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If you can solder then you will be able to use your 24V power supply (19-30V also seems to work fine) to activate your Crestron Amplifier without any popping issues or requirements like pressing the "little red bypass" button in the back. You will not be required to keep power going to the Amp @ all times any longer, you will still need to figure out your own way to use a 12V trigger.
Kagtha, thank-you for posting this solution. I followed your detailed instructions (see post #85 in this thread) and was able to modify three 16x60 amplifiers in about an hour and a half. They all work great!

BTW, I wont be judging your soldering skills as mine are worse than yours :frown:
 

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I purchase my 16x60s used and one of the speaker connector plugs on the rear had the post broken off. Does anyone know the part number for a replacement? I imagine this part is used by many manufacturers of various amplifiers.
 

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So, anyone know if one had the Crestron CNPWS-75 could be used in some way to turn the amp on and off? It has that four pin connector that goes to the amp and we know that the end ones are for 24volt power and ground, but what about the "Z and Y" pins?
 

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after googling my ass off for the last few hours, I find myself wondering if I can use a momentary contact insteon switch wired up to the override button to trigger the amp to turn on? This would have the benefit of NOT bypassing the card and any protection features it may have going into it. Yes, I do realize I would still need to have 24volts going to the connector...
 

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So, anyone know if one had the Crestron CNPWS-75 could be used in some way to turn the amp on and off? It has that four pin connector that goes to the amp and we know that the end ones are for 24volt power and ground, but what about the "Z and Y" pins?
The CNPWS-75 provides the necessary 24VDC to the amp via the "G" (ground) and 24 pins. However, with just the CNPWS-75, you still have to press the Override button to turn the amplifier on. Someone with Crestron installation/engineering experience may know what is needed on the Z and Y pins to actually turn on the amplifier. It is most likely necessary to have some other Crestron equipment.

However, see post 85 of this thread. By just soldering one wire to 10 pins, you can have the solution you want. You just need to supply 24VDC as well. I made this modification to three 16x60s yesterday and it works great.
 

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The CNPWS-75 provides the necessary 24VDC to the amp via the "G" (ground) and 24 pins. However, with just the CNPWS-75, you still have to press the Override button to turn the amplifier on. Someone with Crestron installation/engineering experience may know what is needed on the Z and Y pins to actually turn on the amplifier. It is most likely necessary to have some other Crestron equipment.

However, see post 85 of this thread. By just soldering one wire to 10 pins, you can have the solution you want. You just need to supply 24VDC as well. I made this modification to three 16x60s yesterday and it works great.
yes, i saw that, but as i understand it the card does provide some amp protection which is bypassed with that mod? Or perhaps I am not completely understanding..
My thinking was I would want to keep that protection and simply rewire the bypass button with a momentary contact switch..
 

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yes, i saw that, but as i understand it the card does provide some amp protection which is bypassed with that mod? Or perhaps I am not completely understanding..
My thinking was I would want to keep that protection and simply rewire the bypass button with a momentary contact switch..
I considered the same type of approach, but my laziness got the better of me. The two things to figure out was the actual benefit of using the button as a trigger (less standby power consumption compared to killing the 'mains' power with a smart strip and power up thump ect.) and sync issues with the switch and amp. Ideally, measuring total power consumption (24v supply and amp combined) with each method to see the benefit. That combined with figuring a way to actually connect to the board in place of the momentary switch made me stay with the easy button triggered power for the mains. I do get a light thump on power up, but you can really only hear it if the room is mostly silent, doesn't startle the wife, kid, or doggo as it stands.
 

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I considered the same type of approach, but my laziness got the better of me. The two things to figure out was the actual benefit of using the button as a trigger (less standby power consumption compared to killing the 'mains' power with a smart strip and power up thump ect.) and sync issues with the switch and amp. Ideally, measuring total power consumption (24v supply and amp combined) with each method to see the benefit. That combined with figuring a way to actually connect to the board in place of the momentary switch made me stay with the easy button triggered power for the mains. I do get a light thump on power up, but you can really only hear it if the room is mostly silent, doesn't startle the wife, kid, or doggo as it stands.
Well, as I appear to have a bit of free time on my hands, I may try it. The plan is to have the 24 volt plugged into a smart switch that powers on when i start an activity with my Harmony. Then I will add a command that will close the momentary contact (essentially pushing the override button) That way I can maintain whatever protection (if any) is in the card and I won't have any phantom power draw when the system is off.
 

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Did you see my method of simulating a push of the bypass button.

That maintains all protection built-in by Crestron and allows a 24v trigger signal to turn the amp on. So no power consumed when off and I just power on a simple 24v wallwart in sync with my Pre amp/processor. been working perfectly for over a year now and I still can use the original bypass button to toggle it on and off if I need to.
 

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Did you see my method of simulating a push of the bypass button.

That maintains all protection built-in by Crestron and allows a 24v trigger signal to turn the amp on. So no power consumed when off and I just power on a simple 24v wallwart in sync with my Pre amp/processor. been working perfectly for over a year now and I still can use the original bypass button to toggle it on and off if I need to.
yes, i saw that but it was out of my skill set to try and do that! :)
 

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just got my amp installed and tested all channels. working great and now if parts express would just ship my damn dayton i can bridge my front three channels! got a unit off ebay for $350 delivered. Super clean unit and hardly any dust inside it. But, DAMN, this thing is heavy..
 

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just got my amp installed and tested all channels. working great and now if parts express would just ship my damn dayton i can bridge my front three channels! got a unit off ebay for $350 delivered. Super clean unit and hardly any dust inside it. But, DAMN, this thing is heavy..
Congrats! I'm just waiting for speaker plugs to arrive as well. Yes, its very heavy. Just try to remember most of the weight is towards the front so it doesn't tip when lifting.
 

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Congrats! I'm just waiting for speaker plugs to arrive as well. Yes, its very heavy. Just try to remember most of the weight is towards the front so it doesn't tip when lifting.
yeah, half the weight has to be those two twin toroidal transformers!
 

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Quick question. I've got an extra DBX2496 lying around. Would that work in place of the matchbox units or the Dayton DSP? Thanks for the help! Found a couple of these locally.
 

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Quick question. I've got an extra DBX2496 lying around. Would that work in place of the matchbox units or the Dayton DSP? Thanks for the help! Found a couple of these locally.
possibly, but as there are only two inputs if you are planning on doing more than 2 channels you will need something else..
 
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