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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after alot of heartache and grief trying to decide what mains to try and build for my first speaker build. Ive finally made up my mind. Theres just way too many options out there WHY
?? It makes it tough on a fella to make up his mind
. That being said my main goal is good SQ and high sensitivity second that i can power off just my receiver which is 110wpc.


I decided with my budget of $400-$500 i might be better of trying a line array since majority of the decent options IMO are $600+. I got a chance to hear some SLA's and was quite impressed
! But in a room of my size they will not be able to get loud enough before distortion takes over
. So i knew i would have to step it up a bit. I did a little research on line arrays and talked with someone whos very familiar with building them successfully. And concluded it would cost me far to much to use an array of decent tweeters.


So with an idea from Neo Dan i decided to make an array with a waveguide and compression driver for the HF duties instead of a standard tweeter array. Do i have any clue how this will turn out? Absolutely not! But i am commited at this point. It could be an epic failure but its a risk i am willing to take. Worse comes to worse im out a few hundred on the mid woofers and building supplies. I can reuse the waveguide and compression driver in an econowave build if it comes to that. Lets hope it doesnt because lets be honest the array is going to look bad a$$
LOL. Some of you guys may think im an idiot for trying it but i dont care we all have to start an learn somehow.


Im using 8 6.5" midwoofers per tower http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-250

This compression driver with 75* conical WG from the QSC HPR122 http://professional.celestion.com/pr...etail.asp?ID=3 / http://qsc.com/products/speakers/hpr/hpr122i.htm


Some pics of the goodies!




The mid array should get me a sensitivity of 95db at 8ohms. I am going to have to use an L-pad to better match the compression driver to the mids. The box will be roughly 3.2 cuft sealed so .4cuft per driver. And it will stand a whopping 9.75"x12"x64". Ill also be building about a 6" to 8" tall base to mount the box too for much needed stability and to get the proper tweeter height.


Heres a few photos of the progress thus far.


Heres my chicken scratch to get the driver holes and WG aligned. Lets hope the spacing is proper!




Ive got the WG and driver holes cut. I am a samurai with a jig saw
!



I tested a few of the drivers and WG to make sure they fit properly. Not too bad if i may say so
.




Then i went ahead and glued the front baffle and one of the sides together.




I am working with a limited amount of clamps and tools here so while those panels dry i will cut the rest. Although you see a table saw in the background i am not using it these MDF sheet's are much too large. So im building this with a circular saw and sawguides. THIS IS FUN STUFF LET THE INSANITY BEGIN!



Alright heres the bracing and both sides in place. Im using a few tiny brad nails to help hold and rotating the clamps as needed.





And here is the back panel with the holes for the speaker terminal and L-pad knob cut out. Fit pretty good!




Heres a few pics of the wiring! Took these last night the few connectors you may see are no longer there its all soldered now.







Heres the box stuffed before the rear panel is installed.




And here is the front of it with drivers and WG in place.




Here it is in place looks pretty awesome next to my huge entertainment center not too out of place lol. Remeber there will be a nice base for it to lift it higher and it will be painted black.




And here it is dwarfing my old towers and they are not that small at all standing at 42" high and 10" wide!




Alright well heres the base's i came up with. Lift the tweeter height right where i want it and adds a little spiffyness! haha.








Well in attempt to try and spruce up my UGLY base's, i cut off 1" in height it helped the look and is still within good tweeter height. And i put on a little bit of trim. I plan to round over the edges of the base and speakers. And put some 3/4" to 1" quarter round around the bottom of the speaker where it meets the base.






Alright got both bases completely done and one box completely done and bolted to the base. The other box is being stubborn and im going to have to sand it down completely and re paint it in due time. Bases are covered in heruliner bed liner, it matches my sub. And the baffle is metallic gun metal grey. The rest of the box and trim on the base is just valspar roll on black satin paint. I kinda like it but am still on the fence about it. So be easy on me lol! And excuse the horrible quality pics alot of dust got stirred up bring the boxes inside the garage right before i took the pics.



 

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So uh yeah, you going to make a write up for this? If you're building them, I want to too!!
 

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Reece,you're making sawdust again ..man I am jealous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I cant stop building its addicting haha! I know i need a router and circle jig badly! I have no clue why i havent bought one yet, i guess it will be my next tool purchase. Im still in my early building learning stages so i dont think id be comfortable recessing the drivers and WG just yet.


I was actually thinking of calling it the "HORNAY" lol.


Well i guess i left out something pretty critical. Using a little comb filtering forumla with the spacing of 6.5" i will be crossing over from the compression driver to the midwoofers at 2khz. Ill be using a generic x-over and l-pad for now. This is until i can get a new receiver with pre outs so i can run an active x-over. The generic x-over should get me by till then. The initial testing of a few woofers with compression driver sounded good!


Well got all the pieces for the first box cut. Both sides are on clamped down and drying. Tomorrow ill put the rest of it together and post pics then. Added a few pics of the drivers and supplies on the first post.


DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY PICS OF HOW YOU INSTALL AN L-PAD INTO THE BOX WITH THE NOB ON THE OUTSIDE? IVE GOT AN IDEA WAS JUST CURIOUS IF ANYONES DONE IT BEFORE?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbgl /forum/post/18275479


LOL reecew, this could have been the ..... wait for it.....Horn array build.

Thought of it first!
It sounds good at first, but you'll be combating the evil combing effect. A possible solution would be to build a curved array, which would have reduced sonic field overlap and thereby avoid the problem.


Reece, you da man. Your jig saw kung fu is strong.


Is it bad that when I saw the title the first thing I thought of was "REECOLLAA"?



I look forward to your (obviously wildly sucessful) results!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starkiller4299 /forum/post/18275658


Thought of it first!
It sounds good at first, but you'll be combating the evil combing effect. A possible solution would be to build a curved array, which would have reduced sonic field overlap and thereby avoid the problem.


Reece, you da man. Your jig saw kung fu is strong.


Is it bad that when I saw the title the first thing I thought of was "REECOLLAA"?



I look forward to your (obviously wildly sucessful) results!

I had to have some sort of a catchy name! Thanks you, i look forward to my success as well haha.
 

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For the L-pad you're gonna have to recess it from the inside so the lpad shaft can reach on the other side of the mdf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris /forum/post/18275796


For the L-pad you're gonna have to recess it from the inside so the lpad shaft can reach on the other side of the mdf.

I was thinking that so i went and grabed it and the volume knob i bought for it. I shouldnt have to recess it. Check out the pic the knob is deeper tyhan 3/4" so i wont have to. Probably shouldve check it out before asking
.


 

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Looks like you have to drill a 1 inch hole... I would apply 'no more nails' latex adhesive before I set the outer piece in..then when it dries (2 hours) install the lpad.This way no air would pass through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thats a good idea. Ill have to pick up some of that stuff. Hopefully i can get this done tomorrow. Anyone have an easy to read wiring diagram? These are 4 ohm woofers i need to wire them for a final impedence of 8 ohm. Ive got a slight idea but dont trust myself not on something this critical!
 

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That's easy--with 8 drivers, wire 2 sets of 4 in series, and then parallel the two sets. 4*4/2=8.


Yaaaay, my degree is helping
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
LOL alright i got it ill wire 2 banks exactly like this


But after that not sure howd id connect the two positive and negative wires to make one to go to the x-over?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew /forum/post/18276257


LOL alright i got it ill wire 2 banks exactly like this


But after that not sure howd id connect the two positive and negative wires to make one to go to the x-over?

4 + 4 = 8


Wire the two sets in series.


XO (+) ---- Set 1 (+) WWWW Set 1 (-)---Set 2 (+) WWWW Set 2(-)----XO(-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got it i think. Ok bank ones poisitve to positive on x-over then bank ones negative to bank twos positive and then bank twos negative to the negative on the x-over? and ill have 8 ohm load?
 

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ASCII Wiring Diagram FTW!


Yeah - that's what I was trying to show.


If the banks are wired as a 4 ohm, two banks in series = 8 ohms.


Series = double, parallel = half (for simple cases)


Test with a meter to be sure, the resistance of each set should be equal to the resistance of a single driver (about 3 to 3.5 ohms for a 4-ohm driver), the resistance of the full array should be double a single driver, or about 6 to 7 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Awesome man. I hope to be wiring this up tomorrow evening!
 
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