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I’m interested in trying out the AI dsp I guess it is. Anyone have an opinion on this feature? Can it be used for everything including Atmos and DTS X?

Surround AI: A year ago when I got my 2080, after a few weeks I turned on (just wondered why I don't use it? It's a top class feature of Yamaha). Of course I wanted as big action as it can be! :)

You can use it on everything. Sometimes I use "multich stereo", so I can hear all speakers, but this is the only usage when I don't like AI, simply DTS, Dolby is better, sounds more natural.
On movies, TV shows it makes bigger-better, a bit more colourful sound. You get bigger "bubble" feeling, you can really feel you are in the movie/there, but you get this with more echoes. Like Stadium or Hall DSP, not much, but you can hear, and in fact maybe it shouldn't be there. Slightly louder voice and effects from all speakers, but I still felt - the movie - a bit more in front.

Just write this, because a few days ago turned off on all sources and at the very first movie I clearly heard the difference. It was just a bit less, but maybe that's it. Even it was less i felt myself more in the center (not in the movie, more in the center). What if this is the filmmaker's intend? What if he's work is better than the AI? But perhaps if you put those two together you get the best, maybe.

Now I think it's something like on the TV settings (soap opera effect), so like it or not (me not), it can be better for some and you have the possibility to turn on or off. It depends on the user.
 

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So your using splitters on each sub so you don’t have to raise the gain as much on the subs?
When I just started out during some research I read that using a Y splitter would increase the output of the subs (I believe 3db or so) by using a y splitter so I installed them. The intent at the time was to increase the sub output and I figured the splitters would input additional signal to the sub, then the controls on the sub would use that additional signal allowing greater bass output.

Over time I started and pretty much exclusively run YPAO even in 2 channel music listening.

Before i run YPAO I set the gain and volume mid way on the subs and usually don't touch them except in the rare occurrence I turn up the volume on the subs when I watch movies to get big bass effect...
 

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Using a y-splitter to connect a sub output on AVR to both L/R Inputs on a sub adds 6dB input gain but no additional output. This means YPAO will set the sw level for that sub 6dB lower to compensate vs no splitter and single RCA from AVR to sub.

(Benefits are potentially improved signal to noise ratio and not needing to increase the sub gain as much.)

Using y-splitter to connect one sub output on AVR to 2 subs will not add 6dB input gain to either sub, but will let YPAO treat dual subs as one.

*However, you will need to level or gain match subs and set appropriate delays if subs are not equidistant from the MLP either with sub amp controls or a MiniDSP 2x4 or the like.

(Benefits are YPAO sets the combined sub output as desired. Downside is that it doesn't level match and time align dual subs automatically.)
 

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Surround AI: A year ago when I got my 2080, after a few weeks I turned on (just wondered why I don't use it? It's a top class feature of Yamaha). Of course I wanted as big action as it can be! :)

You can use it on everything. Sometimes I use "multich stereo", so I can hear all speakers, but this is the only usage when I don't like AI, simply DTS, Dolby is better, sounds more natural.
On movies, TV shows it makes bigger-better, a bit more colourful sound. You get bigger "bubble" feeling, you can really feel you are in the movie/there, but you get this with more echoes. Like Stadium or Hall DSP, not much, but you can hear, and in fact maybe it shouldn't be there. Slightly louder voice and effects from all speakers, but I still felt - the movie - a bit more in front.

Just write this, because a few days ago turned off on all sources and at the very first movie I clearly heard the difference. It was just a bit less, but maybe that's it. Even it was less i felt myself more in the center (not in the movie, more in the center). What if this is the filmmaker's intend? What if he's work is better than the AI? But perhaps if you put those two together you get the best, maybe.

Now I think it's something like on the TV settings (soap opera effect), so like it or not (me not), it can be better for some and you have the possibility to turn on or off. It depends on the user.
Thanks for the response. My only wish for AI is to use on movies. Would you recommend it over Atmos?
 

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Thanks for the response. My only wish for AI is to use on movies. Would you recommend it over Atmos?
As I mentioned above I used it for a year and I was happy with it. Now I changed my mind and turned off and we will see, but I can hear the - very small - difference. Literally you won't lose anything, because it adds "something more" to the sound. It's not black or white, so you may not even notice the difference. Try it in short scenes, when someone talks/walks in a big hall, conference room, tunnel or in MadMax, when Max "talking with the voices in his head".
 

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Thanks for the response. My only wish for AI is to use on movies. Would you recommend it over Atmos?
As I mentioned above I used it for a year and I was happy with it. Now I changed my mind and turned off and we will see, but I can hear the - very small - difference. Literally you won't lose anything, because it adds "something more" to the sound. It's not black or white, so you may not even notice the difference. Try it in short scenes, when someone talks/walks in a big hall, conference room, tunnel or in MadMax, when Max "talking with the voices in his head".
Thanks again will experiment with it
 

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That's because with Yamaha's logic, if you're choosing 2 independent subs - it means you are placing them at 2 different places. Summing up the SPL for 2 subs in 2 different locations means the user is responsible to set the appropriate gain value on the sub itself. Yamaha has been doing it this way since... more than a decade ago.
Well yamaha’s logic doesn’t seem very logical to me. Lol. But thanks for the reply.
 

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Well yamaha’️s logic doesn’️t seem very logical to me. Lol. But thanks for the reply.
I agree. They've done a lot of dumb, weird things since the 80s. So yes, their logic is flawed.
Also agree on this. It's quirky but you do get used to the quirks, or work around them. Subwoofer handling on Yamaha by YPAO is bad. Better to use a single output of the AVR and drive multiple subs with a MiniDSP 2x4 HD. If you don't want to use a MiniDSP, try a Y-splitter and drive both subs off the same channel and YPAO will set the levels and EQ them as one. The only thing that may be wonky is the distance setting if your subs aren't a similar distance from the listening seats.

The best way to tune multiple subs is:

1) Set levels and distances individually.

2) Recheck combined levels after tuning individual levels and distances and set group level appropriately.

3) Check for any big nulls. That would be phase, distance, or room modes causing problems. You can't address big nulls with PEQ, so they have to be addressed by more subs, different phases, delays or positions, or room treatments.

4) PEQ out any really high peaks that happen in the combined output that are caused by individual subs (the same peaks only appear in one or a few channels) from the individual subs. It is easier to tame overall response if the biggest problems caused by individual drivers are addressed first.

5) the PEQ the remaining response, which should be a bit flatter after fixing individual big issues in #3 and #4 above, with all four subs as one.

YPAO doesn't do this.

You can do it manually with MiniDSP and moving subs around, changing dials on the subs, or adding room treatment.

Dirac Bass Management (BM) should work similar to this (except it may have a problem with nulls that can't be addressed by phase / delay that it can't solve either and you'll need to manually move subs and add treatment). It will do a better job with individual sub EQ since it can adjust and tune millions of times faster than you can manually.
 

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Also agree on this. It's quirky but you do get used to the quirks, or work around them. Subwoofer handling on Yamaha by YPAO is bad. Better to use a single output of the AVR and drive multiple subs with a MiniDSP 2x4 HD. If you don't want to use a MiniDSP, try a Y-splitter and drive both subs off the same channel and YPAO will set the levels and EQ them as one. The only thing that may be wonky is the distance setting if your subs aren't a similar distance from the listening seats.

The best way to tune multiple subs is:

1) Set levels and distances individually.

2) Recheck combined levels after tuning individual levels and distances and set group level appropriately.

3) Check for any big nulls. That would be phase, distance, or room modes causing problems. You can't address big nulls with PEQ, so they have to be addressed by more subs, different phases, delays or positions, or room treatments.

4) PEQ out any really high peaks that happen in the combined output that are caused by individual subs (the same peaks only appear in one or a few channels) from the individual subs. It is easier to tame overall response if the biggest problems caused by individual drivers are addressed first.

5) the PEQ the remaining response, which should be a bit flatter after fixing individual big issues in #3 and #4 above, with all four subs as one.

YPAO doesn't do this.

You can do it manually with MiniDSP and moving subs around, changing dials on the subs, or adding room treatment.

Dirac Bass Management (BM) should work similar to this (except it may have a problem with nulls that can't be addressed by phase / delay that it can't solve either and you'll need to manually move subs and add treatment). It will do a better job with individual sub EQ since it can adjust and tune millions of times faster than you can manually.
Tried just going off one channel, and didn’t work out so well with 3 subs and splitting the distance. Get a bad dip at the crossover point that way. My two subs in back are equally spaced, and my front sub is about 4’ further. I actually got a pretty flat response with the 4 bands of peq. Not as good as x32 , Really wish there was a Global peq adjustments for the subs, instead of having to put the same filters in each of the subs. And why does ypao eq the subs individually? Every thing I’ve read said that’s a bad idea and doesn’t work as well as eq’ing all the subs together
 

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I’m on firmware 1.65, and the receiver wants to install a new firmware. Latest that I can find on the yamaha site for a 3080 is 1.65. Is there a new firmware? If there is, is there a read me file or list of changes somewhere?

Thanks
 

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Using a y-splitter to connect a sub output on AVR to both L/R Inputs on a sub adds 6dB input gain but no additional output. This means YPAO will set the sw level for that sub 6dB lower to compensate vs no splitter and single RCA from AVR to sub.

(Benefits are potentially improved signal to noise ratio and not needing to increase the sub gain as much.)
This is what I suspected.
 

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Hi guys, owner of 2080 here.
2 quick questions about CEC and turning on:

I have a Samsung KS-8000, Cec (anynet) enabled, and also every single HDMI CEC/control feature enabled on RX-A2080.

1) Whole system turns on/off ONLY with samsungs little remote. I'd like to do that with Yamaha remote, any idea how ? :)
2) Every time I turn the AVR on, it always goes to HDMI 1, after 10 seconds or so. For example, I turned the system off, while I was playing PS4 (HDMI 2), and then I turn it on after some time, it goes on HDMI 1 (Nvidia shield), and its really annoying sometimes. Why does this happen? Any way I can set my AVR to just stay on whichever source it was turned on?

Thanks!
 

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Atmos Options

Hello Yamaha Aventage owners! I'm thinking of getting the RX-A2080, and I have a question. I'm looking to add the final .2 to my 5.1 setup. I've been doing a bunch of research, and I'm bouncing back and forth between the following configurations in this order of preference:

  1. Front heights mounted. (Polk Audio S10 w/Monoprice low profile brackets)
    - Pros: Give me the most flexibility. Easy to install.
    - Cons: Sub-optimal for Atmos compared to ceiling.
  2. Front heights in-wall. (Polk Audio RC65i)
    - Pros: Look much nicer than the above.
    - Cons: Sub-optimal for Atmos. Cannot redirect sound field if front-firing doesn't give desired effect.
  3. Ceiling. (OSD 6.5” Angled Ceiling Audio Speaker)
    - Pros: Optimal for Atmos.
    - Cons: Difficult to install. Duct work might be in the way.
Is there anybody here have a 5.1.2 setup using front heights for Atmos that can weigh in? And if you do are they in-wall or mounted? Is it worth it? Thanks!
 

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Hi guys, owner of 2080 here.
2 quick questions about CEC and turning on:

I have a Samsung KS-8000, Cec (anynet) enabled, and also every single HDMI CEC/control feature enabled on RX-A2080.

1) Whole system turns on/off ONLY with samsungs little remote. I'd like to do that with Yamaha remote, any idea how ? :)
2) Every time I turn the AVR on, it always goes to HDMI 1, after 10 seconds or so. For example, I turned the system off, while I was playing PS4 (HDMI 2), and then I turn it on after some time, it goes on HDMI 1 (Nvidia shield), and its really annoying sometimes. Why does this happen? Any way I can set my AVR to just stay on whichever source it was turned on?

Thanks!
If I turn off the LG TV it turns off the AVR, the Xbox also turns on/off the AVR, but the Yamaha remote only turns off the AVR, but not the TV. I think this is how it should work (the AVR contols only the AVR, but not the TV).
 

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Is there anybody here have a 5.1.2 setup using front heights for Atmos that can weigh in? And if you do are they in-wall or mounted? Is it worth it? Thanks!
If you use Front height you will hear most of the height effects from front (above the tv or between the tv and you), not above the MLP. That's why I started my 5.1.2 with this and now the 5.2.4 with this. So I think you should go with the ceiling or consider the L/R sidewalls if you want only 2 height speakers. With 4 height speakers the front and back height placement good too, just not with 2.
 
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If you use Front height you will hear most of the height effects from front (above the tv or between the tv and you), not above the MLP. That's why I started my 5.1.2 with this and now the 5.2.4 with this. So I think you should go with the ceiling or consider the L/R sidewalls if you want only 2 height speakers. With 4 height speakers the front and back height placement good too, just not with 2.
Thank you so much for the response. Unfortunately, my room would not accommodate your suggestions, though I do like it.

I will never be able to have more than two presence channels in my HT space in any configuration (whether i be rear heights or a second pair of ceiling speakers if I do manage to get a first pair of ceiling speakers installed). Would you say that it's better just to have 5.1.0 than to have 5.1.2 with front heights angled down?
 

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Thank you so much for the response. Unfortunately, my room would not accommodate your suggestions, though I do like it.

I will never be able to have more than two presence channels in my HT space in any configuration (whether i be rear heights or a second pair of ceiling speakers if I do manage to get a first pair of ceiling speakers installed). Would you say that it's better just to have 5.1.0 than to have 5.1.2 with front heights angled down?
Of course no! 5.1.2 is much more better than 5.1! Just if you want to make the final decision, think about the ceiling mount, because that's a bit better than the front height placement. The step in sound is big from 5.1 to 5.1.2, while the placement is just a slight step forward to the more precise sound. Don't be afraid you won't be disappointed if you go with the front heights!
 
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