[SamothUK]

Screen choice advice

Having moved from my old, much smaller, dedicated HT room (which was a total batcave) to a new place with a much much larger room but with worse light control, I'm after advice on what screen to put up here.

Dimensions are:

Seating distance: 15'5"
Projector distance: 18'7"
Projector height: 8'1"

Projector is a JVC HD950 (RS25 in the US?)

Room is fairly light coloured - side walls floor to ceiling dark red velvet drapes (to cover huge windows), ceiling is light coloured, but 14'9" high. Floor is fairly light too. Seating is about 13' wide in one row (room is 19' ft wide)

I'm not looking to watch with the drapes open, use is going to generally be at night with them closed, but light control won't be perfect from that.

I'm thinking of a 135" diagonal wallmount electric screen.

Given what I've got, I think I'm looking at the Firehawk G4 as being my best choice to deal with the less than ideal light control, and I think I need what help with the gain I can get as my projector is going to be on the dim side with that size screen - I think I just about make 16ftL. I think the viewing angle of the G4 should be ok since I make the viewing angle 35 degrees assuming I'm calculating it right?

Anyone got any comments or suggestions?

 

[dan30306]

The one advantage of a regular style frame vs the Sabre is that you can replace the screen surface if it gets damaged - I don't think you can do that with the Sabre.

You can replace the screen if there is damage- its just going to be expensive. The frame and screen are held together by screws. The best way to explain the screen is that it looks like a really big piece of 1/4 inch thick hard plastic that was dipped in screen material (like latex almost). That piece slides into the frame, and there is another insert in the frame channel that wedges it in. The inner frame channel wedge thing is screwed to the back of the outer frame every 6 inches. There are 4 inner channel pieces that run the entire length of the frame all the way around. Its almost like a frame within the frame. Very well built.

 

[Craig Peer]

You can replace the screen if there is damage- its just going to be expensive. The frame and screen are held together by screws. The best way to explain the screen is that it looks like a really big piece of 1/4 inch thick hard plastic that was dipped in screen material (like latex almost). That piece slides into the frame, and there is another insert in the frame channel that wedges it in. The inner frame channel wedge thing is screwed to the back of the outer frame every 6 inches. There are 4 inner channel pieces that run the entire length of the frame all the way around. Its almost like a frame within the frame. Very well built.

Good to know - thanks. I've had folks change the material on their Luxus Deluxe QuickSnap screens ( which is easy ), just never had an occasion to inquire whether it could be done with the Sabre screen. I do like the Sabre screen look!

 

[Stan-Lee]

I sent a question into Stewart last week and haven't heard back. maybe you know.

Can you replace the surface material on the vertical Electrimast screen?

I'm curious both in the case of damage, but also since they don't list the Studiotek 130 G3 as 4K ready (even though I know in this thread it's been stated it is), and then they come out with a similar screen that is better for 4k or 8k down the road, I'm curious if just replacing the surface is possible?

Yes, the screen is replaceable.

 

[DavidHir]

I received my ST100 last Friday and had Chad B out to calibrate my JVC RS4810 to it.

Having only watched a few movies on it so far, if I had to choose one word to describe it: gorgeous.

The image just takes on such a natural, organic look. It takes on a different look compared to the other screens I tried out. It's basically looking at pure image - with nothing annoying such as sparkles, artifacts, etc. The edge to edge brightness of the screen is also very balanced which is nice for off-axis seating.

I went with the Luxus Deluxe fixed frame which was very easy to put together and the fact the bottom of the frame uses magnet pucks behind it to secure it to the wall is a very nice touch and actually improved my image geometry slightly on the bottom compared to the previous Da-Lite I had been using which the bottom hung off the wall just a bit. The frame also looks classy for sure.

Another thing I liked is the lack of odor. I realize all new screens have a chemical-like odor to them. The odor was very slight on the ST100 and almost gone after a few days. The Da-Lite smell was very strong to me and my girlfriend - and even after several weeks it remained strong.

By the way, I am not trying to knock Da-Lite. Their screens were still very impressive and I would recommend them, but I feel like the ST100 is a step above especially for my application.

I was also impressed with how well everything was packed and very secure. The screen also comes in a very strong tube.






All in all, highly recommended. If anyone has any questions at all, feel free to ask.

I also want to say Mike Garrett of AVS is just great work with!

 

[Mike Garrett]

I received my ST100 last Friday and had Chad B out to calibrate my JVC RS4810 to it.

Having only watched a few movies on it so far, if I had to choose one word to describe it: gorgeous.

The image just takes on such a natural, organic look. It takes on a different look compared to the other screens I tried out. It's basically looking at pure image - with nothing annoying such as sparkles, artifacts, etc. The edge to edge brightness of the screen is also very balanced which is nice for off-axis seating.

I went with the Luxus Deluxe fixed frame which was very easy to put together and the fact the bottom of the frame uses magnet pucks behind it to secure it to the wall is a very nice touch and actually improved my image geometry slightly on the bottom compared to the previous Da-Lite I had been using which the bottom hung off the wall just a bit. The frame also looks classy for sure.

Another thing I liked is the lack of odor. I realize all new screens have a chemical-like odor to them. The odor was very slight on the ST100 and almost gone after a few days. The Da-Lite smell was very strong to me and my girlfriend - and even after several weeks it remained strong.

By the way, I am not trying to knock Da-Lite. Their screens were still very impressive and I would recommend them, but I feel like the ST100 is a step above especially for my application.

I was also impressed with how well everything was packed and very secure. The screen also comes in a very strong tube.

View attachment 135305

View attachment 135313

View attachment 135321
All in all, highly recommended. If anyone has any questions at all, feel free to ask.

I also want to say Mike Garrett of AVS is just great work with!

You are welcome. Also with the addition of the Prostar material, you room looks like a nice place to view a movie.

 

[BrutaleZEN]

Gents,

I have a StudioTek G130 with Microperf material. When I play a movie, especially on the dark scenes, I can see a ghost image. It bothers me a lot. I look close to the screen and it looks like some light go through the perfs and are projected on the back of my false wall. Is it possible ? Can a black backing cancel this ghost image ? Is Stewart do a black backing for my screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help and input.

 

[Hawk-eye]

Retractable vs Fixes

I've decided on the Firehawk for my basement. Anyone have experience with Stewart retractable screens? The main reason I'm considering this option is that I have 3 little kids at home. Do the screens develop issues secondary to being retracted more often than deployed for movie/TV watching?

 

[marswill]

Retractable Firehawk G3

I've decided on the Firehawk for my basement. Anyone have experience with Stewart retractable screens? The main reason I'm considering this option is that I have 3 little kids at home. Do the screens develop issues secondary to being retracted more often than deployed for movie/TV watching?

I've had a 100" retractable Firehawk G3 since October 2007. This screen has been deployed and retracted almost every day since then and it still performs a well as when it was new. Occasionally a bug (insect) gets caught and squashed during retraction but it is easy to remove with gentile use of a rag and clean water.

 

[vector54]

FIrehawk LS vs Firehawk G4

Hi All,


New poster to forum.


Looking at 120" wide 2.35 screen, and am being told that is Firehawk LS (supposedly the same as G4 but used on larger screens). Can someone tell me if this is correct. I cannot seem to find any info on LS.


Thanks in advance.


Vector

 

[Stan-Lee]

Hi All,


New poster to forum.

Looking at 120" wide 2.35 screen, and am being told that is Firehawk LS (supposedly the same as G4 but used on larger screens). Can someone tell me if this is correct. I cannot seem to find any info on LS.

Thanks in advance.
Vector

Absolutely 100% correct. LS = Large Screen. G4 is for the smaller sized screens. Sounds like a nice screen! Keep us posted!

 

[vector54]

Thanks Stan for the quick confirmation!


Still a couple of months away from a completed HT build, but will be using it with a Sony VW600ES. I will report back how they work together.


Regards,
Vector

 

[Stan-Lee]

Gents,

I have a StudioTek G130 with Microperf material. When I play a movie, especially on the dark scenes, I can see a ghost image. It bothers me a lot. I look close to the screen and it looks like some light go through the perfs and are projected on the back of my false wall. Is it possible ? Can a black backing cancel this ghost image ? Is Stewart do a black backing for my screen ?

Thanks a lot for your help and input.

I'm not an expert, but I would think you should try putting a black cloth of some sort behind the screen and see what happens.

 

[BrutaleZEN]

Stan-Lee,

thanks for the recommendation. As it is an acoustically transparent screen, my speakers are behind the screen and my false wall is totally black. Can I use speaker cloth for this (to keep the sound properties) ? How far from the screen should I put it ? Just at the back of the screen fabric or further ?

Thanks

 

[Stan-Lee]

Stan-Lee,

thanks for the recommendation. As it is an acoustically transparent screen, my speakers are behind the screen and my false wall is totally black. Can I use speaker cloth for this (to keep the sound properties) ? How far from the screen should I put it ? Just at the back of the screen fabric or further ?

Thanks

Well, like I confessed, I am no expert but I would try a few locations until the right location or answer is figured out. One of them being directly behind the screen for sure.

 

[Stan-Lee]

Thanks Stan for the quick confirmation!


Still a couple of months away from a completed HT build, but will be using it with a Sony VW600ES. I will report back how they work together.


Regards,
Vector

Just curious....you are going with the FireHawk due to too much ambient light conditions beyond your control?

 

[LJG]

Stewart 4-Way Screenwall Elecrimask problem. The 2 vertical masking panels got extended over the rod about 3 feet longer so when in the fully retracted position they are still 3' of material from top to bottom, when the vertical panel is extended the mask goes 3' past the bottom of the screen.

Is it possible to just rotate the rod counterclockwise to adjust the panels. I am having a dickens of a time trying to adjust the limit stops through the little openings located on the left side of screen frame.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bagis]

If the side cords are too tight, you may get diagonal wrinkling in the lower corners. If the side cords are too loose, you might see vertical undulation in the fabric.

Most of the time the screen material elongates a little bit, the side cords don't stretch as much, and it's good to lengthen the side cords, using the adjustable thimbles on the batten ends. From underneath, you insert a philips #2 screwdriver, turning the screw as if to loosen, will lengthen the side cord. Good luck with it!

I have a 5 months old Model Luxus A Firehawk that has all the indications that the side cord on the left side is too tight. The bottom corner has the diagonal wrinkle, it moves 3 mm longer into the housing compared with the right side, it does not get as flat on the black side bar and the top and botton cord loops are leaning backwards.

I now feel ready to lengten the side cord, but the only problem is that I do not have the philips head on my screws. They are instead bolts screwed into the holes of the plastic leaving little to no room for a socket wrench. Are the side cords fixed in my model or is there another way to adjust the side cord length?



BR//Bagis

 

[m Robinson]

I have a 5 months old Model Luxus A Firehawk that has all the indications that the side cord on the left side is too tight. The bottom corner has the diagonal wrinkle, it moves 3 mm longer into the housing compared with the right side, it does not get as flat on the black side bar and the top and botton cord loops are leaning backwards.

I now feel ready to lengten the side cord, but the only problem is that I do not have the philips head on my screws. They are instead bolts screwed into the holes of the plastic leaving little to no room for a socket wrench. Are the side cords fixed in my model or is there another way to adjust the side cord length?



BR//Bagis

Hello Mr. Bagis,
First, Thank you very much for selecting Stewart Filmscreen for your display! We appreciate the business!

Here is what I would do.
Deploy the screen
Lift the batten on the end you wish to about an inch, or 30 millimeters.
The ferrule which anchors the side cord, is spring loaded. Push it gently down into the batten.
The hex-head bolt will emerge from the bottom of the batten. It's usually easy to move by hand, but if not, use a 5/16" wrench, or a pair of pliers to turn it.
Loosen that hex head about six full turns.
Allow the batten to drop to its normal position.

The side cord should be noticeably looser. If not, repeat the steps.
At the end of the process, you want the side cords to be just tight enough to hold the sides out in position, but no tighter.

If you need more assistance call (800)762-4999,and our Customer Service folks will walk you through it. If you are calling from an international location, use (310)784-5300. Extention 145.

 

[m Robinson]

Stewart 4-Way Screenwall Elecrimask problem. The 2 vertical masking panels got extended over the rod about 3 feet longer so when in the fully retracted position they are still 3' of material from top to bottom, when the vertical panel is extended the mask goes 3' past the bottom of the screen.

Is it possible to just rotate the rod counterclockwise to adjust the panels. I am having a dickens of a time trying to adjust the limit stops through the little openings located on the left side of screen frame.

Any suggestions?

Hello LJG,
Thank you for being a long term Stewart Filmscreen Customer! We appreciate the business.

Does the fabric deploy too far at the bottom of the travel, as well as stopping short at the top?

If not then we only have to address the top stop. Of the two holes you have there, the up stop should be in the lower hole. Run the fabric down to the lower stop. Take a 5/32" tee handle hex wrench and insert it in the hole. Turning the limit switch counter clockwise will increase the travel, therefore allowing more material retraction up into the fascia. Turn that screw counterclockwise two full turns. Run the panel up, leaving your t-handle hex wrench in position. When the panel stops, you can keep creeping the limit upward, by continuing to turn counter clockwise.

Check the bottom limit too. The Somfy progressive limits always require a counter clockwise turn to increase motor travel in the direction you are adjusting.

If a satisfactory solution continues to elude you, call our factory Customer Service line at (800) 762-4999 extension 145. Good Luck!