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For the last couple weeks the TV has been displaying a green screen periodically. Sound stays on most of the time - but the picture is a nice field of green.


TV menus all come up fine when the volume, menu, input or whatever button is pushed.


WHen using STB remote - eventually the guide will come up and display (and I can see a picture then) but when exiting the guide - back to green screen sometimes and sometimes the picture displays fine again.


Have not had this occur while watching DVDs - but we use that a lot less than regular TV.


Issue happens in both Standard Def and HD modes - on a bunch of different channels.


The picture when displayed, seems fine. In fact the green - the entire screen - edge to edge, top to bottom - is a very nice standard uniform green. I don't think this is a bulb issue - but I have no idea about LE or color wheel or if it could be the STB itself (Motorola QIP6416 DVR - Verizon FiOS).

Advice welcome and appreciated!!
 

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How are you connected? I would try a different cable first. If you shut the tv off and then restart it does the problem stay or go away?

What if you change inputs, is it still green or normal?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos
How are you connected? I would try a different cable first. If you shut the tv off and then restart it does the problem stay or go away?

What if you change inputs, is it still green or normal?
Yup - what s/he said - use a new cable or the one from your DVD player since you know that cable works and connect it first to the same input as the DVD player and see if it works; if it does connect it to where you have the TV input and then see if that works. If it doesn't then you know it's the port/input on the TV.
 

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I am having trouble getting OTA channels programmed on my 46HM95. They were programmed at one point and I moved the antenna and was able to get a few more channels so I decided to delete the channels and do a new scan. Now when I scan it will get to 61% and just quit scanning and go to a snowy screen, I think an analog station. When I try to look at the channel listing in Add/Delete channel the screen goes blank and eventually it goes back to the snowy screen.


Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a fix?
 

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About a year ago my DVD player began failing to work on our Toshiba DLP using the HDMI cables (I attempted with 3 different sets). I then replaced the HDMI cable with component cables using the Colorstream 1 option and all worked fine, until....today the DVD player failed to reveal any video (black screen) but the audio was fine. I hooked the DVD player to another TV using both HDMI and component cables and the device worked perfectly using both. Likewise, using another device I was able to get the Colorstream 1 to work normally. Any ideas?
 

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Thanks folks - I hadn't replied as the 'fix' I tried was to turn on the STB 1st then the TV....that seemed to work (I also pulled and reseated the HDMI cable)....but a few days later I turned on the TV 1st as had used to be done....and the issue hasn't reappeared again....I was waiting a few days to see if it came back, but I've not been able to reproduce the problem since the day after I posted (and then it had been happening regularly over many days)....the only thing that I know happened is my video provider (FiOS) had around that time frame upgraded its guide (Interactive Media Guide (IMG)) - maybe (?) there was an incompatibilty or a patch that got pushed and fixed the issue - ...

regardless the TV is working fine, for now.

Thanks again.


SCdacey- had that issue too, but my DVD player is older - no HDMI so just component - in fact just yesterday - - my low tech solution - unplugged the video cable and plugged it back in - all was fine. It seems to do it periodically - and I've got no idea why. Meanwhile, earlier suggestions are to turn on the input device ahead of the TV - and when turning on in that sequence - if not noticed the issue. If I turn the TV on before the DVD player that sometimes (not always) seems to happen.
 

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Please help me with this issue I'm having with my 46HM95. It has only done this twice now and the first time it went away after 30 minutes or so. This time, I turned off the TV and walked away. A few hours later it seemed fine, but then it started to do it again. Please see attached images to get an idea of how it looks when it does this.


A couple of facts:

1) It does this on all inputs. The issue shows itself even on the onscreen information of the TV. (meaning it isn't from an input).

2) There is a center horizontal line that seems to be stuck or a condensed version of the main image.


Here is a video of how it starts acting as it warms up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G1f6IoB3eg



Any advice is appreciated.


 

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First, my Toshiba collection: 56MX195 that I purchased in '05 or '06, a 56MX195 that I bought off of CL last year for parts "just in case", and finally, a 56HM195 that I got off of CL last week for more parts. My original works well for most part and is on about 4th bulb. I believe the ballast has gone bad because it takes about 5 restarts with audio only before it finally comes on and stays on with a picture. I intend to repair or replace the ballast at some point. The CL 56MX195 is fine on one half of the screen and all pink on the other side. The CL 56HM195 has a constant slight flickering and the flesh tones are blotchy as if the contrast is messed up.


My goal is to make a good set out of the two CL sets I have procured. I am not sure which one to make my "keeper" and which one to use as my "donor". It seems the problems are different enough that I should be able to salvage a good set out of the two. One seems to be light engine / bulb /ballast related and the other seems to be convergence or DMD or something.


From the symptoms described (I will post pics later), can anyone suggest a starting point and which set to build on? I am very comfortable working with the boards and components in the TV so anything is fair game.


Thanks in advance.
 

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Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom. It is like that in the menu too. I can find no way to adjust this. I have taken the TV apart before when I got it, as it had a loose connection and I also cleaned it up. I can not tell if it is the screen, the TV cabinet being bowed or what. I would like to know if I can adjust the light tunnel somehow or maybe prop something up to change the angle a little? I noticed that the light tunnel board that has the little LCD in it has some screws with springs on them, are those adjustable? There is also another screw with a spring on what looks to be some sort of metal door just beyond the colorwheel housing. Any ideas?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eel_dahc /forum/post/21078516


Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom. It is like that in the menu too. I can find no way to adjust this. I have taken the TV apart before when I got it, as it had a loose connection and I also cleaned it up. I can not tell if it is the screen, the TV cabinet being bowed or what. I would like to know if I can adjust the light tunnel somehow or maybe prop something up to change the angle a little? I noticed that the light tunnel board that has the little LCD in it has some screws with springs on them, are those adjustable? There is also another screw with a spring on what looks to be some sort of metal door just beyond the colorwheel housing. Any ideas?

The top of the cabinet is bowed, I guess from heat. When i lift the back of the light tunnel up, sans screws of course the picture does line up better and also when i push the top of the unit inwards. So I am guessing that the light tunnel itself is just fine, it's the cabinet that's warped. Ha, you don't find the cabinets for sale anywhere....
 

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After a good 6 or 7 years, my 52HM84 decided to no longer light. New bulb, new ballast, nothing. Not sure if it's the power supply or what but it clicks when it fires up, both fans come on, the color wheel spins up. Too bad it's not worth the cost to get it looked at. Anyone need spare parts?
Looks like I'll be shopping for a replacement this holiday season.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eel_dahc /forum/post/21078516


Hello all. My Toshiba DLP 52HM84 has a weird problem. The picture is thinner at the top and gets larger towards the bottom.

My 46HM84 has always been like this (a slight bowing out toward the bottom). It's only really apparent if you have vertical lines toward the outside of the screen (such as vertical letterbox bars). It's pretty subtle, and never really bothered me.
 

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Speaking of my 46HM84, it's now a spare since I decided to upgrade to a 3D set. All components are in perfect working order. If anyone within driving distance of Philadelphia is interested in the set, parts, or a 5 month old toshiba bulb, send me a PM.
 

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Please help! 65HM167


I just spent last 2 hours reading every post on here to diagnose why my new non-toshiba lamp doesn't fire first time, however, that's not my issue at moment.


I read that "fast" power on setting is preferred, so i changed from power saver to fast (for first time ever since owning this), and the picture immediately got washed with a red tint! ??? I changed it back to power saver, no change.


I turned on/off/on...no changed. I went to picture settings, and they were exactly how i had them. I reset anyways, and red tint is still there. Picture is still very clear.


How could this happen? Like i said, it happened the exact moment i changed the setting from power saver to fast.


UGH, i'm ready to take this TV out back and 10 gauge it!



When screen is supposed to be all black, there is definitely a red tint. Blue and white colors seem to be uneffected.
 

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Please help... i have 52HM84... noticed the bulb slightly dimming off and on, decided to order new bulb (this will be 3rd one since '06, others popped and blew) just in case. Put new bulb in and it did not light. There is a buzz coming from lamp area when the TV attempts to fire up but then green/red flashing power light. Put in old bulb and TV is fine again.


Called DiscountTVLamps.com (for RMA) thinking the bulb was bad and they indicated that it may be a 'ballast'... poked around web for info and found this forum.


Question: is it possible for the old lamp to work and the new one NOT to work and yet still be the ballast?


Appreciate any help here... love the TV but the cost of maintaining it is starting to make zero sense.


-marshall in Lancaster, PA
 

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Far from expert in the matter, but from what I've read, yes it sounds like a ballast issue. They wear out and eventually they aren't able to provide enough initial power to ignite a new lamp. A used lamp takes less juice to ignite so your old ballast may be able to light it, but not a brand new lamp.


edit: You may be able to get the parts you need nearby, check out a few posts above by gkrykewy.
 

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Hi guys hope theirs someone here who can help me.

I'm certain i have a Ballast issue, I've pulled it out and replaced the R33 transistor however that didn't fix my problem as the lamp still doesn't power up it just keeps power cycling.

Aside from the transistor at R33 is there any other component we have to replace? I don't see anything wrong visually with the Ballast. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2 or 3 of the diodes often have to be replaced too. Check D5, D6, and CR1. However, I cannot find the specs on what to use and the markings on the diodes don't trace back to anything I can find. Did you test the resistor and find it bad or did you just replace it? I have a bad ballast but the resistor is good, it's the diodes that are bad. In fact, the leads on the diodes are darkened and look like they got very hot at some point.


Regarding DiscountTVLamps.com bulbs, I bought one there a couple of years ago. After about a month, my TV started cycling...ballast right?...so I lived with it for a year this way every time I turned on the TV. My family got into the habit of turning the TV on 10 minutes before they wanted to watch something so it could cycle and finally come up. I picked up a used TV off of CL that had an original Tosh bulb and on a whim I put it in my TV. It fired right up and has been running great for a year now with no more cycling issues. I never did change the ballast. So, IMHO, the bulbs from dicounttvlamps are substandard and not up to spec. I won't purchase from there again.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanltod /forum/post/21929642


2 or 3 of the diodes often have to be replaced too. Check D5, D6, and CR1. However, I cannot find the specs on what to use and the markings on the diodes don't trace back to anything I can find. Did you test the resistor and find it bad or did you just replace it? I have a bad ballast but the resistor is good, it's the diodes that are bad. In fact, the leads on the diodes are darkened and look like they got very hot at some point.


Regarding DiscountTVLamps.com bulbs, I bought one there a couple of years ago. After about a month, my TV started cycling...ballast right?...so I lived with it for a year this way every time I turned on the TV. My family got into the habit of turning the TV on 10 minutes before they wanted to watch something so it could cycle and finally come up. I picked up a used TV off of CL that had an original Tosh bulb and on a whim I put it in my TV. It fired right up and has been running great for a year now with no more cycling issues. I never did change the ballast. So, IMHO, the bulbs from dicounttvlamps are substandard and not up to spec. I won't purchase from there again.

I just replaced the resistor wasnt aware that the Diode's were the ones that go bad. Im looking at the Diode's in the locations you mentioned and the endpoints do a little dark not sure if its suppose to be like that or if its as you said. Does anyone know what type of Diode's we need to purchase to replace the existing ones? They appear to have some markings but hard to say what they are. Anyone know of an electronic store in Toronto that would be able to help if i took the Ballast in??? You help is much appreciated.
 
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