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Discussion Starter #66
Panels cut. One of the baffles got a little jacked when my 140 tooth blade began to warp. So I got like 5 cuts out of the POS. Word to the wise, it is $5.99 for a reason.

I switched back to the 24 tooth contactor blade and finished the job since I haven't had time to get proper Diablo blades from HD. I ripped the second set of sheets one stacked on top of the other, warrior style. Sure their was some tear out but these are going behind my screen so meh.

I still need to trim a couple of panels and cut the circles for the 21DS115-fo.
 

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Panels cut. One of the baffles got a little jacked when my 140 tooth blade began to warp. So I got like 5 cuts out of the POS. Word to the wise, it is $5.99 for a reason.

I switched back to the 24 tooth contactor blade and finished the job since I haven't had time to get proper Diablo blades from HD. I ripped the second set of sheets one stacked on top of the other, warrior style. Sure their was some tear out but these are going behind my screen so meh.

I still need to trim a couple of panels and cut the circles for the 21DS115-fo.


Looking good Pete! Keep pushing
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
The wood is red oak veneered ply. The outer layers are thin veneer. I'm worried to just use glue/pl premium so I'm going to use pocket screws in addition. The design sandwiches the panels between the back and front baffles so I'll have to pocket screw front baffles first then the back. That's my plan anyway. How far apart should I put my pocket screws??
 

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Pocket screws look good. No point in overdoing it. If your cuts are good, regular wood glue is a hell of a lot easier to work with. I'm tired of the PL mess and all the gloves and rags. Plus the forearm cramps from squeezing that damn gun. You can always seal up the inside edges if you're not sure it's air tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Thanks! Well it turns out I was the last guy to find out the PT Barnum movie was a musical. Kids liked it, I guess it was ok. I was distracted running through thinking about where I should use pocket screws and where I shouldn't and then the order of assembly so I can still get to the screws. Then I started thinking about the double baffle and if I should route it the driver cut outs separately or at the same time because I'm doing a top mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Pocket screws look good. No point in overdoing it. If your cuts are good, regular wood glue is a hell of a lot easier to work with. I'm tired of the PL mess and all the gloves and rags. Plus the forearm cramps from squeezing that damn gun. You can always seal up the inside edges if you're not sure it's air tight.
My cuts are pretty close except for one baffle panel that I'll figure out hit to deal with later. The ply I got does have some micro gaps along the cut edges so I was thinking to use the pl as it'll expand and fill those gaps. I have only used wood glue previously so it sounds like I'm in for a treat!
 

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PL is great for a worry free assembly. It will fill in rough cuts and help with the voids. But it's messy. Gloves are mandatory, and you have to wipe it off quickly to any tools it gets on or the garage floor. It also continues to squeeze out after you put the gun down. Works great once you manage its flaws.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Got the rest of the pocket screw holes drilled today. I'm thinking to make half the external port panel permanent (installed with pocket screws and glue) and the top half removable so I can try a 20hz tune vs. 15hz tune. I grabbed an extra box of kreg screws so I don't run out. I also dropped $30 bucks on a frued 3/8" router bit. I only own the frued flush trim bit. I haven't figured out the bracing yet, thinking just to use scraps and brace every 8" or so. I also haven't decided if the driver should sit centered on the baffle or at the bottom. Center on the baffle puts it 24% into the vertical of the room. Also haven't decided if to port should be up high or near the floor. Decisions decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I have the same circle jig. It works, but I am not a fan of it either.
The measuring tapes on mine just slide right out when you go to assemble it, not glued on or anything! Wish I spent my 40 bucks on the rockler jig.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Got my first hole cut. I went half depth on the first pass then all the way through on the second. The jig I got is a pos and has some give in addition to the measuring tape built into it being useless. I just measured it out with my own tape measure but each pass was slightly off from it's counterpart due to the give in the jig.

I fired up my trusty trim router and picked the ring closest to the exterior and used my flush trim bit to clean it up. I'm learning that woodworking is more about how well you can manage your mistakes!!

The hole seems offset but it's actually centered on the baffle. It is already centered top to bottom which puts the driver 25% into the vertical plane of the room. The subs will be placed at the 25% points across the front of the space too. Hoping that when I add two more to have a SBA that will help with room issues. It's a gamble because this is in my wide open basement.
 
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