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Is there a tutorial for making adjustments on the DSP to what you see in the graph? or is it along the lines of oh, you have a 3db null at 50hz so you bump up 50hz +3db to compensate?

I've not dived in yet (paranoid that my amp will have issues since the loud pop when I turned it on...but I can't test on anything..) but I should have the sub boxes in my room next week!



You generally can't compensate nulls with DSP. Move the speakers (or the couch) to try to reduce the null. Sometimes, a few inches will do the trick. Typically, another null will show up, so it's always a trade off. Once you have the best FR with the least issues with nulls, pull down peaks to flatten the FR
 

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Is there a tutorial for making adjustments on the DSP to what you see in the graph? or is it along the lines of oh, you have a 3db null at 50hz so you bump up 50hz +3db to compensate?

I've not dived in yet (paranoid that my amp will have issues since the loud pop when I turned it on...but I can't test on anything..) but I should have the sub boxes in my room next week!
Could go either way. For me it was Spectroid finding a big bump at 100hz and pushing it down to get what appears to be a pretty linear response curve. For many it never stops.
 

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Has anyone run these with a crossover of 150hz, 200hz or even 250hz? When measuring my room, setting the crossover there definitely gives better results as I have 4x of them, with two essentially co located with my LCR.

20-250hz might be a large range to handle, but at least in sweeps it measures quite well. Since one "feature" of vbss is that they theoretically could be run over a larger range than some other subs, I might just leave the crossover at 250hz for a while and see what happens...

Any glaring issue with it that I am not seeing (hearing?) :)
 

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I have two boxes up, ready to go and waddled in place (heavy!) And my dumbass ordered an RCA Male to XLR female....so at least I can get the other two done and in place before the correct XLR Male cable arrives.

:/

I vastly underestimated the size of these things even after measuring. They fit like I measured but just actually seeing them in the room and not as outlines on paper is insane.

I'll add more pics when I jump on a PC next.

Before
3037909


After a couple coats - need to get rid of the old TV unit on the far left
3037910



Just got a truck, might need a new truck....lol
3037911
3037912


I am seriously hoping my TV fits back on the mount between the 4 subs....lol

I might have to re-think sub placement and have two on either side and two in the rear of the room........They will fit but my TV might not be able to sit flush against the wall, fingers crossed.
3037913
 

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Hi guys, the first post mentions VBSS design that includes 2 drivers with slot port. Seems like the link that is supposed to show the detail isn't working. Can someone please provide the link that gives the detail of that design?

Thx
I have found in these cases removing the "page=xxx#" after clicking on the "bad" link will bring it right up (different # of posts per page on the new forum software I assume).

round The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread
slot The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread
 

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If you use the DSP settings without changes you can safely power a PA460 off the 6000 without any special wiring as the limiter keeps power at a safe level but you are limited to only two woofers connected in parallel per channel (4 ohm load). Technically this only utilizes 1/4 the amps potential.
I currently use a 6000 with 2 PA460s per channel in parallel for a 4 ohm load per channel. Should I use the settings as posted or double the voltage limiter so that I can utilize more power?

-Tom A

[URL='https://www.avsforum.com/threads/new-pole-barn-construction-20x29x12.3004242/[/URL]
 

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So I have my 8 boxes (minus the front baffle) all glued up with braces,. I am awaiting delivery of my Precision Ports and Drivers. With regard to those ports, I am trying to understand how they are installed. It seems that the smaller, inner flare does not rest on the bottom of the cab, so I am a bit confused as to how it stays in place. Are the ports held in place solely by the 4 anchoring screws on the front baffle or are you guys using some internal anchoring system?
 

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one of my subs seems to be prematurely "burping" when it gets to the yellow lights on the nx3000. only one out of four does it. might i have blown it? not really sure how to test that. frequency tests all work great and it seems to sound good as long as it stays away from that limiter.
 

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Try swapping speakers , if problem moves, speaker/box issue, it it stays, amp issue.

one of my subs seems to be prematurely "burping" when it gets to the yellow lights on the nx3000. only one out of four does it. might i have blown it? not really sure how to test that. frequency tests all work great and it seems to sound good as long as it stays away from that limiter.
 

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Try swapping speakers , if problem moves, speaker/box issue, it it stays, amp issue.
good call. new weekend project.

if problem moves - speaker problem. if problem stays, amp/box problem

if the problem doesn't move - since i have 2 speakers on each output, would it be the box? and if so, what with the box would cause that to happen?
 

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Could be loose screw as mentioned by Augerhandle.

You can swap just swap wire from the amp to rule out the amp for now. No need to remove the driver for the initial test, basically swap the whole speaker/box combo

good call. new weekend project.

if the problem doesn't move - since i have 2 speakers on each output, would it be the box? and if so, what with the box would cause that to happen?
 

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Before!
Paint and mid move on the go. The TV used to be on left wall between the old entertainment stands...those are gone
PXL_20200913_175854434.MP.jpg



After!
My 60" TV is way to small now, lol.
PXL_20200922_042728158.NIGHT.jpg



Subs have kick and my whole couch trembles and shakes and I've only listened to Hotel California live! I need to tweak a few things but what are some good places to start the amp/receiver settings?

I have a single green light on the amp that flashes on/off so I assume I am barely giving these things a sweat - Front "A "dial is 50% and B is 0%.
My receiver has everything set at small, crossover at 80hz and sub setting is +8

I find if I turn the front A dial up they get loud but also boomy as my ceiling and crap shakes so they sound worse but I figure that is my room and not the subs?
PXL_20200922_042728158.NIGHT.jpg PXL_20200913_175854434.MP.jpg
 

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7.1 - 2x V.B.S.S / 3x 1099s / Klipsch Side&Rears
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Mixma, looking good man. :D
I had the same troubles with setup at the beginning also, no worries.
Crossover looks good, set to small is good..but the sub level out of your receiver is running too hot, I think.
Have you run the audessey/receiver auto cal yet?
It's better to let your receiver setup the sub output to around -3 or so. (it'll run out of headroom and possibly clip the output if too hot)
Then, after that is run and set.. I have my nx3000d input dials set to 3 clicks hot, just ch A for you (about 3 o'clock). That gives me about +7-10dB and I like it there.
That's kinda up to your preference though, "house curve" of where you like it best.

I'm sure someone smarter than me can tell you the why/how to of everything. ..but that's where I landed, and it's been good to me.
 

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I have a single green light on the amp that flashes on/off so I assume I am barely giving these things a sweat - Front "A "dial is 50% and B is 0%.
If I remember correctly, you are running these off a Behringer nu or NX?

I start at ~70%, then run RC (Audyssey in my case), shooting for a sub trim level around -4 to -8. Keep in mind that the front knobs are not gain, but attenuation, regulating the input it receives from your AVR. Gain is raised/lowered within the software (or front panel maybe? I don't use the panel so not sure), default is 0.

My receiver has everything set at small, crossover at 80hz and sub setting is +8
Did you set that trim level, or did MCACC?
 

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Hey @mixma, your subs look amazing and nice work on your room! Glad to hear those VBs have a lot of "kick" as that is exactly what I am after. Your sub trim in the receiver is +8?? That sounds kinda high. I am sure the experts here will have you all sorted out in no time at all.

I am not yet at the point of hooking up my 8 VBs, but I like staying a step ahead. I have 2 NU3000DSPs available to power them, for a total of 4 channels. What would you guys recommend: 2 Subs per channel or just run all 8 off a single amp?
 
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