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I have a pair of Ascend Sierra Ones in cherry finish, and I enjoy looking at them as much as listening to them.

I don't know if I'd ever turn those on, or just put them on the kitchen table and look at them.
 

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Wow......That's really close, the only advantage i could see in the pic is the whites on the OLED just a bit bright & so is the image. But that's scary close.
 

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I do have one more toy that helps level the playing field,

The HDFury Intergral can remove the flag for HDR and play a brighter image on the JVC

while still maintaining 4K BT.2020 and Wide Color Gamut,







One more HDR comparison first...



JVC





OLED







JVC in SDR





OLED in HDR





JVC in SDR





OLED in HDR





JVC in SDR





OLED in HDR



To my eye, the JVC and the OLED look very comparable. I have the same gear as you, but I can't get the Panny and JVC to link with a 4k 4:4:4 connection. I contacted JVC and they suggested trying certified 4k 18 cables. I'm running Blue Jeans now from 4 feet and only getting 1080P rec709. What cables do you use?


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Nice Pictures of the JVC Vs. OLD, I like the JVC pictures better because of the details shown,the oled seems to be over exaggerating the whites,look at the clouds in pictures and also in the Star Trek movie,the top of the heads of the people. Looks great though. I'm A JVC Projector owner also so I'm a little biased lol.


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I'm using several 18Gbps shorter 6' cables I bought from HDFury (4 pack for $99)





For my long run (40') to my JVC from the Intergral I have an IOGear active high speed ($69)



posted more details here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...new-house-basement-plans-12.html#post47168265





If you're sending your signal through a Yamaha AVR you must put it in 4K Mode 1

it's in the advanced menu, where 4K Mode 2 is the factory default for lower bandwidth legacy devices/cables.



Snip from the Yamaha Manual:



Thanks for the reply. That 40" cable has to be good to output a strong signal of that length. And it seems to be reasonably priced. I need to rethink my choices in HDMI cabling.


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I know the feeling,I have a 65" Panasonic VT plasma for everyday watching,only use the theater for movies,big sporting events and any 4k from Firestick. So 2-3 times a week normally.


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Seeing how you have both the Panasonic UB900 and the Oppo-203, can you comment on how the Oppo fares in terms of upscaling regular BDs? I ask because I hear the Panasonic is fantastic in that regard.
 

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:confused:

Sorry, but I have no idea where you got the impression I have ever had an Oppo.
I picked up the Panasonic UB900 shortly after it was released in Canada,
I believe it arrived just two days after my JVC back in late August.

The HDFury was ordered within two weeks later and that 3-way combo was a winner.
No need to ever even look at the Oppo, that would have been about the same price as
the Panny and HDFury combo...and from the sounds of the JVC thread...failed miserably
at HDR to SDR conversion.

..and Yes, regular 1080 bluray looks fantastic upscaled to 4K on the Panasonic.
My screen shots from Prometheus look better than many 4K/UHD's.
Oops, I thought you had posted about the Oppo being on the way. My mistake.

Anyway, the reason I had asked was because I have ordered the Oppo and am having a bit of buyer's remorse. The HDR to SDR conversion is a mess for now but I'm sure it will be fixed in a few months time. I'm actually more concerned about the upscaling capabilities of the Oppo compared to the Panny.
 

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Been quiet here for a while. Pio, just wanted to stop by to let you know that I do believe I've decided on a JVC RS520, the new 500 that has a low lag game mode, which I'm sure you're already aware of. Your beautiful pics (and info) are one of the things that won me over from the Epson. Thanks for sharing!

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Hey Pio,

Digging this one up as I hoped to send you a PM, but not able.

richlife and others have raved about the amazing Yamaha scenes settings you posted in this thread, but I've been unable to find them.

Any chance you could point us to them or re-post?

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 · (Edited)
Long Time-No Post :)

Sorry for the last 9 pages of mostly disjointed/broken/blank/deleted posts that span the last 10 years, wow time flies! :eek:

I lost a ton-o-pics when photobucket pulled the plug on 3rd party hosting on one of my primary user accounts :mad:
and also lost a lot of my original photos I had loaded onto a laptop that died, from an old smartphone that died.

I managed to re-piece the OP together with my most current gear (2016) over the last year.
(this time uploading photos to the AVS servers instead of sketchy on-line photo hosting sites.)
also used another old thread to restore some of my Original HT v1.0 Build pics from Day 1
...that I managed to recover from the old laptops HDD Here: Unfinished Basement

I almost wish I could just delete everything after the OP in this thread leading up to this one,
perhaps someone from admin can help with that?

================================================

Moving Forward ...

My latest venture, after setting up my JVC projector with Custom Gamma Curves for HDR earlier this year (more on that later)
is digging a little Deeper into Audio Calibration, this time to also integrate some BEQ (aka Bass EQ) on heavily filtered 4K/UHD and BD movies coming out lately

A new thread has been started in the Subwoofer section here: Bass EQ for FilTURD Movies

But to keep my personal "Stuff" from clogging the BEQ section,
I decided to log my own personal journey by reviving my old Build Thread.

I'm not 100% new to REW (Room EQ Wizard)
but I never got real deep beyond the basic measure, correct it and forget it.

I downloaded the most recent version of REW, MiniDSP 2x4 HD1 Plug-In,
New miniDSP 2x4HD and IR Remote. From amazon: a Boom mic tripod stand ($20) for my UMIK-1 USB mic.










 

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Discussion Starter · #276 · (Edited)






Oops, slightly delayed the first run to watch an old Favorite :D

 

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Discussion Starter · #277 · (Edited)
First sweep, slight bump at 70Hz to tame, but otherwise I'm happy, no nulls
...Generous House Curve with an elevated Bottom end (~14Hz) was intentional :eek:





No miniDSP tweaks....yet :)

Here's an AllDSP screen shot from my Funk Audio sub presets

No-EQ
setting


Switching to this one next, Flat EQ


Max Extension looks like too much for my small room





Quoted from jch2:

RE: How YPAO works and why "0" MV may not actually be "Reference" level output compared to other AVR's

Here are two questions on reference level, so I will provide some explanation that will hopefully help with both.

Recordings can have loudness levels that are measured in dbFS (decibels relative to full scale). 0dbFS is the loudest possible signal. -100dbFS would be almost completely silent, or at least we'll below the noise floor of your room, which will typically be 20-30db.

Typical listening levels for datmytine viewing are around 70-80db for dialog and talk, depending on how loud you listen. IMAX movie theaters typically run dialog at 80-85db. The loudest parts will hit 100+db.

Every 10db increase is a perceived doubling of the volume of sound. So, 80db seems twice as loud as 70db. 100db seems 8 times as loud at 70db. A real-life gun-shot is 120db and a civil war era cannon is 140db. Home theaters and movie theaters are generally setup to listen at reference level: 75db average, and 105db for brief periods for loud stuff like fun shots and explosions. Some people find reference level listening uncomfortably loud.

The volume knob setting, when on a scale that includes 0db near the top, and negatives below that, applies and attenuation to the output. So, 0db is reference, and --20db will apply 20db of attenuation to the signal, making it seem 4 times quieter than reference level.

So, a properly calibrated listening environment, when set to 0db on the volume knob, when playing back a -30dbFS signal, will produce 75db SPL at the listening position.

Denon and Marantz (D+M) units normalize volume using -30dbFS test tones and sets levels so the sound arriving at the microphone position hits 75db SPL. That means 0db on the volume dial will produce reference level sound. Reference level sound is such that a maximum input signal (which means recorded at 0dbFS) will produce 105db SPL at the listening position and 115db of bass/subwoofer from the LFE channel. The LFE channel is mastered with a -10db included, so the AVR boosts the LFE channel by 10db more than the mains. That SPL is loud, like near rock concert loud (which is 110db). D+M units can go over 0db on the volume knob (up to about +10db) which would produce up to 115db sound and 125db of LFE, assuming your speakers and amps can handle it. With D+M Audyssey calibration all speakers levels are adjusted and you can see trim levels set for all speakers. Setting the volume dial to -10db should produce the same volume level at the listening position no matter what model D+M AVR you are using.

Yamaha YPAO works differently. YPAO still sets relative levels using a -30dbFS test tones, but doesn't set all channels to 75db SPL at the listening position. Instead, it matches all channels to your mains. So, after YPAO typically the mains trim will be 0db and all the other channels are adjusted up or down to match. This, unfortunately, will result in variances. -10db on the volume knob will produce different SPL at the listening position with different speakers, amps, rooms, and even between two different YPAO runs. So, with Yamaha there's no way to tell just how loud any setting on the volume dial is without normalizing the channel trims. That also means there's no way to tell what volume setting on the AVR produces reference level sound.

If you want to normalize your channel trims after YPAO, you'll need an SPL meter (there are some inexpensive SPL meters on Amazon, free mobile apps, and free software called REW that can do this too). With the SPL meter use the Yamaha manual test tones and adjust all channel trims up or down until they all result in 75db at the microphone position. After YPAO the net result should me adjusting up or down ALL channels by the exact same amount. That will result in 0db on the AVR volume dial producing exactly reference level SPL.

Another way to normalize if you have external amplification for your mains is to start up a test tone on front left and adjust the external amp's trim/gain until you get 75db SPL reading in the meter at the listening position. Then do the same for front right. The gain/trim knobs on your external amp channels for L/R should end up very close to the same position. Adjust all other amp trim knobs on the same amp (or same manufacturer/model amps) to around the same position. Then run YPAO. Since YPAO level matches all speakers to your mains, and you just calibrated your mains to 75db SPL, all speakers should be set to produce 75db SPL at the listening position.

If you don't normalize, just remember that 0db is just about as loud as you'll ever need or want, and every 10db lower on the volume dial will result in sound that seems half as loud.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 · (Edited)
AVR already has Dual independent sub outputs:

(So delay/distance/EQ/phase correction are already in place for both outs)
For maximum performance, it's best to do ALL that in the miniDSP, but I'm not going there right now in this thread.

Sub-1 pre-out on the AVR will supply the signal for my Front Funk Audio 18.0's (into input 1 on the miniDSP)
Sub-2 pre-out on the AVR will supply the signal for my Rear near-field Velodyne 15's (into input 2 on the miniDSP)
(USB cable running to my laptop on the left)



The miniDSP Outputs 1&2 go to Front Subs (Left and Right)
The miniDSP Outputs 3&4 go to Rear Subs (Left and Right)
(power cable on the left)

miniDSP HD1 screen

Showing how my Front Sub input signal is turned off for my two rear subs (3&4 outs)
and my Rear subs only get the Rear Signal from my AVR (1&2 output turned off)



You can easily Matrix the in/outs to suite your own configuration.
You may want just 1 sub signal input and 4 outs with all the same signal
...then go into each sub channel and set their own EQ/Delay etc. individually (you'll want to use REW for that!)

I think I saw it somewhere that its preferred to use a Y splitter,
to split a single RCA sub signal from your AVR to the inputs 1&2 on the miniDSP ...but maybe that was only for the non-HD model?

Next click on the outputs tab



The crossovers are set for High Pass BYPASSED on inputs 1&3 for Subs, and set for Low Pass BYPASS on inputs 2&4 for Speakers by default
So you will need to manually change the Xover bypass filters on outputs 2&4 to match output channel 1 (the last two bottom selections)

Channel 1 out is correct, just make sure all are the same now.


Next hit the PEQ Tab, start with Channel 1, This opens up 10 available adjustments for BEQ settings
Repeat the same modifications to each of the 3 remaining channels, the far right tab should read Low Shelf for the filter type.
(I used the Output channels, but to save time with fewer entries, I found entering PEQ settings on the Input channels much easier next time around)



Hit "Connect" in the top right corner of your screen to update the new BEQ settings to your miniDSP (Green check mark in screen shot below)
Then synchronize now selection on the popup menu. Once you are up and running, you can unplug the USB cable from your laptop.

...or leave it hooked up to monitor your 4 sub levels in real time


If you want to switch between 4 different memory modes using an IR remote,
make sure the side of the miniDSP with the IR receiver (and the blue light) is facing your seat, (cover the LED with black tape if its too bright)



I used the miniDSP remote ($5) to toggle between BEQ adjustments saved in Memory slot 1 and my standard house curve (bypass) on Memory slot 2

My USB cable isn't quite long enough to reach from my miniDSP to get my laptop back to my seat,
so my next purchase .... a miniDSP WiFi adapter (to keep my laptop "On" my laptop)



https://www.minidsp.com/products/accessories/wi-dg

...also looking for a new "Alexa Friendly" AVR upgrade (With Dolby Vision this time!)





 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
Done Deal! :)

Picked up one of the last RX-A3070's in Western Canada, being shipped from Winnipeg Manitoba no less LOL!
Haggled the price down with my usual local dealer to $600 less than the new RX-A3080 :p

When I saw the stripped down spec for the 2018 Yamaha RX-A3080 :eek:
...I scrambled to find a 3070 before they were all gone.

My Primary motivators:

1) Dolby Vision pass through ...that my RX-3050 did not get a FW update for. :mad:
My Oppo 203 that used to bypass the AVR with two HDMI solution split for Video/Audio... is No More! (on screen display YA!)
...and recently the XBO X is announced to be getting a DV update too.

2) 12 Scene memory slots, and YES I use them ALL!!! (stripped down to only 8 in the 3080 model)

3) Still has a Front HDMI in port behind the hidden panel for my LapTop (REW) or GoPro camera, (gone on the RX-A3080)

4) No Dolby Up-Mixer limitations (being imposed on all 2018 Yamaha models)

I'm also interested in expanding my home automation with Amazon Echo/Dot/Alexa capabilities , old 3050 not compatible.

My current Scene setup in the Yamaha AV Controller App on my Android Tablet for my RX-A3050:



:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 · (Edited)

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