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Alright I'm going to need a router for this job and though I could borrow one, it might make sense to add one to my tool chest. What sort of router should I be looking for a fixed base router or a plunge router? Any suggestions for an affordable model?
I have an older Ryobi that works fine and wasn't too expensive.

Harbor Freight has Trim Router for cheap money. It also comes with a jig that can be used as a circle cutter - not the fanciest jig but works. Somebody posted about using not too long ago..
 

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I am very pleased with how my VBSS build is going and thought I'd share a few things I learned.
  1. Make the flush baffle cuts a little loose so the driver and ports still go in when there is a little paint buildup.
  2. Make the baffle cut about .2 smaller than the Rockville spec sheet says. It's just plain wrong.
  3. If you use Gorilla Glue, clean up the foamy extra after the glue sets but before it fully hardens.
  4. If you bevel the corners, start with the side edges only, the all the way around the top and bottom. The corners look a lot better that way.
  5. Run a tap through the hurricane nuts. I had several with defective threads causing one to spin in the baffle.
  6. Use Bondo to hide anything that is less than perfect.
  7. Use the highest quality latex paint (if that how you choose to go). The middle grade felt soft and slightly tacky for days.
  8. Use the highest quality roller to apply paint. I had a problem with shedding and had to sand and pick lint with tweasers for hours and apply another coat. I ended up with Wooster PRO 9" x 3/8" 563757 from HD.
  9. Paint the front, back, sides and top first then flip it over and paint the bottom last. This will assure that all visible surfaces have the same texture.
  10. Paint the inside black at back of the ports.
Still, with all that I learned, the job turned out professional looking. All that's left is to wrap cloth on the grill.

My only gripes are:
  • Rockville got their own logo slightly crooked on the dust cap.
  • Rockville goobered the rubber around the outer edge of the driver.
Oh well, not my fault.
Nice job! What did you use to make the grill frame?
 

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I have the subs (I got one on BF for $75, the other came in yesterday), I just need to get the MDF and figure out what I'm doing about a router. I drive a Jeep so I have to borrow a truck to pick it up.
 

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I have the subs (I got one on BF for $75, the other came in yesterday), I just need to get the MDF and figure out what I'm doing about a router. I drive a Jeep so I have to borrow a truck to pick it up.

If you're getting your lumber from Lowes or Home Depot, they'll usually make 1-2 cuts for you for free that'll make it a more manageable size. Figure out your cut sheet and which cut would be closest to the middle of the whole sheet and have them cut it.
 

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I plan to build a VBSS to complement a DIY JL12W7 sub tuned to 20hz and a PB13 Ultra in a 2300 cuft room.

My first choice is the flared port cab design, however height is limited to 28" as the screen frame bottom edge is 29" high. Based on the original cab dimension of 23.5x20x31.5 = 14,805 in3, I came up with a modified height at 23.5x22.5x28 = 14,805 in3 which is exactly the same volume of the original design.

My questions are:
1. Will I just add 2.5" to the port length to keep the end bell the same distance to the inner back wall? So, 19.5" instead of 17".
2. Is the port tuning now altered?
3. Is it critical to keep the port gap to the side wall as per design?

My other option is to use a slot port to achieve a 25" height to match the height and depth of the other DIY sub. Both subs will be placed below the screen while the PB13 goes to the middle side of the room. This is the cab dimension I came up close to the original volume, 26.5x22.5x25= 14,906 in3.

Can somebody help me calculate the port length for a 17/20hz tuned cab with a new outer width of 26.5" and depth of 22.5". Both subs will be powered by an Inuke3000 with a balanced MiniDSP 2x4.

Thanks and be safe everyone.

Weng
 

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I have the subs (I got one on BF for $75, the other came in yesterday), I just need to get the MDF and figure out what I'm doing about a router. I drive a Jeep so I have to borrow a truck to pick it up.

I drive a POS SUV with a half-a$$ version of a roof rack and ive had 700lbs of MDF on my roof....If you have a jeep you're fine.
 

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I plan to build a VBSS to complement a DIY JL12W7 sub tuned to 20hz and a PB13 Ultra in a 2300 cuft room.

My first choice is the flared port cab design, however height is limited to 28" as the screen frame bottom edge is 29" high. Based on the original cab dimension of 23.5x20x31.5 = 14,805 in3, I came up with a modified height at 23.5x22.5x28 = 14,805 in3 which is exactly the same volume of the original design.

My questions are:
1. Will I just add 2.5" to the port length to keep the end bell the same distance to the inner back wall? So, 19.5" instead of 17".
2. Is the port tuning now altered?
3. Is it critical to keep the port gap to the side wall as per design?

My other option is to use a slot port to achieve a 25" height to match the height and depth of the other DIY sub. Both subs will be placed below the screen while the PB13 goes to the middle side of the room. This is the cab dimension I came up close to the original volume, 26.5x22.5x25= 14,906 in3.

Can somebody help me calculate the port length for a 17/20hz tuned cab with a new outer width of 26.5" and depth of 22.5". Both subs will be powered by an Inuke3000 with a balanced MiniDSP 2x4.

Thanks and be safe everyone.

Weng



If you have a read over the thread, this "build" with "TUNE" is designed for the PA460 and maybe a couple of woofers that closely match the PA460. Get your subs specs, pop them in WinISD and model it ported and go from there.. You're missing the point of this build...Ingeniously took a woofer NOT meant for subwoofer duty and made it possible.

I forgot my VBSS tune in my Inuke while testing other woofers and nearly cooked them--not advised...
 

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If you have a read over the thread, this "build" with "TUNE" is designed for the PA460 and maybe a couple of woofers that closely match the PA460. Get your subs specs, pop them in WinISD and model it ported and go from there.. You're missing the point of this build...Ingeniously took a woofer NOT meant for subwoofer duty and made it possible.

I forgot my VBSS tune in my Inuke while testing other woofers and nearly cooked them--not advised...
Sorry, i did not understand your reply.

Will use a PA-460 for this build but using
1. Flared port with 2.5" deeper than design.

OR

2. Slot port with wider and deeper than original design.

Don't have access to WinISD for now, just using my phone. I'm stuck away from home due travel ban.

Thanks
 

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Sorry, i did not understand your reply.

Will use a PA-460 for this build but using
1. Flared port with 2.5" deeper than design.

OR

2. Slot port with wider and deeper than original design.

Don't have access to WinISD for now, just using my phone. I'm stuck away from home due travel ban.

Thanks



My bad, I read it to fast as you want to use a different driver :)
 

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.

I am building this version of the VBSS and making a sofa table, I have a Behringer NX 3000D, if I want to power both PA 460’ s on one channel, will I wire it in, Series or Parallel? Thanks
Just wanted to post an update on my dual vbss sofa table build, hopefully will be finished next week.
 

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I plan to build a VBSS to complement a DIY JL12W7 sub tuned to 20hz and a PB13 Ultra in a 2300 cuft room.

My first choice is the flared port cab design, however height is limited to 28" as the screen frame bottom edge is 29" high. Based on the original cab dimension of 23.5x20x31.5 = 14,805 in3, I came up with a modified height at 23.5x22.5x28 = 14,805 in3 which is exactly the same volume of the original design.

My questions are:
1. Will I just add 2.5" to the port length to keep the end bell the same distance to the inner back wall? So, 19.5" instead of 17".
2. Is the port tuning now altered?
3. Is it critical to keep the port gap to the side wall as per design?

My other option is to use a slot port to achieve a 25" height to match the height and depth of the other DIY sub. Both subs will be placed below the screen while the PB13 goes to the middle side of the room. This is the cab dimension I came up close to the original volume, 26.5x22.5x25= 14,906 in3.

Can somebody help me calculate the port length for a 17/20hz tuned cab with a new outer width of 26.5" and depth of 22.5". Both subs will be powered by an Inuke3000 with a balanced MiniDSP 2x4.

Thanks and be safe everyone.

Weng
I just realized that it is not possible to put in an 18" driver and a 7.25" dia flared end on a 28" high (26.5" internal) cabinet. So, have to scrap this idea.

So, the build will be a slotted port with "external" height= 25" x depth= 26.5" & width= 22.5".

What will be the port length to achieve a 15/20hz tuning as per original plan?

Hope someone can help as I do not have access to Winisd at the moment while away from home.

Thanks 🙂
 

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Well I went to Lowes today and bought my MDF and picked up a router they had for $89. It was an Hitachi fixed router with a plunge base on clearance (was $179). I guess now I need to order my Jasper Jig and I should be good to go.
 

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so many pages of info and im sure this has been answered already but do i need any sort of gasket or anything when installing my speakon port to the box or should i glue it in? also same question for the 4" ports, do they need some sort of gasket for optimal seal?
 

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Well I went to Lowes today and bought my MDF and picked up a router they had for $89. It was an Hitachi fixed router with a plunge base on clearance (was $179). I guess now I need to order my Jasper Jig and I should be good to go.
I made a trammel for my router to cut circles. Work beautifully! Just be careful when the center drops out. I left about .010 and bumped it from the back side with my palm so it didn't tear material from the baffle then cleaned it up around the edges with a razor knife. Turned our very clean.
 

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Well I went to Lowes today and bought my MDF and picked up a router they had for $89. It was an Hitachi fixed router with a plunge base on clearance (was $179). I guess now I need to order my Jasper Jig and I should be good to go.

Just ordered my 4 PA460- build happening this week.
 
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