow more than it's able, you're either going to rupture the hose, or ruin something else upstream.
 

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Gain match the subs. Let Dirac set levels.
I respectfully disagree, Sanjay, and let me explain why. Gain-matching multiple subs is somewhat time-consuming, and happens prior to running Dirac. With DLBC, it is very important that each sub's output meets or exceeds the speaker with the lowest output level. When the subs are gain-matched outside of Dirac, and if the level of each sub does not meet this criteria, one must exit Dirac and go through the gain-matching process again, raising each sub's level. This is time-consuming.

With DLBC, it is much easier to go to the Dirac level-setting screen and manually adjust each sub's gain control so that the sub output is high enough (i.e. level-match). Then, like you say, let Dirac determine the final trim setting for each sub. I am not saying that you can't accomplish good results by gain-matching (if the level is high enough), I am simply saying that the approach I am suggesting is much simpler.

Edit: I should add that if not using DLBC, and multiple subs are being combined onto one output channel, gain-matching the subs is the approach I have always used. This is because Dirac cannot adjust each sub's output individually, as is the case with DLBC.
 

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@theblackangus I can't remember the details but you've tried changing from indicated/auto in the input settings right?
Yes and so far that hasnt helped. But I only tested that in the music scenarios.
 

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It makes a big difference for movies too. I'm on FW 1.7.1 and had to switch my settings on my HTPC input. If I pressed pause while watching an Atmos movie I would get static from all speakers when I hit play. Changing that setting resolved the issue.
 

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I’m just in the middle of a new calibration. I got a message last night from a dealer/installer I used to know well, that offered to run me through a face time setup, to make sure I wasn’t doing anything wrong. So that is ruled out now at least lol.
We know each other fairly well, I built a few subs for him over the years.
He is 100% it’s just expectation vs problems.

still waiting for my 20 foot HDMI so I can run some rew sweeps. But I can post the Dirac info when I’m done, though not sure how helpful that is.
FE51603C-63DC-4F0A-AB0F-3D4008E24683.jpeg
 

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I am simply saying that the approach I am suggesting is much simpler.
It is. I was suggesting baselining all subs by starting them off with the same amp-to-driver relationship, irrespective of the room's influence. No reason this has to be below Dirac's required levels. But, having a common starting point was a suggestion, not a requirement.
 

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Does this thinking change a bit (at least on HTP1) if each sub is connected to a separate channel because when doing the Dirac configuration you might adjust the gain/volume on each sub to have them close to other speakers/subs?
No. It's like having passive subs connected to outboard amps. They're all starting out with the same amp gain to subwoofer driver relationship. Dirac will adjust those levels as needed.
 

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So when I enable DLBC, it obviously completely eliminates the boost. So I can just drag the points back up to how the response is and should be close to that response?
 
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