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You can get to Tidal/Deezer by cycling through "NET" on your remote. It's the same access as Pandora/Spotify.
Thanks, I found Tidal and Deezer by cycling through Net as recommended.

My impression is that I must set up an account.

I just want to try out the service. What do I need to do next?
 

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Thanks, I found Tidal and Deezer by cycling through Net as recommended.

My impression is that I must set up an account.

I just want to try out the service. What do I need to do next?
Go to the Tidal and Deezer websites to setup an account, they have free trials that you can register for as well.
 

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Not sure what to recommend. You might want to try a reset on either the XB1S and/or the AVR. I believe I have the same config as you (AVR, XB1S, LG OLED). I have my XB1S connected to HDMI 1 on the AVR, and the HDMI ARC out from the AVR to HDMI 2 (ARC) on the OLED panel.
Yup - I have the same set up going. Guess I'll try for the reset on the AVR.

I did forget I was using the HDMI that came with the Xbox, not one of my new ones I ordered. I would hope that the Xbox cable could support everything. Suppose I could swap it out and see what happens.

Edit: Had to turn on the HDMI "Deep Color" setting on the TV. Now I'm all green.
 

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Just wondering what everyone is doing for their atmos setups. The 7810 manual conflicts with the recommended speaker configuration from dolby. See here:

https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/5-1-2-setups.html

"If you're using add-on modules, place them on top of the left and right front speakers, or within three feet of those speakers. Be sure the drivers are facing toward the ceiling. "

In the yamaha manual it shows the speakers mounted near the ceiling facing the listener. I'm guessing there is not too much difference between the two. The ceiling faced speakers would be reflecting off the ceiling giving a presence about halfway between the front and the listener, whereas the ceiling mounted would be from further forward.

Again, just wondering was others are doing and how it sounds. Thanks!
It doesn't seem like anyone had done this actual comparison, so I just did. Placing the front height speakers on the wall near the ceiling facing the listener (like the yamaha manual says) is better and more immersive than placing them on top of the front speakers facing the ceiling (like dolby says), at least for my case. So for anyone pondering whether or not to hang their satellite front height speakers, I'd say do it if you can.

Now I just need to figure out what to do with the speaker wire, which is currently just hanging down...
 

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I got my ARC working fine except for one thing. For my blu Ray player I have one hdmi going into the tv and another hdmi cable carrying the sound from the player to the avr. The Samsung blu Ray player has hdmi output just for sound. That way I can feed Dolby Atmos sound directly into the Yamaha avr. The problem is that because I have ARC control enabled, the avr keeps changing to the arc channel (av2) instead of staying on the hdmi input for the connection to the blu Ray player.

I don’t think that my Samsung tv will pass a Dolby Atmos signal through it. Any suggestions on how to keep the avr on the correct input and ignore the arc signal coming from the tv?
 

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I got my ARC working fine except for one thing. For my blu Ray player I have one hdmi going into the tv and another hdmi cable carrying the sound from the player to the avr. The Samsung blu Ray player has hdmi output just for sound. That way I can feed Dolby Atmos sound directly into the Yamaha avr. The problem is that because I have ARC control enabled, the avr keeps changing to the arc channel (av2) instead of staying on the hdmi input for the connection to the blu Ray player.

I don’t think that my Samsung tv will pass a Dolby Atmos signal through it. Any suggestions on how to keep the avr on the correct input and ignore the arc signal coming from the tv?
Why the direct connnection from the Samsung BD to the TV? The only reason to do that that I'm aware of is if your AVR doesn't passthrough HDR. But the Yamaha TSR5810 does pass HDR. Unless I'm missing something, the best config is Samsung > AVR > TV. You'll get HDR video plus Atmos audio and you'll just need to select the applicable AVR input that the Samsung is connected to. Eliminate the HDMI connection from the Samsung to TV and you should be in good shape.
 

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Thanks so much for the info. I didn't think the 5810 would pass the HDR signal. This is going to make my life so much easier. I also have an apple 4k unit going into the TV. I'm going to redo my cables so it all goes into the Yamaha and let the Yamaha AVR pass the video to the Samsung TV. That will be real easy.
 

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Thanks so much for the info. I didn't think the 5810 would pass the HDR signal. This is going to make my life so much easier. I also have an apple 4k unit going into the TV. I'm going to redo my cables so it all goes into the Yamaha and let the Yamaha AVR pass the video to the Samsung TV. That will be real easy.
One caveat:
1) The 5810 doesn't pass through Dolby Vision, and as far as I know there are no plans to add Dolby Vision support. Therefore if you are playing Dolby Vision content from your Apple TV, I believe that the AVR will limit it to HDR10. The 7810 has plans to add Dolby Vision support but it's not there yet.
https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/tsr-5810/specs.html#product-tabs

You could try running the Apple TV to the TV, but you would probably lose ATMOS from Apple TV. Or at best, get a lossy Atmos via ARC back to the AVR which might be worth it if you watch a lot of DV content.

EDIT: I just realized that your Samsung TV doesn't support Dolby Vision anyway, therefore the device -> AVR -> TV config will not add any new limitations after all. Your Apple TV will now be able to provide lossless ATMOS by connecting to the AVR as well.
 

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PlanetAVS, thanks again. Yes the Samsung doesn't support DV only HDR10. I'm going to go through the AVR with everything. As a side note the HDR material off the Apple TV 4K has looked great.
 

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Yes you can update to 1.31 however, I have not found instructions for tuning in deezer or tidal

Oct 4, 2017) Firmware Update for 2015-2017 Yamaha Aventage Receivers & CX-A5100
I don't own any of these, but some 2015/2016/2017 Aventage receivers and (2015) CX-A5100 pre-pro owners say a Firmware Update is available via the receiver's network update. Version 1.31 for the 2016 models, v1.07 for 2017 models and v2.10 for 2015 AVRs & A5100. Although it was hoped to enable Dolby Vision (passthrough), RX-A3060 and A5100 owners said it doesn't. Apparently the update adds Tidal & Deezer streaming support. As of this post time, the update hasn't shown up yet on the USA Yamaha Firmware Update download pages for the 2015, 2016, 2017 AVR models, or CX-5100 yet. (I'll add links to the updates download pages here when spotted.) http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/audio/
Displaying Atmos seems to be a problem for 1.31.

I played Kick-ass last night which has an atmos sound track. I selected atmos audio in the initial menu for the movie. Before the upgrade to 1.31 the Yamaha TSR-7810 would post the type of sound track but now it just posts the name of of the player. I cycled through the surround formats and Dolby 7.1.4 was displayed but not atmos which would display before the firmware upgrade.

I am using an Oppo UDP-203 with one hdmi cable going to the Oled e6p and a second hdmi cable going to the Yamaha.

I do not know if it is simply a display problem or a decoder issue. The Oppo displayed Dolby Vision and I did not use the Yamaha for that.
 

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It doesn't seem like anyone had done this actual comparison, so I just did. Placing the front height speakers on the wall near the ceiling facing the listener (like the yamaha manual says) is better and more immersive than placing them on top of the front speakers facing the ceiling (like dolby says), at least for my case. So for anyone pondering whether or not to hang their satellite front height speakers, I'd say do it if you can.
So to be clear, you took your Dolby Atmos 'wedge' speakers, normally recommended by Dolby to be placed on top of your front speakers, and you mounted them on the wall, shooting down toward the listener position?

Now I just need to figure out what to do with the speaker wire, which is currently just hanging down...
That is always the most annoying issue. If it wasn't for having to deal with the cables, I'd have four ceiling mounted speakers for Atmos (which I understand to be the best configuration for Atmos immersive sound).

I'm currently struggling with trying to get the 'best' Atmos sound out of my system. I am having a difficult time justifying the amount of money that 'official' Dolby Atmos speakers cost, when I look at what is actually in the enclosure. Anything with decent reviews costs at least $400, and for that you get a 5" (or smaller) woofer and a coaxial tweeter, a wedge shaped enclosure, and that's it. It's kind of outrageous. While I understand that it's mostly effects audio sent to Atmos speakers (so wide frequency response with good bass is actually a negative - bass being non-directional, while Atmos audio should be very directional), the pricing appears to me to be predatory.
 

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So to be clear, you took your Dolby Atmos 'wedge' speakers, normally recommended by Dolby to be placed on top of your front speakers, and you mounted them on the wall, shooting down toward the listener position?

That is always the most annoying issue. If it wasn't for having to deal with the cables, I'd have four ceiling mounted speakers for Atmos (which I understand to be the best configuration for Atmos immersive sound).

I'm currently struggling with trying to get the 'best' Atmos sound out of my system. I am having a difficult time justifying the amount of money that 'official' Dolby Atmos speakers cost, when I look at what is actually in the enclosure. Anything with decent reviews costs at least $400, and for that you get a 5" (or smaller) woofer and a coaxial tweeter, a wedge shaped enclosure, and that's it. It's kind of outrageous. While I understand that it's mostly effects audio sent to Atmos speakers (so wide frequency response with good bass is actually a negative - bass being non-directional, while Atmos audio should be very directional), the pricing appears to me to be predatory.
Good point, I should have been more clear on the speakers I have. I have "poor man's" atmos speakers :). They are not wedge speakers, just a couple small Energy bookshelves. If I didn't already have these, there is no way I'd spend the amount they are asking for "Atmos" speakers.

So I guess my comparison would not be valid for official atmos speakers, although it would be interesting for someone to do that. Mounting on the wall made my sound more "accurate" it seemed.
 

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Having a problem with connecting the Apple TV 4k to my Yamaha AVR. All the other sources are passing through the AVR just fine. It doesn't seem that the Apple TV is passing a signal to the Yamaha. When I plug directly into TV the Apple TV feed is fine. When I plug into (using HDMI 3 input) on the AVR the AVR is not registering any signal coming in. No audio or video.

Any reason why this is happening? Do I have something turned off?
I am given to understand (you should Google it) that the new Apple TV tells the destination that Dolby Vision is on. If that is indeed the case, the Yamaha will currently not pass that signal. I don't know if that can be turned off in the Apple TV. Again, this is speculation, could be way off the mark.
 

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What I found out is that I changed the AVR 4K to Mode 2 to allow a 4:2:0 signal to pass through. Whenever I try to change the apple TV to 4:4:4 it won't pass that signal. Even when I change the AVR back to Mode 1. Don't know why just reporting what settings I am using.
 

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Since you are fessing up I thought I should admit to not having an atmos speaker system at all. I have two floor standing tall mains, two surrounds set high on the wall, two rear speakers set high on the wall and a center channel speaker set above the oled panel for a total of seven speakers. I use the acoustic couplers of the mains for subwoofers. I decided against the cost and complexity of an official atmos system but with a good atmos soundtrack I can get a satisfying distribution of sound. This was originally designed as a 7.1 system. Since I am lazy, cheap and half deaf and few movies have atmos and the atmos model is so screwed up I am complacent about redesign.
 

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Displaying Atmos seems to be a problem for 1.31.

I played Kick-ass last night which has an atmos sound track. I selected atmos audio in the initial menu for the movie. Before the upgrade to 1.31 the Yamaha TSR-7810 would post the type of sound track but now it just posts the name of of the player. I cycled through the surround formats and Dolby 7.1.4 was displayed but not atmos which would display before the firmware upgrade.

I am using an Oppo UDP-203 with one hdmi cable going to the Oled e6p and a second hdmi cable going to the Yamaha.

I do not know if it is simply a display problem or a decoder issue. The Oppo displayed Dolby Vision and I did not use the Yamaha for that.
Hit "info" on the remote, it will cycle between the input name/device, decoder mode, and surround format.
 

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What I found out is that I changed the AVR 4K to Mode 2 to allow a 4:2:0 signal to pass through. Whenever I try to change the apple TV to 4:4:4 it won't pass that signal. Even when I change the AVR back to Mode 1. Don't know why just reporting what settings I am using.
Set the AVR to 4K Mode 1. This will allow 4:4:4, be sure you are using a High Speed HDMI cable (1.4).
 

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When I set it to AVR Mode 1 it doesn't seem that the AVR will pass the signal. I'll try again. I am using high speed cables. Will the 4:4:4 offer much better picture?
 

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I am given to understand (you should Google it) that the new Apple TV tells the destination that Dolby Vision is on. If that is indeed the case, the Yamaha will currently not pass that signal. I don't know if that can be turned off in the Apple TV. Again, this is speculation, could be way off the mark.
Interesting thought. I would think that instead of not passing a DV signal, the AVR would limit it to an HDR10 signal. Otherwise a user would not be able to play Dolby Vision content from any other source either (such as DV bluray from an Oppo 4K player) through the AVR. But it's possible that the AVR will not pass any DV content through whatsoever.

EDIT: In checking the Apple TV forum, it sounds like the Apple TV upscales content to 4K HDR. Which would suggest the issue that you mentioned. I'm still unclear if the Yamaha AVR will pass this as HDR10 or if it won't pass anything at all.

When I set it to AVR Mode 1 it doesn't seem that the AVR will pass the signal. I'll try again. I am using high speed cables. Will the 4:4:4 offer much better picture?
I would suggest checking the Apple TV settings to see if you can disable DV and/or disable the upscaler, or at least set the resolution to match the AVR and TV's capability. The Apple TV owners manual suggests that this might be possible, but I don't have the Apple TV 4K to try it. If it works, you'll just have to remember to re-enable DV if you ever get an AVR and/or TV that supports DV.
http://help.apple.com/appletv/#/atvba773c3c9
 

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So what I have working is the Yamaha on Mode 2. The apple tv 4k is at 4:2:0 under the chroma settings. I have the Apple TV also set to 4k HDR 60 hz. It's all working pretty well and I think that the picture looks great. I played some 4k stuff on Netflix and it was beautiful and rich. I'm going to stay with these settings. The Samsung TV I have doesn't do DV so I'm set with HDR10.
 
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