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Discussion Starter #1
The third time is the charm, right? With that in mind, this first thread post marks the start of my third dedicated theater build. The first two builds can be found in my signature below. The first and second theaters were both constructed in the same space and in a previous home. The third theater build is in a new space and a new home.

Theater One:


Theater Two (remodel):


The main goals of this build are:
• Increase sound isolation from my previous builds. Previous builds had ok sound isolation but I want better.
• Improved theater quality sound In my previous rooms I was always trying to balance sound quality and performance between two channel stereo and multi-channel home theater sound. When it comes to room design and speaker design, the two sound formats have less in common than one would think.
• Increase visual performance. Each room and remodel has increased screen size and this build will be no different. My very first build started with a 96” screen. This build will feature something closer to 130”-140” screen
• Future-proof the room as much as possible. Running extra wires is great, but I want the room to be able to be updated with simple tasks. I don’t want to have to tear into walls or pull down ceilings if I need to put speakers into new locations in the future. I have a few ideas how I will build a sound isolating shell of a room, then build framed walls covered in fabric to “create” the design of the room.
• Improve heating and cooling. In my last room heating in the winter was supplied by a small space heater and cooling in the summer was non-existent. The cooling wasn't a big deal because I rarely used the room in the summer and if I did, it was in a nice cool basement.
• DIY as much as possible. I love DIY. I live for it. So I will do as much of the work myself as I can.

I know with most theaters builds the room needs a name. My previous theater had a name, why break the tradition? So many ideas passed through my mind. Since this may be the last theater build I do for a loooong time (famous last words?) and it will mark the end of my home theater journey, perhaps calling it The Encore Theater. Maybe something more interesting…. The Espressivo Theater. Espressivo is a musical term used to suggest the material is played expressively. The Etude Theater? Etude is again a musical term meaning a piece is written solely to improve technique and often performed for artist interest. Somewhat fits the idea of this build, but no. Maybe something fun and light hearted? How about Hi Fi Fo No Hum Theater? Witty, but seems childish, even for me. Which is saying something. So for now this build will be known as The Other Theater since that is how my wife refers to this build.

I’m not in a big hurry to get this room complete. While I miss having a dedicated room, I will be doing all the work myself and completing it during nights and weekends. My goal is to have it done by Thanksgiving of 2018. I am known for working on a project relentlessly until it is complete. So while the goal fall of 2018, it could be nearly complete by spring of 2018. Who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The Room

This build will be completed in a completely light controlled corner of our basement. I would not say the house was built around this floorplan, but when designing the home I made sure I had a corner of the basement where I could put a theater and not have to worry about walls, windows and minimal HVAC.

The room will be roughly 27.5 ft deep and just over 14 ft wide. My goal is to have two rows of three theater seats and a third row as a dry bar with chairs. The second row of seats and table will be on a riser to help with sight lines to the screen. Here is a floorplan of the future space.


The room will be built on all sides (except the floor) with clips, double drywall and green glue. A few trouble areas will be a manufactured beam in the back third of the room and some existing HVAC duct work. I have a plan in plan to isolate the beam and the HVAC duct work shouldn't be that big of a deal since the room will have it's own heating/cooling zone and all duct work in the ceiling will be behind the DD and GG and surround by Owens Corning Thermafiber or Roxuol Rock Wool.

The screen wall will be mostly screen. The rear wall I have plans for a unique diffsor. I'm hoping to use the rear riser as a bass trap and mechanical room on the left of the floor plan will be my equipment room as well.

Speakers and Layout
The room will be wired for 11.3.6. The plan is for all speakers to be DIY. The front soundstage will consist of three Titan LX. Side and rear surrounds will be Volt 8 and overhead speakers will be Volt 6. I haven't fully decided what to use for subs yet and I have a few options. That may be a decision I tackle further down the process.

Audio/Video Equipment
Processor: Emotiva RMC-1 (once released)
Amps:
Emotiva XPA-5* (front three channel and wides)
Emotiva XPA Gen 3 10-channel (side surrounds, rear surrounds and overhead speakers)
Projector: JVC DLA-X990RBK
Movie Disc Player: Oppo 203*
HD Streamer: Mede8er 600X3D*
CD Player: Marantz CD6006*

* denotes equipment already owned


My first steps this week will be to construct the east wall (interior wall and shown on the left of the floor plan). After that, it will be HVAC recommendations and start pulling electrical wire for the room. I'll add some pictures of the room before I begin building and hopefully a lot more during the build.


***UPDATE***
The room is complete. Below you will find a list of current equipment that did change from my initial plans as well as some picture of the completed room.

Audio/Video Equipment
Processor: Emotiva RMC-1 (JBL SDP-55 on order)
Amps:
Emotiva XPA-5 (front three channel and first row side surrounds)
Emotiva XPA- 10-4-3s (second row side surrounds, rear surrounds and six overhead speakers)
Projector: JVC DLA-X790RBK
Movie Disc Player: Oppo 203*
HD Streamer: Zidoo Z9S*
CD Player: Marantz CD6006*
Front Speakers: DIYSG 1099
Base Surround Speakers: DIYSG Volt 8
Overhead Surround Speakers: DIYSG Volt 6
Subwoofer: SVS PC-4000





 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Here are a few pictures of the start of the room. Please excuse the mess. It's halfway between a construction zone and a temporary storage room after we moved in.

Here is a view from what will be a basement living room area. The theater entrance will be near the right side of this photo.


A shot towards the screen wall. Like many other build threads, I've used painters tape to visualize a few different screen sizes and aspect ratios.


A look towards the back of the room. You can see the manufactured beam that I will deal with. My plan is to have the projector mounted just in front of that beam, All four over head speakers will be mounted in front of that beam.


Another picture looking towards the back of the room. This time an angle looking toward the future equipment room. I started to piece together my AV rack last night to get a feel for what location for the equipment feels nature when walking through the room.

I have three runs of HVAC pipe in the overhead floor joists of my theater. None of these runs will be fed or output from the same air space as my theater and the theater will have it's own cooling/heating. I'm trying to decide for sound isolation if I need replace the pipe runs with flex duct to help reduce sound transmission to rooms upstairs. I think the only sound that would enter the pipe and make their way into the rooms upstairs would be sound transmitting through (from theater side to HVAC pipe) drywall, green glue, OSB, 25-gauge furring channel, clips and the dead space between the floor joists filled with Owens Corning Thermafiber or Roxuol Rock Wool. I've also considered keeping the pipe but wrapping them with Dynamat or a similar product to help insulate them a little more. I'm just not sure how much I need to worry about sound making it into the HVAC pipe before it gets a clear path to the output vents in the rooms above.

Here is a picture of the pipes I am considering replacing with flex tubing. Thoughts?
 

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Congrats on getting started. I love the sound isolation plan and your space seems perfect. So sub'd for this. Let me know if you need a set of hands. No pressure but I'm taking the under on you finishing next fall.

What are your thoughts on sub(s) options?


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Discussion Starter #6
Congrats on getting started. I love the sound isolation plan and your space seems perfect. So sub'd for this. Let me know if you need a set of hands. No pressure but I'm taking the under on you finishing next fall.

What are your thoughts on sub(s) options?


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Taking the under is likely the smart bet since I told myself I wouldn't start building until late Nov of 2017 and here I am Sept 12th and already taking a day of vacation to build a wall or two and sound clips and Green Glue has been purchased.

My sub options right now are DIY Full Marty Subs or commercial offerings. I have the ability to get some SVS SB-16 Ultra subs at a great price. It boils down to if I want to DIY everything and then use a miniDSP to tune the subs so I'm not using one of the 16 Dirac channels on the RMC-1, or if I buy commercial subs with DSP's built in and feed them all with one channel from the RMC-1. But don't worry buddy, I won't be going as full throttle as you and your amazing sub setup! I'm guessing only two or three subs in my room.
 

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Congrats on getting started. I love the sound isolation plan and your space seems perfect. So sub'd for this. Let me know if you need a set of hands. No pressure but I'm taking the under on you finishing next fall.

What are your thoughts on sub(s) options?


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Heh

KJLewie posting in Deewan's thread - check
KJLewie making a jab at when Deewan will finish - check
KJLewie inquiring about subs (and of course he would) - check

Seriously though really looking forward to experiencing this when you're done. I loved your old space and I'm sure your attention to detail will be just as amazing on this build. Maybe then you guys will FINALLY do another Eastern IA crawl.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dynamite post Joel. Although I have to admit, I think it was @IA_Hi_Fi_Guy that commented to me before our house was even complete that based on my previous build times I would likely have my new room finished before he completed his upgrades.

Once the space is completed I will be more than happy to host a stop during another Eastern Iowa HT Crawl. This room will have more space for visitors during the crawl. That was one take away from my old room. I never thought I needed anything bigger or with more seating because 9 out of 10 movie it was just me or me and my wife watching. But during the last year we began having more and more scenarios when groups of 4-6 people wanted to watch a movie and my old room just couldn't do that comfortably. This room will be able to handle 6 people very comfortably and possibly 8 with ease.

But lets get back on track. @kjlewie, tell me the story again how four 15-inch subs just wasn't enough. :)
 

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I don't remember what story I told you but likely it was a thinly veiled, modestly clever justification for relentlessly seeking sublimity and gluttony...getting MOAR bass. I think I'm good for a while...


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I don't remember what story I told you but likely it was a thinly veiled, modestly clever justification for relentlessly seeking sublimity and gluttony...getting MOAR bass. I think I'm good for a while...


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Kimball to save your marriage and sanity, please never go to a KC crawl. Your setup was a HOLY SH** moment when it comes to bass, but those guys are NUTS. I believe it was Carp that apologized for only have a 60 or 80 amp circuit (can't recall exactly) for his subs. I think there were 8 - 18"s and 1 near field sub in that setup. And it wasn't the most insane setup we saw. To quote Hank Hill them boys just ain't right ;) .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
@HT Geek, I am moving this discussion here instead of clogging up the soundproofing thread. You asking the following questions reading my splayed wall design for my room and using OSB as a base layer and then drywall instead of two layers of drywall.

That was my thinking too, but it doesn't work as well in practice, unfortunately. If you still have concerns about sticking screws/nails wherever, I'd suggest using plywood instead of OSB. I've found OSB doesn't hold screws as well as plywood. The downside to that approach is cost as you should use sanded plywood sheets (otherwise you're going to get small air gaps that will be counterproductive to soundproofing).

Sounds like backer boxes won't work for your splayed walls. May work for your Atmos.

Why are you planning to splay the walls? What is the problem solved?
I'll have to checkout my options for plywood and OSB. Depending on the price difference I may opt for plywood. Another option based on my room layout would be to use OSB or plywood as the base layer for the front half of the room where I will have the splayed walls and double drywall for the rest of the room. Now that I really think about it, I would only need the OSB or plywood on the ceiling and not on the side walls and for the front 16' of the room. Your words of warning in the soundproof thread may just have saved me some time, cost and frustration. Thank you!

I am planning a splayed wall room design for two purposes. The first is I simply like the way it looks. So it's a cosmetic thing for me. I have some ideas of highlighting the sections with LED strips in each surface break. Something similar to this but also running down the wall:


The second reason for splayed walls is to reduce light reflected to the screen or from the screen back to the viewer. I'm going to use dark colors (likely black fabric) up front anyway, but splayed walls will help with this as well.

If I do need some backer boxes for overhead speakers or lights, I can still us them and their opening can be hidden behind the fabric frames.

I have some down and dirty Google Sketchup drawings I hope to post on this thread soon showing what I have in mind and that may help answer some questions.
 

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Kimball to save your marriage and sanity, please never go to a KC crawl. Your setup was a HOLY SH** moment when it comes to bass, but those guys are NUTS. I believe it was Carp that apologized for only have a 60 or 80 amp circuit (can't recall exactly) for his subs. I think there were 8 - 18"s and 1 near field sub in that setup. And it wasn't the most insane setup we saw. To quote Hank Hill them boys just ain't right ;) .


Yep Joel, wholeheartedly agree that the KC boys should have a warning label. Meeting Archaea, Carp and Mark Seaton at the DM crawl a few years ago was ground zero for me.


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Deewan, definitely looking forward to your interior wall plans and solutions. Many times, I've mentally built my v3 with acoustically transparent interior walls to allow for flexibility in speaker placement. Should be cool.


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Discussion Starter #14
Here are some Google Sketchup drawings that I created to help guide my theater build. Some items have been tweaked in my head but not made it to the drawings. So you'll have to stayed tuned in to this thread to see what I may or may not change. :)

Side profile of the theater. Splayed walls and ceiling up front with black fabric. I hope to line the splayed edges with LED lights. The screen wall will be built out roughly 20 inches from the structure wall and be completely acoustically transparent with a floating screen edge in LED. Similar to my previous build. I liked the look enough I thought I would bring it back. A recessed ceiling in back of the splayed ceiling panels with possibly a cloud type panel holding Atmos speakers and low profile LED 'can' lighting. In the rear of the room you can see the riser and a ceiling with possible star ceiling in the recessed area. The lowest floor level will be carpet, the riser will be a engineered hardwood of some sort.


Better view of the ceiling and the possible overhead speaker locations.


And one last look, just because. :)
 

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CooL design Deewan! That rear ceiling panel is begging for fiber optic stars ;). I have a spare illuminator and should have left over fiber if you are interested :).
 

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How about flipping the room 180 degrees to have the screen under the engineered beam? Although I'm not sure what that would do for your viewing angles.

I have a main supply trunkline that runs right through my room. It is covered well in Dynamat, as well as decoupled and surrounded by R13, OSB, GG, and drywall. I don't hear anything coming from the supplies on the main floor or second floor, which is good. However, a few nights ago I had family enjoying The Accountant while I was trying to sleep. The .50 caliber scene at the end was rather pronounced on my second floor bedroom, and the main door was closed. But oh well.

I was always trying to balance sound quality and performance between two channel stereo and multi-channel home theater sound.
After hearing firsthand the Titans, I think you'll be happy with your choice. :) Although I'm sure the DIY setup you had before sounds amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How about flipping the room 180 degrees to have the screen under the engineered beam? Although I'm not sure what that would do for your viewing angles.
Curious, why flip the room 180 degrees? Maybe I am not thinking of an advantage. Flipping the room 180 degrees introduces a lot of negatives in my mind.
  • I lose the ability to have my equipment rack in the rear of the room while not being in the main theater room.
  • The manufactured beam limits screen mounting height and sight lines with a riser row of seating.
  • No matter which wall the screen is on, sound isolation with the manufactured beam remains the same.
My basement has a full 9' ceiling, actually just a little deeper than 9'. Under the manufactured beam I have a full 8' of clearance (before the riser). If my riser is roughly 8" tall, the ceiling in the rear of the room will only be a few inches shorter than what I experienced for the entire ceiling height in my last theater. I'm ok with that. Plus I'd rather the rear of the room be shorter than the front.

After hearing firsthand the Titans, I think you'll be happy with your choice. :) Although I'm sure the DIY setup you had before sounds amazing.
From the listening impressions I'e heard from people I know, they have all had good things to say about the Titans. I think they will be a great theater speaker. I don't think I would be very happy with them if I were still going to use this room for two-channel music. But that's the advantage of having two systems. I'm lucky that way.
 

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As I look at your Sketchups more, I see what you mean. You have quite a few feet of depth behind that beam, as indicated by the size of your riser. I mentioned it only in regards to how you might hide the beam within your construction.

If the beam was only a few feet out from the wall it'd probably be easier to incorporate into a screenwall. But then of course the other 3 points you made would still be valid. With all that, it looks like you'll hide it just fine with your current design. With ceiling heights like you have, it won't ever be noticed I bet.

Of the many things I'm jealous of your basement as it stands right now, one of the biggest is the lack of intrusion of anything below your ceiling joists. Not having to worry about obstacles to build around is gonna be so nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ahhh, I see what you mean now @JCJetta. I would agree with you fully if that beam was closer to the front or rear wall. Whatever wall that beam was near would be a great wall for the screen. Just build some sort of soffit and hide the supply lines. I think from the beam to the rear wall I have ~10'.

When working with the architect to design our floor plan I made sure I wouldn't have much, if anything, in terms of load bearing walls, large HVAC lines or plumbing I'd have to deal with when building the theater. It just happened the floor plan and that area of the basement worked out perfect for a theater room. I made a few comments to the builder to make sure the HVAC was installed on a certain side of the beam and then tucked up between the floor joists as soon as possible. I am really lucky how everything worked out.
 
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