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I was thinking of buying the CX-A5100 but the otherwise favorable review at Audioholics said the HDMI switching is unusually slow, I guess to reestablish the new handshake. Could anyone here do me a favor and time it?

I'm used to some delay, say 2-4 seconds, but 5 or more seems sketchy. I guess I could live with it but I'm curious what I should expect.

Thanks for your help.
Hello, I have had the CX-A5100 for a about a year and I would say the HDMI switching is almost instantaneous. I have an Oppo BDP 205 and Sony SCD-XA5400ES both using HDMI and I can switch between them very quickly. No way does it take 5 seconds. That's my experience.

MNSACD
 

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I had a thought. Maybe put an HDMI splitter (you leave powered up 24/7) on the output of the Yammy? As I understand it they send back a signal of "I hear you" even when there's no active TV connected to their two outs.
I'm not dead sure that's how it all works though so no guarantees./forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
hmm....

i'm thinking that if i use an hdmi splitter it might be better to set it up at the output of the pc, with one hdmi going to my yammy and the other to my tv... that way the avr doesn't have to be on for me to view my pc (nor do i have to mess with the avr's standby through which has it's own quirks), and when i turn off the tv the pc will still get the "i hear you" from the avr (hopefully)... i'll give it a try and report back.

There is a setting in the cxa5100 to allow throughput. When this is turned on the Yamaha will pass through the audio and video to your tv when it is off.
 

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There is a setting in the cxa5100 to allow throughput. When this is turned on the Yamaha will pass through the audio and video to your tv when it is off.
sounds like you're referring to the avr's "standby through" mode which i mentioned earlier.... in my case it doesn't work particularly well as follows:

avr off (standby through on)
turn on tv
can see my pc screen (including the yammie's web control center)
turn on avr with remote or wcc and tv goes black for about 30 secs, comes back on
start music (spotify), music plays
turn tv off
spotify stops

with the splitter setup i mentioned above, spotify (and other services) will play after turning the tv off, after going silent for about 30 secs... if there was only a way to trick the pc? or avr? into thinking the tv was still on, which it kind of is given i have sleep enabled on the tv instead of off, hmmm...
 

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Hello, I have had the CX-A5100 for a about a year and I would say the HDMI switching is almost instantaneous. I have an Oppo BDP 205 and Sony SCD-XA5400ES both using HDMI and I can switch between them very quickly. No way does it take 5 seconds. That's my experience.

MNSACD
i second this, very fast switching, the only time i had semi slow witching times was when i added a lumagen into the loop... also, fwiw, i'm using my cx-a5100 in a commercial environment, in a restaurant, and i've run it 5 days a week, 10 hours a day, for the past 5+ years, and all it does is work and sound fantastic, couldn't be happier with the purchase.
 

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There is a setting in the cxa5100 to allow throughput. When this is turned on the Yamaha will pass through the audio and video to your tv when it is off.
sounds like you're referring to the avr's "standby through" mode which i mentioned earlier.... in my case it doesn't work particularly well as follows:

avr off (standby through on)
turn on tv
can see my pc screen (including the yammie's web control center)
turn on avr with remote or wcc and tv goes black for about 30 secs, comes back on
start music (spotify), music plays
turn tv off
spotify stops

with the splitter setup i mentioned above, spotify (and other services) will play after turning the tv off, after going silent for about 30 secs... if there was only a way to trick the pc? or avr? into thinking the tv was still on, which it kind of is given i have sleep enabled on the tv instead of off, hmmm...
I would call Yamaha tech support, as mine works just like it should and there is no need for using a splitter. My audio also drops out when I turn the tv off, but it comes back on within a second or two. Your problem could very well be a HDMI handshake problem due to a failure or cable.
 

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Has anybody had success getting AirPlay to work on this device? Trying to use a fairly new iPad streaming Apple TV to a Samgung TV with this receiver.
 

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Not sure but the Airplay function may be music only, not video.
 

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It works for audio... I use it, and it works perfectly with ROON.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 

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i'm stumped and hoping someone can help....

in the past i had a simple setup:

video pc > hdmi > yamaha av1 input
music pc > hdmi > yahma av2 input

i would listen to music in main the zone (selecting av2 input) and at the same time watch/listen to movies files in zone2 (selecting av1 input), worked like a charm, and straightforward.

but since a recent windows update i can only get movie file audio in zone2 to play if i have the main zone set to the same av1 input as zone2.... well that's not entirely true, some files still play fine (for example aac/adts and mpeg audio layer files) but most files (ac3, dts, truehd, dd+, etc.) will only play in zone2 if zone1 is set to the same input.

this is the case with four different movie players i've tried.

fwiw, youtube, netflix, hulu, etc. all play fine without having to set the main zone to the same input as zone2.

any help would be appreciated.


UPDATE:

sorted out - something went south with the latest windows update, corrupted the player codecs / filters, reinstalled all of my players and everything is good as new.
 

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hello,
how can i listen in dolby atmos with a headphone ? just plug it in the headphone input of the 5100, or do i need a special headphone ?
best regards,
frans callebaut
 

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hello,
how can i listen in dolby atmos with a headphone ? just plug it in the headphone input of the 5100, or do i need a special headphone ?
best regards,
frans callebaut
If you plug in standard headphones the unit will downmix the extra channels used in the various Dolby Surround formats, including Atmos, into just the two you have, one per ear. You can listen in conventional mode, "Straight", or since this Yamaha has a "Silent Cinema" feature extra signal processing can be optionally introduced by selecting one of the many surround sound modes using the Program toggle bar, including Dolby, in an attempt to make the headphones sound more "3D" and spacious, as if you were listening to speakers in a room with reflections.

I personally prefer the conventional "Straight" mode for headphone use but it is a personal choice.
 

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hello, thank you for your response. you speak of " standard" headphones. are there others , or is there no possibilty to simulate height channels with headphones ?
best regards,
frans callebaut
 

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Much like the way Yamaha's built in "Silent Cinema" mode will electrically process the signal to simulate the experience of having extra speakers all around you there are companies which sell outboard electronics, sometimes bundled with a pair of their headphones , which also process the signal in an attempt to make the sound more spacious/"3-D".

Unfortunately most of theses systems, including Yamaha's, rely on an assumption that we all have the same HRTF curves for the various directions of sound detection, but we don't, because we all have different shaped outer ears and to a lesser extent head/shoulders. The electrical simulation of how the frequency balance should be altered, "EQ'd", due to the direction the sound strikes the ear to fool the ear into thinking, for example, "This sound is above me" works well for some people and poorly for others. It all depends on how closely your hearing happens to be like their "one size fits all" approach.

This graphic nicely illustrates how the frequency response is skewed by the outer ear or "pinna".

This diagram shows the average responses of many people averaged together*, aka HRTF curves, measured at the eardrum with a tiny probe mic carefully inserted (usually by an audiologist) for various directions/elevations from an accurate, flat sound source:
This following video seems to give a good overview of the topic of aftermarket systems for gaming. I'd like to point out though that accuracy of "gun targeting direction based on sound" is not the same as "sounds realistic for movies/music". For instance, I find the Dolby Headphones processing I have on one of my prepros does make the sound "larger and more spacious" but it seems quite artificial to me and it (understandably) makes everything in the movie sound like I'm in a somewhat reflective room, even when the movie scene isn't. When I listen to C3PO talk to R2D2 in the middle of a Tatooine desert I don't want it to sound like I'm in this fixed sized, reverberant room: In the desert there are no echos!


My assement of these systems is they are gimmicks/BS but they may work well for some people:

The "high end" of these electrical processing versions is made by Smyth but they are way too expensive for me to evaluate. My guess is they may be better than most but still no good for movies/music.
 

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How do I go about getting this?

Scroll down to DTS:X Object Emulator, download the clip. Not sure if you have a computer or BD player that can play the MKV file but.... well, there you go.
 

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Has anyone else seen HDCP2.2 issues with dual displays connected and Roku 4 Ultra as the 4K source?

I recently upgraded one of my displays to 4K (w/HDCP2.2). My 2nd display is only HD capable (w/HDCP1.x). Both displays are connected to HDMI outputs on my Yammy CX-A5100. When I attempt playing 4K content from the Roku to the 4K TV, I get the error that HDCP2.2 is not present and I am limited to HD. If I disconnect the 2ndary display, the error goes away and I can play 4K fine from the Roku.

I do not have the same problem when playing 4K content from my other source (an Xfinity X1 DVR) -- it plays fine to the 4K display even if my HD display remains connected to the AVR's other HDMI port.

So I think the device at fault is the Roku not the AVR, but has anyone else encountered this issue? Its implementation of HDCP2.2 seems to enforce HDCP2.2 in both paths even though only one of the paths in actively displaying video (the 2nd display was always turned off).

I'm guessing I will need to buy an HDCP2.2 circumvention device (HD fury) to put on that 2nd output, to fool the Roku into playing correctly to my 4K source. I don't really want to plug/unplug that 2nd display in order to watch 4K on my new device.
 

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I'm guessing I will need to buy an HDCP2.2 circumvention device (HD fury) to put on that 2nd output, to fool the Roku into playing correctly to my 4K source. I don't really want to plug/unplug that 2nd display in order to watch 4K on my new device.
No need, all you need to do is turn off the second HDMI output from the 5100. The easiest way would be to program a Scene using the web interface. If you have a programmable remote you could do it that way and use macro for a one button push operation. If needed I can post the Pronto hex code. Another option is to use the mobile device app, look under Options and you can turn HDMI Out 1 or 2 On or Off there.
 

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No need, all you need to do is turn off the second HDMI output from the 5100.
I continue to be amazed with all the knobs on this awesome piece of gear. I found the option in the mobile app. I would like to program my Harmony to do this eventually as part of my activities, but not sure that is possible. When I get around to attempting that I might come back with a request for hex codes. Thanks!
 

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i have a yamaha cx-a 5100 and want to connect it to an audèze mobius headphone, not for gaming, but for listening to 5.1 and 7.1 music. can i use the usb connection on the front of the yamaha and connect it to the usb connection on the mobius and so listen in surround 5.1 and 7.1 ?
 

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i have a yamaha cx-a 5100 and want to connect it to an audèze mobius headphone, not for gaming, but for listening to 5.1 and 7.1 music. can i use the usb connection on the front of the yamaha and connect it to the usb connection on the mobius and so listen in surround 5.1 and 7.1 ?
No the USB on the front of the Yamaha is an input, not an output.
 
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