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I have an RX-A860 that is having trouble connecting to my WI-fi network. It has had sporadic problems in the past with streaming Sirius via the MusicCast app, but I just chalked that up to a buggy app. Now, however, the problems have gotten worse. Yesterday after I was unable to stream Sirius through the app, I did a factory reset. Initially, the receiver used a really odd IP address via the default DHCP configuration. The IP address was not even in the range of my network. I manually assigned a static IP address within my network, and after several resets I was able to connect to the receiver via the MusicCast app and the Yamaha AV control app. I could also verify via my Unifi configuration that the IP of the receiver matched the data within Unifi.

This morning I am again unable to connect to the receiver via the MusicCast app or the Yamaha AV control app. However, I can still see the receiver in my Unifi control panel. The receiver IP within Unifi has not changed, and it shows a good connection. I also cannot reach the receiver directly via a web browser.

I am pretty sure I am doing everything correctly, since I also have an RX-A3060 with the same setup, and everything has always worked fine. That unit streams fine from the MusicCast app, is visible within the Yamaha AV control app, and can be accessed via a web browser.

Do these receivers have knows issues with Wi-fi? Is it possibly a network issue? Of course, the unit went out of warranty about a month ago!
If you have reset both the AVR and rebooted the modem/router to no avail, then time to call Yamaha for warranty repair. As the unit is only 1 month out of warranty, Yamaha may still honor it. If not, many credit cards will provide an extended warranty of 1-2 years as a free benefit of the card, so that may be an option as well if Yamaha doesn't come through.
 

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I have an RX-A860 that is having trouble connecting to my WI-fi network. It has had sporadic problems in the past with streaming Sirius via the MusicCast app, but I just chalked that up to a buggy app. Now, however, the problems have gotten worse. Yesterday after I was unable to stream Sirius through the app, I did a factory reset. Initially, the receiver used a really odd IP address via the default DHCP configuration. The IP address was not even in the range of my network. I manually assigned a static IP address within my network, and after several resets I was able to connect to the receiver via the MusicCast app and the Yamaha AV control app. I could also verify via my Unifi configuration that the IP of the receiver matched the data within Unifi.

This morning I am again unable to connect to the receiver via the MusicCast app or the Yamaha AV control app. However, I can still see the receiver in my Unifi control panel. The receiver IP within Unifi has not changed, and it shows a good connection. I also cannot reach the receiver directly via a web browser.

I am pretty sure I am doing everything correctly, since I also have an RX-A3060 with the same setup, and everything has always worked fine. That unit streams fine from the MusicCast app, is visible within the Yamaha AV control app, and can be accessed via a web browser.

Do these receivers have knows issues with Wi-fi? Is it possibly a network issue? Of course, the unit went out of warranty about a month ago!
Definitely use a static IP, I found both the app and performance worked a bit better when the AVR was on the same IP.

Was the "really odd IP address" something like 169.254...? That's simply a default private IP address when the client can't connect to a network. :)
 

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Sound Cuts Out - Yamaha RX-A660 & Sony XBR75

My surround sound system in my tv room has had an annoying problem off and on since I have owned it. My system features:
- Sony XBR75940D tv
- Yamaha RX-A660 surround processor

The problem is: occasionally and out of nowhere my sound will cut out for a fraction of a second. The system will operate flawlessly for weeks with everything working perfectly, then I will change channels and the sound will cut out sporadically. I have my system set up with HDMI cables from TV to my Yamaha using the ARC inputs, which allows the Yamaha to turn on and off automatically with the TV.

When I run the sound from my XBR thru my surround sound system, the sound chops out erratically after I change stations. It's very annoying.

I have tried many different fixes including switching to Optical Audio for sound output. The only way I can get rid of the erratic sound cut-out issue, is to run sound directly from my cable box to my stereo amp directly (bypassing my tv) using Optical Audio from Cable Box directly to my Surround Sound system. If I do this, I lose my ability to watch Netflix. Sony was out one time and replaced the TV's motherboard, but this did not fix the problem.

Some other notes:
- I have switched HDMI cables, and the problem persists.
- If I use the TV speakers only, I never have a problem.
- The problem always happens after I change channels, and then it can happen randomly after that on occasion too.

Has anyone else encountered this problem? Does anyone have any ideas for a fix??

I have lived with the problem til now and I am so frustrated I am considering changing out the hardware - but I don't know if it is the TV or the Yamaha surround?????

My inclination and guess is - it might be the HDMI board on the Yamaha. Has anyone else experienced this issue???

Thanks!
 

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Question regarding DSP

Hi Guys, I just recently picked up a second hand A-760 for a steal of a deal. It upgraded my old Yamaha Rx-v765 from 2010. I now have Atmos (but still no 4k tv). I installed some speakers in m ceiling to upgrade from 5.2 to 5.2.2. Wow, height speakers are totally worth it.

I have a question regarding DSPs. On my old Yamaha I'd leave the DSP set to Dolby Pro Logic II and I'd never have to change anything on the receiver. It would upscale anything that was 1.0 through 3.1 to 5.1, but if it detected DD or DTS it would switch to Straight mode and process it without any processing. I loved this feature because it was super simple for the family to use. In fact, they only would use the Shield TV remote and the TV and Receiver were CEC controlled.

Now I ALMOST have this working with the a760. Currently I have the DSP set for Dolby Surround and it does pretty much all I described above. The only asterisk is DTS:X. In order to get DTS:X I must change the DSP to DTS Neural X. A bit frustrating to have to go find the remote to do this. If I leave it on DTS Neural X full time, any Atmos track I play isn't detected until I change it back to Dolby Surround. (It will still receive the TrueHD track an the Neural X will upmix the height channels instead of playing true Atmos).

I know I can keep it in STRAIGHT mode and it will detect all signals properly, but then I don't get any sound upmixing (boo).

Anyone have a suggestion or encountered the same thing? My goal is to keep the Yamaha remote away, and let the Yamaha detect Atmos and DTS X on its own, while still upmixing 5.1 audio or less.
 

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Question regarding Audio Drop Outs

I just got a great deal on an a760. See my post above...

Today I took it through its first full length movie with Atmos. We had family movie night and cranked up Frozen II. I had the volume up pretty high, about -18db to really give it that full immersion feeling, and wow this movie has great low end during action scenes, and a really active ATmos mix that has your head on a swivel looking for where the sounds are coming from (in a good impressive way). However, once the soundtrack got really active, I'd keep getting numerous audio dropouts during musical scores or action scenes, mostly lasting a second or less. Finally about halfway into the movie I lowered down the volume to about -22db and it seemed to calm down quite a bit.

I am driving all 7 channels, and my two mains are full size with no crossover set. (Acoustic Research 310HO, vintage model with a 10" woofer built into the side of the cabinet).

Do you think I just reached the power limit of the internal amp/power supply and It can't sustain playing at higher volume for that long? I've played plenty of Atmos trailers etc but none of those are much longer than 2 minutes and I haven't had any dropouts.

I never had a problem on my older Yamaha receiver - v765, but I only ran that one in 5.1 mode.

No complaints on the receiver, I got it for a wonderful bargain, I'm just trying to understand if I hit a power limit or not.
 

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I just got a great deal on an a760. See my post above...

Today I took it through its first full length movie with Atmos. We had family movie night and cranked up Frozen II. I had the volume up pretty high, about -18db to really give it that full immersion feeling, and wow this movie has great low end during action scenes, and a really active ATmos mix that has your head on a swivel looking for where the sounds are coming from (in a good impressive way). However, once the soundtrack got really active, I'd keep getting numerous audio dropouts during musical scores or action scenes, mostly lasting a second or less. Finally about halfway into the movie I lowered down the volume to about -22db and it seemed to calm down quite a bit.

I am driving all 7 channels, and my two mains are full size with no crossover set. (Acoustic Research 310HO, vintage model with a 10" woofer built into the side of the cabinet).

Do you think I just reached the power limit of the internal amp/power supply and It can't sustain playing at higher volume for that long? I've played plenty of Atmos trailers etc but none of those are much longer than 2 minutes and I haven't had any dropouts.

I never had a problem on my older Yamaha receiver - v765, but I only ran that one in 5.1 mode.

No complaints on the receiver, I got it for a wonderful bargain, I'm just trying to understand if I hit a power limit or not.
There is a difference between "dropouts" and distortion. Are you saying that the sound would completely cease for a second or so and then resume, or would the volume drastically lower and then return to it's previous volume level? Or did you hear some sort of crackling or weird sound? If you were overdriving your speakers and the impedance load was too much the receiver would go into protection mode and shut down, red light flashing.

First, I'd check all your wiring to see if you have any bare wires touching. Second, I'd play another movie at the same level to see if you can duplicate the problem. Third, if you enjoy -18 levels I would seriously consider getting a subwoofer to relieve both your receiver and speakers, and also really improve your listening experience.
 

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There is a difference between "dropouts" and distortion. Are you saying that the sound would completely cease for a second or so and then resume, or would the volume drastically lower and then return to it's previous volume level? Or did you hear some sort of crackling or weird sound? If you were overdriving your speakers and the impedance load was too much the receiver would go into protection mode and shut down, red light flashing.

First, I'd check all your wiring to see if you have any bare wires touching. Second, I'd play another movie at the same level to see if you can duplicate the problem. Third, if you enjoy -18 levels I would seriously consider getting a subwoofer to relieve both your receiver and speakers, and also really improve your listening experience.
It could be distortion. I would describe it more like the sound of a CD skipping, like a scratch on the disc, or a stutter. The decoder stayed locked in.

I do have a couple of powered subs. I'm running 5.2.2. It's just that my towers have a couple subs built in also, so I'm running them full-range. The low end is tremendous when I run them full in conjunction with the powered subs. Every time I've crossed them over, you feel like the low end is missing something.

I have yet to run another movie at higher volume. The set-up is in the living room and I'd need no one home, or have everyone settle in for a movie. That volume will disturb others in the house if they're not actively watching. But will report back once that happens.
 

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Anyone know if this receiver adds input lag when the Xbox One is connected to it and the receiver to the TV? If there's input lag, probably best to connect it directly to the TV and sacrifice Dolby Atmos.

Thanks
 

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Has anyone successfully passed Dolby Atmos via ARC on any of these receivers (the Dolby Digital Plus variety)?
I assume you're asking about passing Dolby Atmos sound back from a TV's smart app (presumably Dolby Atmos licensed and enabled) back to the AVR?

Dolby Atmos requires eARC capability in both the TV and AVR, not plain ARC.

Right... you need both a new TV and a new AVR. Or, a streamer like Apple TV 4K which is capable of passing Dolby Atmos in its version of the licensed apps (e.g. Netflix and Disney+) which only support DA if licensed properly. The Roku streamer family of hardware does NOT support Dolby Atmos from its apps, nor does it support Dolby Vision from its apps. That's why I mention Apple TV 4K as one you should investigate, not Roku.

I have the RX-A860 and feed streaming from my Apple TV 4K into an ordinary HDMI input on the AVR, providing BOTH Dolby Vision picture and Dolby Vision sound. No need to worry about ARC or eARC back from the TV to the Yamaha. Just be sure to use a "premium certified" HDMI cable both between streamer and AVR, and between AVR and TV, in order to pass Dolby Vision picture from a streaming app to the TV. And of course you need to set up "best possible" picture and sound on the streamer to facilitate both DV and DA out to the AVR via HDMI.
 

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Actually, I have an Apple TV, Fire Tv and Roku. I use the Apple TV as you described. In theory, ARC should be able to support Dolby Digital Plus. eArc is required for lossless Dolby Atmos, but ARC should be able to pass lossy Atmos as used by Amazon Prime, for example, which is just Dolby Digital Plus. I am buying a new TV and just wondering if either the internal Netflix or Prime apps would pass Atmos DD + with these receivers. These "60" series receivers are not getting updated to eArc as some of the newer Yamahas are. Thanks,however, for your reply.
 

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Actually, I have an Apple TV, Fire Tv and Roku. I use the Apple TV as you described. In theory, ARC should be able to support Dolby Digital Plus. eArc is required for lossless Dolby Atmos, but ARC should be able to pass lossy Atmos as used by Amazon Prime, for example, which is just Dolby Digital Plus. I am buying a new TV and just wondering if either the internal Netflix or Prime apps would pass Atmos DD + with these receivers. These "60" series receivers are not getting updated to eArc as some of the newer Yamahas are. Thanks,however, for your reply.
Well... yes and no.

From this CEDIA article:

Single Mode ARC uses a single wire in the HDMI link, with performance limited to around 3Mbps. This enables support for 2.0 LPCM and "lossy" compressed surround formats including Dolby Digital and DTS 5.1, but nothing more. Cable length is a huge factor with Single mode, with reliability typically getting flaky beyond about 7-8m in a passive HDMI cable.

Common Mode ARC is superior, but less common (excusing the pun) in terms of deployment. It's still based on the same S/PDIF spec, but can theoretically support up to around 12Mbps. This is enough to carry 24-bit 192kHz 2-channel audio, or — to the point of this blog — a Dolby format called E-AC-3, which we know better as Dolby Digital Plus. This can also carry Metadata-enhanced Audio Transmission (MAT), being audio objects; aka Atmos.

So existing HDMI ARC can potentially support Dolby Atmos by maxing out the Common mode capability with an MAT stream. But there's a huge catch. Two, actually;


  1. Channel count & resolution — while E-AC-3 can support up to 15.1 channels of audio, it's well beyond the HDMI ARC spec. Even getting 7.1 channels to pass is a stretch, so even if the stream contains object metadata, it will lack the resolution and height speakers.
  2. System support — getting Atmos to work through HDMI ARC requires Common mode support in both the TV and AVR, and a high integrity link in-between. Even then, performance will be marginal.
HDMI 2.1 will change things considerably. It introduces enhanced ARC, or eARC for short, which can support up to twelve times the bandwidth of ARC, supporting up to 32 channels of 24-bit 192kHz audio! That is, eARC will support all of the same audio formats upstream as what we can already get in a downstream HDMI link.

In summary, a basic, lower resolution form of Dolby Atmos may work through existing HDMI ARC, but it is highly system and link dependent. This is why we tend to generalise that ARC doesn't support Atmos, as it's out of spec and can't be relied upon. If you are designing this capability into systems, sticking with proven product combinations and short connectivity can give your systems an edge until eARC comes along and opens up our options.




 

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Thank you, DSperber. That was the information I have been looking for for quite some time. I really appreciate your response to my inquiry. I guess the short answer is that it probably will not work. It is not worth it to me to upgrade just for that, but it means that built in apps to any new TV will not be worth worrying about until I do, since Atmos is a priority for me.

Thank you again.
 

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Having trouble getting the volume level to show on the tv when using all the external inputs connected to the AVR. This is my dad’s system so I’m not familiar with yamaha AVRs. What setting needs to be changed for this function to work?


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