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1. polarizers don´t need 3d luts, they are close enough. just have cms so you can get whitepoint corrected. , i tried omegas with lut boxes and im pretty shure the image can be get pretty good but i just did not have the lumens to do it. the omegas cut light a ton and if you try to correct colors with 3dluts its another big cut.
2. I don´t remember that good but i think i have tried the omegas also on silverscreen. i have mitsubishi hc5 and they don´t have that much lumens and i think the omegas is atlest 30 or 40% dimmer.
but they have zero crosstalk i mean white on black. but still the 3d is so much more 3d and imersive when the lighoutput is better so i have used the polarizers. plus the omega glasses are horrible to wear. if would use the omega filtter i would try to cut the front off from the glasses and 3d print some custom parts to wear them.
3.omega is cleaner if you use white screen. offcourse it is as all silverscreens have noise from the metal particles. the 5d versions like stewart ect have less noise but they also compromise some crosstalk on the same.
4. sxrd is panel technique like d-ila. D-ila is what jvc uses, sxrd is similar that sony for example uses or mitsubishi , when they were on busines. currently sony sxrd penels are only on sony.
If you are ok with fullhd i would just get two sony hw65´s for 2000 a piece. I have been think of that. but i would also like a native 4k allthough the 4k is kind of pointless as there is no possibility of getting 4k 3d, atleast for games, and thats the real DEAL. there is nothing like it. havent played in 2d for 10 years. It´s so booring, 4k or not. still if there was a native 4k projector that could deliver better fullhd image with scaling to 4k then maby that. Jvc N5 for example. it´s just ****ing expensive in pair. Nvidia 3d vision can output 1440p that would be utilized on a 4k projector but geobox can only take 3d in at max [email protected] .. 1440p could maby taken in at some lover refresh but i have not tried.
I personally can´t stand 1 chip designs so i favour 3 chip designs. besides LCD projectors are not even as good as SXRD with omega so if you get epson ect that kind of diminshes your omega choises i think.
5. yes. and the many times lighter glasses. like i said the omega glasses are heavy and awfull to wear.
6. Linear have better extingction so less crosstalk. but the negative side is you have to keep your head straight.
7. i have strong mdi samples. i did not like the grainy look of the hga. and it did not give any better crosstalk than my custom paint. havent tried severtson.
but what i have discovered, you gotta take most of the manyfacturers claims about the crosstalk and signal to noise ration talk with a grain of salt.. for example the elite screen cinegrey 5d is touted to have great extinction but ballsacks, the 3d that has better values was hands down much worse than my custom paint. The steward 5d is only thing i would take, but like i said, my paint costed about 200 euros for 135" custom screen so the stewart is 4800 more expensive and it only would give me little less noise and better 2d image. crosstalk i still have less.
also i have not tried the blackdiamond but that´s even more expensive here... ****ing ripoffs.
The strong mdi has the "circular" material , highwhite. I have a feeling it´s somewhat similar to stewart5d but it´s not sold to consumers....offcourse.
severtson i have no idea. Harkness spectrall 240 or 300 is also pretty ok for the price.
and i would get an sample of the silverscreen material awater3d sells. i have not tried that but i had a feeling it might be ok.

If you wanna try to paint yourself, get a sprayer and go to your local shop that sells carpaints, get some clear binder and some thinner, ask slowest possible. thin the binder and get atomized aluminium powder. mix.. paint few times. but you will need a sprayer and the smell is horrible.
Thanks for the advice. There is some speculation that Omega 3D filters pass much more light with DLP than with lcos. At least there was a comment theorizing that in the Ultimate 3D thread. We'll see...

I think for double stacking 3D, DLP is the best. The one weakness of DLP really is black levels, and raised black levels is a benefit in 3D for having less crosstalk. Besides that, the DLP motion makes a big difference in 3D apparently.

I probably wont be 3D gaming but I never thought of that, that you could do 4K 3D if you do it with gaming.

Have you ever tried VR? Like for gaming, is it it worth it to set up a 3D setup, or would you may as well do VR at that point? Of course, the same argument can be made for 3D movies.

And what about input lag? Are there any good projectors that dont have bad input lag that would ruin gaming?

Im not a big gamer anyway but definitely 3d gaming would be very cool.

Harkness has the Spectral 300, but also the Clarus 290. Do you know which material is better?

FYI I have no wall for a screen. Everything has to be pulldown, or a fixed screen that I will try to flip to the ceiling. Someone was helping me but they stopped responding so thats in limbo too.
 

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Thanks for the advice. There is some speculation that Omega 3D filters pass much more light with DLP than with lcos. At least there was a comment theorizing that in the Ultimate 3D thread. We'll see...

I think for double stacking 3D, DLP is the best. The one weakness of DLP really is black levels, and raised black levels is a benefit in 3D for having less crosstalk. Besides that, the DLP motion makes a big difference in 3D apparently.
- i doubt thats true. The weaknes of 1-chip dlp is rainbow effect and they are loud and they have bad blacka and they have bad glass. the only positive is that it´s sharp to begin with. still
the downsides are greater for me atlest. you can always use interpolation to enhance motion resolution.
- you can always pump the brightness if you wanna bring up the blacks. i would never get a ****ty projector just to get poor blacks. and the most annoying thing about 1.chip dlp is they are all noisy,
every projector thats above 23db is too noisy if you ask me. especially when you have two running.

I probably wont be 3D gaming but I never thought of that, that you could do 4K 3D if you do it with gaming.

Have you ever tried VR? Like for gaming, is it it worth it to set up a 3D setup, or would you may as well do VR at that point? Of course, the same argument can be made for 3D movies.
- i have reverb g2. there isnt really any desirable vr units. Xtal might be good but still wearing a hmd vs screen in comfort is like day and night.
there isn that many good vr games. most are just trash. And i would not compare vr to a dual projector setup. when you can use personal cinema devices that are like sun glasses for example, and the image quality is exelent, then we start to get there.

And what about input lag? Are there any good projectors that dont have bad input lag that would ruin gaming?
- depends. whats your need. what is bad input lag. to me under 50ms is just fine.

Im not a big gamer anyway but definitely 3d gaming would be very cool.
- so you don´t really need to care about inputlag.

Harkness has the Spectral 300, but also the Clarus 290. Do you know which material is better?
- i would choose spectral if you wanna do polarized. Clarus has less noise but worse crosstalk.


FYI I have no wall for a screen. Everything has to be pulldown, or a fixed screen that I will try to flip to the ceiling. Someone was helping me but they stopped responding so thats in limbo too.
- don´t do a pulldown unless you want wavy spaceships. just get a rigid screen. do a flip one if you need to. the carls silverscreen is also ok´ish for the price i think
 

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Are you saying even a motorized pulldown screen will give me wavy spaceships? I thought tensioned meant it would get tense and straight. Unless the guy helping me on avs with the flip screen can finish the design he halfway helped make for me, I wouldnt know how to do it. I dont think its complicated but you need to be familiar with what to get at hardware stores and how to attach the flip contraption to both the hinges on the ceiling and the screen frame, and I dont know how to do that.

Yeah I am worried about noise for the projectors, but didnt really factor that in because I was just looking for the best projector, and I thought you could easily get hush box or noise canceling material but now it looks like maybe that is quite complicated.

Hoping for the best.

What did you mean by bad glass on one chip DLP? Mine apparently have very good lenses, which they need in order to combat chromatic aberration of the LEDs, and apparently it does so better than most. So the glass isn't bad it's just the LEDs are a lot more demanding on lenses. The lens is 3 inches wide, very big, but apparently to have zero chromatic aberration on the edges of the image, it would require a lens twice as big and four times as expensive. But 3 chippers have convergence issues so nothing is perfect. Only the one chip DLP 4K BenQ 9060 has such a great lens that this is not an issue I guess. But besides that the ones I bought apparently have some of the cleanest pixel grids and so on that you can get on a consumer projector, with the only flaw being a bit of chromatic aberration on the edges of the image which is not visible from viewing distance.

As for rainbow effect, the one chippers I have now use LEDs, not color wheels, so I am hoping to avoid any RBE. I was told before I got them that they run at equivalent of 45x color wheel speed or something, which is ten times faster than color wheels so I had zero fears of RBE. But apparently that is not the case and it is actually 18x, so I am a bit more nervous about it. However I had the IN83 and didnt have any problems with rainbows, and this is at least 3x as fast as the IN83's color wheel, so hopefully that means I wont have an issue. All that worries me is that I never watched the IN83 in a light controlled room, or on a white screen (it was grey), so Im thinking what if now that Im watching in a dark room on a white screen, this will make the issue 5x more visible and cancel out the 3x faster LEDs?

But Im still unclear if dark room and white screen would make rainbows any more visible than otherwise. But a lot of people have the DLP-LED projector I have or the same line of DLP-LED projectors, and RBE seems to be no issue for 99% of them, so hoping for the best.
 

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tensioning propably helps. i still doubt any canvas that isnt tentioned from all sides and angles is as straigt and rigid as a fixed to a canvas one. But to be honest i don´t have that much experience on rolled canvases!
husbox is always a possibility but it´s propably quite tedious job. And offcourse it depends on the listener who finds what noise to be disturbing.
i just meant when we are talking about 1000-2000 1-chip dlp´s well i ques also lcd ect, they attend to have some blurry corners or similar problems.
and that i just said as many people join cheap projectors and 1-chip dlp into one idea. But it´s true cheap glass can be found on other tehcniques also.
And yes 3 chippers have convergerse error. though all sxrd units usually have panel alignment and really small space between pixels so the image is pretty sharp.
ofcourse you can return and swap untill you get a quality units.
"As for rainbow effect, the one chippers I have now use LEDs, not color wheels, so I am hoping to avoid any RBE "
this also is a personal thing. for me there isnt a fast enough switching device. even pixel shifting image is "flickery" for me. I can´t no longer see it but i feel it. and even the led versions have
rbe problems as most of the time they only use two colors and the 3rd is filtered, so there is a swtiching element. the speed of color wheel is irrelevant after 6x , and to begin with it´s 6x at some resolution at some refresh. it´s not 6 all the time atleast not at all projectors. anyways the speed is irrelewant it can´t physicly be that fast you would not see the rbe anymore if you are prone to see it.
but luckily you might not see it... to me that harsh fact just is that when you put two projectors side by side, the other is 1 chipper and the other is a 3 chipper the image of the 1 is just no comfortable and as soon as you switcht the 3 chipper on your eyes feel as they relax. and like said it needs to be non pixel shifting image. So to me it´s not all about percieved image but soothnes on the eyes.
Maby most people owning 1 chipper dont realize this. i don´t know. i have gone so many times to watch a 1 chipper im done.
I hope you are happy with yours for shure !

Lens shift is also one i need for my way of installing. my first projectors were non shifting and it´s a terious job to get spot on but it´s possible.
and if you use warp you already sacrifice part of the sharpness anyways i don´t know is lens shift that important.
I use the warp from geobox mostly becuase of i have curved screen and i project above for good crosstalk and more even hotspot.
the warp in geobox is pretty darn good, the image softens much less than when using keystoneing from projectors
 

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tensioning propably helps. i still doubt any canvas that isnt tentioned from all sides and angles is as straigt and rigid as a fixed to a canvas one. But to be honest i don´t have that much experience on rolled canvases!
husbox is always a possibility but it´s propably quite tedious job. And offcourse it depends on the listener who finds what noise to be disturbing.
i just meant when we are talking about 1000-2000 1-chip dlp´s well i ques also lcd ect, they attend to have some blurry corners or similar problems.
and that i just said as many people join cheap projectors and 1-chip dlp into one idea. But it´s true cheap glass can be found on other tehcniques also.
And yes 3 chippers have convergerse error. though all sxrd units usually have panel alignment and really small space between pixels so the image is pretty sharp.
ofcourse you can return and swap untill you get a quality units.
"As for rainbow effect, the one chippers I have now use LEDs, not color wheels, so I am hoping to avoid any RBE "
this also is a personal thing. for me there isnt a fast enough switching device. even pixel shifting image is "flickery" for me. I can´t no longer see it but i feel it. and even the led versions have
rbe problems as most of the time they only use two colors and the 3rd is filtered, so there is a swtiching element. the speed of color wheel is irrelevant after 6x , and to begin with it´s 6x at some resolution at some refresh. it´s not 6 all the time atleast not at all projectors. anyways the speed is irrelewant it can´t physicly be that fast you would not see the rbe anymore if you are prone to see it.
but luckily you might not see it... to me that harsh fact just is that when you put two projectors side by side, the other is 1 chipper and the other is a 3 chipper the image of the 1 is just no comfortable and as soon as you switcht the 3 chipper on your eyes feel as they relax. and like said it needs to be non pixel shifting image. So to me it´s not all about percieved image but soothnes on the eyes.
Maby most people owning 1 chipper dont realize this. i don´t know. i have gone so many times to watch a 1 chipper im done.
I hope you are happy with yours for shure !

Lens shift is also one i need for my way of installing. my first projectors were non shifting and it´s a terious job to get spot on but it´s possible.
and if you use warp you already sacrifice part of the sharpness anyways i don´t know is lens shift that important.
I use the warp from geobox mostly becuase of i have curved screen and i project above for good crosstalk and more even hotspot.
the warp in geobox is pretty darn good, the image softens much less than when using keystoneing from projectors
Thanks for the info. Can you clarify, are you comparing 3 chip lcos to, I dont know if it exists but, 1 chip LCD, or 1 chip lcos?

Basically when you say in your experience that 3 chip is easier on the eyes than 1 chip, what 3 chip projector models are you talking about specifically, and what 1 chip projector models are you talking about specifically?

Are you comparing apples to apples? 3 chip DLP to 1 chip DLP? Are you comparing 3 chip DLP of high quality to 1 chip DLP of high quality? Have you ever used a DLP-LED projector before, or are you talking about DLP with color wheel only? Which models?
 

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the LCD version has a color balancing coating on the opposite side from the filter and helps some with this issue most intense with LCD. LCD tends to be more of an issue due to the RGB dichroic filters that split the light to the 3 panels. gaps in the spectrum are due to the choice of dichroic filter and how they work. color wheels in dlp can do the same but most do not have the high level of extinction of cyan and yellow.
Can anyone please translate this? Would I want to use this "color balancing" filter coating for LED projectors, or not? If the "LCD version" has the same exact 3D filters and glasses, it just adds a color balancing coating as well, then is there any projector that shouldn't use the LCD version of the filters? Wouldn't DLP also do better with the same exact filters, but bonus "color balancing" too? Or is there a downside to it?
 

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and even the led versions have
rbe problems as most of the time they only use two colors and the 3rd is filtered, so there is a swtiching element. the speed of color wheel is irrelevant after 6x , and to begin with it´s 6x at some resolution at some refresh. it´s not 6 all the time atleast not at all projectors. anyways the speed is irrelewant it can´t physicly be that fast you would not see the rbe anymore if you are prone to see it.
What do you mean the speed is irrelevant after 6x? You don't think LEDs that work at 18x would at least have about 3x less RBE, even if it was still there? Faster is better than slower here, no?

Can you tell me if the Sim2 M-150 LEDs only use two colors, with a 3rd filtered, or if it uses all three? I know that it has red, green, and blue LEDs inside it.
 

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1-chip design is a design where the light passes 1 chip and the primary colors are generated by some switching device to get all colors on screen.
and 3-chip design has all the 3 primary colors generated on the screen at the same time without any specific switching device.
these are kind of the basics one should understand before choosing a projector.
1chip design is popular for mostly cheaper price and as it only has 1chip its more easy to archieve clear image but at the same time you introduce somekind of electorinic swtiching
and flicker to some people you would say.

if you look at what a 3-chip 1080p dlp projector cost you realize you barely can find any used for the same prices you can get new lcd or lcos 3 chippers.
dlp is great technology but to get it without any switching it´s a hefty price. then there is these new laser projectors that mostly have 2 lasers and the
3rd color is made by filter and in these devices there is also some rbe style flicker to be achieved for some people.
if you would have 3 distinct lasers then the end resolution would be flickerless exept you then again save and use switching with fullhd panels to acthieve 4k resolution like the new epsons for example. 6050 ect. for me i can´t see the projector switching but i feel it being not calm for my eyes.

what you wan´t is a 3 chip design with full native 4k panel with high contrast and wide gamut and manual iris. But as all in life we need to make comrpomises most of the time. these things cost money and most of the time you need think what you need.

my point about the speed of the color wheel is, yes more speed the better, but it´s pointless kind of after 6x, the switching is still there even as you go higher and i don´t know but
i think that if you have mechanical wheel spinning you can´t spin it more than x amount before it rotates too fast for every else component.
besids the faux 4k units that switch the fullhd pixels are swithcing thousands of times a second but still like i said you can feel it if you prone to any flicker.

but if you are not then exelent. My problem has always been also the fact that even if i would not be though i am, some of my close one could be so i think every switching unit
is stupid idea by design.

sim-2 "The technology especially lends itself to single-chip DLP projectors where the use of three LEDs (red, green and blue) negates the need for a colour wheel, thus almost eliminating rainbow artefacts. "
for my understanding the leds switch. anyways somehting is witching. for this is a nono. i don´t have the time to read any further....
the brightness is also wery low. still i think it´s enough for batcave environment with high gain silver screen as my mitsubishi hc5´s are also about 1000 and under lumens.
 

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one thing also affects seeing rainbows is the users style to watch movies. if you have attendency to stare straight at the center then you see less of rainbows.
most easily rainbows are detected by moving your eyes from side to side while watching. i have big tendency to do this.
STILL I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO TRY IT OUT ... as once you see them, they can´t be unseen and it´s with you till the end of your life.
but like i said. it´s not that you see them. but you fell them. or more when you are not using a 1 chip desing you CAN´T feel them.
but this you have to expereience on your own in your own enviroment preferably
 

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i don´t remember what was added to the lcd versions of the omega filtters. As i also belive the fact they are recommending more the dlp projector as most cheap dlp projectors just have ****ty color gamut. for example when i compared my mitsubishin hc5 to an optoma hd23 the optoma had far vorse color gamut. though the price difference is huge so it was expected. still i would not say just "get dlp" ... i think i use the dlp versions of the omega with my sxrd projector if i use them. I remember they i was having better results balancing the colors with those than with lcd filtters.
I just got them pretty cheap from someone so i wanted to try them out.
So from the back of my head i would just get the lcd omega versions only for pure lcd projectors.

and i don´t think getting the colors balanced with omegas is the biggerst problem. if your projector have low gamut that´s the problem more.
the green and the magenta are the colors that attend to warp as if the projector doesnt offer much of green and magenta it´s hard to split.
 

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1-chip design is a design where the light passes 1 chip and the primary colors are generated by some switching device to get all colors on screen.
and 3-chip design has all the 3 primary colors generated on the screen at the same time without any specific switching device.
these are kind of the basics one should understand before choosing a projector.
1chip design is popular for mostly cheaper price and as it only has 1chip its more easy to archieve clear image but at the same time you introduce somekind of electorinic swtiching
and flicker to some people you would say.

if you look at what a 3-chip 1080p dlp projector cost you realize you barely can find any used for the same prices you can get new lcd or lcos 3 chippers.
dlp is great technology but to get it without any switching it´s a hefty price. then there is these new laser projectors that mostly have 2 lasers and the
3rd color is made by filter and in these devices there is also some rbe style flicker to be achieved for some people.
if you would have 3 distinct lasers then the end resolution would be flickerless exept you then again save and use switching with fullhd panels to acthieve 4k resolution like the new epsons for example. 6050 ect. for me i can´t see the projector switching but i feel it being not calm for my eyes.

what you wan´t is a 3 chip design with full native 4k panel with high contrast and wide gamut and manual iris. But as all in life we need to make comrpomises most of the time. these things cost money and most of the time you need think what you need.

my point about the speed of the color wheel is, yes more speed the better, but it´s pointless kind of after 6x, the switching is still there even as you go higher and i don´t know but
i think that if you have mechanical wheel spinning you can´t spin it more than x amount before it rotates too fast for every else component.
besids the faux 4k units that switch the fullhd pixels are swithcing thousands of times a second but still like i said you can feel it if you prone to any flicker.

but if you are not then exelent. My problem has always been also the fact that even if i would not be though i am, some of my close one could be so i think every switching unit
is stupid idea by design.

sim-2 "The technology especially lends itself to single-chip DLP projectors where the use of three LEDs (red, green and blue) negates the need for a colour wheel, thus almost eliminating rainbow artefacts. "
for my understanding the leds switch. anyways somehting is witching. for this is a nono. i don´t have the time to read any further....
the brightness is also wery low. still i think it´s enough for batcave environment with high gain silver screen as my mitsubishi hc5´s are also about 1000 and under lumens.
What do you mean by "switch"? There is definitely something going on with my DLP - LED projector's focus where something switches between a red shadow around the image, and a green shadow, but no matter where I set the focus, it will not go to a perfect mix where you can't see the difference. But my understanding is the LED acts the same as a color wheel. It alternates flashing the green, red, and blue lights at a speed 3x or 4x faster than color wheels. But the LEDs definitely all come from different angles, and then are mixed together, it's not like just a color wheel sitting in front of a bulb. So I have no idea...

What DLP - LED projectors have you owned, or seen personally? What exact models?
 

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one thing also affects seeing rainbows is the users style to watch movies. if you have attendency to stare straight at the center then you see less of rainbows.
most easily rainbows are detected by moving your eyes from side to side while watching. i have big tendency to do this.
STILL I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO TRY IT OUT ... as once you see them, they can´t be unseen and it´s with you till the end of your life.
but like i said. it´s not that you see them. but you fell them. or more when you are not using a 1 chip desing you CAN´T feel them.
but this you have to expereience on your own in your own enviroment preferably
What do they feel like? How will I know I'm feeling them?
 

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Its jus more calm to watch. it really can´t be explained. you need compare it your self. Get a 1chip dlp and 3chip device into same space and try them out one after another.
just remember to block the light coming from the other projector and alternate.

I have seen benq2000 or the little brother and optoma hd32 and i went to see benq´s latest 4k flagships 5700 and it was as bad as all other 1chip dlp´s
to be frank there wasnt anything i particularry would have liked about it.

"What do you mean by "switch"? "
- i mean if there is led switching it´s a switch.

basics of 3 chip

here you can see an example of leds used with dlp chip.
and like with these projectors there is still rbe to be seen it must be from the dlp chip itself flicking the mirrors.
So without knowing i would say the dlp it self is a problem for some and not a 3 chip is a total cure for super sensitvie people.
As i said with lcd and lcos thechnologys there is no switching element like with dlp and colorwheel systems.



You can search more about the subject.
 

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Its jus more calm to watch. it really can´t be explained. you need compare it your self. Get a 1chip dlp and 3chip device into same space and try them out one after another.
just remember to block the light coming from the other projector and alternate.

I have seen benq2000 or the little brother and optoma hd32 and i went to see benq´s latest 4k flagships 5700 and it was as bad as all other 1chip dlp´s
to be frank there wasnt anything i particularry would have liked about it.

"What do you mean by "switch"? "
- i mean if there is led switching it´s a switch.

basics of 3 chip

here you can see an example of leds used with dlp chip.
and like with these projectors there is still rbe to be seen it must be from the dlp chip itself flicking the mirrors.
So without knowing i would say the dlp it self is a problem for some and not a 3 chip is a total cure for super sensitvie people.
As i said with lcd and lcos thechnologys there is no switching element like with dlp and colorwheel systems.



You can search more about the subject.
Does lcos also use mirrors or some sort of chip that could cause rbe?

So you saw the BenQ 5700 4K pixel shifter. Is that DLP - LED or DLP - color wheel?

And the BenQ 2000 and Optoma hd32, are those 1 chip with color wheel?

Have you ever seen a DLP with LED?

I'm not arguing with you because honestly, I tested out my M-150 the first time, and it felt exactly like you are describing. The image was smearing every time there was motion, and the whole thing felt really bad on my eyes and my mind. However it could be something with my test screen, and there is some issue with the motorized focus possibly from shipping damage that could be the cause of this not RBE or anything like that. There are a handful of people on avs with projectors from this DLP - LED line and every single one seems to say it's the smoothest motion they've ever seen, it's the most relaxing on their eyes they've ever seen, etc, even more than 3 chip DLP. I am the first one to possibly have a problem, but even that is not confirmed yet.

But definitely, my first impression was that there is some sort of problem, just like you are describing. So I am not doubting your words, in fact maybe I am unfortunately learning that it's true for me too. But it is definitely too early to say yet. I have to do more tests and comparisons once the second unit comes in the mail to see if it is just a problem with this unit, or a problem for me with DLP - LED in general.

What is confusing is I had a one chip DLP in the past, with a color wheel, the Infocus IN83, and I never saw motion smearing like this. So is there any reason why DLP - LED would actually be worse for motion than a color wheel, not better? For reference, the IN83's color wheel speed was 4x speed using a 7 segment color wheel. My DLP - LED projector works at the equivalent speed of a 18x speed color wheel (not sure how many segments).

But it's basically 3-4x faster than color wheel DLP projectors, actually 7-8x faster than some color wheel DLP projectors so how could the motion be worse, not better? This projector also has better processing than the IN83, it's a more expensive higher end projector in general, not just the LED part of it.

So my questions are 1. What DLP - LED projectors have you seen? 2. Do you think it's possible that DLP - LED motion could actually be worse than DLP with color wheel motion? If so, why? How?
 

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only dlp has flipping mirrors. LCD and Lcos have only passive elements.
5700 is a wheel machine
And the BenQ 2000 and Optoma hd32, are those 1 chip with color wheel? = yes
Have you ever seen a DLP with LED? i don´t remember.

if the image smeary propably its so old the image resolution isnt that great when the image is moving.
but you feel the differnece between 1 and 3 chipper even without moving picture. just staring a static image should
make you a believer or non believer

and there is two kind of people. some prefer the motion of a 24p and some like it with a hint of motion interpolation.
jvc gives out pretty good motion in native 24p but i still prerfer there is a minimum motion interpolation.
Still i have not seen but only one manufacturer who made exelent interpolation and thats my mitsubishi.
the hc5 and hc9000 (same) and atleast hc7800D have exelent tru motion interpolation. Also the same era dlp wheel machines have that interpolation.
they give an exelent 1080p image still to day but there is practicly none available atleast new. and there isnt any spares so i would not recommend
them to anyone exept maby new.

i have nothing on the smear.its the same age as my projectors.
maby the "the worlds first 3d active led video interior system" says it all... or there is just something wrong with the projector.
test out different modes. there is a game mode ususally it has the fastest response.
 

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There are two display modes on the M.150, one is called PureMovie and the other is called PureMotion. You should always use the PureMovie mode when watching 24p content as this option projects the images at 48Hz thus maintaining a film-like quality without any flicker. The PureMotion mode utilises motion adaptive processing which increases 50Hz to 100Hz and 24p and 60Hz to 120Hz. This mode is designed to give moving images a smooth video-like quality that might be useful for fast moving sporting content. Given how well DLP handles motion we found this mode to be largely redundant and always used PureMovie for 24p content.

have you tried the differnece between these ?

atleast according to this review the projector should produce exelent image
 

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if the image smeary propably its so old the image resolution isnt that great when the image is moving.
Are you saying the DLP chip degraded over time (not supposed to happen), or in what way would age of the projector affect image resolution? The projector is from 2013 so it's not a dinosaur.

but you feel the differnece between 1 and 3 chipper even without moving picture. just staring a static image should
make you a believer or non believer
This is very good to know.

i have nothing on the smear.its the same age as my projectors.
maby the "the worlds first 3d active led video interior system" says it all... or there is just something wrong with the projector.
test out different modes. there is a game mode ususally it has the fastest response.
What do you mean it says it all? It's their top of the line 2D DLP - LED projector, it just also has active 3D as a bonus feature. And it has interpolation. It is a very high end DLP - LED projector, so unless something is wrong with the unit, or I have a special sensitivity, it should perform great.
 

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no dlp doesnt degrade. i mean something slow in the electronics but still i think more there is a problem with the unit.

i mean by it says it all, that it the worlds first 3d active led video interoiour system, that its the first of it´s kind.
In every tech there is always compromises. im just saying maby they sacrificed something to gain something. allthough it was a 20k projector back in the day,
my hc5 also is exact copy of a mitsubishi hc9000d and that also was a 9000 euro projector back in it´s release and it´s good but there is 6000 margin on that.
 
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