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I'm at the point where I am wondering why I decided to build 4 of these at once... I can't wait to hear them. But for my first build, I went all in.

Today I finished the bracing and installed the other three baffles. (Two were a PITA). I drilled all the holes for the t-nuts and set them in the MDF.

Need one more trip for bracing (miscalculated) and my ADD kicked in and I decided to make a partial wood wrap and stain it to match my Green Bay Packers themed room. Pics will be up tomorrow.

Had a little issue with two of the front baffles not fitting so I'm going to run a bead of caulk on
the inside seams of the box just for insurance.

Tomorrow I'll be filling the screw holes and sanding the MDF and cutting the wood trim parts. Not looking forward to the dust. I have a good mask for it, though.

Hopefully I finish on Wednesday. Not sure how long the coating will take to dry.

Looking forward to pics!

I've been going back and forth between 2 or 4 - everything ordered for two but I can grab wood tonight for four as four would be, well FOUR, lol.
 

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Progress!!! Oh my... From now on ALWAYS USE CLAMPS. Filling / sanding screw holes sucks. So does routing edges of a floating wrapped box.

A trim router CAN cut the holes for the sub, but it isn't petty, even doing three passes. Get a real router.

Never decide to do a fancy detail for your first build. Just build them, then build another fancy box later and swap your sub into it. Sell first boxes. Lesson learned. I'd be done, happy, and have a future protect to work on one at a time.

Here's a progress pic of my nightmare. This box and another should be done today. Did I mention sanding sucks? Should have bought a flush trim bit (might get one today - I need to exchange some supplies I didn't use)

The MDF is going to be ExoHyde and the wood is going to be color washed in a green gold and white stripe (Packers fan) and satin polyed.

by the way, the plywood from home depot is crap, but I don't have the time nor budget to get another panel to make it perfect...they are now rustic finished 🙂

It's a take on the floating boxes in other builds - one was a modified vbss build and he referenced another member. On my phone taking a break now. I'll give proper credit in my build recap thread when I'm done.
 

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Since I was already full of dust and saw a video of why round corners are better than sharp and also saw it on another build (I really need to stop looking at builds while I'm building mine)

I decided to round my corners. Glad I did. I think it looks way better!
20200708_231103_1594269316974.jpg
 

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4th one was off to the side, drying. We only had 6 clamps so we let the glue sit for 1 to 1.5 hrs before unclamping to error on the side of caution as the 'minimum' was 30 mins....


Now that I see how freaking big these are I think my wife is not going to be cool with all 4 on the floor like normal....

Would stacking two on top of each-other like my image below work?
Two on the left side and two on the right side - ports would be mirrored.

I could then baffle the front and make them look like one large stack but keep them as 4 separate subs. Would anything need to go in between them? I had 1" rubber feet planned for all of them but don't think I would put feet on the side of the sub on top...
 

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Daily progress:
20200710_010740_1594362185429.jpg

Cabinets are built!!! That was hell. 86 lbs each. I lifted them each at least a dozen times.
20200710_004543_1594362232827.jpg

Now for the ExoHyde and stain tomorrow.

When your wife lets you take over her relaxing area in the house to build four subwoofers, you got yourself a keeper!

I'm not in the garage because it's 100+ in Texas... I did the messy work on my back patio.
 

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Would stacking two on top of each-other like my image below work?
Two on the left side and two on the right side - ports would be mirrored.
Yup stacking works just fine. Actually it can be helpful when time-aligning your subs because they act like one when stacked (same distance to viewer).

You don't need to separate them, I had two stacked for a while with no issues, no rattling or anything of that kind.
 

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Would stacking two on top of each-other like my image below work?
Two on the left side and two on the right side - ports would be mirrored.
Yup stacking works just fine. Actually it can be helpful when time-aligning your subs because they act like one when stacked (same distance to viewer).

You don't need to separate them, I had two stacked for a while with no issues, no rattling or anything of that kind.
Awesome, thank you!!
 

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Daily progress:
View attachment 2755780

Cabinets are built!!! That was hell. 86 lbs each. I lifted them each at least a dozen times.
View attachment 2755782

Now for the ExoHyde and stain tomorrow.

When your wife lets you take over her relaxing area in the house to build four subwoofers, you got yourself a keeper!

I'm not in the garage because it's 100+ in Texas... I did the messy work on my back patio.
Those are looking sharp!!!

I need to buy two more 36" clamps so we can clamp the rear of the box on.

The cut from Home Depot (or manufacturer) was wonky on one board and we didn't catch it so we fed that side through the guide....one box is 31.5" on one side and almost 31" on the other, so hopefully we can make it fit and add filler and such.

Sucks but don't really want to buy more wood, this will become a rear panel, lol.
 

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Those are looking sharp!!!

I need to buy two more 36" clamps so we can clamp the rear of the box on.

The cut from Home Depot (or manufacturer) was wonky on one board and we didn't catch it so we fed that side through the guide....one box is 31.5" on one side and almost 31" on the other, so hopefully we can make it fit and add filler and such.

Sucks but don't really want to buy more wood, this will become a rear panel, lol.
Thanks! That sucks on the cut. Filler and if you have any spare pieces of wood, cut a wedge or use some shims too close the gap.

I tried to make a filler with wood glue and mdf dust (so much dust...) and is good for one or two. But the minwax wood filler was far better and faster to work with. Easier to sand also.

I bought an Accu-cut from Kreg because I had to fix a mistake. Then, since I had it, I decided to do the birch panels. I need a project manager 😆!

I had a cabinet maker friend cut my panels, but my cut list didn't account for the blade thickness. He caught it and made sure they were perfect, but I had one back panel that was 1/8 short. Like a dummy, I didn't mark it. I ended up using it so the baffle was too big. Oops. Accu-cut to the rescue.


ExoHyde done. It's easy to work with. It dries how it looks wet. It doesn't smooth out while drying so if you see a roller line or anything, it will be there when it dries.

20200710_134223_1594407929494.jpg
 

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Questions:

I'm getting ready to download the dsp files and hook up the subs hopefully tomorrow.

Where do I go from here?

I have a umik-1 and am installing REW. Is there a step by step beginner guide? I'll look, but if someone can link it, that would be cool.

To confirm: For a four sub setup on an nx3000d, I need to hook two speakers up to each output and use (make) a Y-cable? (I've asked this before, but don't think I got an answer - if I did, sorry 🙂 )
 

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Daily progress:
View attachment 2755780

Cabinets are built!!! That was hell. 86 lbs each. I lifted them each at least a dozen times.
View attachment 2755782


Now for the ExoHyde and stain tomorrow.

When your wife lets you take over her relaxing area in the house to build four subwoofers, you got yourself a keeper!

I'm not in the garage because it's 100+ in Texas... I did the messy work on my back patio.
Those are looking sharp!!!

I need to buy two more 36" clamps so we can clamp the rear of the box on.

The cut from Home Depot (or manufacturer) was wonky on one board and we didn't catch it so we fed that side through the guide....one box is 31.5" on one side and almost 31" on the other, so hopefully we can make it fit and add filler and such.

Sucks but don't really want to buy more wood, this will become a rear panel, lol.
I had an issue with a wonky cut aswell with my top/bottom panel, I glued a scrap price on then flush trimmed with the router, might work for your panel
 

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Questions:

I'm getting ready to download the dsp files and hook up the subs hopefully tomorrow.

Where do I go from here?

I have a umik-1 and am installing REW. Is there a step by step beginner guide? I'll look, but if someone can link it, that would be cool.

To confirm: For a four sub setup on an nx3000d, I need to hook two speakers up to each output and use (make) a Y-cable? (I've asked this before, but don't think I got an answer - if I did, sorry 🙂 )
If you're running 4x PA460 (8 ohm) I'd run them 2x parallel, so yes, a Y-cable. Depending on your connectors on the back of your boxes, you could jumper to the second sub on the channel. Purists may grumble about time alignment but, in reality, the electricity goes down the wire at the speed of light x velocity factor (.66 or .75 or something). Even at half the speed of light (velocity factor .5) you can cover 10 or 30 feet of whatever in a fraction of a nanosecond. Time alignment has much more to do with the speed of sound than the speed of signal in copper. To make everyone happy, yes a y-cable.
 

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To confirm: For a four sub setup on an nx3000d, I need to hook two speakers up to each output and use (make) a Y-cable? (I've asked this before, but don't think I got an answer - if I did, sorry 🙂 )
I find it easiest to put 2 NL4MPRs on each box, both connected to the driver. Then simply connect a cable from the amp to one of the boxes, and another between the 2 boxes.
 

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^ THIS

If you know where the boxes are going, you'll only need two connectors on two of the boxes. Each channel runs to the dual connector box first, then out to the single connector box.
Ugh... That means I have to wait to fire them up... I wonder if a music store would have them...
 

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I'm on the home stretch!!! All four are stuffed and ready for wiring!

20200711_162234_1594502581445.jpg
 

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update - got it up on a different pc... usb install failed on my pc and it won't retry it...



------------------------------
crap...

nx3000d won't connect to pc. it failed to install now windows makes the sound for connecting USB, but nothing happens.

i have set the PEQ and crossover settings from the panel, i can't figure out the DEQ setttings. i opened the 20hz port tune file in a text editor and am stuck.

help please... LOL
 

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OH MY GAWD!!!

Just fired it up! Holy Fudgeballs!!!
(Excuse the mess...)

Main listening position
20200712_002050_1594531516226.jpg

20200712_002009_1594531574822.jpg


Thanks to everyone on this thread for the valuable information! I was scared something wasn't going to work. Everything fired right up!

Going to run the umik and REW tomorrow after I clean up my construction mess... My entire house turned into a work shop (my wife is awesome and somehow has no desire to divorce me)
 

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Discussion Starter #2,599
Make sure you are using the new NX specific amp file, the DEQ settings have been moved to PEQ on those files because some found they didn't work correctly on their amps.
 

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3 of my 4 boxes have backs now, only have 8 clamps so 1 box at a time! First two subs and everything I need to get two should be here this week. The amp might might be next week.....second set of subs are backorderd so they are 3-4 weeks out ;_;

Question, should you run any type of silicone or more glue along the joints inside the box?

I used a crap ton of glue so I am pretty confident they will be sealed but only want to do this once!
 
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