AVS Forum banner

2241 - 2260 of 2708 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,637 Posts
...and fwiw, we have a 3080 and a 5200 and use "Auto" and have used "AI" and have never had a pop.
Same here. I have 2080, 3080, and 5200 systems, use Surround:AI with video material, all without pops. So the pops would seem to be the result of some system configurations/sources perhaps. I really don't believe that the Suround:AI setting is the actual cause. (I use it alot)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hi, I couldn't find the answer after a quick search. Can someone please confirm if it's possible to setup a pair of musiccast 20 as rear-upper-presence (wirelessly)?

I would like a 5.1.2 setup with bi-amped fronts, 1 sub, 2 rears and hopefully a pair of wireless rear on top of bookshelf for an atmos setup

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,224 Posts
Regarding Dolby Atmos appearing on the front display. It was showing up then I re-calibrated the receiver after switching from carpet to hardwood floors in the room. Now. Atmos no longer shows up and it says "straight ". Any idea what is going on?
Thanks Felix.for the info. Do you have any idea why Atmos no longer shows up on the front display?
Make friends with the INFO button (on remote, or front panel, depending upon model). Fully described in the OM.

Hi, I couldn't find the answer after a quick search. Can someone please confirm if it's possible to setup a pair of musiccast 20 as rear-upper-presence (wirelessly)?

I would like a 5.1.2 setup with bi-amped fronts, 1 sub, 2 rears and hopefully a pair of wireless rear on top of bookshelf for an atmos setup
Not entirely sure that's supported, MusicCast is for multi-room playback, not wireless attachment of surround speakers. Check your manual.

BTW, passive bi-amping of main speakers is often a zero-gain endeavor. Really depends upon your speakers (it's usually a marketing gewgaw with no benefit).

https://www.audioholics.com/frequent-questions/the-difference-between-biamping-vs-biwiring


(Note: you didn't mention what model you have, so answers will be guesstimates, presuming you're posting in the correct thread. ;) )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,224 Posts
Depends upon what you consider "significant." Power, connections, features,...? To compare the models, refer to PioManiac's first post in the thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I don't own one yet but I'm considering buying an A2080. So a wireless atmos setup for 2 wireless rear presence is not possible at all?

I understood that without any upper presence all atmos audio is downgraded to plain dolby.

Any alternative for wireless rear upper presence is appreciated :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread

Looks like MusiCast can be used to setup the rear surrounds in a 5.1 setup but doesn’t support 7.1 and beyond.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
...and fwiw, we have a 3080 and a 5200 and use "Auto" and have used "AI" and have never had a pop.
Same here. I have 2080, 3080, and 5200 systems, use Surround:AI with video material, all without pops. So the pops would seem to be the result of some system configurations/sources perhaps. I really don't believe that the Suround:AI setting is the actual cause. (I use it alot)
I'm really glad for you both that you don't have any POP's using AI or Auto on your AVR's.
The idea is that I HAD those POP's, but since I refrain of using either of those modes, I had no more POP's.

Maybe on your units you never had those POP's and maybe this is a issue/problem with just "some" of the products, maybe newly fabricated (I purchased mine in November 2019, for exaple).
BTW, do you have installed the latest 1.80 firmware? I do not have yet!

Actually, I've started some time ago to EXCLUSIVELY use the "Neural:X" mode, and ALL and EVERYTHING I watch sounds much better with this mode, and when there's an Atmos content, this is also decoded accordingly, and displays as Atmos/TrueHD.
And honestly, sometimes I press the AI to compare the same "scene", and it sounds different, usually worse/bad; for example, I LOVE the song at the end of Coraline, and WITH AI engaged, the solo singing in this song, does not sound like coming from the front/"the stage" and "so close" and "intimate" (whispered) as it is normal and intended, but from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", which, for me is not correct at all, and is the same with the choir in the same song, instead to seem to come from the back of the main/solo singer, sounds as comming from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", completely destroying the idea of a "stage" and the EXTREME presence (whispered) of the main/solo singer that is intended in the song. If you don't know this song, just try it, and you'll understand what I meant, and maybe convince you the same as it did to me, that the AI (at least) does not always do a "good job".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Thanks Felix.for the info. Do you have any idea why Atmos no longer shows up on the front display?
Hi @Kevin_Roy,
Have you done what I said in the post #post59585772?
If yes and still no info on the front display, please follow the info on the second post of this thread, there is the specific info that will tell you how to do it.

Also, I don't know about you guys, but I rarely look at the front of my AVR, usually use the "trick" with the Assign 8 described also in that second post, and see on the screen, but also could change on the front display of the AVR (for me it is specially useful when just listening to music [without any display/screen on], to switch between singer/song/decoder/source/etc. information of the currently playing source).

Hope this helps! (and if it is, please "like"-it and the original poster of the info, so that others know it is useful)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,637 Posts
I'm really glad for you both that you don't have any POP's using AI or Auto on your AVR's.
The idea is that I HAD those POP's, but since I refrain of using either of those modes, I had no more POP's.
It was not my intent to challenge your experience, just wanted to point out that it doesn't seem to be a systemic issue with all of these AVRs. Sorry you seem to have taken it that way. I was actually trying to help both you and others to show that Surround:AI may not always be a bad thing.

Maybe on your units you never had those POP's and maybe this is a issue/problem with just "some" of the products, maybe newly fabricated (I purchased mine in November 2019, for exaple).
BTW, do you have installed the latest 1.80 firmware? I do not have yet!
Yes, all three of my 2018 Yamaha AVR/AVPs have been updated. However, I have had these units for almost two years now w/o the problem you have experienced.

Actually, I've started some time ago to EXCLUSIVELY use the "Neural:X" mode, and ALL and EVERYTHING I watch sounds much better with this mode, and when there's an Atmos content, this is also decoded accordingly, and displays as Atmos/TrueHD.
And honestly, sometimes I press the AI to compare the same "scene", and it sounds different, usually worse/bad; for example, I LOVE the song at the end of Coraline, and WITH AI engaged, the solo singing in this song, does not sound like coming from the front/"the stage" and "so close" and "intimate" (whispered) as it is normal and intended, but from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", which, for me is not correct at all, and is the same with the choir in the same song, instead to seem to come from the back of the main/solo singer, sounds as comming from "somewhere above" and "all-over-around", completely destroying the idea of a "stage" and the EXTREME presence (whispered) of the main/solo singer that is intended in the song. If you don't know this song, just try it, and you'll understand what I meant, and maybe convince you the same as it did to me, that the AI (at least) does not always do a "good job".
I usually use Dolby Surround (Dsur) for most material (and I listen to far more music than watch video). In the beginning I did some comparisons between Neural:X and Dsur and in my environment and to my ears I preferred Dsur, though I did find them to be quite simillar. My main two systems are 7.2.4 configurations with the presence speakers located at height positions (all installed long before Atmos and Neural:X came on the scene).

I admit that some video material I watch/listen to sounds better to me in the Dsur mode. The advantage to me for Surround:AI is that movie dialog is often easier to understand than with the other modes. It tends to stand out. Could be my hearing hasn't improved with age... :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
It was not my intent to challenge your experience, just wanted to point out that it doesn't seem to be a systemic issue with all of these AVRs. Sorry you seem to have taken it that way. I was actually trying to help both you and others to show that Surround:AI may not always be a bad thing.
Nope, I did NOT taken it this way, cause I think we're all here to share info and experiences that will help us to achieve better experiences for ourselves, or getting help when something is not "quite as we hoped to be";
and in this specific instance I just wanted to pinpoint that there are MANY of us that got their Yamaha AVR's later than you, and CLEARLY also MANY of us got those POP's, no matter were we are from (and consequently where the equipment was build or build for) Europe, Eastern Europe or US (if you do not saw this yet, check back to this thread and count how many have complained having POP's). I consider this MOST USEFUL for someone that just got his/her Yamaha AVR (or is planning to), since he/she will most likely get one of those that do make POP's when AI or Auto is used or DON'T get POP's when those are NOT used (in my case at least).

Yes, all three of my 2018 Yamaha AVR/AVPs have been updated. However, I have had these units for almost two years now w/o the problem you have experienced.
Again, we see here that you have units that were clearly constructed/produced way before mine, or those that had/have POP's.
But is good to know that the latest firmware is not doing more bad things/issues (in your case at least), and I think I will do my upgrade too, cause until now I refrained from doing so.

I usually use Dolby Surround (Dsur) for most material (and I listen to far more music than watch video). In the beginning I did some comparisons between Neural:X and Dsur and in my environment and to my ears I preferred Dsur, though I did find them to be quite simillar. My main two systems are 7.2.4 configurations with the presence speakers located at height positions (all installed long before Atmos and Neural:X came on the scene).

I admit that some video material I watch/listen to sounds better to me in the Dsur mode. The advantage to me for Surround:AI is that movie dialog is often easier to understand than with the other modes. It tends to stand out. Could be my hearing hasn't improved with age... :(
Sure, for music it is clear that we will use either NO decoder at all (STRAIGHT or even PURE DIRECT), or, in my case, for SACD's I always use Dsur (although the Neural:X does sound EXACTLY the same to me, so I'm using it instead of Dsur).

But for movies, I know from experience that the "Neo:6 Cinema" usually boost the center/dialogue in a movie, and for sure AI does that too, but do you know that you can also boost your Center chanel with the functions in the AVR?
If I recall correctly is called "Dialog Lift" or similar, and I'm using it since my previous Yamaha, the RX-A2040 (that I got in 2014 or 2015, can't recall exactly). Furthermore, the movies that have DTS, by using Neural:X allow you to furtrher adjust the volume just for the dialogue/speach, with some distinct functions that are right there in the "Option" menu (the four horizontal lines on the remote). Maybe this will help you better with your hearing.
I could say that I had only found one or two disks (movies) that where hard to understand the dialogue, but each time I could do something with the settings provided by the AVR (either the 40 or 80), and when I purchased the current AVR (2080), I also got another center channel speaker, an Klipsch R-34C, which sounded MUCH MORE lowder and "right there" (I don't know how exactly to say it), but was quite disturbing being TOO "present" compared with my other speakers which are all from the same producer and same model; therefore I've changed back with my own center, which sounds lot better and fuller to me (and also to someone else that come and observed this).

So I guess that that center Klipsch is specially designed to bring the speach up and to make it clear, so I would suggest to try one of their speakers, one that fits best with your other speakers, and, who knows, you'll enjoy the movies more (with better dialogue), and then maybe, even the Neural:X mode will sound to you better too... :cool::p
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
26,606 Posts
So, if I purchase directly from Amazon (who is shown on Yamaha's website as an Authorized Dealer) and their price when I purchased was less than MSRP, I have no warranty?
Most manufacturers will honor the warranty from any dealer due to www.ftc.gov . I never said no warranty, I said authorized dealer's have to advertise at MSRP. Amazon third party sellers are what they are, some are authorized some are not. In the end, on that day you bought, your dealer violated there contracts they signed knowingly or on accident.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,628 Posts
Most manufacturers will honor the warranty from any dealer due to www.ftc.gov . I never said no warranty, I said authorized dealer's have to advertise at MSRP. Amazon third party sellers are what they are, some are authorized some are not. In the end, on that day you bought, your dealer violated there contracts they signed knowingly or on accident.
Like I stated, it was directly from Amazon, not a 3rd party seller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Hi All,

I have an a3080 with a 5.1.4 setup. 5 primary are going to a separate 5 channel amp, and the 4 ceiling presence speakers are powered by the a3080. Everything is working pretty well, but am looking to add a zone 2 to power some patio speakers and I am seeing conflicting information and reading the manual hasn't helped.

I am looking to get an additional 2 channel amplifier to power my zone 2 speakers, but I am unsure if this is supported based on how I have things hooked up. I do not see a Power Amp Assign config that matches what I am looking for, so would appreciate any feedback. The closest would be the 5.2.4 Bi-Amp. Ideally I would leverage the zone2 preouts into the external 2 channel amp, and still have the .4 speakers powered from the a3080.

Seems like my assumptions on the 11 channel processing was incorrect and will likely need to have a completely different solution for my pation :-/

Advice/Help is much appreciated!

Thanks,
Greg

The A3080 can do this with no problem. I have an A3080 with a 7.2.4 setup plus a Zone 2 pair for my back porch. It works fine, and I can run them all simultaneously with no need to sacrifice a presence pair or anything. (In fact, I just tested it with an Atmos Blu-Ray in the main room and internet radio playing in Zone 2. All speakers were operating normally.) I use a Power Amp Assign of "7.2.4 [ext. Front]", with my Front LR and Center speakers and Zone 2 speakers all on an external amp. The surrounds and overheads are all driven by the A3080. (I could connect the surrounds to an external amp as well, but don't see the need.)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Need help this will be kinda long winded to explain. I have the A3080.
I have a PC, Nvidia Shield, Xbox and PC setup as a media server connected to the AVR.
What is happening is when I am on the main PC it will just lock up the screen will go black and the "piano wallpaper" will come up like there is not signal.
No when it was not getting a signal I hit CtrAltDel, I then cut off the AVR and turned it back on and the picture came and the Windows lock screen was up. So this made me think the PC is not locking up it has to be something in either the AVR or HDMI cable or connection.
I does this a few times a week, now yesterday I was on the PC and switched over to the Shield, it showed the Shield input on the AVR, but was still showing the PC screen also tried with Xbox at same time and same result.
I had to actually turn the PC off for it show the Shield, and once the PC was back up it was switching properly.

Does any of this sound like and HDMI board problem, or should I try some new, different brand cables?
So for the long post just hard to explain it all.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
504 Posts
Try resetting the video board via the Advanced Menu.
It does sound like an EDID issue being caused by your PC...
Have you updated the graphics card on your computer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Thinking of getting a 1080 or 2080 to replace my rxv1800. I'm not sure I'll be going the Atmos route though so this might remain a 5.1 system for now. Would there be any discernible difference in sound quality most importantly? I saw the new models to be released later this year and I'm not a fan of the aesthetics.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Try resetting the video board via the Advanced Menu.
It does sound like an EDID issue being caused by your PC...
Have you updated the graphics card on your computer?
Hey thanks for the response, I am looking at the manual right now and under "Advanced Menu" I see a "4K Mode" "Selects the HDMI 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signal format."
Is this the setting you are talking about? If so will check that out when I get home today.

Thanks.
 
2241 - 2260 of 2708 Posts
Top