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I just looked it up and it does have dsp and a ton of controls. Either on the front panel or by using a pc linked by a usb cable
Then you can adjust all kinds of things
I believe these guys have posted the setup for that amp. High pass/ low pass, filters and all kinds of great, helpful info. Just keep reading and you will find it


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I'm sitting on an NX6000D and I'm worried it's too much. Is there any way to power the double PA460's slot port setup without frying them? I got the amp used and I've never set one up before. Maybe i should be asking this in the amplifier thread?
For the NX6000 you need to add woofers in pairs that are wired in series then double the voltage of the limiter in the provided DSP settings. With a pair wired in series the woofers will receive the same power as they would powered by the NX3000 except instead of 8 individual woofers (4 per channel in parallel) you can power 16 woofers (4 series pairs wired in parallel on each channel). Note the DSP filter settings are attached at the bottom of the first post.

If you use the DSP settings without changes you can safely power a PA460 off the 6000 without any special wiring as the limiter keeps power at a safe level but you are limited to only two woofers connected in parallel per channel (4 ohm load). Technically this only utilizes 1/4 the amps potential.
 

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I just looked it up and it does have dsp and a ton of controls. Either on the front panel or by using a pc linked by a usb cable
Then you can adjust all kinds of things
I believe these guys have posted the setup for that amp. High pass/ low pass, filters and all kinds of great, helpful info. Just keep reading and you will find it


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Yes, it has DSP but I haven’t been able to connect via USB yet. I’ve got a support ticket in for that. Anyway, I understand wiring in series vs parallel and the respective changes to the ohm load but I wasn’t 100% sure about the wattage factor and would rather ask before frying a brand new (to me) amp or Sub(s). :)
 

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Like this:


Volume and tuning work.

2x 26.5" x 48" sides
2x 20" x 48" baffle/rear
2x 18.5 x 26.5" top/bottom

If you want woofers flush mounted throw a second baffle layer (1/2 or 3/4) on there.

Throw three of the 4" precision ports on the bottom (full length) and add some bracing and you are set.

Uses about 1-1/2 to 2 sheets of MDF depending on bracing style. Sides and baffle/back fit neatly on one sheet, then you have the top/bottom and bracing on the other.

All three ports open give you ~20hz tune, plug one port (2 open) and you have ~16hz tune but that should work with the 15hz DSP profile.

Thinking about this more I'd swap the positions of the ports so that the single port is at the rear and the two side by side are in the towards the middle. This gives more room for the large feet needed at the corners needed to lift the cabinet high enough for port clearance.

I was looking for feet that are tall enough to give the ports good clearance. Id say something of at least 3" would be needed.
It may be easiest to use some furniture or couch legs. Something similar to these:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Replacement-Furniture-Loveseats-Ottoman/dp/B07TM3DN5Q/ref=psdc_511274_t2_B01J59T4GM
Or:
https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/3-Round-Solid-Wood-Furniture-Leg-Chair-Sofa-Cabinet-Feet-Replacement-Set-of-4/26635319/product.html?refccid=KIPCI75S3YU3MXCIAPE5IFHPQQ&searchidx=5&guid=62445ab1-dc1c-458b-901c-a6c5f2c30394&osp=true&option=44737655&kwds=cabinet feet&rfmt=

My other thought was to cut a bunch of MDF rings with a hole saw and stack them up.

Loving this-This will be my next sub project hopefully in the next few weeks. Good way to keep this amazing woofer going strong. im assuming the 16/15hz tune would be closer to 30" slot port.
 

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I'd cut the slot port height down a little to keep it from eating up too much internal volume. So say 1.75" high x 24" long for a 15Hz tune. This way you don't need an elbow on the back either.
 

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Slot port version.

2.5" high x 18" long slot port gives ~20hz tuning. Make it 7" long for the 30hz tune. For 15Hz you want the port to be 1.75" high and 24" long.

Drivers centers 12" down from top and 12" up from top of slot port.

I've got my drivers coming to build a pair of VBSS's but am not considering doing this dual VBSS instead if performance is equal or better as it would make adding another easier later on :))), but I don't have 28" of depth, is there any reason I can't make it 20" deep and 28" wide moving the drivers to the long side? For a 20Hz tune would the 18" slot port work without an elbow, or would that not give enough breathing room at the back of the port? If that doesn't work what about a slot port or 3-precision ports on the top of the sub?
 

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Slot port version.

2.5" high x 18" long slot port gives ~20hz tuning. Make it 7" long for the 30hz tune. For 15Hz you want the port to be 1.75" high and 24" long.

Drivers centers 12" down from top and 12" up from top of slot port.
.

I am building this version of the VBSS and making a sofa table, I have a Behringer NX 3000D, if I want to power both PA 460’ s on one channel, will I wire it in, Series or Parallel? Thanks
 

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.

I am building this version of the VBSS and making a sofa table, I have a Behringer NX 3000D, if I want to power both PA 460’ s on one channel, will I wire it in, Series or Parallel? Thanks

Since PA460s are 8ohm, you can wire the pair in parallel and that'll present a 4ohm load to one channel on the amp, which is ideal.
 

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I'm getting ready to go to Lowes tonight to get my MDF and supplies for my first sub build ever. I notice some people using construction adhesive instead of wood glue for the adhesive. What is the recommended adhesive to use? Do people run a bead of caulk or glue on all the interior seams of the box to ensure a good airtight seal?



I think I've decided to try a slot port version of the Dual Driver VBSS tuned to 20Hz. It looks like it can be done with 1.5 sheets of MDF leaving me half a sheet for my second one (I'll wait for a BF sale on the drivers). I'll be putting the drivers on the 28" side of the box as I only have 24" behind my screen. I'm sure I'll be back with all sorts of questions, being my first build and all, but thank you to everyone here for their help, especially Matt, for designing these bad boys and helping all the mere mortals (like myself) to get it right.


Draft Cut List is below
 

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Parts Ordered for 2 VBSS's - helpful hints?

So, I just ordered all the parts I need to build two of the original VBSS's using the 4" precision ports. Just need to get to the store to buy the MDF and glue.

I've read all 72 pages of post and jotted down lot's of good info from everyone.

Looking for any helpful hints, lessons learned, or anything that somebody wishes they had done differently. Especially interested in the assembly order.

My plan:

(1) Two of the original VBSS using the (2) 4" Precision Ports using Loctite PL3X for the glue.

(2) Will be double baffle with recessed port flanges. No plan for roundovers on any edges.

(2) I ordered a standard 5 way terminal cup as I didn't really want the speakon connectors stick too far out do to the location. With that I purchased a 25 ft speakon cable and will cut in half and strip back the raw wires to go to the 5-way posts on the speakers.

(3) Drivers will be mounted with T-nuts and black cap screws (#10-32 from Parts Express)

(4) Dampening material will be eggcrate mattress topper to sides and back (but not behind ports)

(5) Finish will be a black ash vinyl laminate on sides/top/bottom. Front an back will be Behr Premium Plus, Limo Leather, Satin. I believe this will match my Polks the best.

(6) I will be building grill using standard grill cloth to cover the entire front and use the Parts Express Heavy Duty Grill Guides. Should match the Polks

(7) Speakers will sit on 1 1/4" Isolate it pads

(8) Haven't ordered the NX3000D yet, but I do plan on installing the fan mod (w/ Noctua NF-A8 FLX) and plan on a remote power to turn on. Looking at smart plug that I can make part of my Harmony routine for entertainment center turn on.

Appreciate and helpful hints, lessons learned, or feedback on things people wish they had done different. Thank!
 

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(8) Haven't ordered the NX3000D yet, but I do plan on installing the fan mod (w/ Noctua NF-A8 FLX) and plan on a remote power to turn on. Looking at smart plug that I can make part of my Harmony routine for entertainment center turn on.



Appreciate and helpful hints, lessons learned, or feedback on things people wish they had done different. Thank!
You will have a potentially ear shattering bump when your inuke gets auto powered off. There are multiple threads on how you can mod the amp to avoid this. Although I have yet to find a good step by step tutorial myself.

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You will have a potentially ear shattering bump when your inuke gets auto powered off. There are multiple threads on how you can mod the amp to avoid this. Although I have yet to find a good step by step tutorial myself.

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I haven't found anything on modding the amp to avoid this, but I would be interested.

I see some are using a a relay and using 12V trigger to remote power on - but not sure if this helps with the power on thump. I could do the relay but can accomplish the same with a smart plug and incorporating the power on into the harmony sequence.
 

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I notice some people using construction adhesive instead of wood glue for the adhesive. What is the recommended adhesive to use? Do people run a bead of caulk or glue on all the interior seams of the box to ensure a good airtight seal?



The two main types of adhesives used around here are PL3x and traditional wood glue like titebond. I've used both on my different builds. I prefer titebond wood glue. I will run a bead of glue, spread it out with my finger or scrap piece of wood, glue the panel in place, clamp it, and then use a brad nailer to secure.



I think one of the preferred advantages with the PL3x is that it expands as it dries. So in the event your cuts aren't straight or square or you have a gap somewhere, the PL3x will fill the gap. However, it is also very messy to work with.







I take my time measuring and re-measuring and making sure my cuts are square, so filling gaps isn't an issue for me. Titebond 2 is my adhesive of choice. :)
 

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I haven't found anything on modding the amp to avoid this, but I would be interested.



I see some are using a a relay and using 12V trigger to remote power on - but not sure if this helps with the power on thump. I could do the relay but can accomplish the same with a smart plug and incorporating the power on into the harmony sequence.
The 12v trigger mod is independent from the relay power thump mod. IMHO the 12v trigger mod isn't as valuable because you can use smart plugs or a HT power conditioner like I have. But none of those will address the thump. The relay does some electronic staging of the power cycle within the amp to remove the thump, it's not just another trigger. I bought the relay but am cautious of doing the mod. Even with my harmony setup and a triggered power conditioner, I still get a crazy thump so I still manually turn my amp for now.

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This is from one of the sequenced models of Panamax power modules:


Sequential Startup/Shutdown:
Complex audio/video systems may be susceptible to voltage transients generated internally at start-up/shutdown if all of the equipment is powered on or off at the same time. This can cause speaker “thumps” which are not only annoying but can also damage the speakers. The MAX 5500-EX is designed to eliminate these transients by providing a “start-up” delay for the High-Current outlets and a “shutdown” delay for the Switched Outlet Bank. This allows the components plugged into the Switched Outlet Bank to power-up and stabilize before any amplifiers and powered sub-woofers are turned on. This sequence is reversed during shutdown. The amplifiers and powered subwoofers turn off, their power supplies drain, and then the equipment plugged into the Switched Outlet Bank is turned off.

Not sure if this really helps as I am not to that point yet with powering up my theater.


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This is from one of the sequenced models of Panamax power modules:


Sequential Startup/Shutdown:
Complex audio/video systems may be susceptible to voltage transients generated internally at start-up/shutdown if all of the equipment is powered on or off at the same time. This can cause speaker “thumps” which are not only annoying but can also damage the speakers. The MAX 5500-EX is designed to eliminate these transients by providing a “start-up” delay for the High-Current outlets and a “shutdown” delay for the Switched Outlet Bank. This allows the components plugged into the Switched Outlet Bank to power-up and stabilize before any amplifiers and powered sub-woofers are turned on. This sequence is reversed during shutdown. The amplifiers and powered subwoofers turn off, their power supplies drain, and then the equipment plugged into the Switched Outlet Bank is turned off.

Not sure if this really helps as I am not to that point yet with powering up my theater.


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If it just a powering on(off) sequencing issue I can correct that within the Harmony Power on(off) sequence. Just have it power everything up except the outlet for the NX3000D, set a delay to accommodate any transients, then power on the outlet for the NX3000D.

I don't have the amp yet - so I cannot try this. But before I mod too much I would see if there is a sequence that would eliminate any power on thump from the amp.
 
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