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Thanks rdgrimes and Chromejob for your fast reply.
I've Nvidia Sheild TV with HDMI and it works fine with Yamaha 3080 video and audio plays. When playing with Oppo BDP 93 the any audio files plays but there is no Audio (sound).
I think @rdgrimes has a clue here, the Oppo 93 is a 2012-ish model and may have compatibility issues. Click the link for help.

This page might provide some help, too. Make sure that HDMI Audio is not set to OFF. Based that page's info, I'd try Auto, then switch to Bitstream if that doesn't work.

As I suggested, find some digital media files that don't play from the Oppo (according to the manual, you can play from a USB or e-SATA drive), then try them via the AVR's USB drive.

eARC via firmware update confirmed for 2018 Yamaha AVRs. You can check it on the Yamaha website.
Link please?
 

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I think @rdgrimes has a clue here, the Oppo 93 is a 2012-ish model and may have compatibility issues. Click the link for help.

This page might provide some help, too. Make sure that HDMI Audio is not set to OFF. Based that page's info, I'd try Auto, then switch to Bitstream if that doesn't work.

As I suggested, find some digital media files that don't play from the Oppo (according to the manual, you can play from a USB or e-SATA drive), then try them via the AVR's USB drive.


Link please?
Hi,
Today recieved a mail from Oppo Technical Support team and they provided a firmware upgrade for my Oppo BDP 93. I'l install it and revert back.
Thank you all .
 

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Thanks rdgrimes and Chromejob for your fast reply.
I've Nvidia Sheild TV with HDMI and it works fine with Yamaha 3080 video and audio plays. When playing with Oppo BDP 93 the any audio files plays but there is no Audio (sound).
Your problem is HDCP. Please read the last few pages in the BDP-93 thread, this has been discussed at length.
 

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Looking for help enabling the pre-outs on an A1080. Trying to set up an external PA. The OM pg 31, "Connecting an external power amplifier", shows the setup but not the configuration settings to get there. My Polk front towers are 4 ohm, and an older Nikko PA drove them great for many years. My new A1080 has already gone into protect mode once and I'd like to prevent it.

External porch (Zone 2) speakers are also 4 ohm. The A1080 doesn't seem to like less than 6 ohm, despite what their web specs say.

The setup app displays an "external PA: disabled" mode but no info or option to enable it.
 

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Looking for help enabling the pre-outs on an A1080. Trying to set up an external PA. The OM pg 31, "Connecting an external power amplifier", shows the setup but not the configuration settings to get there. My Polk front towers are 4 ohm, and an older Nikko PA drove them great for many years. My new A1080 has already gone into protect mode once and I'd like to prevent it.

External porch (Zone 2) speakers are also 4 ohm. The A1080 doesn't seem to like less than 6 ohm, despite what their web specs say.

The setup app displays an "external PA: disabled" mode but no info or option to enable it.
The preamp outputs are always active in the main zone. Just connect the RCA to your amp and cables to your speakers. Nothing more is needed.

For zone2 you may need to change an option in the speaker configuration.

The setting to change the speaker impedance is only there to limit current output so the receiver doesn't go into protect mode. Lower it if this happens (as in your case). Otherwise leave it at the higher of the two options (which I believe is 8 Ohm). This only applies to speakers connected directly to the receiver. If you are using an external power amplifier this setting does not apply.
 

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^^^ Doesn't Zone 2 have its own dedicated analog output? No configuration required, but you do have to turn on the power to Zone 2 with the remote.
 

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... My Polk front towers are 4 ohm, and an older Nikko PA drove them great for many years. My new A1080 has already gone into protect mode once and I'd like to prevent it.

External porch (Zone 2) speakers are also 4 ohm. The A1080 doesn't seem to like less than 6 ohm, despite what their web specs say.
If your AVR has gone into protect mode, that's one big whopping giant-size clue that you may be overdriving the amp with those 4 ohm speakers. Are they technically rated that way? Did they come from an HTiB?

I would enable the 6 ohm mode in Advanced Setup if using any of those speakers further (OM p. 23, p. 138). Note in most Yamaha AVRs this only protects against left and right speakers, and other speakers must be 8 ohm, but the 1080 OM doesn't specify this that I can see. :confused: If you're driving your AVR near reference volume, strongly recommend 8 ohm speakers. :D
 

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If your AVR has gone into protect mode, that's one big whopping giant-size clue that you may be overdriving the amp with those 4 ohm speakers. Are they technically rated that way? Did they come from an HTiB?

I would enable the 6 ohm mode in Advanced Setup if using any of those speakers further (OM p. 23, p. 138). Note in most Yamaha AVRs this only protects against left and right speakers, and other speakers must be 8 ohm, but the 1080 OM doesn't specify this that I can see. :confused: If you're driving your AVR near reference volume, strongly recommend 8 ohm speakers. :D
At 6 ohm mode decrease power voltage supplying all power amplifier, for all channels.
 

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If your AVR has gone into protect mode, that's one big whopping giant-size clue that you may be overdriving the amp with those 4 ohm speakers. Are they technically rated that way? Did they come from an HTiB?
The front towers are Polk LSi15s (specs). Yep--4 ohm and measure out that way. Very good sound when driven properly.

The Zone 2 speakers are 6.5" marine cones on an outside porch ceiling. They meter out at about 4 ohm also. Hunted around yesterday and it looks like all similar speakers are 4 ohm. Go figure. Didn't think I was running either set too loud but still triggered protect mode a few weeks back. Service center factory reset got it back to life.

I figured out what was wrong with the pre-outs. Operator error. Wasn't turning the AVR vol up enough to get them driven. The system is much happier now that both the Polks and the Zone 2 cones are breathing from a 130 Watts /ch @ 4 ohm amp; 80's Japanese goodness. Plus Zone 1 and Zone 2 are back in sync. There is enough of a delay between Z1 and Z2 inthe A1080 that when the door was open to the porch it sounded like a bad echo. Not much "processing delay" between the A and B very-analog circuits on that old PA block.

Tnx to all that weighed in. Pity Yamaha specs the A1080 for 4 ohm outputs on the web site but not in the OM. Or the design.
 

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Is it best to run from cable box 1080p HDMI to my Yamaha 3080 (and then to 4k TV) or cable 1080p to 4k TV and send audio from TV to my Yamaha AVR?
I'm upgrading from a 2012 Pioneer Plasma HD1080p TV to a 2018 LG OLED UHD4K.

I have always connected my Cable HDMI and Sony 4kUHD Blue-Ray to my Yamaha AVR and then to my Plasma TV, and this has worked great.
I am questioning the alternate sequence as most programming from the cable box will be 1080p which will be upconverted to 4k.
In general, does the Yamaha AVR or the LG UHD TV do a better job at upconverting?
Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
 

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Is it best to run from cable box 1080p HDMI to my Yamaha 3080 (and then to 4k TV) or cable 1080p to 4k TV and send audio from TV to my Yamaha AVR?
I'm upgrading from a 2012 Pioneer Plasma HD1080p TV to a 2018 LG OLED UHD4K.

I have always connected my Cable HDMI and Sony 4kUHD Blue-Ray to my Yamaha AVR and then to my Plasma TV, and this has worked great.
I am questioning the alternate sequence as most programming from the cable box will be 1080p which will be upconverted to 4k.
In general, does the Yamaha AVR or the LG UHD TV do a better job at upconverting?
Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
You can experiment and see which upconversion you prefer. However, you don't need to go direct to the display to enable display upconversion. You can go direct to the Yamaha and use a setup for it's upconversion; or you can setup for a pass through which doesn't touch the video.

I definitely prefer my Sony Z9D's upconversion if compared to the Yamaha. My Yamaha is setup for pass through.
 
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My Amazon 4K Firestick works fine plugged directly into my Sony A9F TV, BUT not at all plugged into my Yamaha 3080 receiver. I've tried 3 different inputs on the 3080, 2 different firesticks. The first firestick worked for 3 weeks then stopped. Makes me think I hit a setting on the 3080 somehow, but haven;t a clue what. Anyone know what's going on here? Thank you.

I'm using a Fire TV Stick 4K plugged directly into my 3080 and it works fine. My TV is an LG UH8500 though. Make sure the 3080 is set to 4K Mode 1 (pg. 161 in the manual). Other than that, my only guess is something to do with Dolby Vision. The Fire TV stick defaults to DV for the home menu. I know the Sonys use a different DV profile from everyone else, so assuming your A9F has the DV firmware update, maybe there's an incompatibility somewhere in the chain? I don't have a Sony, so I have no way to test that.
 

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... Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
You're in it. As per previous discussions in the Yamaha owners' threads, using HDMI-ARC or S/PDIF to pass the audio back through the TV may downconvert it to those limitations, namely DD/DD+ multichannel, or PCM 2.0. When possible, use your AVR as the hub.
 
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YPAO and mini dsp

It's actually not a 10/20/3080, but their brother, the cx-a5200.

I've run YPAO, set all the speakers to small/80hz and it sounds great.

Right now, the two subs are in opposing corners - one of two places they will fit - although they could alternatively sit in the front L/R corners, the opposing setup seems to provide more tactile response.

From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)
 

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Just bumping this up... has anyone ever lost connectivity to their wireless surrounds?

I have a 1080 that’s been working fine since it got it. Setup has been the same. Wired Mains center and Sub. MusicCast 20s as wireless Surrounds as my rears. Have had 0 problems. Then today rears suddenly have no sound.
I’ve turned everything on an off, unplugged everything, unlinked and relinked rears, tested playing directly to the rears through both air play and Spotify connect as solo speakers and as musiccast stereo link works perfect. Relinked everything, system says they’re linked, network is fine, when I hit power on one of them they turn off the receiver so the link is clearly there. But can’t get any sound out of them, not on any input, through any preset, not even a straight test tone. Not sure where to troubleshoot next. Any help would be great. Thanks! - TM
 
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