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Did you ever get an answer to this question?
I have not received a specific response, but my own research on the internet seems to show that these speakers are efficient enough to where it (hopefully) will not be a problem. If anyone has any specific experience with this combination, I'd welcome it.
 

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If I recall, Klipsch's sensitivity ratings are relatively aggressive. I think a reviewer mentioned measuring the RF8000 as low 90's vs the 98 or whatever they state. Still damn good efficiency. I would imagine the RF7 having dual 10's vs dual 8's is even more efficient, so mid to high 90's vs the 100 they spec and you'll be fine for 99% of the time. If you're driving all 9 channels and like to play it really loud/close to reference in a large room, personally I'd probably consider an amp. Even though I doubt I'd notice it.

3.1 with the SVS handling < 80hz, highly doubtful you'd need an external amp.

But like it or not, you'll always wonder... :confused:
 

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I'm still trying to figure out, with either the newest (post Dec) builds and/or for folks that took their units in to a service center, is the popping and subwoofer hum or whatever that issue was, fixed, and really just the HDMI handshake issues left? Which is shocking to read and say, HDMI handshake issue, in 2021!
 

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Mine is from October and I have no issues with speakers pops nor subwoofer hums. I did have some hdmi problems with my ps5, when set to 4k hdr I got snow in black areas and sometimes it would lose hdmi signal, needing a power cycle or switching hdmi inputs to get the signal back. This was solved by setting the ps5 to 4:2:0 so I think the problem might be cable related. Will try some 48gbps cables to see if I can go back to 4:2:2.
 

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iOS/iPadOS app

Just released version 2.7.3 to the App Store.

What's new?
  • Added source input and preset labels to remote screen

The app should become available within the next few days: mehlau.net > NAD OSD
 

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Mine is from October and I have no issues with speakers pops nor subwoofer hums. I did have some hdmi problems with my ps5, when set to 4k hdr I got snow in black areas and sometimes it would lose hdmi signal, needing a power cycle or switching hdmi inputs to get the signal back. This was solved by setting the ps5 to 4:2:0 so I think the problem might be cable related. Will try some 48gbps cables to see if I can go back to 4:2:2.
Hi Mike, I had trouble when setting my Apple TV to 4:2:2 chroma when using a Qed 4K 10m hdmi cable between the NAD and TV. Switched to a Ruipro 8K hdmi 2.1 cable (make sure it’s GEN 3) and it solved my issue. Might be worth a try.
 

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Hi. Finally getting my T778 hooked. Have HDMI 1 input from cable box. HDMI out (4K) to LG GX TV eARC input TV.
Cable sound works great but can’t get any sound via Netflix or any other LG tv apps. Is something setup wrong for Source 1? eARC not passing sound from TV to NAD.
Thanks.
 

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Hi. Finally getting my T778 hooked. Have HDMI 1 input from cable box. HDMI out (4K) to LG GX TV eARC input TV.
Cable sound works great but can’t get any sound via Netflix or any other LG tv apps. Is something setup wrong for Source 1? eARC not passing sound from TV to NAD.
Thanks.
What are your eARC settings for the receiver as well as the LG?
 

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eARC now working via LG tv apps, etc. love it!
Now onto the “popping”! I’ve read lots of posts about it. Normally it’s when switching sources. What I’m getting is watching a show and about 20 minutes in is a loudish “pop/twang sound”. Then it might do it again few minutes later or not. Very random. It’s like a split second “pop/twang”. Has anyone experienced similar and if so, was it resolved and/or?
Thanks!
 

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I’ve had this. Twice in 4 months or so. The fix for me is switching the unit into standby and out again.
How long did this fix last? And just hit front power button to standby and back on?
Is this then unrelated to the popping issue?
I’ve done all software updates.
Thanks.
 

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How long did this fix last? And just hit front power button to standby and back on?
Is this then unrelated to the popping issue?
I’ve done all software updates.
Thanks.
I use the unofficial app to turn off and then in again. The problems then gone. It’s more of a “reset” than a “fix”. Whatever happening in the software internally to cause the issue is then gone. I’ve only had this issue crop up twice so far. And yes totally unrelated to the source change popping issue.
 

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I use the unofficial app to turn off and then in again. The problems then gone. It’s more of a “reset” than a “fix”. Whatever happening in the software internally to cause the issue is then gone. I’ve only had this issue crop up twice so far. And yes totally unrelated to the source change popping issue.
The BlueOS app? I have figured out how to turn on the NAD but not off! How is OFF performed?
Thanks again.
 

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Hi Mike, I had trouble when setting my Apple TV to 4:2:2 chroma when using a Qed 4K 10m hdmi cable between the NAD and TV. Switched to a Ruipro 8K hdmi 2.1 cable (make sure it’s GEN 3) and it solved my issue. Might be worth a try.
Thanks, I have ordered one Zeskit Maya 8k certified cable to test. Hope it will be solved soon.

I also have some bugs to report, mostly on power up. For example, if my ps5 is on before the nad powers on, the receiver will be stuck on pcm 2.0. I have to switch to another source and back in order to get pcm 7.1. If I turn on the ps5 after the nad finishes its logo boot and shows the source in the front panel it will detect pcm 7.1 correctly.

If I was using blueos, and on the next power up I switch to TV ARC (I have it set to input select), I will get ARC audio but the screen will keep displaying the blueos screen. It does not happen if I wait for the device to fully power up, meaning waiting until the blueos source front panel is displayed. But the receiver does accept input changes before the panel is on. I do not know why there is a difference switching inputs before the front panel is on vs off but it does.

Anyone else having this odd bugs?

Updated: Those bugs do not happen if I enable cec/lan/bluos standby.
 

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Hello, I am a new T778 owner and came back to this forum specifically because this thread answered some of my early questions. Have to admit I was VERY frustrated the first night, but 24 hours later I had figured things out with your help (like how to change the Source on the remote control...). I had to run a hardwire ethernet cable to get Dirac to work without chronic errors.

Anyway, thanks to all for the great input here that really helps us new owners.
 

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Hello, am also a new T778 owner and I have a question regarding how to set up Blue OS/Tidal properly to play music in 2.0/2.1 stereo (DSP has been set up to be direct, with no upmixing) as the music/sound that is coming out of my speakers seem to be thin/shallow (like playing in mono), it does not have the same depth or richness when I upmixed it to enchanced stereo. Appreciate the advice.
 

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Under setup / listening mode setup / listening modes. Just make sure pcm stereo is set to none. Have you run dirac yet? Also double check your crossover settings.
 
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