The Ultimate Momitsu 880 Modifications

It has 5 BNC for RGBHV. My XBR36" asia model has RGBHV instead of DVI input.

The white cable connected to the bnc is indeed silver belden cables

7. Audio output (OPAMP) is replaced by national semiconductor LM 6172 which has slew rate of 3000V/μs. the sound is much more faster and open.


8. Crystal oscilator (XO) is replaced by VCXO ( voltage control oscilator) which is regulated by black gate NX ( this very small black gate cost $10 for 1). This mods is the small board inserted neadr the sigma chip in the photo. the new clock produces lower jitter. interm of result the contras ratio is increased significantly, and the noise in the picture is also reduced.


what do i get?


The first mods was replacing all conductors with black gate. Brightness n contrast was imeddiately go up. the picture was more vivid and demension was much better, although white n black level were not perfect. The best mods was replacing the crystal. I never seen anything like it. the deep of field and the demension is totally amazing. imagine 5 people in cross vertical position 1 meter apart from each other. those 5 people will come out from my tv, i can feel the 3d from front to back. it is like watching 5 layer combine into one and every 1 of them have amazing deep, just like waching a 3d movie. We played star wars and the lightsaber is nothing like i ever seen before. the color so vivid i feel like exactly looking at a color neon sign in front of me. white n black level are also perfect.


my friend has been in studio/hifi industry for some time and he told me my momitsu is the best dvd player he has ever tried...



i will be moving to santa barbara, CA soon, i look forward to meet any of you with the best denon and pioneer dvd players. Anyone from california is welcome to compare


Future mods: Pure analog external power supply

hope i can sheath some light in this DVD.


to compare it via photo is quite impractical. i don't think the camera is capable to pick up the differences. its like comparing Ben & Jerry's Vs Häagen-Dazs without actually tasted it. you have to have faith my friend.


it is a 880. not 880DX. i have done modification on 880dx as well, they are practically the same.


To modify this DVD you don`t need any fancy equipment, just an soldering iron, desoldering tools and a normal multimeter. that is the basic tools which you can get from Radioshack. as the skill needed is just a reasonable soldering skill will do.


the Shield is custom fab. it is made from 0.3mm copper sheet. so you can form it without special tool just a strong scissors and a soldering iron.


I am also interested modifying oppo,

Does any body know good threads that comparing oppo to momitsu?


i am sorry, i cannot do modification on your DVD, my work is one of only. but i can guide u on how to do it.


in therm of future modification; i don't think i will ad on networking. just buy 880N if you need one. the up sampling in the 880 i is done by the sigma em8500, and it does not have analog video input, so to insert a external video is impossible.


what i will do is to create a full analog power supply to replace the switching power supply to reduce noise and jitter further. and also installing a secondary clock.


Yep i did modification on the liteon 166 Firmware to remove its region checker. so it can read any disc. and also replaced it's internal bypass caps.


to connect your sony 400-disk player with DX only possible if the sony loader is IDE base. which is unlikely for sony. the other option is to connect external hard drive. there is some thread that tell you how to do it and what can be connected to 880.


The upgrade clock kit can be bought easily in the internet. such as LClock, XO3, XO2, etc. just read you dvd clock frequency(usually 27Mhz) and the shop will tell you how to install it. clock is the hearth beat of digital device. the better the clock ( lower jitter) the better the output is. even for ps3. have fun.


To replace caps in the power supply is easy just follow the golden rule. if the capacitor is connected in the voltage rail output of the power supply, the bigger it is the better, but make sure u use the same voltage ratting or higher then the original. if in doubt just replace with the same value, same voltage ratting and uFarad, which can be read in the original caps. the quality of the caps is very important use the best such as rubicon black gate or elna silmic. As all audio tweaker know the quality of the power supply is very very very !!!! important to get a good output, the same also applied in video.


Santos is very busy at the moment. he is moving To LA and just start entering Uni. so i think he will disappear for a while.


the 880 and 880dx share the same construction and design. i have replace the loader on 880dx with liteon 166 as well. from my research liteon 166 is the best loader. the new 169 is now power by sony chip and is not as good as the old one. samsung is also good it has a rich color.


using 880 as upsampler is not possible, as i have explained above.


Buying an expensive DVD, anybody can do that as long as you got dead presidents. But to modify things is and see the result is the fun. and to be able to beat a much more expensive player is even better. I have done it and it feel like heaven.


keep tweaking

santodx5: suggests

--- 7. Audio output (OPAMP) is replaced by national semiconductor LM 6172 which has slew rate of 3000V/μs. the sound is much more faster and open.


--- Loader is replaced by Lite On 166 (after a lot of testing among asus,pioneer, and lite on). The new lite on 16P9S is not as good as the old model.



?? can anyone tell me if this OPAMP affects Analog or Digital output (or maybe both)


?? can't find LiteOn 166 -- what about LiteOn 167T (how much better than 16P9S)

Quote:


Sorry for the late reply, i just moved to LA. my momi is the 880. The dx version is practically the same version with some minor adjustment. if u want 1 get the dx. i looked into oppo coz i am looking for its mod capabilities. We looked at the board and decide that momi is better. the oppo loader cant be changed n there are too many boards that will hinder some mods.


For 880n, i am not interested. for the 166 yes we changed the capacitors inside.


My friends already post some tips, just ask him, he is the master

Moding my 880DX

just changed out the EPO loader for a LiteOn 16P9 (couldn't get 166)

also installed a new 80wire shielded 12in IDE cable


ATTN: u must install the NEW loader in your PC 1st

so u can set the REGION control.....otherwise it won't WORK

i had trouble getting RPC to set after 1st putting in 880dx

but after it set overnight (go figure) PowerDVD brought up RPC set window

now it WORKS (had LiteOn TechSuport on the phone---they know NOTHING)


also would recommend making a TEMPLATE of bottom screw holes in LiteOn

after alignment use the TEMPLATE to mark where U drill thru the bottom 880

my original pencil marks were OFF and alignment of little screws was difficult


BEND back little EARS at front of LiteOn that HOLD or Guide front plate

otherwise these can SHORT against Front control PCboard of Momi


REMOTE Drive Operation seems quicker than the original EPO loader

unit SPINS up fast at first and then SLOWs to a quite run speed

PQ looks about the SAME----Sound is maybe BETTER (probably deluding myself)

I just received my used Bravo D1.


The c1022 capacitor (stock 1000uv 16v) has some black goo on the bottm. Looks the like the cap is sitting in a pool of black goo.


Another Cap (the BIG round one closest to the back of the D1-all by it's lonesome) is sitting in a pool of brown goo.

neither cap is bulged at the top nor do they appear to be leaking from the sides.

I imagine the black and brown goo is BAAAAD.


I was planning on replacing the c1022 with a Rubycon 1000uf 50v. Looks like I should change the other cap too.


Any suggestion on the specific rating/type for this big round cap?


Am I correct in thinking the goo is not a good sign?




I also plan on doing the loader swap with a liteon and replacing the IDE with a shielded one.


Thanks.

The Black and brown goo under the caps is usually silicone sealant or hot melt glue. so it should be ok. Mboy post the picture of the caps so i can made a better advice.


if you planned to replace it with any standard rubicon caps, it would not improve the output quality. you have to use rubicon black gate, which you can buy from high end hifi part supplier. or you can solder solen caps in parallel with the original caps (Bypass caps). the most important one to replace caps the +5V rail.


replacing the original loader with 16p9 is will not made significant improvement (166 is much better). but it made a subtle improvement. replacing IDE is also the same. as with the olds chinese saying "little by little will create mountain".those small improvement will add up and if you keep modifying, you will astonished with your 880 improvement at the end. the bigest one shoot improvement is replacing the clock. try that one. replacing all polar caps on the mb also significant.


mouw do you use DVI or component?

I will try and post pics tonight.


Which one is 5v rail?


Replacing loader with 166s for sure.


Looking for modest improvement, but main concern is strictly for stability.

Clock would be nice, but those appear to be 5xs what I paid for the player.


Stable, working player would make me happy.


Too bad you or anyone doesn't offer a swap for the power board/mobo trade in type gig


Oh, I also hear that Rubycon ZA caps are as good as the black gates.