How can this be blamed on the HTP-1, when the official Monoprice webUI apparently gives you a warning that you are using an out of range setting?I already blew up the tweeters on my two surround back speakers with this damn HTP-1...(the dreaded horn sound attacked my system before Monoprice could fix it). Now, I am reading that there is another bug that could destroy my other speakers? bad Monoprice.
Start with the manufacturer specs and see if they get a hot enough signal, if not gradually raise the value in the htp-1 until you're where you want to be output-wide. Note that you may introduce distortion after a certain point so tread lightly and don't run things full tilt right after making changes.Hello All,
I am auditioning 3 Seaton Catalysts 12C's in my current set-up to see how they compare to my Tekton Ulfberhts. This is my first foray into the world of active/powered speakers. The tri-amped Catalysts have an input sensitivity of 1vm RMS which I will set the HTP accordingly. Any other suggestions? I am pretty much flying blind so any other suggestions are welcome. I will post in the DIRAC and Seaton thread for other suggestions in regard to room connection and the built in DSP that the Seaton's have. Thanks in advance!
While I tend to agree with this, they do provide an API interface the API it should reject out of bounds values vs the web gui.How can this be blamed on the HTP-1, when the official Monoprice webUI apparently gives you a warning that you are using an out of range setting?
While I agree with the sentiment it should be bounds checked, the attack vector is a bit far - as you can of course turn the volume way, way up too without authentication.While I tend to agree with this, they do provide an API interface the API it should reject out of bounds values vs the web gui.
This makes API use safe for any gui or tool using the API as they are not guessing on what the api will accept or what functionality is acceptable w/o damage.
If the API doesnt boung the input to a safe value its an attack vector especially as the API doesn't require authentication.
Definitely. Be sure to take a reading in rew or on a db meter of your speakers and subs separately all you can maintain the same balance you had before.If I change my main amp to one that has a higher input sensitivity (than I'm currently using) and then raise the sensitivity on the HTP-1 accordingly, then would it be recommended to adjust the input sensitivity on my sub amp to more closely match the main amps?
I would definitely do a fresh call when the amp comes in. The sub amp is somewhere around 1.7Vrms now and the speaker amp is rated at 2.3Vrms. If I remember correctly by lowering the amp gain that would put the sensitivity at around 2.4Vrms. I just wasn't sure if it would be beneficial to do it or not for the subs.Definitely. Be sure to take a reading in rew or on a db meter of your speakers and subs separately all you can maintain the same balance you had before.
Ideally, a fresh dirac calibration should be done as well.
Resolved how?UPDATED: Resolved. Thanks all!
Being a fence-sitter on this, I gotta say it is more than a little concerning that there seems to be a good deal of people in this last group of buyers having problems. Especially the bricking of the unit again as reported in this instance.Probably be a good idea to have permanent link to it since you are NOT the first person that has been looking for it and couldn't find it.
That is so weird. I used to have issues with that but I upgraded the ram and hard drive on my iMac and it’s worked great since. But that’s is very weird. You sure it’s not just a coincidence?Is there a current bug connecting a laptop to the HTP-1 via HDMI?
I have a macbook pro connected via HDMI to HDMI2 on the HTP-1 for the purpose of running REW measures, but it quite often just doesn't recognize the laptop visavis the laptop doesn't recogize the HTP-1.
I've tried rebooting both devices, doesn't work. Only attempting to do a firmware upgrade (where HTP-1 says I'm already on the latest version and backs out) allows me to connect for a while, until it starts doing it again.
Edit: Figured it out, it seems surrounds and heights need to all be enabled in order for the HTP-1 to recognize the laptop. Weird. I had only C, Mains and Sub enabled
I've had virtually no issues except for that loudness issue that scared the crap out of me. But that wasn't a monoprice issue, and it's now resolved.Being a fence-sitter on this, I gotta say it is more than a little concerning that there seems to be a good deal of people in this last group of buyers having problems. Especially the bricking of the unit again as reported in this instance.
Budgetary concerns aside while I wait for news on two other fronts (HDMI upgrade and DTS:X Pro)... this could keep me on the sidelines if not addressed. I'm in no hurry yet: this has been the front runner in my plan to replace my SR 6012 perhaps later this year.