Holy cow those are going to look sweet...
I do have one more toy that helps level the playing field,
The HDFury Intergral can remove the flag for HDR and play a brighter image on the JVC
while still maintaining 4K BT.2020 and Wide Color Gamut,
One more HDR comparison first...
JVC in SDR
OLED in HDR
JVC in SDR
OLED in HDR
JVC in SDR
OLED in HDR
I'm using several 18Gbps shorter 6' cables I bought from HDFury (4 pack for $99)
For my long run (40') to my JVC from the Intergral I have an IOGear active high speed ($69)
posted more details here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...new-house-basement-plans-12.html#post47168265
If you're sending your signal through a Yamaha AVR you must put it in 4K Mode 1
it's in the advanced menu, where 4K Mode 2 is the factory default for lower bandwidth legacy devices/cables.
Snip from the Yamaha Manual:
Oops, I thought you had posted about the Oppo being on the way. My mistake.
Sorry, but I have no idea where you got the impression I have ever had an Oppo.
I picked up the Panasonic UB900 shortly after it was released in Canada,
I believe it arrived just two days after my JVC back in late August.
The HDFury was ordered within two weeks later and that 3-way combo was a winner.
No need to ever even look at the Oppo, that would have been about the same price as
the Panny and HDFury combo...and from the sounds of the JVC thread...failed miserably
at HDR to SDR conversion.
..and Yes, regular 1080 bluray looks fantastic upscaled to 4K on the Panasonic.
My screen shots from Prometheus look better than many 4K/UHD's.
Here are two questions on reference level, so I will provide some explanation that will hopefully help with both.
Recordings can have loudness levels that are measured in dbFS (decibels relative to full scale). 0dbFS is the loudest possible signal. -100dbFS would be almost completely silent, or at least we'll below the noise floor of your room, which will typically be 20-30db.
Typical listening levels for datmytine viewing are around 70-80db for dialog and talk, depending on how loud you listen. IMAX movie theaters typically run dialog at 80-85db. The loudest parts will hit 100+db.
Every 10db increase is a perceived doubling of the volume of sound. So, 80db seems twice as loud as 70db. 100db seems 8 times as loud at 70db. A real-life gun-shot is 120db and a civil war era cannon is 140db. Home theaters and movie theaters are generally setup to listen at reference level: 75db average, and 105db for brief periods for loud stuff like fun shots and explosions. Some people find reference level listening uncomfortably loud.
The volume knob setting, when on a scale that includes 0db near the top, and negatives below that, applies and attenuation to the output. So, 0db is reference, and --20db will apply 20db of attenuation to the signal, making it seem 4 times quieter than reference level.
So, a properly calibrated listening environment, when set to 0db on the volume knob, when playing back a -30dbFS signal, will produce 75db SPL at the listening position.
Denon and Marantz (D+M) units normalize volume using -30dbFS test tones and sets levels so the sound arriving at the microphone position hits 75db SPL. That means 0db on the volume dial will produce reference level sound. Reference level sound is such that a maximum input signal (which means recorded at 0dbFS) will produce 105db SPL at the listening position and 115db of bass/subwoofer from the LFE channel. The LFE channel is mastered with a -10db included, so the AVR boosts the LFE channel by 10db more than the mains. That SPL is loud, like near rock concert loud (which is 110db). D+M units can go over 0db on the volume knob (up to about +10db) which would produce up to 115db sound and 125db of LFE, assuming your speakers and amps can handle it. With D+M Audyssey calibration all speakers levels are adjusted and you can see trim levels set for all speakers. Setting the volume dial to -10db should produce the same volume level at the listening position no matter what model D+M AVR you are using.
Yamaha YPAO works differently. YPAO still sets relative levels using a -30dbFS test tones, but doesn't set all channels to 75db SPL at the listening position. Instead, it matches all channels to your mains. So, after YPAO typically the mains trim will be 0db and all the other channels are adjusted up or down to match. This, unfortunately, will result in variances. -10db on the volume knob will produce different SPL at the listening position with different speakers, amps, rooms, and even between two different YPAO runs. So, with Yamaha there's no way to tell just how loud any setting on the volume dial is without normalizing the channel trims. That also means there's no way to tell what volume setting on the AVR produces reference level sound.
If you want to normalize your channel trims after YPAO, you'll need an SPL meter (there are some inexpensive SPL meters on Amazon, free mobile apps, and free software called REW that can do this too). With the SPL meter use the Yamaha manual test tones and adjust all channel trims up or down until they all result in 75db at the microphone position. After YPAO the net result should me adjusting up or down ALL channels by the exact same amount. That will result in 0db on the AVR volume dial producing exactly reference level SPL.
Another way to normalize if you have external amplification for your mains is to start up a test tone on front left and adjust the external amp's trim/gain until you get 75db SPL reading in the meter at the listening position. Then do the same for front right. The gain/trim knobs on your external amp channels for L/R should end up very close to the same position. Adjust all other amp trim knobs on the same amp (or same manufacturer/model amps) to around the same position. Then run YPAO. Since YPAO level matches all speakers to your mains, and you just calibrated your mains to 75db SPL, all speakers should be set to produce 75db SPL at the listening position.
If you don't normalize, just remember that 0db is just about as loud as you'll ever need or want, and every 10db lower on the volume dial will result in sound that seems half as loud.
Hope that helps!