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Isn't the double bass setting something that uses your L&R mains to also produce bass?
This generally is a setting that is frowned upon, if I'm recalling correctly.
I am not sure and I tried to search but the setting says 'if you need more bass from the subwoofer' but I will play with it some more.

**Edit - I found some posts and it does sound like this uses the mains and sub for bass. I will turn off and muddle some more.

Crossover is set to 80hz still

MCACC set my L&R Mains and my center as large.....but I cannot, no matter what I do (Attenuation Channel A 100%) get my receiver to drop the subs to anything lower than 0. The very first time I ran it set -0.5 and attenuation was around 60% so not sure what as the subs are much louder at 100% but my receiver just goes to 0 now.
 

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Could be loose screw as mentioned by Augerhandle.

You can swap just swap wire from the amp to rule out the amp for now. No need to remove the driver for the initial test, basically swap the whole speaker/box combo
the problem moved when I swapped the wires (A <-> B) same outputs. my amp a and b settings are identical. this isn't necessarily box design issue so should i move further discussion to a different section?

and upon further inspection, it happens at full red... not yellow. i was mistaken there.

notable scenes are the intro to Edge of Tomorrow and Godzilla: King of the Monsters at 1:35:08.
 

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Problem lies in the amp....

the problem moved when I swapped the wires (A <-> B) same outputs. my amp a and b settings are identical. this isn't necessarily box design issue so should i move further discussion to a different section?
 

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the problem moved when I swapped the wires (A <-> B) same outputs. my amp a and b settings are identical. this isn't necessarily box design issue so should i move further discussion to a different section?

and upon further inspection, it happens at full red... not yellow. i was mistaken there.

notable scenes are the intro to Edge of Tomorrow and Godzilla: King of the Monsters at 1:35:08.
Double-check both limiter settings.
 

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So my subs go loud (like dust falling from the ceiling loud) but my NX3000d NEVER displays more than one green bar, sometimes one green blinks on or of and sometimes it is solid....would I need to get a voltage/line driver or something to boost my RCA signal?

Would it make a difference?
 

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Double-check both limiter settings.
And the gain/filter/EQ settings too....
i increased the limiter from -.5 to -2.0 and it keeps it from popping while still driving hard. i can really push the edge of tomorrow now so all of the tones are rumbling strong, but no popping. everything was set equal. i do have a weird thing with the PEQ graphs. even though all settings are the same, channel A and B have a different curve at one point. it is the adjustment at filter 3 that is causing the difference. if i turn it off on both they appear to be the same curve.

not show stopping, but just looking for the why...


configuration.png

filter-crossover.png

PEQ channel A.png

PEQ channel B.png
 

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Hm.. those settings for peak limiter, are different from the default values shared on page 1 here.
Did you make changes for any reason?
I'd load defaults, add your PEQ settings back, and try again.
 

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Are PEQ settings for adjusting after you have ran a UM1K mic?

Im thinking I am just going to have to order one...any other places in Canada besides Solen.ca sell them?
 

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Hm.. those settings for peak limiter, are different from the default values shared on page 1 here.
Did you make changes for any reason?
I'd load defaults, add your PEQ settings back, and try again.
not sure how that didn't load correctly. thanks! i fixed that. too late (early) to actually listen to it now LOL
 
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Are PEQ settings for adjusting after you have ran a UM1K mic?

Im thinking I am just going to have to order one...any other places in Canada besides Solen.ca sell them?
yeah - those are after mapping my MLP - i had to do this as there was a huge lift in my room from 50 -90 hz. i needed to dial it back to flatten the curve so i could increase the volume and get more in the 20-40hz range.

when i ordered my mic stand they were missing a part so i only did one position. i just got the part and i will probably check the other positions this afternoon
 

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Hm.. those settings for peak limiter, are different from the default values shared on page 1 here.
Did you make changes for any reason?
I'd load defaults, add your PEQ settings back, and try again.
not sure how that didn't load correctly. thanks! i fixed that. too late (early) to actually listen to it now LOL
i have the hold and releases set as in the base file. the peak limiter at -1.5 still allows clipping/popping at the third tone in the edge of tomorrow. -2.works. when i set that at -2.0 the Vp changes on it's own to 63.7. the popping is only happening on one output of the amp. is that channel possibly driving just a touch higher?

i also had to set the LPF at 125 Hz to eliminate a hum.

another question - is the DEQ supposed to be on?
 

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Here is my version of the slot ported dual PA460 enclosure with a 20hz tune. 18 inch slot port . Two of these should be plenty in a 12x14 room.

3041119
 

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Discussion Starter #2,795
i have the hold and releases set as in the base file. the peak limiter at -1.5 still allows clipping/popping at the third tone in the edge of tomorrow. -2.works. when i set that at -2.0 the Vp changes on it's own to 63.7. the popping is only happening on one output of the amp. is that channel possibly driving just a touch higher?

i also had to set the LPF at 125 Hz to eliminate a hum.

another question - is the DEQ supposed to be on?
Did you load the corrected NX file? Some people had found the inuke settings (DEQ filters specifically) didn't play nice with the NX amplifiers so I moved those filters over to the standard PEQ slots.

If setting the limiter to -2dB eliminates the popping then I would leave it at that (actually adjust both channels to -2.0dB). It's normal that Vp drops with the lower limiter setting as you are decreasing the maximum output voltage/power from the amp with the limiter.

It is possible that the one channel on your amp has just slightly higher voltage sensitivity then the other allowing it to clip with the standard limiter setting. Otherwise the limiter on that channel could be slightly out of calibration or the voltage rail of the amp is running a little lower then normal. In any case dropping the limiter setting until the clipping is eliminated would be the best option. If -2.0dB works then your only loosing 0.5dB of peak output which is practically unnoticeable.
 

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Is there anything I can change to get more from the amp? I cannot get more than a single greenlight

My receiver at like -10 and my coffee table upstairs is vibrating and things on it are moving/bouncing around (Music is never listened this loud) but my NX300D is still a single green light, I cannot get it to go any higher? (receiver bass is set at -4 as it sounded better with music than at 0)

My VBSS20hz setting is running and loaded on the amp but is something up or is it just my amp not sending a strong enough signal?
 

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I'm pretty sure the settings are set low so you don't destroy the driver
That would make sense, lol.

Are people changing the settings to get higher results? If so I am golden, it just sounded like I was the only one without yellow or red bars when I was using them.
 

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Mine never hits more than 1 bar with music.. or anything but movies really.
Some movies have touched red for a flash.. so I think that's normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #2,800
You're not listening loud enough! lol

As long as the sub seems to be working correctly and sounds loud enough for you there is no reason for concern. On the NX3000 the other two lights (yellow?) are at -6dB and -3dB showing you are closing in on max output with the red light showing you are hitting the limiter.

If you connect the amp to your PC and let the software run you can watch the output levels while you play music/movies and see where things are at.
 
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