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I definitely prefer my Sony Z9D's upconversion if compared to the Yamaha. My Yamaha is setup for pass through.
Now, because you are talking about it, may I ask which is the best for upconversion in my chain?

Himedia Q30 > RX-A2080 > LG OLED55B7.

Now Himedia sending out 1080p/2160p (or XboxOneX 2160p) > AVR set always 4K > TV

I thought the AVR has the best upscaling system, that's why I set AVR to 4K. Should I set to through and do it with the TV? I know it depends on the AVR + TV, but I still don't know and maybe someone has information in this exact case.
 

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It's actually not a 10/20/3080, but their brother, the cx-a5200.

I've run YPAO, set all the speakers to small/80hz and it sounds great.

Right now, the two subs are in opposing corners - one of two places they will fit - although they could alternatively sit in the front L/R corners, the opposing setup seems to provide more tactile response.

From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)
You could start with the mic and REW first, take some measurements and see what you are dealing with first before introducing the MiniDSP into the chain. You can do a lot with the 4 bands of sub EQ that Yamaha gives you.
 

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Now, because you are talking about it, may I ask which is the best for upconversion in my chain?



Himedia Q30 > RX-A2080 > LG OLED55B7.



Now Himedia sending out 1080p/2160p (or XboxOneX 2160p) > AVR set always 4K > TV



I thought the AVR has the best upscaling system, that's why I set AVR to 4K. Should I set to through and do it with the TV? I know it depends on the AVR + TV, but I still don't know and maybe someone has information in this exact case.
I don't think you can define one as best. They are all likely different (and average) and you just need to decide which one you prefer.

Personally I never use the AVR. I find there is too much noise reduction and smoothing that comes with it. But I'll admit I haven't done exhaustive testing on the 3080.

The TV is nothing special but it is better than most of the cheap streaming devices out there. I have no experience with the Q30 to comment.
 

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It's been a while since I bought a new AVR. My Denon 4520CI went on the blink recently, 6 years old, and now I am considering a new AVR giving the 1080 some consideration. Until then my 11 year old Onkyo is running the show after sitting idle on a shelf in the basement for the past 6 years lol. Just something about the newer AVRs with the upgraded HDMI inputs/outputs that I question. I am running the older HDMIs (1.3 I believe) from my AVR to TV and from OPPO to AVR and cable box set to AVR. Will the older cables still work with the newer AVRs? Am I missing something if I don't upgrade to the 2.0 or whatever?
 

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From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz.
I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
 

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I'm using a Fire TV Stick 4K plugged directly into my 3080 and it works fine. My TV is an LG UH8500 though. Make sure the 3080 is set to 4K Mode 1 (pg. 161 in the manual). Other than that, my only guess is something to do with Dolby Vision. The Fire TV stick defaults to DV for the home menu. I know the Sonys use a different DV profile from everyone else, so assuming your A9F has the DV firmware update, maybe there's an incompatibility somewhere in the chain? I don't have a Sony, so I have no way to test that.

DV is fine on my A9F, was working with the previous firestick until it wasn't, DV works fine on the ATV. Can you please tell me how do I find the 4K mode 1 on the 3080- i'm not seeing it in the menus? Thank you for your help.
 

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It's been a while since I bought a new AVR. My Denon 4520CI went on the blink recently, 6 years old, and now I am considering a new AVR giving the 1080 some consideration. Until then my 11 year old Onkyo is running the show after sitting idle on a shelf in the basement for the past 6 years lol. Just something about the newer AVRs with the upgraded HDMI inputs/outputs that I question. I am running the older HDMIs (1.3 I believe) from my AVR to TV and from OPPO to AVR and cable box set to AVR. Will the older cables still work with the newer AVRs? Am I missing something if I don't upgrade to the 2.0 or whatever?

Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
 

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DV is fine on my A9F, was working with the previous firestick until it wasn't, DV works fine on the ATV. Can you please tell me how do I find the 4K mode 1 on the 3080- i'm not seeing it in the menus? Thank you for your help.

It's not in the regular menus. You have to access the advanced setup menu on the front panel. See Pg. 158 in the manual. The 4K mode is described on Pg. 161.
 

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Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
No, I have no 4K TV, so I guess I am good with the old cables for now. Thanks.
 

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I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
No, the frequencies should be going to the sub. I believe most people are referring to YPAO's inability to test and assign PEQ below 35 Hz or so.

Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
Buy "Certified." Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable sell them. I've had bad luck with Amazon Basics cables in the past, and noname or off-brand cables on Amazon are IMHO a crap shoot.

About the halfway point in this thread there was a discussion about the bubble in the AV Controller app. I’m having trouble finding the “bubble”. Here’s my view:
Bubble? You realize that you can search for the answer in teh "Search this topic" box at the top of page? It only takes a few seconds. :rolleyes:

...

 

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About the halfway point in this thread there was a discussion about the bubble in the AV Controller app. I’m having trouble finding the “bubble”. Here’s my view:
You need to select one of the DSP modes first for the screen to change and then you will have a choice between one finger adjust (bubble shown over listening area) or the advanced mode which is enabled after you touch on the pencil icon.
 

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You could start with the mic and REW first, take some measurements and see what you are dealing with first before introducing the MiniDSP into the chain. You can do a lot with the 4 bands of sub EQ that Yamaha gives you.
Thanks.

I thought a MiniDSP was need to do the measurements. From your comment, it sounds like you can hook the UMK-1 directly to a laptop for measurements. I obviously need to do some reading. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Thanks.

I thought a MiniDSP was need to do the measurements. From your comment, it sounds like you can hook the UMK-1 directly to a laptop for measurements. I obviously need to do some reading. Thanks for the reply.
Yup, UMIK connected to your laptop that's running REW (which is what I do). Take some measurements. You can then use the manual PEQ in the Yamaha to make adjustments and measure again. I think it only gives you 4 bands of PEQ and the frequency selection is limited. As was pointed out, there's quite a lot you can do with that though. If you still can't get what you want with the Yamaha PEQ, add the miniDSP between the sub and Yamaha subwoofer output to make further EQ adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #656 (Edited)
From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)

I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
It means the mic supplied with your AVR and the software (YPAO) are not capable of measuring/correction of frequencies below 31.3Hz
If your sub is capable of playing below 31.3Hz it will certainly "play" content below that level, but if you have Peaks, Standing Waves, Nuls, Room Modes etc,
then YPAO will not make any EQ adjustments to your frequency response like it does for frequencies above the 31.3Hz "cut-off".

a UMIK-1 calibrated usb mic (~$75) or similar, that is capable of measuring down to single digit frequencies, can help
when used with a laptop and REW (free software download) Link: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

REW How To: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1449924-simplified-rew-setup-use-usb-mic-hdmi-connection-including-measurement-techniques-how-interpret-graphs-10.html#post22823228

Once you get accurate data on what your room is really doing with your sub(s) you can relocate your subs, or seating position,
add bass traps etc, to help correct any issues...you can also make Manual PEQ corrections in your Yamaha down to 16Hz to help tame any peaks you may have in your FR. (Frequency Response)
Nuls (aka a "dip") in your FR cannot really be fixed in software, you need to make physical room corrections or add more subs to even out your room across all seating positions.

A miniDSP is simply another tool that can be used to further tweak your sub(s) FR outside of the Yamaha's somewhat limited LFE/ULF 4 bands of EQ/calibration capabilities,
You can time align up to 4 separate sub output channels, and there are 10 bands of EQ at your disposal for each sub channel, all the way down to 10Hz.

I have 4 subs, capable down to ~10Hz and a bit over 14K watts of peak output power
and 4 Crowson motion actuators that are good down to ~3Hz....all running through my miniDSP 2x4HD.

I also use my miniDSP 2x4HD (~$200) to load Bass EQ (BEQ) low shelf frequency adjustments on the input channels.
Check out the BEQ thread if you get a chance, We have over 600 movie titles on the list so far that have restored the LFE/ULF on titles that have been heavily filtered.




More info here: Bass EQ for Filtered Movies

 
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Hi everyone

I just got the Yamaha RX-V2085 (identical to the 2080). This my first Yamaha receiver and I'm trying to figure out how to best set up the different surround modes based on source. It's connected to a 5.1.2 (soon to be 7.1.2) system. There A LOT of different surround options and DSP modes, on top of the Surround:AI mode, and I'm not sure how to best configure the receiver so that 2.1, 5.1, 7.1, Atmos and DTS-X movies play at their best and give the best sense of surround.

I would love to get some feedback from owners as to how you guys have your AVR setup fro all these sources.

Thanks!
 

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You need to select one of the DSP modes first for the screen to change and then you will have a choice between one finger adjust (bubble shown over listening area) or the advanced mode which is enabled after you touch on the pencil icon.
Thanks. One of the DSP modes is highlighted with a blue outline, is that what you mean by select or is there another way to select the DSP to get that screen up? This can't be that hard and I watched the video on it and still can't get it.
 

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