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I've had the A1080 for about 9 months and I've had to change the batteries in the remote 3 times. Usually remote batteries last a long time. Is it maybe because it is backlit? Anyone else's remote having that issue?
You wouldn't happen to be parking the remote on top of yr subwoofer during movies? Vibration can trigger the backlight & draw down the batteries.
 

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Quick question on the 3080 and watching Netflix with Atmos on Xbox or Appletv. Should the 3080 be set to straight or surround decode?
I keep mine on Surround Decode: Auto. That way it applies the appropriate decoder AND upmixer (like DSU for DSur, DD, DD+, DTHD so all 11 channels are operating). DSU is not applied in Atmos since Atmos natively supports all 11 channels and doesn't need to upmix.

Straight would also work for Atmos, but DSU won't be applied to DSur, DD, DD+, and DTHD, so you'll only get the native channels from the source with no upmixing (so no rears or heights with DSur & DD, and no heights with DD+ & DTHD).

The same goes for the DTS formats, but auto will use the Neo:6 upmixer and straight will be without an upmixer. So, DTS:X will give you natively 11 channels, and DTS and DTSHD on straight will give you 5.1 and 7.1 only.

You can also force a particular upmixer with the surround decode (so for example you can use DSU on DTS or Neo:6 in DD).

Does that help and answer your question?

-J.C.
 

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Man. Yamaha kinda sticks it to ya. Gotta buy the flagship receiver to get there best ypao. I would never need the options of the 3080 over the 2080. Really curious if there’s much difference between the top 2 ypao versions
 

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I've had the A1080 for about 9 months and I've had to change the batteries in the remote 3 times. Usually remote batteries last a long time. Is it maybe because it is backlit? Anyone else's remote having that issue?
My one year old 2080 remote's factory batteries are still working.
I've had the A1080 for about 9 months and I've had to change the batteries in the remote 3 times. Usually remote batteries last a long time. Is it maybe because it is backlit? Anyone else's remote having that issue?
You wouldn't happen to be parking the remote on top of yr subwoofer during movies? Vibration can trigger the backlight & draw down the batteries.
Not doing anything out of the ordinary. Changing volume or inputs is about all I'm doing.
I'll call Yamaha on Monday.

On a side note, what is the best Video Setting? Direct or Processing?
 

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I keep mine on Surround Decode: Auto. That way it applies the appropriate decoder AND upmixer (like DSU for DSur, DD, DD+, DTHD so all 11 channels are operating). DSU is not applied in Atmos since Atmos natively supports all 11 channels and doesn't need to upmix.

Straight would also work for Atmos, but DSU won't be applied to DSur, DD, DD+, and DTHD, so you'll only get the native channels from the source with no upmixing (so no rears or heights with DSur & DD, and no heights with DD+ & DTHD).

The same goes for the DTS formats, but auto will use the Neo:6 upmixer and straight will be without an upmixer. So, DTS:X will give you natively 11 channels, and DTS and DTSHD on straight will give you 5.1 and 7.1 only.

You can also force a particular upmixer with the surround decode (so for example you can use DSU on DTS or Neo:6 in DD).

Does that help and answer your question?


-J.C.
Yeah I think so. Since the Xbox and AppleTV send the Atmos signal differently than Blu-ray I was confused. On my older 3040 I could only get my ceiling speakers active with Netflix Atmos if I used Dolby surround. I have it set on auto now and while playing a Netflix Atmos movie the receiver was in straight mode. To be honest I couldn’t tell if my ceiling speakers were working or not. Thanks for your help.
 

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I currently have an old Emotiva receiver that will be getting upgraded for an Atmos enabled receiver. One feature my Emotiva has is called "last digital" which allows me to watch TV and listen to music from a different input. I often like to watch sporting events (Directv) and listen to music (from either my CD player or stream music from my iMac's iTunes library). Has anyone tried this with their Marantz? I'm thinking it could be possible utilizing the 2nd HDMI out (the non-ARC one). Thanks.

I realize Yamaha's version of room correction is YPAO, what's the word on the different versions? I see the 3080 has "Ultra Premium" the 2080 has "Premium" and the 1080 apparently has the base version of YPAO. I'm guessing there has been discussion of this vs Dirac and Audyssey. I'll do some searching the threads.
I think that the only difference with the 3080 YPAO is that it operates with 64 bits vs probably 32. No idea how much better using 64 bits is. I have always presumed that it is mostly a marketing talking point.
 

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Not doing anything out of the ordinary. Changing volume or inputs is about all I'm doing.
I'll call Yamaha on Monday.

On a side note, what is the best Video Setting? Direct or Processing?
I have an OLED TV and I believe it's better, so I use Direct. It depends on the TV, so if you have time you can check on some wallpapers. I recommend to check on bigger "O" "R" letters, so you can see the differences on the curves (arches).
 
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HDR10+ on Yamaha A3080 pass thru?

Hi folks,

I am ready to upgrade my TV from old 70" to new 80 plus inch LED TV. now Samsung is my first choice given it has HDR 10+, but Yamaha A3080 has HDR10. I have no plans to spend or upgrade my receiver to HDR10+ if it even exists in Yamaha product line. Now the question is:
1. Do signals of HDR10+ content from providers pass thru this revceiver onto HDR10+ TV?
2. If it doesnt pass thru, what happens to the HDR10+ content once it goes thru this receiver?
3. Is it worth chasing HDR10+ tv if my receiver is going to downgrade the signal?

I was debating on getting Samsung Q80R or Q90R in 83" but LG Nano Cell 86" price is very tempting. (LG TV https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-86SM9070PUA).

thoughts?
 

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Hi folks,

I am ready to upgrade my TV from old 70" to new 80 plus inch LED TV. now Samsung is my first choice given it has HDR 10+, but Yamaha A3080 has HDR10. I have no plans to spend or upgrade my receiver to HDR10+ if it even exists in Yamaha product line. Now the question is:
1. Do signals of HDR10+ content from providers pass thru this revceiver onto HDR10+ TV?
2. If it doesnt pass thru, what happens to the HDR10+ content once it goes thru this receiver?
3. Is it worth chasing HDR10+ tv if my receiver is going to downgrade the signal?

I was debating on getting Samsung Q80R or Q90R in 83" but LG Nano Cell 86" price is very tempting. (LG TV https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-86SM9070PUA).

thoughts?
I just use two cables from my Cambridge Audio player for HDR 10+ and ignore the receiver for the video portion. Video to TV and sound to AVR.
 

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I just upgraded from a 1040 to a 1080. One of the issues I'm having, that I also had on the 1040, is when connected to my Sony A9G OLED and running native apps (Netflix specifically), I get audio dropouts from ARC. This can happen once or twice during a 30 minute episodes, to sometimes happening so many times to the point where it's distracting. The only issue I've found that solves this is turning the Dolby Digital Plus feature to just Dolby Digital on the A9G. However, this seems kind of silly that I have to be restricted to regular DD using ARC.

Has anyone else with a Sony experienced this with their Yamaha? I remember other people saying to just turn of Dolby Digital Plus, but was curious if there's another work-around?
 

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I just upgraded from a 1040 to a 1080. One of the issues I'm having, that I also had on the 1040, is when connected to my Sony A9G OLED and running native apps (Netflix specifically), I get audio dropouts from ARC. This can happen once or twice during a 30 minute episodes, to sometimes happening so many times to the point where it's distracting. The only issue I've found that solves this is turning the Dolby Digital Plus feature to just Dolby Digital on the A9G. However, this seems kind of silly that I have to be restricted to regular DD using ARC.

Has anyone else with a Sony experienced this with their Yamaha? I remember other people saying to just turn of Dolby Digital Plus, but was curious if there's another work-around?

Perhaps try a better HDMI cable.


Normally ARC maxes out at 1.5 Mb/sec because it only has to deal with 2 ch PCM/Dolby Digital/DTS.


But Dolby Digital Plus via ARC sits inside a 6 Mb/sec container, so the tolerances may be stretched.
 

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Perhaps try a better HDMI cable.


Normally ARC maxes out at 1.5 Mb/sec because it only has to deal with 2 ch PCM/Dolby Digital/DTS.


But Dolby Digital Plus via ARC sits inside a 6 Mb/sec container, so the tolerances may be stretched.

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream

That is what I currently have. So what would be “better” or at least worth trying?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream

That is what I currently have. So what would be “better” or at least worth trying?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just try a different cable, maybe yours is faulty
 

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Just try a different cable, maybe yours is faulty

I tried another one (same brand). Same issue.

Hopefully, someone else can chime in. There are plenty of A9G owners, but not many who have it paired with the Yamaha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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So I searched and the most significant thing I saw was that the 3080 had the AI surround where as the 3070 doesn’t

Is there any major significant difference between the 3080 and 3070 component wise? Especially when it comes to the type of DAC used in each? I believe the 3080 had the ESS Sabre pro but not sure what the 3070 is rocking
 

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So I searched and the most significant thing I saw was that the 3080 had the AI surround where as the 3070 doesn’t

Is there any major significant difference between the 3080 and 3070 component wise? Especially when it comes to the type of DAC used in each? I believe the 3080 had the ESS Sabre pro but not sure what the 3070 is rocking
I own both xx70 and xx80 series Yamahas. Besides the Surround:AI DSP setting (which I most often use with movies/videos as I find it improves the dialog) is that the 80 series have a new UI which is easier and faster to use. Not sure my ears are sufficiently golden to hear any difference in the DACs. :)
 

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I tried another one (same brand). Same issue.

Hopefully, someone else can chime in. There are plenty of A9G owners, but not many who have it paired with the Yamaha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I have a Sony A8F and a yamaha 683 receiver and same cable as you have. I was told ARC can be difficult to get working properly so I never use it. Stream from a Roku connected to yamaha and have never had an issue. If I choose to use the Sony apps for any reason I have my audio coming from an optical out to yamaha.
 

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I'm trying to decide between the 1080 or 3080. Can anyone comment on the higher tier YAPO on the 3080 vs lower tiers? I wonder if it can finally compete, or pull ahead of, XT32 on the D&Ms..
 
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